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M.I.B
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Many thanks for buying the tender chassis. I would be very interested to see the final result with the pickups and how you attach the tender to the Hall.

 

Not sure if this is helpful but the hole in the middle of the chassis was designed to assist with painting. It is about the right size to take a disposable wooden skewer making it easier to hold especially if spray painting.

 

Regards

 

Steve

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Thanks for taking the time to make these Steve.

 

I brush painted the chassis - insides of the frames/axle boxes first, whilst holding the unit with my fingers on the outside edges.  The I held it at the rear end (nothing to paint here) and painted the outsides.

 

The hole is a good idea - my spray stand has small crocodile clips on it and these would hold this .  Good design.

 

I will be attaching this with a home made shorter draw bar from flat steel.  Whichever way I go with the chip and wires I don't need the articulated conduction used by Hornby.

 

Great 3d print - thanks once again.

 

Any chance of doing a 9 tank CORDON?  

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No modelling this week - I have either been working from Home or packing the house/readying the site for the impending build.

 

Foundations went in OK and bricks start hitting the deck on April 20th.  Finding suppliers has been tough but plenty of independent still want to trade and using social distancing and online payment they are still operating.  I am going out of my way to thank them when I collect stuff.  

 

One brick supplier from Surrey has agree to go to the extent of his delivery radius and meet me in a car park of a mates pub, which is of course closed.  I will sit there all day waiting for him to cross load 4 pallets of Fletton's finest "Heathers" if it means I get them.

 

I picked up 2000 bricks last week and hand stacked them when I got home.  Good for the 6 pack I'm told!!!  

 

Tomorrow I'm off to collect 30 bags of cement  (:

 

It's been a sad few days as we have said farewell to Pussy Galore, a Goody and Sir Sterling.

 

I hope you are all happy and healthy.

 

 

 

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Lost count of the days and we are now set up for another three weeks of lockdown.  I like working from Home and I am equipped to do so.  I do feel lucky.

 

A bit of modelling this week:  

 

The Collett 6 wheel tender is now devoid of all DCC wiring and boards, 

IMG_2820.JPG.64978ae48e32cc1f7459998a2b171270.JPG

The 8 wheel tender got painted and decals, and coal.  Below is a shot taken before the paint "snagging".   And then I investigated how and where to fit the electronics, whilst accounting for the lack of pickups.

IMG_2824.JPG.f8b9c88208afe7464054edd2fc1f4cc7.JPG

I will use some left over brass from some Modelmaster number plates to make pickups to rub on the backs of the wheels.  And the amount of wires and fittings wedged into one tender.....

IMG_2821.JPG.afd00c9d7dfd050e59862cea38d3c471.JPG

 

The engine body was de-glazed and the splasher and names were removed.  This leaves a tiny slit in the join between the splasher and the foot plates.  This slot filled with paint while I was painting under the boiler and some other areas. This splasher is left a tiny bit thinner than the others, but with the application of matt black paint, this difference is un-noticeable.

 

Hopefully over the weekend I will close the cab window, fit crew and a fall plate, and detail the back head.

 

IMG_2825.JPG.fedae84ecce276492192d633d76842e7.JPGI hope that you are all happy and healthy.

Edited by M.I.B
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Hi Tinker

 

Great idea to add tender pick ups. I find it makes a significant difference.

 

If you are worried about space in the tender for all the wiring  why not eliminate the Plug and socket for the decoder and wire direct to the tender socket. You will have to cut the red and black wires anyway to add the tender pick ups.

 

Cant tell from the photo if everything is colour coded but I would trace anyway.....I have had LH loco pickups attached to red wires from Hornby!

 

My new Zimos have arrived so now the little people are all painted I should have the conversion finished next week.

 

Keep Well

 

Best Wishes

 

john

 

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Thanks John.  I was mulling over the idea to retain the plug so that I alternate how this Hall looks if it can hook up the spare black 4000 Gallon tender I have from the other unnamed Hall.  

 

I would need to then program the spare black tender as a separate loco.  Not a tough ask.

 

Or I could do as you say and hard wire without the plugs etc.....

 

regards,

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No modelling this weekend - too many boxes to pack, and even got as far as removing the floor boards out of the loft.

 

NC has made its way to another temporary home  Whilst I was shifting it I realised that all I need to add are wires for point motors, "two wires" for DCC and some boards.  What you see here is the 98% of the traction, 99% of the rolling stock, all of the track, buildings, cars, trucks, people.....

 

The proposed "Shed 2" project is in amongst all this too - in its own crate.  

IMG_2840.JPG

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I hope that you are all happy and healthy.

 

We are doing a clap for delivery drivers tomorrow - sometime between 1pm and 7pm...........

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On 06/04/2020 at 10:37, 81E said:

 I would be very interested to see the final result with the pickups and how you attach the tender to the Hall.

 

Steve

 

Steve,

 

Apologies for the lack of photos but it's a little dark and shadowy with only a desk lamp for light.

 

Hornby Olton Hall comes with a flat steel drawbar.  I decided to use this as it is a good length - not too close so that I get lock between loco and tender, but close enough to look realistic and cope with 1st radius curves at slow speed (in the yard).

 

You have made the chassis to cope with both the Hornby articulated conductive coupling (open ended dog bone shape) and also the flat steel bar - by using a longer screw up through the front hole in the tender chassis, there is enough "meat" in the cast boss to receive a tiny long self tapper.

 

BUT the draw bar is at a different height above the rails to the bottom of the boss in the tender.  I could either have bent a dog leg into the draw bar, but that would shorten it.  So instead I made up the gap with a small BA nut to act as a fat washer.  This is sandwiched between the top of the draw bar and the boss under the front centre of the tender chassis.   It works well.

 

 

 

 

 

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Good morning all - two months since the last update.  House build is going well, despite Lockdown.  And I have even got a small amount of modelling  done.

 

I have a recent Hornby King James II which was converted to 6022 with a full repaint, and then a series of patch paints on top followed by Dullcote.  Even without an airbrush weather, Edward3 now looks suitably  weary which is correct for the time period - it had done a number of years in unlined livery and was just about to head to Swindon.  Nothing special on the modelling front, and the same "ingredients" as usual from Precision, HMRS, Fox and Modelmaster.  It does need crew, and a batch were selected for painting last night.

 

And in the tradition of Monty Python, here is something completely different:

 

In the process of making up 6951 having its turn with the 8 wheel tender, Olton Hall threw up a 4000 Gallon tender chassis.   Elsewhere, a slightly older Hornby 4000 gallon tender top was homeless.  This also seems to have been in the Harry Potter range due to its coloration inside.  The plan is to make a scenic item for the Shed, with half an eye on it becoming used with a runner at a later date.

 

IMG_3096.jpg.f817cd948d0502afcf8b652af87896de.jpg

 

The molded handrails were carefully shaved off so as not to carve off the bottom molding on the tank.   Markits brass knobs and wire were used, and Stage One is complete.  

 

Livery will be green with "GWR".

 

Stage Two, which may occur tonight, is the removal of the molded coal load.  I will be building an almost empty bunker.  If this does go into service I can always add a little more to show an engine needing coaling.

 

I think I have a coupling somewhere  (Screw link) and that's all that this will need other than transfers and a tyre weight or two inside.

 

In the meantime I hope that you are all happy and healthy, and surviving Lockdown.

Edited by M.I.B
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Very good choice of loco in 6022, a plain green King has been on my wants list for some time, so will be nice to see one.  Though I have a long list of more pressing tasks to complete first.  Look forward to seeing yours finished.

 

 

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I will take a photo of 6022 when it has crew.

 

It's 20.30 now and I still haven't finished laying out bricks for tomorrow - old front door to be bricked up.  So the tender work may not happen......

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I managed a session with the Dremel last night.  I'm fairly proficient with grinders, drills etc on large steel projects, but I'm still getting used to the Dremel.  One tiny slip on a plastic model and it is easily ruined.  I found it easier and safer to lean the Dremel against the bench vice and move the work to meet the tool.  I do have the flexi shaft for this which would alleviate the problem of the unit's weight  accidentally "pushing" into the work.   (Fireman's side tool-bin lid took a nick early on before I switched to this tactic......)

 

I used a thin-disk to remove most of the top and  make 90% of the work to cut out the bunker doors and coal on the footplate.  

IMG_3104.jpg.a31f06567a2ad0dfe78c44cb6c26eb6a.jpg

 

IMG_3105.jpg.0b9cf93fe3c334c9e212da885d208df7.jpg

Then I swapped to a thick grinder disk and got a fair bit  more done.   

 

The final stage was to use a flat file. emery board and a scalpel to trim.  I'm still not happy with the results.  There is a tiny amount of coal left at the top of the inside edges.  Removing it is difficult as the material is already thin, and this is also the area where the tender flares out at the tops of the sides - I think I could easily file through in some points.  I will have a fresh look tonight.   

IMG_3107.jpg.3896408a7e52ed38141ad6d0b1d15131.jpg

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I will need to add some strength across the width:  when I cut away the bunker doors and the coal on the footplate, the front became extremely flimsy.

 

In the meantime, I hope that you are all happy and healthy.

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I had no inclination to do more on the Collett tender or the 8 wheel tender, so I did a few vans....

 

I liked the Wrenn "Standard Fireworks" Iron Mink but would not put up with the chassis, couplings and running.  So I  bought a Dapol Mink which has a body from the same mould!  A quick repaint of the roof, a chassis swap and I get a good running Standard Fireworks Iron Mink.

IMG_3126.jpg.1fd546bcb3f301532105892e42a18878.jpg

The second part of this work was to mount the Dapol "GW" Mink body onto the Wrenn chassis - simple job, and then remove the couplings and coupling mounts.  This van will become a scenic item, so it got a grubby roof, some patch painted panels and panel bottoms, alongside some rust emerging.    

 

The next pair are Bachmann SHOCVANs.  Not a tough modellng task - a roof paint to simulate a build up of grot, and adjustments to the van numbers.  All done in a jiffy.

 

The third SHOCVAN is the Bachmann BR(W) version.  Changes to the decals included new "Common User" decals, some "GW" s and the writing on the doors - all care of HMRS Pressfix.  This had a bit more patch painting than the two GW ones, especially because of the large white stripes on the doors and ends.  The end result is a slightly different SHOCVAN, with different running number and different "return to" details.

 

The final van is a Bachmann 20t TOAD.  Not a tough set of changes, but necessary: a dark grey roof, removal of the "Shrewsbury" branding, and removal of one set of couplings and coupling mounts.  Add a red lensed white lamp and we are in business.....

IMG_3132.jpg.867f4b9c3f29c99848b8ade691531c2e.jpg

 

 

 

IMG_3128.jpg

IMG_3130.jpg

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A productive spell - there is no construction going on this week so no evening tidy-ups to do, no blocks and bricks to shift, so modelling time......

 

Three coal wagons.  RTR.  Two Red box and one Dapol.  Not sure why Hornby and Dapol often bring out a slightly different version of the same model, but this can be a bonus:  by using a fibre glass pen, or a scalpel, perhaps some Scotchbrite pad, fleet numbers can be changed to give two different wagons. 

IMG_3135.jpg.452080e0967ce483e5cb183e893737d6.jpg

Hornby's version is the lighter of the two.  Dapol version came with the moulded coal, which can be reduced in height, by trimming the "legs" underneath.  This then gives a contoured base for some UHU and coal.....

 

As for the distressing - after the number change it is a rub all over with a Scotchbrite pad, followed by some plank replacements.  My particular favourite is Pheonix "Natural Wood", but like my overall painting, I do make up a colour pallette and change it up a bit on different planks. 

IMG_3136.jpg.4efd6a42e6d3e626b66421e2e3e9f69f.jpg

I also used some grey to simulate a primered plank or two, and to prime some of the metalwork on the replacement wagon door.  In reality I would paint the wood first and then do any touching up of the ironwork - trying to be accurate in this area is a little testing.

IMG_3137.jpg.424d3b3c542c5a089d43341c152c2c34.jpg

The Hornby wagons got coal using the "sculptured sponge" method which I am now very taken with.  I think I may have now completed 10 this way.  With about 130 coal wagons left to do, I won't be looking for jobs in winter evenings.....

IMG_3138.jpg.fbc23ac534bfd49b91f5bdd66eb0137c.jpg

Then just the usual blacking of the wheels, and the Hornby "Gregory" had a coupling swap down to the thinner smaller type.

 

After a squirt with the airbrush, I think these will pass muster.

 

Canada Day yesterday, and the anniversary of Mallard's run tomorrow.  I hope that you are all happy and healthy.

 

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I did mention some crew for King Ted 3.  I remembered a set of whitemetal crew purchased at the end of last year, following a post on here to ask who else made crews.  Mine were all looking a little "samey".

 

I bought some plastic ones and these kit form crew from AC Stadden:

IMG_3133.jpg

 

With interchangable arms, which each have an amount of adjustment, these were great VFM.  Each arm has a "ball" which locates into a suitable "socket" on the torso making positioning perfect.  And they don't slide whilst setting either.

 

I have kept the spare arms in case I want to modify some of the Hornby and Dapol crew which I still have left to do.

 

IMG_3134.jpg

 

I am very pleased with the outcome so far - a little filing is needed to re-shape shoulders, in order to get arm position where I wanted.

 

The 6 finished crew don't photograph well "in the flesh" so I will get on and do some painting.......

 

Edited by M.I.B
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So, we left  you in suspense regarding a few items........

 

The "hybrid" scenic (but might run) tender has had the bunker completed to the best of my ability / to the best that the mouldings would allow.  I used thin pasticard and "liquid poly" to bond/melt them all together.  I worked my way from the back to the front, making templates out of Post-It notes before chopping the plasticard.  So the sloped part, the floor, then the flat side sections, and the hardest to do were the vertical sides.  They did take 2 or three Post-Its per side to get right.  IMG_3146.jpg.b9053126fc91af8f78483e7689498a0e.jpg

 

Finally I put some bunker doors back on, made from plasticard and Evergreen strip.

IMG_3147.jpg.4abdc10c961e9be8d7030cac38168c54.jpg

Humbrol matt black and that's where we are so far.  Still to do is add lots of rust to the bunker (coal is very acidic and pouring it in every day, then adding rain would soon see the insides of tender bunkers rusting away merrily.

IMG_3159.jpg.e18acf064e353cc13df9905598b37d7b.jpgIMG_3158.jpg.407bf9d9f826923381313f68097d438f.jpg

Once the rust is added I will add some coal and coal dust remnants to hide some of the joins.  Transfers are from Fox.  Green is late GWR Green from Pheonix.

IMG_3160.jpg.4cfe50cc5fe874e7c5de5a808bef56c8.jpg

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6951, to be joined with the 8 wheel tender took another step in the right direction.  Cab window, which was filled some weeks ago, has been smoothed off, and the odd handrails added.  These rails were done in a different way to my usual:  I drilled the holes, put two knobs on a piece of over-length wire and formed the 90 degree rounded bend.

 

I put a tiny drop of superglue into the hole with a cocktail stick, and fitted the knobs with disregard t the rails.  Once the knobs were set,I adjusted the rails to the correct position and with superglue on a cocktail stick, I just touched the inside hole of the knob/wire join and capiliary action drew the glue in.  

IMG_3155.jpg.7ee2d0d6d41c41f4b3a4c3bfba06d559.jpg

A snip on the outer end of each wire got the length almost right and a tiny file was used to finish them off.

IMG_3162.jpg.1eac93552829d4d5c43e46ace82907fc.jpg

Knobs by Markits - they are probably a tiny scale tad too large, but anything much smaller and I could never fit them or thread the wire.  A quick brush with some Humbrol matt black and we are close to Testors Dullcote.  I will do this after the dots are added to the cab.

IMG_3163.jpg.169863229bff456aa8480a71f10df3c6.jpg

6951 will have a brass fall plate fitted along with crew.  Plate was trimmed last night.  That just leaves, painting the whistles, add the cabside numbers (from Modelmaster) , add reverser rod and cab windows: fit the front two and save the side pair for one of my Granges which doesn't have any for some reason......

 

The filled in cab window is just about visible - after Testors and then airbrushed grot, it will disappear.

 

On the anniversary of 7/7  I hope that you are all happy and healthy.

Edited by M.I.B
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The hybrid Hornby tender received some red oxide rattle can followed by some mat black, and then red oxide from further away, then......

 

The result was pleasing.    Sadly some of the the Fox transfers were drawn off by the masking tape, but this was corrected ten minutes later.

539AB04D-78FA-40EA-A3C7-349E3EAB8724.JPG.8e5fc2e1858fc1868341e145cde299fb.JPG

Dullcote next, but probably not today as it is rainy and damp:   I am  currently spraying/venting/drying outdoors, under a gazebo, and the damp seems to make Testors Dullcote go a little cloudy. 

 

Then a little left over coal dust to hide a join or two and we are done.

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I thought I had a couple of spare sets of brake rodding for Hornby GW   4-6-0s, but it isn't the case.  Peter's Spares are out of stock, so for now I made a set for the tender out of Evergreen rod.    This means that 6951 won't have rodding either.  So the hunt is on for a few sets once more.

 

When I get the Dullcote and coal situation sorted I will post photos.  In the meantime 5 sets of crew await final paint sessions.

 

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On 23/06/2020 at 17:52, The Fatadder said:

Very good choice of loco in 6022, a plain green King has been on my wants list for some time, so will be nice to see one.  Though I have a long list of more pressing tasks to complete first.  Look forward to seeing yours finished.

 

 

IMG_3179.jpg.81bb2404b103e73061b8374060bbcb32.jpg

Ask and I will do my best.  Still needs airbrush weathering and I'm not overly happy about the way the nameplates are sitting, but we are getting there.  this will get quite a heavy weather for a passenger loco:  it is coming close to its major shop and a return to lining. 

IMG_3181.jpg.84324ec1ca3b6243026bf6f6636143df.jpg

This engine only operates right at the start of my time-frame, along with 6951 and the 8 wheel tender.

IMG_3179.jpg.81bb2404b103e73061b8374060bbcb32.jpg

Crewmen from AC Stadden have come out well and nice to have poses different to the Hornby and Dapol figures which I have in abundance.  A few micro touch-ups and they will be ready for close ups.

 

IMG_3180.jpg

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On 06/04/2020 at 10:37, 81E said:

Many thanks for buying the tender chassis. I would be very interested to see the final result with the pickups and how you attach the tender to the Hall.

 

 

Steve, a couple of update pictures.

 

The tender as previously described, will be permanently connected using a steel drawbar and a long thin self tapper up through the front edge of the tender chassis.

IMG_3185.jpg.fbc03bf890b13063a2403065c0d5868d.jpg

6951 has quite a low drawbar compared to the tender so I am using various thickness nuts and washers to ensure that all 4 axles sit on the rails and that the draw bar only has influence in the horizontal plane.  When I started the rear axle was fully off the rails.

IMG_3187.JPG.7393b0ef8fcb9553b0801f10439ed139.JPG

As for the elec-trickery, I extracted the brass wheel rubbing pickups from a recent Hornby tender this week.  I hope to reuse these, one per side on at least 2 axles.  There is enough slack on the Hornby tender/engine socket to allow it to be drawn back under the tender.  Two wires go on either side of the drawbar, held in place with a dod of black-tack.  It is mocked up below:

IMG_3191.jpg.12831de807c7bfb728f6b5ee3f6a92d6.jpg

The 8 wheel chassis is very light so I am employing modern alloy wheel balance weights.  These will lie rubber side up after a bit of Uhu is applied.  The rubber is a good bed to fix the chip and circuit board to with some double sided tape.  Crossed fingers that there is only two wires to solder - one each to the rubbing pickups....   I did use my new iron this week to "de-solder" the pickups and the ends of wires which were attached.  I managed to do that without getting burnt/covered in solder/melting anything, so I'm feeling positive.....

Edited by M.I.B
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3 minutes ago, M.I.B said:


only two wires to solder - one each to he rubbing pickups....   I did use my new iron this week to "de-solder" the pickups and the ends of wires which were attached.  I managed to do that without getting burnt/covered in solder/melting anything, so I'm feeling positive.....


I am impressed

 

Cheers

 

John

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And the final part of the update covers the "scenic" tender.

 

I managed to get Dullcote applied before the rain started again.  Then coal was carefully applied in key areas:  at the bottom of the bunker, and in some of the high level "nooks and crannies" to hide a few plasticard joins.  Some was tiny grains poured onto placed Super-glue, and others were individual lumps glued on piece by piece.IMG_3167.jpg.411c8d22cf703e4a96fa97a090be07f1.jpgIMG_3168.jpg.1a4ceab230ca001d859898da1f891565.jpgIMG_3169.jpg.ee97a14d2b04a4748a370e50dd9c8b51.jpgIMG_3170.jpg.53991d3f959ae546886a63b0e046f003.jpgIMG_3171.jpg.bab384f491c095ccddfdcede69106b0e.jpg

 

I'm fairly pleased with the outcome - certainly a realistic looking item to have sat somewhere on shed.  And when I one day come across that Harry Potter Olton Hall without a tender..........

 

A quick touch up with some matt black where the white Super-glue cyano-bloom  has appeared on the top rear edge coaled area.....

 

On the 10th of July (!!!!! where has the year gone?) I hope that you are all happy and healthy.

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