RMweb Premium Barry O Posted February 4, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2021 9 hours ago, Denbridge said: Looking at your trackplan, do you really need gradients at all? Ive found they can cause nothing but hassle, especially with rtr steam locomotives and/or heavy kitbuilt stock. Which is why my kit built locos have extra weight in them. Flat earth is less interesting to "drive" trains on... Baz 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denbridge Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 11 hours ago, Barry O said: Which is why my kit built locos have extra weight in them. Flat earth is less interesting to "drive" trains on... Baz I agree. But it is often difficult to add sufficient weight to rtr . 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Keith Addenbrooke Posted February 5, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2021 13 hours ago, Barry O said: Flat earth is less interesting to "drive" trains on... Baz One of my layout ideas is for a US Prairie Town - looking at photos and track layouts, flat earth and a station laid out in a straight line (shocking!) seems to be a good way to capture the essence of this particular prototype. A long way from mid-Cornwall though. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TrevorP1 Posted February 5, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2021 18 minutes ago, Keith Addenbrooke said: One of my layout ideas is for a US Prairie Town - looking at photos and track layouts, flat earth and a station laid out in a straight line (shocking!) seems to be a good way to capture the essence of this particular prototype. A long way from mid-Cornwall though. I've always fancied doing something like that as well. The Homecoming was how I wanted to go about it. Just after the last post in that thread my life changed dramatically for the better and that eventually led to my layout Burngullow Lane. However, in turn it meant I had to focus on one project and ideas like American diorama had to stop. Ironically I've just put the E7 and a couple of coach (car?) kits on eBay. I still like the American theme but I have to be content to get my fix with books. 2 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullie Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 3 hours ago, Keith Addenbrooke said: One of my layout ideas is for a US Prairie Town - looking at photos and track layouts, flat earth and a station laid out in a straight line (shocking!) seems to be a good way to capture the essence of this particular prototype. A long way from mid-Cornwall though. Sounds like the Fens except sometimes the rail line and the roads have to be raised up flat, level and straight because it is largely reclaimed land. Martyn 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 6, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 6, 2021 On 05/02/2021 at 09:10, St Enodoc said: In theory, no. I decided to have shallow gradients between Porthmellyn Road and St Enodoc, and between St Enodoc and Treloggan Junction, purely for visual reasons. In those planning days my 42xx was an ancient Cotswold kit, which weighed more than two Hornby models put together and on a previous layout could pull the same train up a 1 in 50 incline round 30" reverse curves without breaking sweat. I'm fairly sure that the added lead will do the trick, as I simulated some extra weight by balancing various things on top of the roof and firebox when I was testing the other day. Another possible option might be to turn the locos round so that the weight transfer is towards the back not the front. I'll know tomorrow! Passenger trains shouldn't be a problem as, following the prototype, longer/heavier trains will be double-headed. A quick test today and both locos can now lift the long china-clay train up the gradient, both bunker-first (as intended) and chimney-first. Another time I'll add more load to see what the limits are but for now I'm happy and, once I've sorted out the roofs (not to perfection but slightly better than on Thursday) the locos will again be right for work. 10 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chamby Posted February 6, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 6, 2021 On 04/02/2021 at 10:34, St Enodoc said: Oh sh!t. The roofs are very thin and the UHU I used to stick the lead on has partially dissolved and distorted them. Buqqer. I'll have to get the filler out when the glue's dried. Strangely enough I had a similar thing happen to me a couple of weeks ago but with tender sides. I have used UHU routinely for fixing real coal in tenders without problems, until... this was a Bachmann ‘Crab’. (I only have a couple of Midland region loco’s but this will haul a through beer train from Burton-upon-Trent). The tender coal space does not have an internal hopper in this model, so the inner tender sides were exposed to the glue and duly deformed. Fortunately the resultant ‘dimples’ didn’t affect the mixed-traffic lining on the tender sides, so repair was straightforward. Lesson learned! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 6, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 6, 2021 18 minutes ago, Chamby said: Strangely enough I had a similar thing happen to me a couple of weeks ago but with tender sides. I have used UHU routinely for fixing real coal in tenders without problems, until... this was a Bachmann ‘Crab’. (I only have a couple of Midland region loco’s but this will haul a through beer train from Burton-upon-Trent). The tender coal space does not have an internal hopper in this model, so the inner tender sides were exposed to the glue and duly deformed. Fortunately the resultant ‘dimples’ didn’t affect the mixed-traffic lining on the tender sides, so repair was straightforward. Lesson learned! Interesting, Phil. I only use UHU where lead is involved (but, based on @Michael Edge Mike's comment above, I might try Plastic Padding or its Australian equivalent), to avoid the dreaded lead/PVA reaction. For coal I use PVA straight from the bottle, while for fixing crew in place I've started using Black Tack for tank engines, where the lumps don't matter. For tender engines I sometimes glue the crew direct to the footplate with MEK or similar, but if access is a bit awkward I glue them to a false footplate and fix that on top of the original one. Horses for courses, as always. 6 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 6, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 6, 2021 We're busy with a number of non-railway related things this weekend, so train time is a bit limited. Other than testing 4206 and 4247, all I did on the layout today was to slop Railmatch 402 Frame Dirt over the rails, bare copperclad and soldered joints on the branch trackwork, to get it ready for ballasting. No photos, as blotchy brown track isn't terribly exciting. Back indoors I've refitted and painted the 42xx roofs, which in matt black don't look as bad as I feared they might. 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted February 6, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 6, 2021 On 04/02/2021 at 22:39, Barry O said: Which is why my kit built locos have extra weight in them. Flat earth is less interesting to "drive" trains on... Baz Wot like where I live? The GNR ran trains across here, the tree line on the right marks where the railway went. It went before Beeching. 2 2 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodcock29 Posted February 6, 2021 Share Posted February 6, 2021 (edited) I usually glue lead weights in with 5 min araldite. I only ever use PVA on locos for adding coal. Generally my range of glues are quite limited. The only other two I ever use are superglue and Kwikgrip but one needs to be careful with that on plastics. It must be similar to UHU. Araldite is usually what I use for gluing glazing into windows. With a signal box I built recently some of the windows were stuck in with double sided tape and then finally fixed with the araldite. Araldite doesn't seem to react adversely with anything as its a resin based glue compared with say Kwikgrip and UHU which contain solvents. I've just been making a level crossing and in the end end I just glued the timbers around the track with superglue. On some recent coaches where the roofs can be removed I only fixed the windows with double sided tape as its very tedious with the araldite! Andrew Edited February 6, 2021 by Woodcock29 1 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 6, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 6, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, Woodcock29 said: Kwikgrip and UHU Kwikgrip = Evo-stik Multigrip (Allfix) = UHU 5 hours ago, Woodcock29 said: recent coaches where the roofs can be removed I only fixed the windows with double sided tape Double-sided tape is very useful as long as you can find a high-tack version. I use an ancient roll of genuine Sellotape. I don't know which Australian brand I would choose. Edited February 7, 2021 by St Enodoc 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandwich station Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 7 hours ago, St Enodoc said: Double-sided tape is very useful as long as you can find a high-tack version. I use an ancient roll of genuine Sellotape. I don't know which Australian brand I would choose. Sticky tape wasn't called that when I first came out here. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post St Enodoc Posted February 7, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted February 7, 2021 (edited) I finished tidying up the two 2-8-0Ts today, by scrubbing up the matt black roofs with a stiff toothbrush and fitting lamps. It occurred to me that, as I mentioned earlier, both locos will run between the Paddington and Polperran fiddle yards, with them and the long clay train being remarshalled by hand. Consequently, the locos can be turned to avoid the need to move the lamps. I therefore decided to glue the lamps in place so that one loco would always run chimney-first and the other bunker-first, to give a bit of variety. Here's 4206 with the lamp in position at the back for a Class K freight (mineral or empty wagon train), which is correct both for the full and empty china-clay trains. You can see where the cab roof is still slightly distorted but it doesn't look this bad (to me at least) from further away and other angles. Likewise, here's 4247 with the lamp in the corresponding position at the front. 4247's roof doesn't tilt up as much at the back, with the distortion being more in the area of the shutter. The fact that the drivers and firemen have had both legs amputated at the knee doesn't show at all. Edited June 28, 2023 by St Enodoc Images restored 20 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodcock29 Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 7 hours ago, St Enodoc said: Kwikgrip = Evo-stik Multigrip (Allfix) = UHU Double-sided tape is very useful as long as you can find a high-tack version. I use an ancient roll of genuine Sellotape. I don't know which Australian brand I would choose. John Not sure what brand my double-sided tape is but its quite strong in tack. I use it quite often to hold items being painted to a piece of wood - as long as there is a bit of surface area to bond to its very good. Andrew 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingEdwardII Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 2 hours ago, St Enodoc said: the two 2-8-0Ts Are the 42xx the Hornby models? If so, do you have any problems with the electrical pickups ? Yours, Mike. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 7, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 7, 2021 3 minutes ago, KingEdwardII said: Are the 42xx the Hornby models? If so, do you have any problems with the electrical pickups ? Yours, Mike. Yes they are, Mike, and no I've never had any trouble with the pickups. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TrevorP1 Posted February 7, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 7, 2021 1 hour ago, KingEdwardII said: Are the 42xx the Hornby models? If so, do you have any problems with the electrical pickups ? Yours, Mike. I have one as well - also renumbered to 4206 - and it is a smooth and reliable runner. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted February 7, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 7, 2021 I use Klear to fasten window into coaches etc.. seems to work ok but they can be "popped" out by pressing on them.. having said that I think that most methods of fixing will do the same.. Baz 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chamby Posted February 8, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2021 My travels took me through Bugle yesterday, and I was able to stop and take a few photo's and measurements of the road overbridge. Key measurements: Staircase height from platform to pavement on bridge: 26 steps, each 7 inches high. Road width: 2 lanes each 9ft 6 inches wide Pavement width: 4 feet. Parapet width: 15 inches. Parapet height above pavement: 4 feet. The approach road to the station was of stone setts, with a thin, old covering of tarmac in very poor repair. Photographs herewith: three steel spans with block parapets above. Apologies for the poor lighting, the sun was just about to disappear over the horizon. Note the ancient Cornish greeting graffitied under the bridge! Above two photo's: the left hand arch as viewed from the station, now used as an access road. Next three photo's: the other two arches, either side of the platform. 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 8, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2021 Looking ahead... The entrance to the double-ended Polperran fiddle yard will be on a 30" radius curve leading into a double slip, giving access to the five tracks at each end. At the Down end (next to Porthmellyn Road) space will be at a premium, so I want to use A5 points here. I think I have two options for the double slip: 1. Modify my existing 1 in 6 - the original trial version - which might or might not inovlve a slight reverse curve through teh straight roads; or 2. Build a 1 in 5, with sprung blades like the one on the SMP template, where the slip road radius appears to be about 30" - some of the locos won't go round anything less. Have any of you any experience of either or both of these options and, if so, what pros and cons can you share? Thanks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 8, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2021 3 minutes ago, Chamby said: My travels took me through Bugle yesterday, and I was able to stop and take a few photo's and measurements of the road overbridge. Key measurements: Staircase height from platform to pavement on bridge: 26 steps, each 7 inches high. Road width: 2 lanes each 9ft 6 inches wide Pavement width: 4 feet. Parapet width: 15 inches. Parapet height above pavement: 4 feet. The approach road to the station was of stone setts, with a thin, old covering of tarmac in very poor repair. Photographs herewith: three steel spans with block parapets above. Apologies for the poor lighting, the sun was just about to disappear over the horizon. Note the ancient Cornish greeting graffitied under the bridge! Above two photo's: the left hand arch as viewed from the station, now used as an access road. Next three photo's: the other two arches, either side of the platform. Fantastic, Phil - thank you so much for taking the trouble to do this. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chamby Posted February 8, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2021 2 minutes ago, St Enodoc said: Looking ahead... The entrance to the double-ended Polperran fiddle yard will be on a 30" radius curve leading into a double slip, giving access to the five tracks at each end. At the Down end (next to Porthmellyn Road) space will be at a premium, so I want to use A5 points here. I think I have two options for the double slip: 1. Modify my existing 1 in 6 - the original trial version - which might or might not inovlve a slight reverse curve through teh straight roads; or 2. Build a 1 in 5, with sprung blades like the one on the SMP template, where the slip road radius appears to be about 30" - some of the locos won't go round anything less. Have any of you any experience of either or both of these options and, if so, what pros and cons can you share? Thanks. Have you considered building an outside slip? The geometry might be better suited to your needs: 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 8, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2021 10 minutes ago, Chamby said: Have you considered building an outside slip? The geometry might be better suited to your needs: That's an interesting thought, Phil - thanks. My first reaction is that it might not solve the length problem but I'll sketch one out and see how it looks. My second reaction is that the idea of six vees and four separate sets of switches gives me the shivers... 2 2 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KymN Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 On 01/02/2021 at 16:34, St Enodoc said: There will probably be five overbridges when the layout is complete. 10 buses/5 bridges = 2 buses per bridge. Simples. According to several notable magazines the worst cameos that they see are buses on bridges over the railway. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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