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Denton Brook 7mm Industrial


Giles
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Ah... 'Sir Tom' etc.....! A very happy coincidence? I think they must have handled some quite large drums there, as their wagons required bars in between, which mine don't (for the diameter) unless there was some other reason requiring separation.

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For the sake of tidiness and continuity, here's the video of the trial set-up of the transfer crane in action (I know most people have seen it on other threads, but this is the layout it is destined for....)

 

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I've been working on one of the other points (which will be ballasted, and are therefore conventionally made with C&L chairs and sleepers).

 

As you may know, I've recently got back into silver-soldering in building 7mm stuff (I've been silversoldering bigger stuff and smaller stuff all my life, but like most people, revert to using soft solder on almost everything model railway simply out of habit!). All the valve gear and slide bar assemblies on the Garratt were silver-soldered, together with all the valve gear rivets - which was soooo much easier than soft soldering..... And so I've been continuing this into the point making as well.

 

The nose of the points is silver soldered, together with the 0.8mm nickel silver bar, which will tie in the wing rails. Apart from being extremely easy to do, the value of silver soldering all these, is that when I come to (soft) solder the wing rails to the bar etc., there is absolutely no risk of anything coming adrift and causing me difficulties.

The silver-solder melts at around 720 degrees C.

 

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Edited by Giles
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Ah... 'Sir Tom' etc.....! A very happy coincidence? I think they must have handled some quite large drums there, as their wagons required bars in between, which mine don't (for the diameter) unless there was some other reason requiring separation.

Can't be 'Sir Tom' or 'Woto', they were both 3'6" gauge when at BICC :D

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Can't be 'Sir Tom' or 'Woto', they were both 3'6" gauge when at BICC :D

No, they were also oil-burners - but then I'm not trying to recreate the BICC! (They had some interesting locos there, and some very pretty well-wagons!)

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Hi Stephen - They're 8' x 2' 10" ( 2 off 4' x 2' 10") - as much as I can possibly store and fit into the car!!!

 

 

Meanwhile, I've built one of the proper two points. The stock rails have a joggle to each of them to take the blade. This was done easily by putting in two bends with pliers, side-by-side (then dressing the top down flat again)

 

IMG_2892_zpsa313e272.jpg

 

 

The blades needed a break to allow them to pivot, as they were too short to rely of simple flexing. I therefore made simple fish-plates from nickel-silver (etch off-cuts) and silver-soldered them to the chaired rail, drilled out a 0.5 hole with the blade placed in the fish plates, and then put some 0.5mm wire through the lot, and put a touch of silver solder on both ends of the wire. This gave me a little movement on the blade, while holding it nicely vertical.

 

IMG_2895_zps34b3934f.jpg

 

 

0.8mm nickel silver wire was silver-soldered to the tip of the blade to engage with the tie bar - which is a piece of 00 copper paxolin sleeper, with two pieces of small diameter tube  soldered to it. Once the blades are in position in the tie-bar, the ends of the 0.8mm NS were bent over at 90 degrees to retain it all, and then trimmed off.

IMG_2888_zps387ed8c1.jpg

 

I know it's not a wonderfully correct scale point, but I think it will read correctly, and mechanically it's OK

Edited by Giles
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And the class 37?

 

Bob

Well, that might rumble in on the main line, from time-to-time - though I dare say I'll have to re-profile the wheels, which will be a nuisance - but we'll see...... (It would be more useful with finer profiles, of course)

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... And I've finished the third (and final) standard Guage point. That might seem like not a lot to everyone else, but it seems to take me forever - so it's a nice hurdle to have jumped. Baseboards next, then some track can go down!

 

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Edited by Giles
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Hi Bob,

 

I get it from Cooksons

http://www.cooksongold.com/category_select.jsp?query=Silver+Solder+Paste+10g+-+Easy%2C+Syringe&queryFromSuggest=true

 

But you can also get in from Amazon if you do a search......

 

Yes - it works very well with brass, nickel-silver, copper, steel etc.. Smear it on where you want it, and away you go (after a clean with emery of glass-fibre brush etc.)

 

You'll find it may change the sequence of your assembly work a bit - but it really does make life easier.

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It's got to be 18 months plus...... Time to warm up your fingers for crane operation as well as lorries, Garratts, and anything else I can organise for you both!

 

(You wouldn't like it too simple....)

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