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Kirkby Luneside


Physicsman
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That mortar work certainly looks good, Jeff and sets off the stone block work a treat. However, if you plant your building in any of those positions it could affect general running somewhat.

Edited by Rowsley17D
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Always amuses me as to why there were rarely any doors on the none-railway side of S&C buildings. Your shell makes my card effort look rather flimsy, Jeff. You could always go the P4 Heckmondwike way and cut "stones" from individually scribed and cut bits of plastikard.

 

attachicon.gifHeckmondwike Stn.jpg

 

I got the picture from the London P4 website and will remove if it infringes copyright.

 

The hand-painted LMS seems rather quaint given what is available today.

Even back then, one could have used Letraset to get a better result.

 

But there is a door on the non-rail side of S&C buildings. It is on the side of the wing so that there is less of a draught through the building. Very sensible given how exposed most S&C locations are.

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Yes, Joseph. I should have thought to put this plan up the first time Jonathan referred to the doors (plan of smaller Midland-type station building, not KS):

 

post-13778-0-46154900-1500543381_thumb.jpg

 

Jeff

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That mortar work certainly looks good, Jeff and sets of the stone block work a treat. However, if you plant your building in any of those positions it could affect general running somewhat.

 

I hadn't realised that.....  :no:  :no:

 

It's been so long since a loco ran on KL2 that I'd forgotten what those metal rails were for..... :jester:  :O

 

I bet some of your sermons are a right laugh!

 

Thanks for your positive comments - always good to hear from you.

 

Jeff

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I've been doing a bit of "tiling" for the last couple of hours. The method is the one used by Jason on his Bacup and The Mill layouts.

 

The tile spacing isn't perfect, but the real thing rarely is - particularly an exposed shed that's been battered by the wind for decades!

 

post-13778-0-60347600-1500577207_thumb.jpg

 

Jeff

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Is it just me or have you overlapped them too much? Take the third row up, there's not much slate showing. I cannot find  a decent photo showing an S&C goods shed sideway on but photos of stations show quite big slates on the roofs.

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Is it just me or have you overlapped them too much? Take the third row up, there's not much slate showing. I cannot find  a decent photo showing an S&C goods shed sideway on but photos of stations show quite big slates on the roofs.

 

You've actually answered your own question, Jonathan.

 

The tiling on the station buildings is different to that on the goods sheds.

 

Here's a (copyrighted) pic of the KS shed. The roof has 35 rows of tiles. I've actually made the tiles here oversize, so there'll only be 25 rows - for my sanity. The photo shows the tiles to be closely spaced, with approx. 1' x 1' tiles, half-overlapped.

 

post-13778-0-46478900-1500581384.jpg

 

Jeff

Edited by Physicsman
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They also say that you shouldn't ever "model a model".....

 

But here's a pic of the goods shed from Ian Macdonald and Huddersfield MRC's "Kirkby Stephen West". The tiling is just about visible if you zoom in a bit. Ian was more meticulous than I've been, so I'll trust his group's roofing interpretation.

 

post-13778-0-96521600-1500582059_thumb.jpg

 

Please note that I'm not trying to "score points". You've made me check-up on what I'm doing - and how many times do I ask people to do that?

 

Btw, an RMweb "acquaintance" (more at a later date) has used a silhouette cutter to produce some window detail for the shed. I mention this because the windows aren't those at Kirkby Stephen.....

 

Jeff

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Just to be pedantic, shouldn't we be talking slates not tiles!

 

Yep, you're probably correct, John.

 

The term "roof tiles" is fairly common these days, probably not so in the 50s/60s. And the "tiling" on these sheds was definitely slate.

 

So - I'll endeavour to press on with the roof slates....

 

.... I hope you won't slate me if I make that mistake again! :no:  :no:

 

Jeff

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Hi Jeff, I didn't realise that different size slates were used on stations and goods shed. I have to take more note on my next journey on the S&C.

Jonathan, I'm glad you raised the issue of slate overlap. I don't think there's any one way of putting the slates on.

 

However....

 

As a result of your post, you've saved me some effort...

 

I was working on a 3mm overlap on a 6mm slate (ie. Half overlap). But, having played around a bit, I can say that a 2mm (or even 1mm - so 5mm of slate is exposed) overlap looks just as good and reduces the number of rows of slates I need.

 

I've also decided to do the roof base with a thinner ply, so I'll re-slate using a different arrangement. I should have something to show tomorrow (then it's back to dad's for his birthday).

 

Jeff

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Some cracking progress on the goods shed Jeff like you I have to admit that when creating a building ply is the way to go .....good and strong  :sungum:

Agree about the ply, Martin. I love playing with wood and will find any excuse to use it!

 

I've a surprise or two planned, building-wise, though it may be a month or so before I can reveal all!

 

Being new to this building building (if you take my meaning) malarkey, it's great fun.

 

Good luck with your Wigan preparation.

 

Jeff

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Glad to be of help, Jeff. One thing you rarely see modelled is the first row of slates is a doubled row of overlapped slates.

Do you have a photo of such a slate arrangement?

 

Jeff

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As a general rule, a 6mm long slate would have 2.5mm showing (slate was 6mm  x 3mm).

 

                           an 8mm long slate would have 3.5mm showing (slate was 8mm  x 4mm).

 

assuming you are following full size practice. The above figures assume 4mm = 1 foot

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As a general rule, a 6mm long slate would have 2.5mm showing (slate was 6mm x 3mm).

 

an 8mm long slate would have 3.5mm showing (slate was 8mm x 4mm).

 

assuming you are following full size practice. The above figures assume 4mm = 1 foot

Very interesting.

 

So my slating on the previous page - with a 3mm overlap and 3mm showing - was about right.

 

Drat - that puts the number of rows of slates back up to 25. Oh well, c'est la vie.

 

Jeff

 

OR have I misinterpreted...?

 

The slates I'm using are 6mm x 6mm - so how much do I show?

Edited by Physicsman
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Here you go, Jeff. Not exactly on top of each other but the second row considerably overlaps the first row otherwise the rain would get in between the slates.

 

post-16241-0-82543200-1500659676_thumb.jpg

 

This is a close up of a barn next door whose roof is in pretty poor condition under the present tenant.

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Jeff

 

Think about what would happen when it rains - the slate needs to overlap more than one row:

 

post-8688-0-06361300-1500681452_thumb.jpg

 

If it only overlapped one row - my outline on the left - the rain would flow in at the top. So a row and a bit (half?) and the roof is then watertight.

 

So in real life, the slate would be rectangular, and attached "portrait" orientation, not "landscape":

 

post-8688-0-86786600-1500681742_thumb.jpg

 

Of course in the model world, you just need to make it look right, not work!

 

Cheers

 

Scott

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Very interesting.

 

So my slating on the previous page - with a 3mm overlap and 3mm showing - was about right.

 

Drat - that puts the number of rows of slates back up to 25. Oh well, c'est la vie.

 

Jeff

 

OR have I misinterpreted...?

 

The slates I'm using are 6mm x 6mm - so how much do I show?

Ah! Looking at your photo in post 4389, your slates appear to be rectangular but with a line at the mid point giving your 6 x 6. This would make the slates 12 x 6 which is rather large for the 'full size' world, 8 x 4 or smaller would be more usual. A 12 x 6 slate would have 5.5 showing. The rule for calculating the gauge of slating  is (length-lap)/2 and the lap is generally 3" (1mm at your scale). If you look at the photo in post 4404 you will see that the exposed area of slate is just under square, so 4 x 3.5 or, in your case, 6 x 5.5.

 

I hope this makes sense and isn't too much like bad news!

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Thanks to John, Jonathan and Scott.

 

My slates are 6mm x 6mm and I've overlapped them by about 1mm.

 

I had a look at a number of slate roofing websites and noted the key factors: angle of roof, wind direction, annual precipitation amounts etc, and how they affected the lap. In the end I've decided on a compromise that looks good. It may not be technically correct, but it'll look the part and with so many variables involved, it won't be far wrong. I've gone for square tiles for simplicity. The data in the websites shows them to be mostly rectangular, but - hey-ho!

 

Anyway, I'll post some pics when I get chance. I'm heading to Cumbria shortly and I'll take some stuff with me to let me get some work done.

 

Jeff

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Thanks to John, Jonathan and Scott.

 

My slates are 6mm x 6mm and I've overlapped them by about 1mm.

 

I had a look at a number of slate roofing websites and noted the key factors: angle of roof, wind direction, annual precipitation amounts etc, and how they affected the lap. In the end I've decided on a compromise that looks good. It may not be technically correct, but it'll look the part and with so many variables involved, it won't be far wrong. I've gone for square tiles for simplicity. The data in the websites shows them to be mostly rectangular, but - hey-ho!

 

Anyway, I'll post some pics when I get chance. I'm heading to Cumbria shortly and I'll take some stuff with me to let me get some work done.

 

Jeff

At last, good man.

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