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All this talk of Panniers is making me want one. Not really appropriate to Edwardian times  but  Chris still has some listed on the Minerva site. I really would like  9681 having driven her from Norchard to Lydney Junction and back she ran quite nicely. Lovely sound as you open her up a little to go back up to Norchard. 

 

Don

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That is really sad to hear Rob. I stopped buying rtr after the Claud came out and have taught myself to solder, build track and get mechanisms working. I've never regretted the change. I have always made buildings. 

 

It does make financial sense too as I spread the cost across a few months for more expensive items. 

 

I increasingly read about new locos at increasing prices with quality control issues so have concentrated on getting what I have working some of which is twenty years old. 

 

Like you I don't have the space for O gauge or to build what I want. 

 

I'm convinced you have the skills and once we are able to mix people can show you if necessary.  I would be happy to help. Once you get started you won't look back. It is quite different though I think more rewarding. 

 

Martyn 

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1 hour ago, mullie said:

I'm convinced you have the skills and once we are able to mix people can show you if necessary.  I would be happy to help. Once you get started you won't look back. It is quite different though I think more rewarding.

I completely agree, so here is another offer of assistance and advice, should you wish to try that course, Rob.

 

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4 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

I completely agree, so here is another offer of assistance and advice, should you wish to try that course, Rob.

 

Great offer CK, and I'm sure the downcast sheep will be pleased with your offer of support (however he wishes to wear it).

 

The one benefit of GWR locos is that the vast majority have no outside valve gear and that does simplify chassis builds. You've shown in your threads that RTR can be given a leg up in quality of running with better chassis. 

 

Don't give up Rob.  

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For those whose main interest is in the building of a layout and stock 0 gauge works well.   I would suggest that you do not need that much space see here  https://ogaugemicro.blogspot.com/p/moxley.html

 

Includes a loco built from card apart from the motor, wheels and bearings and con rod.  And it performs to a standard you would find acceptable.

 

Don

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Rob have you thought about DCC?

 

I know people will swear blue that 'DCC doesn't improve motor performance' but had nothing but issues with a few of my locos and replacing the chip with a high quality Zimo or ESU decoder, fettling with the motor controls and installing a stay alive capacitor they're leaps and bounds better than what they used to be! 

 

People argue at the cost but I suspect it wouldn't cost any more than building new chassis, changing stock or converting to 7mm.

 

Food for thought...

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4 hours ago, LDM34046 said:

Rob have you thought about DCC?

 

I know people will swear blue that 'DCC doesn't improve motor performance' but had nothing but issues with a few of my locos and replacing the chip with a high quality Zimo or ESU decoder, fettling with the motor controls and installing a stay alive capacitor they're leaps and bounds better than what they used to be! 

 

People argue at the cost but I suspect it wouldn't cost any more than building new chassis, changing stock or converting to 7mm.

 

Food for thought...

I've heard this too and have operated a DCC layout, although I have to say that the locos in use were built by a master of his craft and would have run beautifully on DC as well!

 

One thing that Rob might also wish to consider is whether an element of feedback in the DC control might help matters. I have found this to be the case with some locos that didn't want to run as well on a straight Gaugemaster DC supply.

 

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1 hour ago, Captain Kernow said:

I've heard this too and have operated a DCC layout, although I have to say that the locos in use were built by a master of his craft and would have run beautifully on DC as well!


Granted DCC can’t solve miracles but it can definitely iron out a lot of grumpy motors! 

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1 minute ago, LDM34046 said:


Granted DCC can’t solve miracles but it can definitely iron out a lot of grumpy motors! 

I think stuff needs to be mechanically sound to start with but in terms if electrickery DCC does help - I am a fan of stay alives which also improve things...

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1 minute ago, Gilbert said:

I think stuff needs to be mechanically sound to start with but in terms if electrickery DCC does help - I am a fan of stay alives which also improve things...


Agreed you do need a good base to begin with but being able to adjust individual CV’s and change the speed curve means you can tailor the electrical input to favour the motor at low speeds.

 

Stay-Alives are great, highly recommended

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Modern DCC decoder work by Pulse Width Modulation but at high frequency so coreless motors will work fine with them.

One benefit of DCC is the decoder is receiving the full output voltage  and just sends the motor a series of pulses this avoids some of the problems with pick up at low votltage with plain DC.  One can use PWM with DC but you do need to be sure it is a design suitable for coreless motors.

The real benefit of DCC is doing away with sections you can drive or stop a loco anywhere on a DCC layout  no sections switches need to be thrown. Moreover you can drive one loco right up to another till the buffers kiss the two can be independantly controlled even when standing on the same length of track.

 

Those shenanigans with the Pannier remind me of an incident of a friends garden layout. It was an open day and I was running trains round the oval for the visitors. Someone took local control of a section to test his loco stopping the running . However if strayed over the sectioninto a bit I was controlling so I whisker it away and hid it at the back of the station so we could keep trains running.

 

Rob

option 2 would be a worthwhile thing to do but not necessarily a quick fix.

Going 7mm should be because you want to do it not just to overcome loco problems

 

I think it would be worth trying a different controller let me know if you are interested costs could be very reasonable.

 

Don  

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Afternoon all. 

 

Thank you all for your kind suggestions and for the PMs received. I'm most grateful. I shall give matters further thought in due course, as we say. 

 

By way of updates, I would report the following matters.....

 

I have received a full refund for the returned Prairie though I am advised that its runs slowly and without hesitation.......

 

The Pannier is boxed, ready to return to Rails. 

 

I have bought another small prairie a 4575 in lined green. I put in a ridiculous offer with no expectation of winning and received an email telling me I'd won. It looks good, boxed, seemingly little used etc.....time will tell. 

 

In similar circs, I have another new body on the way for a W4.........oops. 

 

I have also secured another WH Thomas private owner wagon to make 2. Nos 119 and 120 were limited edition Bachmann 7 plank wagons from Buffers. The coal merchant operated from Axminster and Lamb Regis.....

 

I am now retiring from e bay for a bit.........

 

 

Oh and I have other news........

 

 

Rob

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By way of an experiment, I have temporarily replaced the Gaugemaster combi which normally powers Bleat Wharf with a seemingly ex- RAF WW2 Minitrol duette type controller. Crucially, it tells all and sundry that it is a feedback controller. 

 

When it is switched on, it hums like a large electricity sub-station. 

 

I have therefore  unpacked and run the sulky Pannier. 

 

It still sounds like a bag of spanners. Both directions. 

 

It does run slightly smoother.............

 

 

But it still sounds like a bag of spanners.........

 

 

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1 hour ago, NHY 581 said:

By way of an experiment, I have temporarily replaced the Gaugemaster combi which normally powers Bleat Wharf with a seemingly ex- RAF WW2 Minitrol duette type controller. Crucially, it tells all and sundry that it is a feedback controller. 

 

When it is switched on, it hums like a large electricity sub-station. 

 

I have therefore  unpacked and run the sulky Pannier. 

 

It still sounds like a bag of spanners. Both directions. 

 

It does run slightly smoother.............

 

 

But it still sounds like a bag of spanners.........

 

 

I do find that feedback gives a louder motor noise.

 

I've also found that my new Gaugemaster feedback hand-held doesn't like my W4 Pecketts (or perhaps the other way round).

 

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34 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

What a lovely little chap he is!

 

How does the Works Forecat feel about his new Assistant?

 

 

Evening CK. 

 

The WFC is a tad non-committal at present. A bit sniffy about the whole thing though being quite decent about it all. Formal introductions have been made albeit quite sparingly at this time. 

 

Master George is behaving quite well though is inclined to be a  little too naughty having had to be told off today, primarily as a result of snacking on a mobile phone charger cable. 

 

 

With regards to the Perennial Pannier Problem, I have reconsidered my decision to return it. 

I like it. My first mistake. It does not run to the required standard. No mistake but I am inclined to try and sort it out. Possible mistake. 

 

The wheel rotation is smoother. No doubt.  The gradual stop isn't and the bag of spanners noise effects remain. 

 

But I am going to have a go at it...................

 

R

 

 

 

 

Edited by NHY 581
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1 hour ago, MrWolf said:

Not a washing machine full of nails then?

 

I used to have an old H&M Duette with feedback control. Never a problem with it, other than sounding like granddad's radio warming up.

One of the two switches on a Duette is for high/low resistance - the former being useful for shunting (sometimes). The other selects full wave or half wave rectification. The latter tends to take recalcitrant locos by the scruff of the neck to even out lumpy running but  the remaining a.c component makes motors growl and get hot.

 

Fine with robust X04 and old HD motors so long as you don't over-use it, but probably not a good idea with modern can types where brushes can't  be replaced and a complete no-no for the coreless sort.

 

John

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I got rid of it a long time ago (20+ years.) when I was told that the new generation of Bachmann locos might be damaged. I had originally retired it because the old Airfix and Mainline locos were a bit sensitive if you had it on the coarse settings.

But it did give things a kick up the backside.

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