Jump to content
 

Mid-Cornwall Lines - 1950s Western Region in 00


St Enodoc
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium

I have used Bachmann’s 1950’s train crew... code 36-407.  You get two seated drivers in that set, though the blue needs to be a darker shade.  

 

More recently, I have started using Modelu figures, they do seated diesel drivers.  OO scale ones are £3 each, really nicely detailed and much more lifelike than the Bachmann ones, but they do need painting.  Their steam loco crews are also excellent, many different figures available.

  • Agree 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
1 hour ago, Chamby said:

I have used Bachmann’s 1950’s train crew... code 36-407.  You get two seated drivers in that set, though the blue needs to be a darker shade.  

 

More recently, I have started using Modelu figures, they do seated diesel drivers.  OO scale ones are £3 each, really nicely detailed and much more lifelike than the Bachmann ones, but they do need painting.  Their steam loco crews are also excellent, many different figures available.

Thanks Phil. I'd forgotten about the Bachmann set. With two per pack that is more economical than two Modelscene and the finish is probably better too.

 

I should add that I would prefer pre-painted figures - earlier post edited to this effect.

Edited by St Enodoc
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I have amputated the legs from the fellow from the Merit/Modelscene Station Staff

 

Well done Doctor Enodoc ! :D

  • Thanks 1
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
12 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I'm looking ahead to dismantling D601 so that I can fit the decoder. At the same time I plan to fit a crew so that I only have to remove the body once. Up to now, for 1950s diesel crew I have amputated the legs from the fellow from the Merit/Modelscene Station Staff pack who is standing with his right hand pointing forward - the one second from left in this image from Hattons (other retailers are available):

 

https://hattonsimages.blob.core.windows.net/products/5059_1334_Qty1_1.jpg

 

I'm now down to my last one and of course I need two for the Warship, so before I buy another pack I thought I'd ask the brains trust what figures they suggest (pre-painted preferred).

 

Over to you folks...

 

 

 

 

That chap is certainly multi-skilled! Not only can he be seen at the Station or behind the controls of a diesel loco, he can also turn his hand to a spot of signalling (and he gets to keep his legs :D ), here he is booking on in the train register in Stowbury Signal Box:

 

 

Where will he turn up next ? :dontknow:

  • Like 1
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I laid the track to connect the Down end of Penzance loops 2, 3 and 4 to the rest of the layout today. It was a simple enough job, although it took longer than usual as I was stretching across the Up end of the Paddington loops to reach the parts where the track would go.

 

20190414001PZDowntrackworkinprogress.JPG.c06a21fcbbeed27f5f9d733c3dead4d2.JPG

I also laid a yard of track for each of loops 5, 6 and 7 so that when I build 503 points I will only need to lay the short infill sections. You can see those three yards peeking into shot on the left.

 

I now need to do the same job at Penzance Up end. This will be easier as the loops are nearer to the front of the boards. Once that's done, I will have to get on with building more points so that I can finish the Penzance loops, fit the motors and wire it all up. After that, rinse and repeat at Paddington (although in that case I'll have to build all 10 points).

 

Regarding the crew for D601, I've ordered some Bachmann loco crew - enough for D601, D6306, which I noticed today didn't have any, and the GRCW single power car ready for when I commission that. It's a pity that Bachmann don't sell the crew from their D800 Warships as spares.

Edited by St Enodoc
images restored
  • Like 5
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, St Enodoc said:

It's a pity that Bachmann don't sell the crew from their D800 Warships as spares.

 

 

Have you asked? They might have some spares or start to sell them as a set.

  • Agree 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
32 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

 

 

Have you asked? They might have some spares or start to sell them as a set.

Thanks for the tip Stu. I haven't asked Bachmann directly - that might be worth a try.

 

I've looked in all the usual places - eBay, major retailers, Peter's Spares, etc. - with no joy.

 

Edit: I've asked the question via the Bachmann website. I'll keep you posted.

Edited by St Enodoc
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

How about making your own little people?

clivepeps13.jpg.0a3c0454918c8aee92caa735a60da18e.jpg

 

Mark out on a sheet of 10-15 thou plastic card the height, shoulder, hips etc using a scale figure.

clivepeps2.jpg.3a5fc49befcd88c02d5cca50d12a36ed.jpg

 

Mix some Milliput

clivepeps3.jpg.df4f515d94579631ce8047bf349300e5.jpg

 

Start to shape the Millput with your craft knife.

clivepeps4.jpg.5051f501e8c6437252ed1ada97f71373.jpg

 

clivepeps5.jpg.0d7e0d141f8ca5ffdc412f144f8e4015.jpg

 

Add the face, using something pointy.

clivepeps6.jpg.500d2aa5a07762d678114cc4b99973eb.jpg

clivepeps7.jpg.a799fb4e5a7c48684725f3a138902ba7.jpg

 

Put some clothes on,

clivepeps8.jpg.17b03bad29af76460c3d28b0ed27a8c8.jpg

 

Add other bits and bobs

clivepeps9.jpg.c865b4435fd33e57978af5bc737821b9.jpg

 

Allow to set.

 

Second stage is making the back.

Peel off the plastic card

clivepeps10.jpg.4988af0a6f925ed89d87b86444047733.jpg

 

Turn over

clivepeps11.jpg.8e722e3255ab7ebce6e0226e94c856a0.jpg

 

And build up the back.

 

clivepeps12.jpg.527382b62bf8352bdcd34d6e71de786d.jpg

 

You can even make blokes

 

clivepeps14.jpg.227657192b24297a8547f7ca6c9477b8.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

clivepeps12.jpg

Edited by Clive Mortimore
  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 10
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
1 minute ago, Clive Mortimore said:

How about making your own little people?

clivepeps13.jpg.0a3c0454918c8aee92caa735a60da18e.jpg

 

Mark out on a sheet of 10-15 thou plastic card the height, shoulder, hips etc using a scale figure.

clivepeps2.jpg.3a5fc49befcd88c02d5cca50d12a36ed.jpg

 

Mix some Milliput

clivepeps3.jpg.df4f515d94579631ce8047bf349300e5.jpg

 

Start to shape the Millput with your craft knife.

clivepeps4.jpg.5051f501e8c6437252ed1ada97f71373.jpg

 

clivepeps5.jpg.0d7e0d141f8ca5ffdc412f144f8e4015.jpg

 

Add the face, using something pointy.

clivepeps6.jpg.500d2aa5a07762d678114cc4b99973eb.jpg

clivepeps7.jpg.a799fb4e5a7c48684725f3a138902ba7.jpg

 

Put some clothes on,

clivepeps8.jpg.17b03bad29af76460c3d28b0ed27a8c8.jpg

 

Add other bits and bobs

clivepeps8.jpg.17b03bad29af76460c3d28b0ed27a8c8.jpg

 

Allow to set.

 

Second stage is making the back.

Peel off the plastic card

clivepeps10.jpg.4988af0a6f925ed89d87b86444047733.jpg

 

Turn over

clivepeps11.jpg.8e722e3255ab7ebce6e0226e94c856a0.jpg

 

And build up the back.

 

clivepeps12.jpg.527382b62bf8352bdcd34d6e71de786d.jpg

 

You can even make blokes

 

clivepeps14.jpg.227657192b24297a8547f7ca6c9477b8.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

clivepeps9.jpg

clivepeps12.jpg

Thanks Clive. To be honest, making people is not high on my list of things to do (in fact it isn't on the list at all). I much prefer ready-made figures and very much prefer them to be pre-painted too.

 

For steam loco crew, I'm very impressed with the P & D Marsh pre-painted castings. I've got quite a few of those although they are all still in a box and not on the footplate. The diesel crew are harder to find.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

“I don’t make people; I won’t make people; making people is wrong!”  With apologies to Flanders & Swann, I’m just in that sort of mood this afternoon. 

Paul.

  • Like 1
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
41 minutes ago, Martin S-C said:

"Who mentioned Japanese females?!"

(in Father Jack voice)

Hi Martin

 

Our mate Sainty was referring to my like of a Japanese  female rock band called Band Maid who I frequently share their videos on my layout thread. Guitarist Kanami Tōno is exceptionally good.

  • Thanks 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 14/04/2019 at 20:12, St Enodoc said:

Thanks for the tip Stu. I haven't asked Bachmann directly - that might be worth a try.

 

I've looked in all the usual places - eBay, major retailers, Peter's Spares, etc. - with no joy.

 

Edit: I've asked the question via the Bachmann website. I'll keep you posted.

I have received a very prompt reply from Karen RIchardson at Bachmann - thank you:

 

"Good afternoon [St Enodoc] (she actually used my real name, not my RMweb name, funnily enough),

 

Thank you for contacting Bachmann Europe regarding the crew in the Warship locos.

 

These were never released as separate items, however I have forwarded your enquiry over to our Service Team to see if they may have had any come in as reclaimed.

 

Please feel free to contact us again should you have further queries.

 

Kind regards,

 

Karen."

 

If there is any further news I'll let you all know.

  • Like 2
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
14 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I have received a very prompt reply from Karen RIchardson at Bachmann - thank you:

 

"Good afternoon [St Enodoc] (she actually used my real name, not my RMweb name, funnily enough),

 

Thank you for contacting Bachmann Europe regarding the crew in the Warship locos.

 

These were never released as separate items, however I have forwarded your enquiry over to our Service Team to see if they may have had any come in as reclaimed.

 

Please feel free to contact us again should you have further queries.

 

Kind regards,

 

Karen."

 

If there is any further news I'll let you all know.

A further email from Jennifer and Georgina at Bachmann:

 

"Dear Mr Nxxxxxx,

 

Thank you for your recent e-mail, Unfortunately we do not get the loco crew as a spare part and we do not have any reclaimed locos that we can take any out of at this time.

 

Kind Regards

Georgina Moore"

 

Ah well, it was worth a try and I'm very impressed that the team at Bachmann took the trouble to respond a) so swiftly and b) so helpfully. Thank you ladies.

  • Like 3
  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I stole a couple of hours this afternoon and laid the connecting tracks at the Up end of Penzance loops 2 to 4. This went far more quickly than at the Down end as there was less stretching and reaching across involved.

 

20190419001PZUptrackworkinprogress.JPG.2e46e996c46dabe29770efb127da5474.JPG

Here's the outcome, almost an exact mirror image of the other end.

 

Last weekend I mentioned the need to anchor the rails in a couple of places. I did this using some offcuts of rail laid on its side.

 

20190419002PZtrackanchor.JPG.43eb80a528536a860cb3f1c48f9e864e.JPG

The rail bridges the gap between the two points on the non-frog side only, so that there is no short circuit when the point on the left changes polarity. This seems to be firm enough now but if it proves not to be I'll replace the rail with a longer piece that bridges the tiebar and extends to the next fixed timber. In this picture you can also see a "floating" sleeper. I use a lot of these, with the rail fixings cut away, to support rail joints, especially where (as here) I've used insulating fishplates as these are quite weak mechanically.

 

No more tracklaying now until I've built some more points. I'll start with the two to complete Penzance then gradually work my way through those for Paddington, laying them as I go.

Edited by St Enodoc
images restored
  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
8 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I stole a couple of hours this afternoon and laid the connecting tracks at the Up end of Penzance loops 2 to 4. This went far more quickly than at the Down end as there was less stretching and reaching across involved.

 

938555098_20190419001PZUptrackworkinprogress.JPG.ec7d29d5bfc0766d4b4603e58ea1b996.JPG

Here's the outcome, almost an exact mirror image of the other end.

 

Last weekend I mentioned the need to anchor the rails in a couple of places. I did this using some offcuts of rail laid on its side.

 

1963575360_20190419002PZtrackanchor.JPG.b14a1842ea4242fa6d0ff55a46697ad7.JPG

The rail bridges the gap between the two points on the non-frog side only, so that there is no short circuit when the point on the left changes polarity. This seems to be firm enough now but if it proves not to be I'll replace the rail with a longer piece that bridges the tiebar and extends to the next fixed timber. In this picture you can also see a "floating" sleeper. I use a lot of these, with the rail fixings cut away, to support rail joints, especially where (as here) I've used insulating fishplates as these are quite weak mechanically.

 

No more tracklaying now until I've built some more points. I'll start with the two to complete Penzance then gradually work my way through those for Paddington, laying them as I go.

I've been trying to work out how to make the IRJs more 'rigid' when in place' and not (hopefully) needing to be replaced anytime soon. I have had some success with Gorilla Glue, but I don't know why I'm bothering really as the layout is never going to be moved around like an exhibitionist's effort. Like the little loop on the point throwbar; for the motor drive-pin?

Phil

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On ‎14‎/‎04‎/‎2019 at 11:40, Clive Mortimore said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Put some clothes on,

clivepeps8.jpg.17b03bad29af76460c3d28b0ed27a8c8.jpg

 

Add other bits and bobs

clivepeps9.jpg.c865b4435fd33e57978af5bc737821b9.jpg

 

Allow to set.

 

Second stage is making the back.

Peel off the plastic card

clivepeps10.jpg.4988af0a6f925ed89d87b86444047733.jpg

 

 

If you made them out of gingerbread mix you could eat them in an emergency or when you get locked in your train room for being a naughty boy...….

Edited by Mallard60022
  • Agree 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Funny 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 20/04/2019 at 01:01, Mallard60022 said:

I've been trying to work out how to make the IRJs more 'rigid' when in place' and not (hopefully) needing to be replaced anytime soon. I have had some success with Gorilla Glue, but I don't know why I'm bothering really as the layout is never going to be moved around like an exhibitionist's effort. Like the little loop on the point throwbar; for the motor drive-pin?

Phil

Yes, Phil, that's a legacy of when they were driven by SEEP motors. Just using an ordinary hole in the tiebar didn't give enough throw to activate the built-in switch for frog polarity so I used the end of a paper clip to increase it. Now they're going to be driven by Cobalts, so throw is no longer an issue but in any case it's better than drilling through a piece of copperclad, which weakens it to the extent that failure is inevitable. 

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 19/04/2019 at 06:35, St Enodoc said:

I stole a couple of hours this afternoon and laid the connecting tracks at the Up end of Penzance loops 2 to 4. This went far more quickly than at the Down end as there was less stretching and reaching across involved.

 

938555098_20190419001PZUptrackworkinprogress.JPG.ec7d29d5bfc0766d4b4603e58ea1b996.JPG

Here's the outcome, almost an exact mirror image of the other end.

 

Last weekend I mentioned the need to anchor the rails in a couple of places. I did this using some offcuts of rail laid on its side.

 

1963575360_20190419002PZtrackanchor.JPG.b14a1842ea4242fa6d0ff55a46697ad7.JPG

The rail bridges the gap between the two points on the non-frog side only, so that there is no short circuit when the point on the left changes polarity. This seems to be firm enough now but if it proves not to be I'll replace the rail with a longer piece that bridges the tiebar and extends to the next fixed timber. In this picture you can also see a "floating" sleeper. I use a lot of these, with the rail fixings cut away, to support rail joints, especially where (as here) I've used insulating fishplates as these are quite weak mechanically.

 

No more tracklaying now until I've built some more points. I'll start with the two to complete Penzance then gradually work my way through those for Paddington, laying them as I go.

 

Is there a reason why you don’t use normal metal rail joiners on the outside (non-frog) rail joints?  They provide rigidity, electrical continuity and alignment in this situation....

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 23/04/2019 at 17:59, Chamby said:

 

Is there a reason why you don’t use normal metal rail joiners on the outside (non-frog) rail joints?  They provide rigidity, electrical continuity and alignment in this situation....

Yes Phil - the reason is because I didn't think about it in time!

 

Out of habit I isolate all four rails at the frog end of every point, just so that I don't accidentally connect the wrong rails and end up with a dead short. The points in question here, having been used close to baseboard joints on the previous layout, didn't have long enough "tails" to use the insulated joiners so I just laid them without. After the glue had set, I found that there was still a bit too much lateral flexibility at the toe end so I used the extra bits of rail to anchor the timbers.

 

As I've mentioned, the final two points for Penzance have yet to be built so these will have long enough tails at both ends to fit insulated joiners all round in my usual way.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...