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Stromallee - 21st century Saxony in TT.


Taigatrommel
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In der dunklen Seite der Stadt...

 

On the eastern fringes of Steinrücken's Industriegelände, just beyond the town's power station, stands a paper mill.  Built in the 1920s, the works survived the post-Wende industrial collapse and today operates in private hands as Steinrückner Papier GmbH.  The paper mill enjoys a steady supply of wood from the Zellwald which comes in by road, however other raw materials are delivered by rail from further afield, such as lime from Rübeland.  The mill sends out some of its production by rail.  The wagonload consignments in and out are served by trip workings from Riesa and Dresden, some run by DB Schenker and others by the Mittelweserbahn.  The line to the mill is the rump of the former Lommatzscher Kreisbahn, the only other remaining rail served site being a coal merchant's across the road (the eponymous Stromallee) from the mill.  There's not much else further up the road, just a few farms and the village of Luga, and so the surface beyond the paper mill's entrance remains cobbled and narrow.

 

Running past the paper mill site is KBS 506, the Borsdorf - Coswig railway.  This was electrified as far as Steinrücken in 1970, becoming part of Dresden's S-Bahn in 1973.  Push-pull trains run hourly to Steinrücken, others terminating further east, in Meissen.  DMUs run from Meissen to Leipzig.  At times of engineering on KBS 500 (Leipzig - Dresden), long distance trains may be seen running through Steinrücken.  The line is single track, though a passing loop at the junction with the former Kreisbahn allows shorter trains to cross.

 

That's the fictional background.  I'll post this now to avoid losing it, then follow with some progress pictures.

Edited by Taigatrommel
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The layout...

 

I widened some existing boards by deepening the framework, laid the initial part of the mainline, then removed the sheet material and cut big holes in it.

 

blogentry-6973-0-88018900-1378809372.jpg

 

Then I started adding the sloping lines for the industrial area.

 

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The plan is based on City Classics show layout, itself a development of Gum Stump & Snowshoe.  Trackwork is Tillig, with some Peco H0m used in the fiddle yard.

Edited by Taigatrommel
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I sprayed the track with Railmatch sleeper grime, and ballasted the points using Green Scene N scale ballast, secured with Johnson's Klear.  Yes, I still have a bottle.  I did experiment with Pledge on one, and the ballast came away.  The first bit of scenic work I started was the road, there are three level crossings, of which I've completed one.  I want each to be unique, the first has concrete segments for the rail area.  Both cobbles and the concrete are Auhagen products.

 

2013-11-1617_zpsa1b99a52.jpg

Edited by Taigatrommel
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The second scenic job I've tackled have been tunnel mouths and retaining walls for the mainline scenic breaks.  Again, they have distinct differences.  The eastern end has a modern look, in keeping with upgrades that have been happening on Saxon railways lately.  It's made of balsa and foam board.  I gave it an initial coat of Wilko emulsion, but it still looked a bit woody.  I'm currently going over it with high build primer, and then it'll be the emulsion again!

 

blogentry-6973-0-02746200-1400601721.jpg

 

The loco (Traxx DE) and wagons are from a Tillig start set.  Actually, the loco wasn't used much in Germany, rather it has been working for Akiem in Belgium.

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The main thinking area of the layout is the paper mill.  I confess, I hadn't really planned thoroughly, instead I'd simply slung down some sidings and tried to work out what could go where.  The main building is simple enough, being based upon Grünhainichen's.  The loading and unloading points, less so.  I decided to start with the obvious and make an unloading bunker for dry powders, lime or kaolin I guess.

 

Nothing fancy, some girders, peco individulay chairs and sidewalls, presumably stopping staff from falling in.  I debated having a mesh over the pit, but what few images I could find of German unloading bunkers don't seem to have them.

 

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I didn't go to town, as by the time the shed is over it, you can't see a lot anyway.  The shed is evergreen sheet siding with plastruct gutters and strengthening ribs.  Even with the ribs it still needs a base to hold it square.

 

post-6973-0-84619900-1420638834_thumb.jpg

 

It's just long enough for two Tds or one Tadgs hopper.

 

post-6973-0-08561200-1420638870_thumb.jpg

Edited by Taigatrommel
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With the guidance of Jonathan Buckie at Clockwork Ideas, I've been using designing laser cut components for Stromallee.  The most noticable of these is the main paper mill building.  It's a 2mm MDF shell overlaid with brick and detail drawn up and cut into 1mm MDF.  I've also had glazing and window frames custom cut.

 

post-6973-0-02147300-1420647454_thumb.jpg

 

Other parts I've had cut are precast concrete segments for roadway and signal cable troughing.

 

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Pushing the recommended wall thickness beyond that which Jonathan recommended, I chose to try and replicate this "concrete stone" wall I saw near Bw Dresden-Atstadt.

 

wallsmall_zpsec8616dc.jpg

 

I'd say it went well!

 

walltt_zpsc1a4c2e5.jpg

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That does look like a lot of progress has been accomplished! (I'll yet have to do any layout work at all...) Looking forward to your depiction of my general area!

 

(Don't forget some advertising for Köstritzer dark beer!)

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Well, I really have to put some work in now...  Stromallee is invited to a European TT event in Derby on March 1st.  The show's being promoted by the European Railways Association.  Here's the details...

 

Saturday 1st March 2015
Opens 10.30am and closes 4.00pm
Entry: £4.00 All Adults.
York Suite, Smart Aston Court Hotel, Midland Road, Derby DE1 2SL (Opposite railway station)

 

I wish this rain would stop so I could go outside and spray some walls...

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A break from essay writing to post a pic...

 

2015-01-15174533_zps9909c1b7.jpg

 

I'm finalising building placements. The blocky building on the left will be laminated with steel siding, to represent storage silos. There's also the scenic exit for the industrial tracks taking shape. I have to make a loading dock now, I'll probably draw up a shell for cutting again, I just don't trust plasticard alone, it's too prone to warping.

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Interesting scale, interesting layout and interesting prototype! 

I will follow with interest.

 

What is the availability of German/European TT like in the UK?

 

David

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What is the availability of German/European TT like in the UK?

 

David

 

Not great to be honest, although you can order Piko and Roco stuff without too much disparity of price compared to Europe.  However, Tillig (the largest TT brand) is sold at a ridiculous mark up by OnTracks/Golden Valley, and given I can order with free postage from Modellbahnshop Lippe I just don't buy Tillig from UK dealers.  Hornby International (Arnold) models are up in the air as far as UK distribution goes at present, and the other smaller brands have no UK presence whatsoever.  I find the best "one stop" shops for TT are Elriwa and Modellbahnshop Sebnitz.

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As an expansion on my previous post, I thought I might discuss what modelling German outline in TT is like, in terms of product availability.

 

TT remained popular in East Germany after N had stolen its thunder elsewhere, and the legacy of that is an eastern leaning in the available models.  When Tillig first launched in 1993, it was selling models initially developed by Berliner TT Bahnen (BTTB).  These were generally quite dated in detail appearance, though Tillig improved the mechanisms considerably.  New models have expanded the scope with vintage and modern outline traction and rolling stock from both East and West Germany, plus reliveries for other countries where widespread designs allow.  The fidelity of models varies, from excellent to disappointing, even in fairly recently tooled models.  I'll single out their Eurofima style coaches as being particularly poor.

 

20+ years later, and there is now choice in manufacturers.  Roco initially produced models on behalf of Tillig (BR80, BR132/232), though these are now sold under their own brand with a few additions.  Roco annoyingly don't use proper NEM coupling pockets on many of their models, and rather than using either of the standard TT couplings they fit the Fleischmann Profi coupling from N scale.  However, the coupling mount they use is compatible with NEM couplings, it's just fiddlier to fit them.  The only loco of real significance for post-Wende modelling from Roco is the 232 and variants, though a couple of their wagons are useful.

 

Piko initially produced simple "Hobby" locos in TT, an ER20 (Hercules) and ES 64 U2 (Taurus).  These run nicely enough, and are very cheap.  The range has expanded for the modern scene with a MaK G1206, ICE 3 and Talent 2, and for West German modellers with a BR 151 and V90 - both available in vintage and contemporary liveries.  Lately though Piko have jumped on the DDR bandwagon with models that duplicate older toolings in the Tillig range, and a useful shunter.  There's a grand choice of two wagons, a two axle container flat and a cement wagon.

 

Kuehn have a range of diesel and electric locos plus a couple of DDR coach designs, their quality is good for reasonable prices.  It's notable that where locos are duplicated by other manufacturers, Tillig's versions sell cheaper than the rest of their range.  I think Tillig are trying hard to get modellers to stick with them exclusively- this has also seen Tillig announcing models shortly after other makes have announced them...  Kuehn suffer from long product development times.

 

Arnold (Hornby) are the latest brand to really try and get a piece of the action, having had a Köf available since before Hornby's takeover, they've expanded the range over the last couple of years.  Only one of these models duplicated a Tillig item, in this case articulated double deckers which date back to Berliner days.  However, within days of Hornby announcing a BR95, Tillig were handing out hastily made flyers advertising a new one from them.  Neither has yet made it to the marketplace...  In terms of interest to the contemporary scene, only a battery shunter holds any significance, though a ballast wagon that's just been announced was in use for the first decade of the 21st century.

 

There are numerous smaller makes, inlcuding Kres, Beckmann, Krüger, Profi Modell Thyrow and Busch.  Most are relatively expensive owing to small scale production.

 

In terms of track, there are three main choices.  Tillig have a wide range, though it's got a very heavy rail profile - 2mm high.  Kuehn have a limited range which is finer in appearance, though the points are rather sharp for modellers' use.  Finally, TT Filigran produce the best looking track in kit and ready to lay form, with wooden and plastic sleepers.  It's relatively expensive, but my intention is to use it on the scenic area of all future projects.  Signals are available for various types, both East and West.  Overhead parts are offered by Viessmann and Sommerfeldt, though nothing like the range available in H0.

 

Buildings wise, Auhagen have the most offerings, some very fine models, others a little chunkier.  Other major brands such as Faller offer a few bits.  What I've found is that there are plenty of railway buildings and a nice selection of residential and commercial buildings, but industrial buildings are sorely lacking.  There's some good laser cut stuff on the Czech market, but to me they don't look right for a Germanic setting.

 

Road vehicles is perhaps the most frustratingly limited area.  There's plenty of DDR vehicles, with duplication of Trabants, Wartburgs and IFAs from multiple brands, plus a nice Fortschritt tractor from Busch.  However, finding anything made post 1990 is hard.  There are Golfs and Passats, but prices are high (circa €18 for a car) and the quality variable.  Herpa do a few lorries though, I have a Mercedes-Benz Actross from them, and it's a decent model.

 

The overall scene is healthy and dynamic.  Epoch III and IV East Germany is quite easy to model, and Epoch IV West Germany only really suffers for want of a Schienenbus.  Epoch V and VI doesn't have a comprehensive range yet, and some of the gaps are frustrating.  The only modern DMU is a 642 Desiro, something like a 612 would really be useful.  There is a 628.4 from Kres for the Western scene.  There's only one type of currently used double deck stock available, and it's a type mostly used in the west.  I'll have to make do on Stromallee.  There's no Halberstadt driving car, yet Silberling drivers are available from Kuehn and Tillig.

 

The other major country that can be modelled without too much frustration in TT is the Czech Republic, but that would be a post on its own.

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  • 1 month later...

The European Railways Association had a TT information day in Derby on Sunday.  I went up with a very unfinished Stromallee (college workload exploded in February) and treated myself to a Czech wagon kit.  It's very nice.  The plastic parts aren't quite up to Parkside standard, but are better than many others.  The kit is pretty complete, having transfers, close couplings with NEM pockets & Kuehn couplings and wheels.  The wheels are plastic, but that's easily addressed.  The instructions are in Czech and German with clear assembly diagrams.

 

2015-03-02%2013.17.50_zpsd5y1n0mb.jpg

 

OK, I paid over the odds (they're about a tenner in the Czech Republic), but it gave me a chance to see what it's like.  The containers are the most accurate I've found yet in 1:120, so that's a big plus.  There are etched parts to fit, and they're fiddly.  I can't even fold up the buffer protectors without breaking them, and I've lost one of the shunters' steps.  I've fabricated new buffer protectors from 10 thou plasticard, a very fiddly job!  I might leave them off the other end.

 

2015-03-03%2015.20.37_zpsfu9fcvcz.jpg

Edited by Taigatrommel
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  • 3 weeks later...

I've finished the transfers stage on the tank.

 

2015-03-25%2012.48.13_zpsylfgppz6.jpg

 

As I'm in a weathering mood, I'm attacking some hoppers, covered and open.  First task is removing the "Getreide" (crops) lettering from a Tadgs-y to use it as a Tads-y.  Solvents such as IPA and thinners don't touch Tillig lettering, the paint underneath comes off before the writing!  So I'm gently scraping it away with a curved blade.

 

2015-03-25%2014.14.39_zpshqohi2bu.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Egads!  Some modelling has occurred!

 

I've been making a liquids unloading point, trying to follow what I can see as standard practice according to image searches.  I've used Knightwing pipes and fittings, but I'm not that happy with them- I've heard Plastruct produce flange fittings which should look a lot more realistic.

 

2015-06-08%2014.31.55_zpse0soxc0m.jpg

 

Pipe cradle with drain underneath.

 

2015-06-08%2019.01.34_zpsf7lai1lf.jpg

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  • 4 months later...

The tank unloading gear is just about finished, though the drain covers need a dusting of rust.  I used insulin tube for the flexible hoses, though they're very elastic and needing encouragement with heat from a soldering iron to stay in tight bends.  A slither of plastic tube makes up the hose connector at the wagon end.  For a bit of life, I've used a mechanic figure in a pose suggesting he's repairing a pipe end.

 

2015-10-21%2015.07.08.jpg?raw=1

 

Of course, with stock in place and from the normal viewing side, it's all but hidden.

 

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I've also settled on the colour of the tanks and silos, a pale green.  I'm slowly adding detail to things like this.

 

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Knitting Overhead is finally being strung up.  This is only done after ballasting, but needs to be in place before I can finish the scenic contours as the tensioning gear is hidden under the landscape.  The catenary and contact wire is 0.012" guitar string, and the droppers 0.008".  The cantilevers are 0.020" brass.  I build up the spans on a jig of 4x1 with some nails stuck in it, their positions measured to match the masts.

 

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I've made the basic shapes for some wood chipping equipment.

 

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I built an admin building from a Busch barracks kit.  It didn't seem right that a commercial building should have steps only, so I'm cobbling together a ramp for disabled access.  Although I got my dimensions for the ramp from building regs, it looks awfully large.  I'll go with accuracy though.

 

2015-10-21%2016.17.22.jpg?raw=1

 

I've also finished the main wiring, after this comes the headache of automation experiments...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got the layout down today as I found myself in the mood for shunting.  Having dragged it all downstairs and set it up, I'd run out of energy to play trains.  Instead, I plugged away at a couple of menial tasks, and within an hour had the signal trunking all placed, the last three overhead masts attached and the final three feet of mainline ballasted.  This is actually very significant, as with the last of the overhead in I can cover the tensioning gear beyond the tunnel portals and finish the scenic contours.

 

It also looks like I have an exhibition invite, but I'll wait for it to be finalised before posting the details!

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Here's my approach to making catenary spans.  I use 12 gauge guitar strings for the contact and catenary wire, and 8 gauge for the droppers.

 

EDIT:  This method is for a tensioned system.  You'd want some heavier/more rigid wire if your system isn't tensioned.

 

Measure the distance between the cantilevers which the span will hang between.

 

2015-11-11%2008.45.41.jpg?raw=1

 

Hammer some tacks or nails into a piece of wood to start one end of the assembly jig.  The two on the right are separated by the distance of the catenary wire and the contact wire on the cantilever.  The one on the left is an anchor point.

 

2015-11-11%2008.48.51.jpg?raw=1

 

At the distance measured in step one, produce a mirror image of the nails at the other end.

 

2015-11-11%2008.51.14.jpg?raw=1

 

For the contact wire, I want it to be as straight as possible.  At one end, using the ball end on the string I secure the string to the anchor nail.  At the other, I simply wrap it around the anchor nail with a few turns.  Then I cut off the excess to form the catenary wire.  The catenary wire is simply held in place with blu-tack, it doesn't want to be taut.

 

2015-11-11%2010.16.02.jpg?raw=1

 

Mark out the positions for the droppers.  If the span has an odd number of droppers, start with the centre point to give a third reference mark and thus a reduction in the risk of compound error.  I've chosen the spacing of droppers simply from looking at pictures and working out what looks right.  In TT, a spacing of 50-60mm looks OK.  Consequently, the number of droppers is worked out according to the division that brings the spacing closest to this range.

 

2015-11-11%2008.56.01.jpg?raw=1

 

As for the length of the droppers themselves, this was a matter of trial and error.  My first attempts didn't quite have the right curve to the catenary wire.  As luck would have it, I placed one catenary wire in place ready for attaching droppers, and its curve just looked right. So I measured from that, and replicated it.  On spans of approx. 360mm with five droppers, the centre dropper was 9mm, the next ones out 10mm, and the ones closest to the cantilevers 12mm.  The spacing at the cantilevers between contact and catenary wire is normally 15mm.  I bent a small length at right angles to the droppers, and tinned them.  Then I tinned the catenary and contact wires at the appropriate places.  At all times, work with as clean a soldering iron tip as you can- blobs are the enemy of a smooth riding pantograph!  I do use a little flux to encourage the solder to go where I want it.  I use blu-tack to hold the dropper where I want it to be.  When attaching it to the two wires, I do not add any extra solder, allowing the tinning to form the bond.

 

2015-11-11%2008.59.38.jpg?raw=1

 

At the end of adding droppers, you should be left with something looking like this:

 

2015-11-11%2009.19.39.jpg?raw=1

 

Bend hooks in the ends of the span to attach to the cantilevers.  This gives you a more secure attachment if soldering into place, or a section which can be removed across a baseboard joint.

 

2015-11-11%2009.46.51.jpg?raw=1

 

Hang from your cantilevers.  I'm afraid I'd already made them all before this thread, so I can't do a similar step by step in making them!  Anyway, if you're attaching them, a useful tool is a template for the width of a pantograph (or NEM spec).  These are available from Sommerfeldt in N and H0, but I had to make my own in TT.  The contact wire must be positioned within this range.

 

2015-11-11%2010.36.25.jpg?raw=1

 

Not covered by this step by step is the process of positioning masts, which was done with a similar jig at track level testing the position of the contact wire relative to the track.  The small holes are the wire's permissable range, the large ones a drill positioning jig for Sommerfeldt masts.  The left hand one is upside down, showing my simple method of indexing it to the track.  Again, these are available ready made in N and H0.

 

2015-11-11%2010.40.00.jpg?raw=1

Edited by Taigatrommel
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Hi Rich,

That's most opportune, thank you!

A very dear friend of mine is embarking on the model electrification of his layout and I am helping out, I'd tried similar to your method many years ago, with copper wire and rigidly fixing the catenary wires as well as the contact wire, now I can guess why that was not that successful.

Guitar strings, perfect!

Cheers,

John E.

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Hi John,

 

I should caution you that this method requires tensioning of the contact wire; my method for this is entirely copied from Andi Dell (Dagworth/Ravensclyffe), ie springs hidden in opportune locations - in my case, tunnels.  You could probably use heavier gauge string or rigid wire for untensioned catenary, but I haven't tried that.

 

Good luck with helping your friend.  Have you got the Sommerfeldt guide to electrification?

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