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West Riding Terminus- Halifax Powell Street


BurscoughCurves
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Hi folks,

 

Before I can continue with the ground cover at the turntable end of the yard I need to plant a small building- a basic workshop and stores with an attached lamp hut. I started planning the building with a paper mock-up before construction started using typical mounting card frame and slaters plastikard covering (both the interior and exterior). I used 7mm brick as I wanted a more coarse stone building instead of brick- this structure being one of the older buildings dating to LNWR days.   

 

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For the interior of the store room I made some shelving and planted various clutter on them (the white 'angle brackets' have been painted with oily steel paint);

 

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The door was made from balsa with an etched brass latch and notice;

 

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The workshop was then fitted out with a wills kit- one I've had in my detailing draw for years now. Being a manufacturing engineer I love the level of detail on the lathe and pillar drill! All that remains on the interior is to add some tools from a wonderful severn models etched brass kit and a machine operator. 

 

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Next is to add interior lighting, and then start work on the roof. When it has been planted in-situ I will then add the workshop doors (which I have mocked in the images below);

 

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Once the above is complete I should then be able to extend the ground cover and I will then make a start on the bridge diving the layout in two. Lots to do though!

 

Thanks for reading,

Pete

 

Edited for bl**dy typos! 

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Edited by BurscoughCurves
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  • 1 month later...
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A lovely and atmospheric set of shots there. My favourite is the third one, very realistic with the lighting glinting off the rails.

 

Such a shame about the building lights, not because they aren't lit, but more because you know it will eat away at you if you don't try to save the situation. Easy done really, so try not to be too hard on yourself. I'm sure you'll arrive at a beneficial solution. Keep us posted!

 

Thanks for sharing!

Edited by scottystitch
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Hi all,

 

I managed to fix my stupid wiring error! It was bugging me too much (although the lamps themselves don't add too much light) so I tried my fishing for loose wires method behind the building- to no avail. This method would never work because I had completely forgotten to solder any flying leads to the circuit of 3 off LED's and a resistor. I just got away with prising the right hand end of the building away from the wall to create a slight gap behind. I then drilled a hole from the underside of the baseboard and passed two wires into the gap behind. I then soldered crocodile clips to these wires and clipped them to the circuit by holding them in long nose pliers. After a successful test (and a lot of relief!) I pushed the building back into position and as I had sealed it in place with plaster, the join isn't very visible. I may bed this back in place in the future.

 

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There is an LED in the phone box but it needs a lower value resistor as it can barely be seen at the moment! Another task I did over Christmas was to add passengers to my Bachmann Derby lightweight DMU. I should have checked before re-assembly but the passengers all appear to be sitting a little high- their heads are just below the window bars. What do you think? I could cut more away from the passengers (there will only be torso left if I do this) when I come to add destination boards.

 

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A low quality smokey image I quite liked;

 

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Finally a few images of the finished exterior of the workshop;

 

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Thanks all,

Pete

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This is coming on most impressively Pete, and I can tell you one thing for sure. Dave Shakespeare would have loved it!  There are some great atmospheric shots there.

 

Do go for an operating sequence. It adds purpose and interest, and a lot of satisfaction. It also helps when planning any additions to stock, whether locos coaches or wagons.

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Thanks for the positive comments gents.

 

When it comes to Northern grot, you couldn't get any higher praise than from Mr Shakespeare!

 

I will be following your advice on removable train storage trays soon Gilbert. I am planning on extending the FY sidings and making the near side one removable. This will definitely aid the operating sequences.

 

Pete

Edited by BurscoughCurves
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Thanks for the positive comments gents.

 

When it comes to Northern grot, you couldn't get any higher praise than from Mr Shakespeare!

 

I will be following your advice on removable train storage trays soon Gilbert. I am planning on extending the FY sidings and making the near side one removable. This will definitely aid the operating sequences.

 

Pete

 If I can help at all Pete, just ask.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi People,

 

I have a few photos to share- but haven't actually got much modelling to show for it!

 

I added some crew and cab detail to my WD which was a little bare compared to more recent models. I made up a cab floor out of checker plate and also a wooden one from balsa. The checker plate one looked a little coarse so I went with the wood- I couldn't find any images of a WD cab floor. I also added some seats, a hose from 0.8mm wire wrapped in a single strand from mains cable, some more copper pipes from copper wire and a brew pot as per a photo I have in one of my books;

 

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I also had a good clear up and bought a storage unit from Ikea (for about £35). I saw one on another members thread but can't remember whose- sorry but thanks for the inspiration! It has made a lot of difference and I can reference my books much more easily now. I also re-discovered my MGR plate bought at Crewe under all my mess, I will mount it somewhere eventually!

 

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And now to the most frustrating modelling project I have ever started... Signals! I bought x2 Ratio LNWR lower quadrant signal kits to make up some starter signals with smaller arms below for releasing light engines. The main parts went together easily enough- although I find the instructions pretty useless. I bought some micro LED's and have drilled out the lamps to illuminate the signal arms. Drilling through the lenses (I did try cutting the whole lens area out although this was impossible due to the thin flimsy plastic) I filled to hole with glue n'glaze glue which dries clear and coloured them with red and green sharpie pens.

 

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Now for the infuriating bit- the tiny linkages. I intend to use servos to control the signals so I can trim them appropriately (I hope!). The plastic angled cranks were impossible to mount and connect without breaking them so I bought an Alan Gibson etch with ideal etched brass replacements. I opened the holes up on these with a 0.4mm drill and made connecting rods out of a guitar string. Aligning these up takes huge amounts of patience! Some photos of the above;

 

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The linkages for the main signals are at the front of the signal, and I plan on actuating the smaller arms from the rear. I have made a shaft and bush out of copper tubes which mate finely to try to reduce the play. I have connected a small arm to this assembly and glued it into position. More agonizing linkage work to follow... then I need to make a second one.

 

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Thanks for reading,

Pete 

 

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Love that plate Andrew! I would imagine yours has a lot more value than mine- it cost a few pounds from Crewe Herritage Centre but I still really like it!

 

Thanks for the comments though folks.

 

Danstercivicman- I'll have to check my scarm plan but I seem to remember it being somewhere between 2nd & 3rd radius.

 

Pete

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