well filled baps The Sheep Chronicles : These are the adventures of a Sheep, the Works Forecat and Naughty George,

[Dunsignalling]

The Kadee electric uncouplers are very good, if a little pricey. The older ones were a right faff but the current model has enough grunt to work through 6mm of plywood.

 

I don't know how much you can modify your Ikea shelves without wrecking them, but you might be able to engineer some sort of quick mount that would let you swap them between Project X and its successor(s)....

 

There's also a round one by Rapido, called a "Railcrew on-off uncoupler" that goes into an aperture easily created by a 45mm hole-saw from above which would probably suit you better. Looks difficult to find anybody with them in stock at present so they may be waiting on a new batch.

 

[Can't remember the name but it may be made by Rapido. Will edit later.] Duly Edited.

 

John 

Edited December 15, 2021 by Dunsignalling
Addition in bold for clarity

[Gilbert]

12 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

Evening all.

 

The Heljan class 15 and one of the Bachmann 03s have now  had their decoders fitted. The models were poles apart in terms of the ease  Obviously more than enough motive power for a layout that's 4ft x 16 inches and operates on a one engine in steam basis.........so to speak....

 

Rob. 

 

 

 

 

You can never have enough Rob...you need to allow for the "one engine in smoke " factor commonly associated with DCC......just saying...

Chris

[Izzy]

Interesting video. I’ve used 6x6mm/1/4” cylindrical on my little P4 job working 2mm S&W’s having finally given up the challenge of hand uncoupling now I’ve hit my early 70’s. But I did discover - not sure if it’s mentioned anywhere - that they need to have the same poles upwards. Choose one, stick to it, and for all future construction. Being me I just stuffed them in the holes. This size will, just, fit between the sleepers and can then have ballast sprinkled on top. Problem is over time the coupling metal bits get magnetised and only attracted to opposite Pole. So can get unreliable if not.

[New Haven Neil]

Try a Zimo chip in the 15, Rob - they have the best motor control.   I know exactly the issue you describe, despite turning starting voltage to the lowest setting, it is still too high for some mechanisms.  

[NHY 581]

5 minutes ago, New Haven Neil said:

Try a Zimo chip in the 15, Rob - they have the best motor control.   I know exactly the issue you describe, despite turning starting voltage to the lowest setting, it is still too high for some mechanisms.  

 

 

Thanks Neil. 

 

Phew, tgat was the conclusion I came to having spent some time reading up on it, altering cv's etc. 

 

Zimo was recommended for general use but they're not particularly available locally. I shall order a couple as I have two 15s to do eventually. 

 

Rob. 

[bgman]

3 hours ago, New Haven Neil said:

Try a Zimo chip in the 15, Rob - they have the best motor control.   I know exactly the issue you describe, despite turning starting voltage to the lowest setting, it is still too high for some mechanisms.  

 

Couldn't agree more Neil, best decoders out here by a mile.

[bgman]

3 hours ago, Izzy said:

Problem is over time the coupling metal bits get magnetised and only attracted to opposite Pole. So can get unreliable if not.

 

Interestingly after much experimenting with them myself I too have come to the same conclusion.

[Alex TM]

On 14/12/2021 at 18:57, Graham T said:

that should probably be enough locos

Sorry I'm a bit late to the conversation but I really don't get that comment ... how can you ever have enough locos?  

[NHY 581]

Evening all, 

 

 

 

Well, I have replaced the DCC Concepts Zen decoder in  the class 15 with a Bachmann/ Zimo 6pin decoder intended for another 03. using a Bachmann 6pin to 8pin harness. 

 

The improvement in the running is exactlty what was needed and the loco will now slow nicely to a gradual stop as required. 

 

Zimo it is then, certainly for the Class 15s. 

 

Just need to add a shim to sort the droopy kadees and all is good. 

 

Rob. 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 4, 2022 by NHY 581

[Izzy]

One of the (many) advantages of using Zimo’s is that AFAIK you can apply the F2 braking feature to both standard (non-sound) and sound decoders. I haven’t yet done it to any of my non-sound 2mm locos so I can’t sadly advise the actual cv changes needed to do this. Not sure either how far back the firmware versions go that support it. But with my 4/7mm sound fitted active drive etc. ones it’s nice fun using it, stopping in the right place and hearing the brakes as you do. 

 

[NHY 581]

Morning Izzy. 

 

Sound on more locos may well follow. The Bachmann 24 is good fun but for now it will remain the only noisy loco. 

 

I had a bit of a chuckle the other day when I was playing with, sorry, operating the trainset with the noisy 24 whilst playing a recording of tweety birdies in the background. 

Quite mesmerising letting the loco tick over with a bit of background tweeting, meadow sounds etc............

 

Of course the Memsahib thought I'd finally lost it..........

 

 

Rob. 

[Graham T]

I bought a rural sounds module, from Gaugemaster I think, which sits under the baseboard and plays whenever power is on the layout.  I suppose it's a bit of a gimmick really, but I enjoy it.  And I think my daughters will love it when they come to visit at Christmas!

[Izzy]

43 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

Morning Izzy. 

 

Sound on more locos may well follow. The Bachmann 24 is good fun but for now it will remain the only noisy loco. 

 

I had a bit of a chuckle the other day when I was playing with, sorry, operating the trainset with the noisy 24 whilst playing a recording of tweety birdies in the background. 

Quite mesmerising letting the loco tick over with a bit of background tweeting, meadow sounds etc............

 

Of course the Memsahib thought I'd finally lost it..........

 

 

Rob. 

Yes, as I am sure you are discovering DCC, and particularly sound, is a very nice and worthwhile experience, but a very slippery and expensive slope……….!!!

 

Bob

 

 

[Graham T]

16 minutes ago, Graham T said:

I bought a rural sounds module, from Gaugemaster I think, which sits under the baseboard and plays whenever power is on the layout.  I suppose it's a bit of a gimmick really, but I enjoy it.  And I think my daughters will love it when they come to visit at Christmas!

 

This was the one I got (no connection to the seller etc.)

 

https://www.hattons.co.uk/414018/gaugemaster_gm784_scenic_sound_module_rural_setting/stockdetail

 

[Mulgabill]

3 minutes ago, Graham T said:

 

This was the one I got (no connection to the seller etc.)

 

https://www.hattons.co.uk/414018/gaugemaster_gm784_scenic_sound_module_rural_setting/stockdetail

 

 

But  ...... does it include Seagulls????????

 

 

[Graham T]

Just now, Mulgabill said:

 

But  ...... does it include Seagulls????????

 

 

 

Ha!  No

 

Pheasants yes.  Also an owl if I remember correctly.  Lots of random twittering.  And of course mooing, and ...

 

 

 

... bleating.

[Re6/6]

Rob, when (!) I finally get to building Rüthi  I shall be using Kadees as well. The original plan was to fit screw links to all the vans as per Swiss prototype, but this little gizmo from Kadee seems to work rather well for 'hand from the sky' uncoupling.

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124988132190?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1d19df8b5e:g:X-cAAOSwXgNhg~pt&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSxXDXcCydCuSj2Tq2S%2F3GnmB%2Br%2BrRF%2Fvy%2F7F0%2BmJxhAeM6P2OADCkZd2kmrT4EcmJLokmnTzwm5uQYKcyoPdF6G%2FzfexnEds9kJouQaljGbi2n5DCAQhX6UIj9XfUUVcbzaBoLEXwUVq%2FZ21BpALJNa7bm1S9S8R5FLdAwc09ZyVnViM8Qy%2F%2BIZMmKsl1CFuZOURMMvZglq8zxX7prltSvAmaZqM4guVMiROk4Tw7JHWtzB6E7lbxDu%2BA6I66SemMfb3jNUrLfBPyzsBid5D3%2FI%2BZjNcyB9UWoLS%2B2GX1%2FErUt9XplfIgziGCmY9cylHlw9JgxwGaW1lotir315zsBHyylFnLI9YuXmidSd8GmMh18ln%2FyOQbCmtwCdNH90AhkjahBgzO8p40k%2FlKbcdJG6Eju7cJCZbOuepgNXIkmFMZiCyV1jl3tE4eqeMdrgFXaRI%2BAYxFPegE3R2Yli9UjoXmRjCBEns7cx6lvSwKysBH3tmTAyIb04qWrlYjPHwJAnTX%2BQL4ZqGHuy47zfHXE7NB2E0v3z9jhqa6wd0c1HIEZiLekBWnb3orjI%2FecNzJHvSmkynFNKBc6vb%2BmhJC99%2BFjjuzochvQK0FKlRUOl8dpdbg5LV1cDYJFodIXVLd%2BYxcFEzfSyUBjJO293FvawQTBj2PkBwr9zbcFHDapirigzltXu3unnxjzzESDR%2BV2h%2FxLygjGL5ybb2GV9quiUjoq%2BB09DXc%2FSv32CY%2F8l1ckcHh%2FsOGex6Zsl1R%2FCm0BUWWdWYURp85dFZW81TOnjX6UPPxWVfmM2%2FuSjtyesdEs9vYUVk2Di62LdLMiMR8lObsIosUwZ4JcTg39GSE6A%3D%3D|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBM0vSeuLhf

 

 

Edited December 16, 2021 by Re6/6

[MrWolf]

7 hours ago, Mulgabill said:

 

But  ...... does it include Seagulls????????

 

 

 

I suppose that I am lucky (maybe) if I want to be deafened by seagulls, I have the extremely cheap option of opening a window....

[NHY 581]

4 hours ago, Re6/6 said:

Rob, when (!) I finally get to building Rüthi  I shall be using Kadees as well. The original plan was to fit screw links to all the vans as per Swiss prototype, but this little gizmo from Kadee seems to work rather well for 'hand from the sky' uncoupling.

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124988132190?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1d19df8b5e:g:X-cAAOSwXgNhg~pt&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSxXDXcCydCuSj2Tq2S%2F3GnmB%2Br%2BrRF%2Fvy%2F7F0%2BmJxhAeM6P2OADCkZd2kmrT4EcmJLokmnTzwm5uQYKcyoPdF6G%2FzfexnEds9kJouQaljGbi2n5DCAQhX6UIj9XfUUVcbzaBoLEXwUVq%2FZ21BpALJNa7bm1S9S8R5FLdAwc09ZyVnViM8Qy%2F%2BIZMmKsl1CFuZOURMMvZglq8zxX7prltSvAmaZqM4guVMiROk4Tw7JHWtzB6E7lbxDu%2BA6I66SemMfb3jNUrLfBPyzsBid5D3%2FI%2BZjNcyB9UWoLS%2B2GX1%2FErUt9XplfIgziGCmY9cylHlw9JgxwGaW1lotir315zsBHyylFnLI9YuXmidSd8GmMh18ln%2FyOQbCmtwCdNH90AhkjahBgzO8p40k%2FlKbcdJG6Eju7cJCZbOuepgNXIkmFMZiCyV1jl3tE4eqeMdrgFXaRI%2BAYxFPegE3R2Yli9UjoXmRjCBEns7cx6lvSwKysBH3tmTAyIb04qWrlYjPHwJAnTX%2BQL4ZqGHuy47zfHXE7NB2E0v3z9jhqa6wd0c1HIEZiLekBWnb3orjI%2FecNzJHvSmkynFNKBc6vb%2BmhJC99%2BFjjuzochvQK0FKlRUOl8dpdbg5LV1cDYJFodIXVLd%2BYxcFEzfSyUBjJO293FvawQTBj2PkBwr9zbcFHDapirigzltXu3unnxjzzESDR%2BV2h%2FxLygjGL5ybb2GV9quiUjoq%2BB09DXc%2FSv32CY%2F8l1ckcHh%2FsOGex6Zsl1R%2FCm0BUWWdWYURp85dFZW81TOnjX6UPPxWVfmM2%2FuSjtyesdEs9vYUVk2Di62LdLMiMR8lObsIosUwZ4JcTg39GSE6A%3D%3D|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBM0vSeuLhf

 

 

 

 

Evening John, 

 

Yes, I have a pokey stick which came with the bundle of goodies from John ( Warwick sidings ). Not worked out how to use it yet mind you but given the apparent sucess I'm having with the magnets, hopefully it's

use will be the exception.........

 

Key of course  is setting the height of the couplings and as mentioned elsewhere, adding weight and drag to wagons. This won't cause an issue on my little layout with short trains.  Not that I am expert in any of this by any stretch of one's imagination but I'm getting a better idea

 

Looking forward to seeing Rüthi by the way....

 

 

Rob. 

 

[Re6/6]

Just stick the pokey thing between the knuckles and twist clockwise a quarter turn and hey presto...!

[NHY 581]

4 minutes ago, Re6/6 said:

Just stick the pokey thing between the knuckles and twist clockwise a quarter turn and hey presto...!

 

 

Noted and duly executed, John. Thank you. 

 

 

[Re6/6]

[PaulRhB]

11 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

Yes, I have a pokey stick which came with the bundle of goodies from John ( Warwick sidings ). Not worked out how to use it yet mind you but given the apparent sucess I'm having with the magnets, hopefully it's

use will be the exception.........

A bbq bamboo skewer works quite well too if you just run the pointy bit over some coarse sandpaper to rough the end up a bit. Poke it in the knuckle and twizzle it round and they are a fair bit cheaper and easier to come by than the kadee plastic version. 

[NHY 581]

2 hours ago, PaulRhB said:

A bbq bamboo skewer works quite well too if you just run the pointy bit over some coarse sandpaper to rough the end up a bit. Poke it in the knuckle and twizzle it round and they are a fair bit cheaper and easier to come by than the kadee plastic version. 

 

 

The Spear of Disentanglement..........

[NHY 581]

Morning all, 

 

By way of an update for the Class 15, with the chippy issues resolved and now having a creepy crawly loco, thoughts  turned to the floppy couplers. Heljan have their own version of an NEM pockets and to me, it's not the most robust offering, leading to droop at that most inconvenient of moments. 

 

There are two "whiskers" which support the pocket which engage either side of a small spigot which protrudes in a  downward fashion. 

 

As an experiment, I inserted a 15 thou washer over the spigot, resting on top of the whiskers. Fixed. A more elegant solution will be knocked up from a sliver of 15 thou plasticard but for now, I have kadees at the right height and operating as per requirements.  

 

Moving on then.................