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Caley Jim
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Roof sections on and their lower edges painted black along with the tops of the gutters.  Bargeboards added and painted and the ventilator fixed in place.

49205125_Goodsshed06.JPG.a274b151b5c49ad22ef628c2b3249d8e.JPG

 

After taking this photo I now see that I will have to remove it and paint the area under it a dark grey as you can see the white styrene through the vents from this low-ish angle.   😒

 

The stair to the office is held in place by a lump of Blu-tac at the moment as I won't fix it until the end to avoid the risk of it being disturbed when working on the model.

 

The next few evenings will be spent on the slates!

 

Jim

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On 07/08/2021 at 20:13, richard i said:

Photos always reveal what you think is not seen.

richard 

1) Take photos of progress to help you see what you have missed; and 

2) Keep quiet about it until rectified! ;)

 

(But thank you for sharing, as this is a useful point.)

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The 'white through the louvres' has been eliminated and roofing work completed.  The stonework has also been given a dust over with my grey/brown powder colour mix.

 

 

1080580225_Goodsshed07.JPG.ec886866df246141172be40b351048c5.JPG

The two little white bits on the cap stones are where they have been nicked to accommodate the downpipes.  Work on the latter has started.

 

Jim

Edited by Caley Jim
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Bedding in now completed and two areas of cobbles created in front of the doors.  The shed is removable, being located over two small blocks of ply glued to the baseboard which are a close fit inside the loading platform.

 

 

107036028_Goodsshed10.JPG.09c9efac2c49ab8cab5d192712bc3828.JPG

While waiting on the surfacing drying, work has started on the weighbridge office.

1689091396_Weighbridgeoffice01.JPG.dda23dc37401e633df226a52d0a0de68.JPG

 

It looks a bit crude in this rather cruel enlargement as it is only 27x23mm in size.

The shell is 20thou styrene with computer printed brick paper, on which the lintels had been superimposed.  How to attach this to the styrene caused me some thought.  Previous buildings on which I've used printed paper surfaces have been in either card, foamboard or laser cut MDF and on these I used Prittstick as recommended by @JohnBS in MRJ.  This has the benefits of not soaking through and damaging the inkjet printed surface (as PVA would) and also giving you a little time for adjustment.  Unfortunately it will only stick to styrene for a short time, which is useful for attaching printed templates for parts to be cut round, but readily peels off after it has dried.  Easitrac glue, while it sticks well to styrene, being PVA based, soaks through the paper in the same way.  The thought occurred to me, however, to try coating the surface of the styrene with Easitrac glue, letting it dry and then attach the paper with Pritt.  Experimenting on some scrap pieces showed that this worked well, allowing enough time for adjustments and sticking firmly, so this is how it was done.

 

The holes in the part forming the gutters are to allow venting of any solvent fumes and the bits on top are to support the hipped roof, the sections for which are in preparation.

 

Jim

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Hi Jim

 

That all looks very good.

 

For gluing paper to styrene, I've had success with solvent adhesive ie MEC - lay the paper over the plastic, use quite a lot of glue and just let it soak through the paper from the front.  Presumably it softens the surface of the styrene sufficient to grab the fibres of the paper.

 

You'd obviously need to double check it had no impact on your printed surface but with my prints from an Epson printer, it seems OK.

 

Best wishes

 

John

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7 hours ago, John Brenchley said:

 

 

For gluing paper to styrene, I've had success with solvent adhesive ie MEC - lay the paper over the plastic, use quite a lot of glue and just let it soak through the paper from the front.  Presumably it softens the surface of the styrene sufficient to grab the fibres of the paper.

 

Just to prove that there is nothing new under the sun, I remember receiving exactly the same advice from George Slater personally some sixty years ago, even though the composition of Mekpak has changed considerably in the intervening period and no longer contains MEK if I remember rightly.

 

Do check that the solvent doesn't affect your print though, inkjet printers weren't around in those days.

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Would an alternative be to print on Matt photo paper (or glossy if Matt varnish applied afterwards), as being thicker and having a printed surface unlike ordinary paper would perhaps resist pva bleed through from the rear?

I hasten to add that I’ve never tried it but thought I’d “put it out there” in the hope that someone may have and is willing to share their experience.

Ian

 

edit:

PS goods shed looks very nice Jim, are the platform openings on the viewing side? Shame if not, but mine is the same on Modbury :huh:

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Thanks @John Brenchleyand @bécasse.  I've done that in the past, but not with printed papers.   I'm currently using DL Limonene as a solvent and it's not as aggressive as some, so needs to be left a little time to take effect.  I also find that it's an advantage to have some pressure applied to the parts being joined to effect a good joint.  Where this hasn't been possible I've had occasions when, even after leaving overnight, the joint has easily come apart.  It has also developed a sticky residue around the neck of the bottle and I was concerned that it might leave that on the paper.   Having said all that, however, when I attached the 'ceiling/gutters' to the walls, after the paper had been fitted, some solvent bled onto the paper, without any detrimental effect.  The technique I've developed is straightforward, gives a little time to make adjustments but gives a secure bond fairly quickly.

 

I got the Limonene thinking that the smell would be less unpleasant than some other solvents, but 'The Authorities' are still not happy with it and I'm required to go through to the garage to use it!:(

 

@Ian Smith, no, the openings are on the operator's side of the shed, which is why I haven't made too much effort with the interior.  Whether the layout will ever appear in public is a moot point at the moment! :dontknow:

 

Jim

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Again, that would mean getting it positioned spot on first time. As the lintels are printed on the sheet I need a wee bit of time to adjust the paper. Also, the print is one piece, wrapping round the whole building (in the case of these small offices) and is scored on the back at the corners. I have marks printed outside the wall area on which I make nicks through and use these as guides to score before I cut it out of the sheet. 

 

Jim 

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6 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

I have marks printed outside the wall area on which I make nicks through and use these as guides to score before I cut it out of the sheet.


I’ve managed this with sticky label wrappers - scoring before cutting for removal from the backing - as a trial for a weighbridge building. Whilst it was reasonably successful it was definitely tricky due to the sizes involved and the wrapper wanting to stick everywhere all at once. I understand your reluctance to accept this as a solution but it might be manageable to do sections of wall between successive down pipes or other features that would adequately disguise the joins. 
 

 

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Thanks for all the advice and suggestions, however, I have to work with the materials i have to hand and the method I've used works for me and gives me the results I'm happy with.

 

I'm aware that often I don't do things by the accepted or recommended methods and sometimes come up with somewhat oddball and eccentric ideas.  Maybe I should just post the modest results of my labours and keep the details to myself.

 

Jim

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Jim,

I don’t think that your methods or ideas are oddball or eccentric.  So long as whatever you do gives you pleasure while you’re doing it and the end results satisfy you then that is all that matters - we engage in a hobby for our own enjoyment primarily, if along the way others find enjoyment, inspiration or any other good feelings too from what you do then so much the better!

 

From a purely personal perspective, I thoroughly enjoy seeing how others (yourself included) achieve their results - I invariably learn something new or different, whether I then go on to try something different is another thing though :D


Even now I regularly delve into the 2mm Archive or early MRJ’s for inspiration - it’s probably just me but I get far more pleasure (and inspiration) from reading about Connerburn, Tumill & Haddon, Chipping Norton, Lambourn, etc (just 2mm mentioned here although other scales inspire too)  articles from the 1980’s than I do from many of the articles from the last 20-30 years.

 

Ian

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The three brick buildings have now all been brought to the same stage, i.e. ready to have the tops of the gutters painted black and wire glued along all the ridges, prior to slating.

 

 1066682754_goodsyard18.JPG.5792fb19053ffc181d21699a71edd7d7.JPG

 

I find hipped roofs a pain to put together.  Fortunately the dodgy joints will be hidden by the flashing and ridging.

 

The weighbridge plate is one of my own etchings blackened with Casey Aluminium Black and then given a gentle rub with a glass fibre brush to give a 'worn sheen' finish to the surface detail.

 

An overall view of the goods yard as things stand.

 

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I envisage the boundary wall running at an angle in line with the rear of the buildings.  This will leave a 'dead' corner behind the weighbridge office.  Thinking of either putting the carters dung heap or a wee lean-to type shed there.

 

I'm in two minds about the crane, whether to put it there or or put a small platform mounted crane on the loading bank.  Scotch derricks were such an iconic part of most goods yards that I would really like to keep it, but is in in an appropriate place?  I can't really see anywhere else to put it.

 

Jim

 

Edited by Caley Jim
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27 minutes ago, Caley Jim said:

 

I find hipped roofs a pain to put together.  Fortunately the dodgy joints will be hidden by the flashing and ridging.

 

Having sworn and cursed on more than a few occasions, I eventually developed a method which is relatively simple and works well.

 

Firstly I create the trapezoidal sides of the roof, with adequate support to ensure that they are stable and at the correct angle, but marginally, say 1mm, under length. Then I create the ends in a slightly thicker material, eg 30 thou if the sides were 20 thou, cutting them marginally oversize to start with and then trimming them until they will just pass into the triangular openings at each end, noting that they will probably end up marginally different sizes and thus need orientation markings. I then drill or punch a few holes in each of these ends. Then I cut two triangular pieces of, say, 20 thou which are perhaps 3 mm wider than the marked ends and weld them to these ends, the holes facilitating a good flow of solvent. When properly dry, these are added to the appropriate ends of the roof using plentiful amounts of solvent. Finally when these joints have dried thoroughly the ridges resulting from the oversize lips can be sanded down and one ends up with a nice stable hipped roof.

 

 

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Thanks @bécasse. I drew the parts out in CAD, printed them, cut out the paper templates, fixed these to the styrene with pritstick and then cut round these. Didn't work out as prefect as I would have liked, but, as I say, the flashing etc will hide the deficiencies.

 

Jim

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  • 2 weeks later...

The roofs of the brick buildings are now slated.1511030785_goodsyard20.JPG.de8cc446aefe16c5118eb5903ea41cf9.JPG

 

Chimneys to finish and downpipes to add along with the open stable doors.

 

Jim

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A little more progress has brought these building to a pretty much finished state.

 

 

1540565061_goodsyard21.JPG.12b054b0e3229ea4948936ad07fc2e60.JPG

I will perhaps add some straw in the open stable and some 'clutter' in the cart shed.  the chimney pots also need a little blackening around their tops.  I plan to put a layer of card on their undersides to lift them a little to allow for the thickness of the ground texturing of the yard.

 

Next up is the sleeper built store.

 

Hope this isn't boring folk.

 

Jim

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  • 2 weeks later...

Slow progress over the last couple of weeks or so, partly because life has got in the way (last weekend theoretically spent in charge of two grandchildren and their cats, but I'm not sure it worked out that way!) and also partly because i am still having problems getting Limonene to bond styrene securely.  Some joints have seemed fine after being left for 10-12 hours, only to fall apart later on.

 

The sleeper built shed is now at the stage of having the roof on ready for the bargeboards and the 'tin' covering.

1139123393_goodsyard22.JPG.2fc6d9d07fc22555a6af3614d1c27ba6.JPG

 

 

This photo also shows the layer of card I've added to the stable block, and the other offices, to allow for the yard ground surfacing.

 

Jim

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