Kirkby Luneside

[MarshLane]

Hi Jeff,

 

When I did the loading dock for Bakewell's goods shed, I gave it a planked surface, not sure whether that would be correct for KS?

 

The detail is exaggerated, but once in situ it doesn't look that bad:

 

goods-shed-int017.jpg

 

lights-goods-006.jpg

 

lighting-effects-011.jpg

 

Al

 

 

We really do need a 'WOW' button for this thread!  Very nice Al - more inspiration modelling  You guys are giving me too much to think about, and I need to start actually doing some modelling again....

 

Rich

[Physicsman]

I'm not quite in Bodgit's league when it comes to speed of work, but the couple of hours since I put the last batch of pics on here have been very productive.

 

I've weathered the stonework a bit more and I'm about to fix the office roof in place.

 

I'll put another set of pics on here later this evening - I'd guess around 8pm by the time stuff has dried.

 

Jeff

Edited July 25, 2017 by Physicsman

[Ramrig]

Nice workmanship there Jeff as always. Looking forward to seeing more pics later. Did you receive the email with the airbrush link?

 

Steve

[Physicsman]

Nice workmanship there Jeff as always. Looking forward to seeing more pics later. Did you receive the email with the airbrush link?

 

Steve

 

Yes Steve, email received - thanks. I now need to do something about it. I should take the same attitude as I took to buying a Noch Grassmaster static grass applicator this time last year - just get one and have a play with it!

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

I must be working fast - I'm 2 hours ahead of schedule!

 

And if you look in the background - in the cattle dock - of the 5th pic below, you'll see a class 25 loco. One of my old Bachmann models, fitted with Ultrascale wheels (and it got there under its own power). Careful Jeff, you're a builder, not a player - better get that loco away quick!

 

Office roof tiled, primed and fitted. Loading platform top has had several layers of grot and it's Slaters stone has also had base coats of grey and black.

 

Anyway, here's the pics....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow it'll be more paint on the roof, ridge tiles, lead flashings and start on a chimney. And I received a present from Andy York in the post today (to be revealed later).

 

Jeff

 

EDIT: I've just been looking at the pics I posted. Here's another.

 

 

BUT, magnifying the images really highlights areas that still need sorting. The office, in particular, needs a bit more mortar work. Tricky to see where the DAS "goo" is going when it's first applied, as the bricks are unpainted. Having received at least half-a-dozen washes it's obvious where a bit more work can be done.

 

Add to tomorrow's tasks.

Edited July 25, 2017 by Physicsman

[Physicsman]

Well if we're OK with going off-topic into things at night, on Sunday night I was woken up by meowing outside my bedroom door at 3 am - from my cat who had been missing for a week. No idea where she'd been, she was all skin and bones, but alive and returned.

 

Sorry Simon, I missed your post until now.

 

As a cat lover myself I know exactly how you feel. I've had cats go missing for a couple of days - probably locked in a shed or garage. Hope he/she is ok. Post a picture of your feline on here!

 

Jeff

[Reorte]

Thanks. It was a pretty unpleasant week last week, and I could hardly believe it when I heard her. Here she is:

[Physicsman]

She's a beautiful cat, prowling among your hostas. She's no doubt been well fed and you've been the object of her affection, with much purring, since she returned.

 

In railway matters, I've just done the additional pointing that I mentioned in a previous post. I've now refined the method. I wish I'd known how to do this 2 weeks ago, as the present system fills the gaps between bricks leaving minimal mess, and is very quick. Oh well, you learn as you go along....

 

About to cut and fit some ridge tiles, then it's time to make some doors for the unloading side of the structure.

 

May get some pics on here later. Got to keep Chip happy!!

 

Jeff

[Mulgabill]

Well come on Jeff, spill the beans. What is the trick to 4mm pointing?

 

You've got me making dressed stone blocks from DAS, and looking for suitable inspiration for a building

to try it on, in lieu of my "normal" scribed DAS. I've even got the base set on a scenery block.

 

You're not going to leave me to work out how to do the pointing, are you?

 

Thanks in anticipation

 

TONY

 

ps, some hints as to how you get your colouring so realistic would also be helpful, mine always seems to end

up darker than I'd like.

[Physicsman]

Tony, here's a summary of my "experiences" with DAS bricks:

 

1) As you'll have seen, my initial brickwork was mortar-free. I reckoned I could fill the gaps with a series of dilute white acrylic washes, as per plastikard.

    WRONG - the clay soaked up the acrylic and the gaps remained as.....gaps.

 

2) Next attempt - using a scribing tool/needle/compass end to literally "spoon" bits of DAS into the gaps.

    WRONG - took nearly 2 hours to cover an area of about 20cm², by which time I was contemplating chucking the shed out of the window.

 

3) Next attempt - break off very small bits of DAS into a mug, add a small amount of PVA, stir and squash the bits to make a slurry and take bits of slurry on fingers and smear into gaps...

    HALF-WRONG - worked to a point, but with just PVA the DAS smeared everywhere - gaps AND onto bricks. It also made my hands very sticky so everything go covered in the goo.

 

4) Solution..... Eureka! Small bits of DAS into a mug, add plenty of WATER and just a tiny bit of PVA. Mush around with a spoon, scoop bits out with the soon and use fingers to apply to

    gaps. WORKS A TREAT! Over 95% of DAS into gaps and, being water based the DAS on the stones is easily wiped away! YIPPEE!!!!!!!!

 

Colour of stones. It's taken a few days to get it to look the way I want it, but I basically apply LOTS (maybe 10 or more) separate washes of dilute acrylic. I use Woodland Scenics "Stone Grey" and a small touch of black, diluting at least 10 to 1 with water. Then use a 5mm brush to wash over the stone, allow to dry and repeat. Tedious but works. If the stone gets too dark, add some white acrylic to the wash (small amount). It then tends to over-lighten, but you can make a new grey mix and start again. It's important to allow each wash to dry - otherwise the next one just washes away the previous one!

 

The key is PATIENCE. I've turned the air blue over the last 2 weeks, but I always remember that it's easy to go back and start again.

 

I hope this is useful. I'm an experimental Physicist by training and used to "playing around" to get it to work. When you're faced with experiments that can last over a year from design to results it breeds patience.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

The goods shed had internal sliding doors, as you can see in the image:

 

 

The doors opened in the middle and slid to left and right, allowing full access to the loading platform. I'll build complete doors to start with and - possibly - slit them down the middle later. The doors are only for external appearances, so no sliding mechanisms - as far as I'm concerned,  THAT is totally OTT!

 

Here's the first, central door. It needs a small "step" fitting beneath it. It's a 40thou pattern cut and fitted to a 60thou base. The "inserts" will be painted later.

 

 

 

 

Jeff

Edited July 26, 2017 by Physicsman

[Reorte]

Colour of stones. It's taken a few days to get it to look the way I want it, but I basically apply LOTS (maybe 10 or more) separate washes of dilute acrylic. I use Woodland Scenics "Stone Grey" and a small touch of black, diluting at least 10 to 1 with water. Then use a 5mm brush to wash over the stone, allow to dry and repeat. Tedious but works. If the stone gets too dark, add some white acrylic to the wash (small amount). It then tends to over-lighten, but you can make a new grey mix and start again. It's important to allow each wash to dry - otherwise the next one just washes away the previous one!

Would enamel work (mostly because I've got a load of enamels), albeit slower and smellier?

[Alister_G]

Would enamel work (mostly because I've got a load of enamels), albeit slower and smellier?

 

I'd be interested in hearing Jeff's reply, but my thoughts are that diluting enamels is not as easy as adding water to acrylics - I think you would have to use thinners, and therefore run the risk of damaging or removing the preceding coats.

 

Al.

[Physicsman]

I'd be interested in hearing Jeff's reply, but my thoughts are that diluting enamels is not as easy as adding water to acrylics - I think you would have to use thinners, and therefore run the risk of damaging or removing the preceding coats.

 

Al.

 

You probably won't find my reply of any interest, Al. I haven't used enamels since the days of building Airfix/Revell kits and wargame soldiers - MANY years ago. So I've no experience of them in this context.

 

For some reason I started using acrylics and always do so. It may be the ease of dilution with water you alluded to that got me started with them.

 

Jeff

[Alister_G]

You probably won't find my reply of any interest, Al. I haven't used enamels since the days of building Airfix/Revell kits and wargame soldiers - MANY years ago. So I've no experience of them in this context.

 

For some reason I started using acrylics and always do so. It may be the ease of dilution with water you alluded to that got me started with them.

 

Jeff

 

I've always used acrylics since I started modelling, I prefer the speed at which they dry, the ease of diluting them to make washes, and the fact that matt acrylics really are a nice dull proper matt finish, unlike matt enamels, which are more of a satin finish. For the muted colour palette and materials I use them for, the matt finish is most important to me.

 

Cheers

 

Al.

[Jason T]

I am the opposite as I much prefer enamels, the main reason being that they take ages to dry and as such, you can work them for a fair time, essential for weathering where it's not what you put on but what you take off. Mixed properly, you always get a Matt finish.

[Sasquatch]

Thanks to those numpties at the royal mail many modelers on here have been forced to find alternatives to enamels. Once you get used to them Acrylic paints have many advantages not least the price tag. My stash of paints does however include enamels (humbrol mostly, when I can find them). Some tins are still good after 25 years something you wont find with acrylic.

 

It depends on the job in hand, for instance I wouldn't paint kit built stock with acrylic nor waste money on enamels when painting a viaduct.

 

In my experience if a model has been painted with enamel and weathered with water based acrylic the weathering can be removed. Vice versa however the base coat has to be removed with a soak in water and a repaint will be necessary providing the enamel weathering isn't too thick.

 

 

Cracking job on the goods shed Jeff. Will you be giving it the mossy treatment to bring it alive?

 

Regards Shaun.

[Physicsman]

Hi Shaun.

 

Agree with you about the paints. I suppose it's just what you get used to and use most frequently.

 

As for the shed. No plans for moss as the Kirkby Stephen prototype is essentially an isolated stone structure away from most sources of moss/algae/greenery. So it will remain a "grey monolith"!!

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Ok, here's the latest batch of pics.

 

The ridge tiles need another coat (at least) of paint and the shed roof on a couple of the pics is shiny as it had just received another wash of paint.

 

The 25 is pulling a rake of Jason's hoppers. This is the first EM train on KL2 that is using my preferred 3-link system. It was fun coupling the wagons in the fiddle yard - I need to put some additional lighting in there!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jeff

 

[Alister_G]

I love that second to last shot looking down the train with the distant hills of the backscene in the background, it gives a real sense of depth, great!

 

Al.

[P.C.M]

Oooh a train Rattus rattus I do like a class 25. Goods shed looks great by the way.

 

Cheers Peter.

[Andrew P]

Wagons are looking good Jeff.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=head+torch+argos&rlz=1C1CHBD_en-GBGB734GB734&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwit7fupy6nVAhVBKcAKHTNMD-gQsxgIKQ&biw=1366&bih=638#spd=8581863305385776597

[Physicsman]

Thanks guys.

 

I didn't get into the Bunker until 1pm today, but I've given the ridge tiles another coating of grot.

 

I've also spent around 75 minutes fitting the first 4 windows. Andy York very kindly ran me a batch of windows based on Hawes, but typically Midland, using his silhouette cutter. I've attached some of them to clear acetate, trimmed to size and fitted them - with a little microstrip for framing.

 

Here's a couple of pics. The one with the full 4 windows was taken in the natural lighting of my kitchen (rather than the florries in the Bunker) and I think the light enhances the appearance of the stone.

 

 

 

Jeff

Edited July 27, 2017 by Physicsman

[Physicsman]

Wagons are looking good Jeff.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=head+torch+argos&rlz=1C1CHBD_en-GBGB734GB734&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwit7fupy6nVAhVBKcAKHTNMD-gQsxgIKQ&biw=1366&bih=638#spd=8581863305385776597

 

Yep, I think that's the kind of thing I need - even after I've fitted some proper lighting over the fiddle yard. 

 

The wagons are Jason's, btw. But look good - reminds me of a 9F with over 40 in tow!

 

Jeff

[gismorail]

Stunning work Jeff ..........do I detect 'trains' running or is that class 25 and hoppers just been placed there 'by hand'  for effect......you know what happens when trains start to run ...everything else STOPS !!!!!!!!