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  • RMweb Gold
12 minutes ago, bgman said:

 

Rob, 

 

Just out of curiosity can I ask what you do with the smaller table if you only use the larger one ? 

 

Would you be able to glue / attach them together to give you another baseboard ?

 

G

 

 

Evening Grahame. 

 

In theory, yes. 

 

Dowels and suitcase latchy things should do the job. 

 

Mmmm.......

 

 

 

Edited by NHY 581
Idiocy.
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Just now, NHY 581 said:

 

 

Evenibg Grahame. 

 

In theory, yes. 

 

Dowels and suitcase latchy things should do the job. 

 

Mmmm.......

 

The thought occurred as I was riding home passing the local Ikea and it made me wonder about those smaller ones. Maybe it's worth a try with dowels and some decent PVA or equivalent sticky stuff rather than store them away.

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  • RMweb Gold
6 minutes ago, bgman said:

 

The thought occurred as I was riding home passing the local Ikea and it made me wonder about those smaller ones. Maybe it's worth a try with dowels and some decent PVA or equivalent sticky stuff rather than store them away.

 

 

Or treat them as a four foot board that splits for transport..........

 

Edited by NHY 581
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37 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

 

 

Or treat them as a four foot board that splits for transport..........

 

 

And / or use for an additional fiddly diddly yard on one end as a complete unit ? 

Just thinking out loud.

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2 hours ago, phil_sutters said:

Isn't 'the last place' the last place you looked, because you stop looking after that.

 

As far as domestic missing items are concerned, things are not normally in the last place I look. But they can always be found in the first place Mrs Fishplate looks after I 've called in reinforcements :)

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18 minutes ago, Fishplate said:

 

As far as domestic missing items are concerned, things are not normally in the last place I look. But they can always be found in the first place Mrs Fishplate looks after I 've called in reinforcements :)

 

A friend of my wife calls such an event >>>> " A Man Look" !

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2 hours ago, Fishplate said:

 

As far as domestic missing items are concerned, things are not normally in the last place I look. But they can always be found in the first place Mrs Fishplate looks after I 've called in The Supervisor. :)

 

I think that's more accurate don't you.

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  • RMweb Gold

When I added scenery to a test track to make it suitable for an exhibition I decided that poking the turnouts with my finger was not on any more (the points were some Peco one I had used for quickness). So I used some lengths of plastruct and brass rod to operate the turnout from the front edge. The plastruct was buried in scenic stuff. One turnout played up after ballasting and the blade contact was not good enough for electrickery. I added a switch alongside the end of the rod to switch the blades and crossing.

I have since obtains some PCBs for Tim Coomb's Frog Polarity switch which connects up the crossing when needed but will no do so if it would casue a short. These will work with both DC and DCC but need a 12v separate supply as DC doesn't provide a steady voltage. I use the supply that runs led lights. Tim comes from your area (CF postcode anyway) 

 

Don

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  • RMweb Gold

If it's of interest, on the subject of manual point control, I use slide switches drilled out and with 2mm brass tube as the actuator connection.

 

I use quality switches from RS Components, not the cheap metal ones usually on sale at shows.

 

These are very robust.  https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/slide-switches/1759703

 

The plain rod will be replaced with threaded rod and nuts as a better method of adjustment. A simple system but it works for me.

 

1896903495_20210816_180027(1).jpg.16dd2dc1cd869d760a76c0473ae7673c.jpg

 

20210816_180057.jpg.6173dfb2ae256659e62e0d32b24301f8.jpg

 

 

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold
9 hours ago, Re6/6 said:

If it's of interest, on the subject of manual point control, I use slide switches drilled out and with 2mm brass tube as the actuator connection.

 

I use quality switches from RS Components, not the cheap metal ones usually on sale at shows.

 

These are very robust.  https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/slide-switches/1759703

 

The plain rod will be replaced with threaded rod and nuts as a better method of adjustment. A simple system but it works for me.

 

1896903495_20210816_180027(1).jpg.16dd2dc1cd869d760a76c0473ae7673c.jpg

 

20210816_180057.jpg.6173dfb2ae256659e62e0d32b24301f8.jpg

 

 

 

 

They work well but I used to help with a large (and superbly done) HO US layout that had these installed in just the way you describe - even after a single day of operating - which in this case did involve a lot of switching - I tended to have a very sore finger tip! I should say that they were fitted in such a way that you only had one angle of attack so it was always exactly the same sore spot...

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  • RMweb Gold

I've used similar similar slide switches, but drilled through from the side rather than front to back. This keeps the front and back surfaces clear for switching. The wire is bent 90° at the point it goes into the hole in the switch. I've used the brass insert from choc blocks to join the actuating wire sections, which allows adjustment of the throw - although not as much finesse as a threaded rod.

Edited by Ramblin Rich
more info
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  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Ramblin Rich said:

I've used similar similar slide switches, but drilled through from the side rather than front to back. This keeps the front and back surfaces clear for switching. The wire is bent 90° at the point it goes into the hole in the switch. I've used the brass insert from choc blocks to join the actuating wire sections, which allows adjustment of the throw - although not as much finesse as a threaded rod.

 

I never thought of that Rich!:o

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  • RMweb Premium
16 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

Evening all. 

 

By way of an experiment, I present The Wall Attached Turnaround System. 

 

This will allow short trains to be operated whilst a more permanent 'rest of the world' area is decided upon. 

 

 

20210818_193749.jpg

 

 

And yes, it will be repainted a fetching shade of Battle Sheep grey. 

 

 

I thank you. 

 

 

 

I quite like the yellow, very enlivening.

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