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DC Kits Class 303/AM3 EMU


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Hi. I've been thinking about buying a DC kits Class 303/AM3 EMU kit to construct. Now as a beginner in the Kit making world of Model Railways, I wondered what best ways to construct the kit for a beginner. I also wondered if anyone who has either built the 303 from DC Kits or anyone that can give advice into building a kit on this scale. 

 

I understand that DC kits do provide a list of required parts and do add up to a quite steep amount, but wondered if the parts listed is enough (especially the wheelsets included). 

 

To add, I have 2 wagon kits, but haven't got around into building them yet, but thought that this might get me back into Kit building, plus to challenge myself as well.

 

(not sure if this topic is in the right place or not)

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Hi. I've been thinking about buying a DC kits Class 303/AM3 EMU kit to construct. Now as a beginner in the Kit making world of Model Railways, I wondered what best ways to construct the kit for a beginner. I also wondered if anyone who has either built the 303 from DC Kits or anyone that can give advice into building a kit on this scale. 

 

I understand that DC kits do provide a list of required parts and do add up to a quite steep amount, but wondered if the parts listed is enough (especially the wheelsets included). 

 

To add, I have 2 wagon kits, but haven't got around into building them yet, but thought that this might get me back into Kit building, plus to challenge myself as well.

 

(not sure if this topic is in the right place or not)

Hi there,

 

My advice would be to build some wagon kits before you have a go at building the CL303.

 

The CL303 from DC Kits is a good model - just not an easy one to assemble and get right without previous experience.

 

Over the years I have built 9 of them, a couple of our Scottish Modellers group have also built them.

 

The big decision you have to make is how you are going to power them as this makes a difference to how you build the power car.

 

Choices are:-

 

Tenshodo SPUD

Will work, may not have enough power if you have inclines on your layout, need to arrange for power pick up from unpowered bogie

 

Black Beetle

Will work, may not have enough power if you have inclines on your layout, need to arrange for power pick up from unpowered bogie

 

Replica power chassis

This is the class act out of these! Has plenty of power, getting hold of one is the pain!

Both bogies powered and pick up power.

Need to stick the underframe gear from the kit to the underside of the chassis - without sticking the chassis screws permanently in place.

 

Bullant power bogie

Works well, plenty of power, good performer.

Need to arrange for power pick up from unpowered bogie.

 

As you can see from the comments - all have pro's and con's - it's up to you!

 

If you had been at Modelrail Scotland today - you would have been able to see one being put together on one of our workbenches.

 

Any queries - Charlie will give you an honest opinion if you ask him!

 

Otherwise - ask away on here!

 

Thanks

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I would agree with all of what Phil has said above. Personally, I'm not a fan of the SPUD motors but I have used all of the methods mentioned above. The Replica chassis represents the best "bang for bucks", is smooth, powerful and DCC-ready. The only downside of that is you cannot fit a full seating unit for the whole coach, whereas the others allow for full seating (Black Beetle and SPUD) or for seating in all bar one small section (Bullant - ideally, fit it in the brake van).

I have bought the Replica chassis from Replica themselves, using the phone, and from Charlie at DC Kits. Both are very helpful and can take credit card payments.

I have now used three of the Replica motorised chassis: one in a DC Kits 4 EPB, and two in Bratchell Models kits for classes 455 and 319. They are well thought out and use plastic bits for most of the areas you are likely to need to glue things to. The dummy side frames allow you to easily glue whatever design of bogie cosmetic frames you need as well.

Black Beetles and Bullants are manufactured locally here in Victoria (Australia) but are easily ordered in the UK through Charlie (Black Beetle) or on the Hollywood Foundry website (Bullant and all the other variations he offers). A nice touch is that Hollywood Foundry's site allows you to see where your order is in the 'stack'. I have used quite a few Black Beetles over the years, plus one Bullant (in a 3H unit from DC Kits). Single Black Beetles struggle a little with a three-car set if there is a gradient but otherwise are very smooth running with adequate speed and power - one BB powers my DC Kits 3R 'Tadpole' unit, and another powers an EFE four-car LT underground set. The latter struggles with four cars but manages better with three, and this will improve when I get around to fitting the Metro Models pin-point bogie frames.

 

Of course, you can use two Black Beetles, as I had to do with all of my white metal kit-built underground sets, but that gets a little expensive, especially when compared to the Replica chassis.

Edited by SRman
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Thanks so far of the replies. Have been thinking about the power source for the 303 (whenever I do purchase one), and been looking at the available power bogies on DC kits, and deciding of which one to go for. As I have never done a kit on this scale before, but have been thinking about it for quite some time in the past, and looking at similar comments and reviews of each one of power bogies etc. And I have concluded on that part of the kit to use the Black Beetle Un/Powered bogies to power the EMU. 

 

Now I also have wondered about what livery/transfers to use for the 303, plus I have wondered about the Cab fronts from DC kits of which are required to the 303, and not sure if they are for the Unrefurbished or Refurbished version, or both.

 

Many thanks again

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Thanks so far of the replies. Have been thinking about the power source for the 303 (whenever I do purchase one), and been looking at the available power bogies on DC kits, and deciding of which one to go for. As I have never done a kit on this scale before, but have been thinking about it for quite some time in the past, and looking at similar comments and reviews of each one of power bogies etc. And I have concluded on that part of the kit to use the Black Beetle Un/Powered bogies to power the EMU. 

 

Now I also have wondered about what livery/transfers to use for the 303, plus I have wondered about the Cab fronts from DC kits of which are required to the 303, and not sure if they are for the Unrefurbished or Refurbished version, or both.

 

Many thanks again

Hi there,

 

As I said - power choice is yours.

 

It is possible to model the CL303 from it's introduction right up to it's withdrawal from the DC Kits offering.

 

Decals are available from various sources to finish it off in whichever livery you choose. You will need to 'Mix and Match' from the various makers ranges though.

 

The kit comes with a cab that can be used for either the original curved windscreen or the modified flat windscreen.

 

The cab as supplied is modelled for the flat windscreen version but you can carve the plastic back to the original curve window profile quite easily as there is a beading line for the window surround to guide you.

 

Glazing the curved profile window is a different thing though - not easy at all.

 

I have had several goes at doing it and given up each time as I was not satisfied with how it looked.

 

Once you do get the kit - feel free to keep us up to date on your progress!

 

 

Thanks

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The power doors are for an unrefurbished 303 the doors on refurbished units were of a different profile.

Also the intermediate ends are for an unrefurbished unit or the first few refurbished units. After the first few units were refurbished the rest had gangway doors fitted this also resulted in moving the jumper cables outwards. The first few refurbished units were then returned to Glasgow works to have gangway doors fitted.

Also note that the kit has the sliding windows the refurbished units were fitted with hopper windows. However there were 3 units that kept their sliding Windows after refurbishment, 303055, 303056, and 303085, so if you want to model one of them it will save a bit of work.

Regarding the front end as Scottish modeller has said the front end can be used to model all variations of the 303 the units as built had the wrap round Windows and a two digit route blind. Later they were fitted with a route blind at the top of the middle window and the two digit blind was replaced by the domino black with white dots. This was stuck on the inside of the perspex.

The wrap round Windows were replaced by flat glass in the early 70s.

On refurbishment the domino route blind on the front was removed and welded over, and two marker lights fitted to the front end. Later the square headlight was added in the early 1990s.

There were a couple of additional front end modifications that only apply to certain units.

303048 when it was "preserved " by scotrail in 1991 had a high intensity headlight fitted inside the middle windscreen, and the route blind at the top of the windscreen removed.

The class 311's had a small plate fitted under the second man's side.

The sandite class 311's had the domino lights removed and welded over and had one marker light and a headlight fitted.

If you want to model a 311 you will need to add a couple of extra grills to the bodyside of the motor coach.

Hope that helps.

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I've just dug out my nearly finished class 303 kit, I say nearly finished its been in white undercoat for nearly two years, a house move and a baby seem to delay things! This is the second I have built, generally the kit goes together really well, once you get over all the bits of plastic thats in them and you follow the instructions its quite suprising how quickly and easily it comes together.

 

One day, it will be painted, but because I have a bit of a Northern Rail obsession just now, that day wont be soon!

post-9046-0-64172000-1424740153_thumb.jpg

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Just a question regarding my topic about the DC Kits 303. I wondered about what suitable type of paints to use to paint the CL303/AM3 kit. 

 

Many thanks of the replies so far.

Hi there,

 

The correct colours of paint are/were available for all liveries that the CL303 has carried.

 

You can use the Halfords white or grey plastic primer from a can - if you choose to.

 

Original Clyde Coast 'Blue Train' livery.

 

This was available but I've not seen any recently - was Precision Paints P145 B.R. Caledonian Blue

 

Glasgow Orange & Black livery.

 

Be aware that the so called 'matched colour' for Glasgow Orange of Halfords Volkeswagen Orange is not a match - It's too light.

 

Correct colour of Orange is P159 Strathclyde P.T.E. Red (Loadhaul Orange)

 

Glasgow black is black - any of the black paints are suitable!

 

BR Blue/grey

 

Plenty of choices available - use your favourite make.

 

Strathclyde Crimson and Cream.

 

P252 Strathclyde P.T.E. Crimson (1999 Livery)

P253 Strathclyde P.T.E. Cream (1999 Livery)

 

The later repaint of a CL303 into Glasgow Blue Train blue appeared to have a different shade than the original - or maybe my eyes saw it as being a different shade due to age?

 

Hope this all helps.....

Edited by Scottish Modeller
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The repaint of 303001 in the 1980s into original blue was a bit too dark. When 303048 was repainted in 1991 a few people commented that it was the wrong shade of blue. However the paint was mixed and matched to an original paint sample. A year later 303060 and 303082 were brought back from storage at Crewe carriage shed to Yoked depot after I discovered that after withdrawal all of Longsight depots class 303 spare parts had been dumped inside them. It was a veritable treasure trove, included in the spare parts were two of the round door open buttons brand new never used, and painted in the original blue. When we held them against the paintwork on 303048 we found them to be an exact match. So I know for sure the blue was the correct shade.

 

Anyway here are the possible livery variations for you.

Caledonian blue (some photos show units with silver roofs others light grey and others black)

Caledonian blue with yellow warning chevrons (experimental livery only carried by one or two units)

Caledonian blue half yellow warning panel. (I have not found any evidence of any with full yellow warning panels but if anyone can prove different I would love to see a photo.)

BR blue half yellow warning panel

BR blue full yellow warning panel

BR blue full yellow warning panel wrapped round to include the cab door.

BR blue grey full yellow warning panel.

BR blue grey full yellow warning panel with black window surrounds

Strathclyde Orange

SPT crimson cream

Greater Manchester Orange

Network south east livery (303399 only)

Railtrack livery 311103 & 311104 only

Blue with full yellow ends (one driving trailer from 303013 used at the metropolitan police training centre at Gravesend. It's a different shade of blue altogether.)

 

In addition there were different logos used on the units at different times for example the greater Glasgow GG, transclyde, Strathclyde transport, SPT, scotrail woosh. And greater Manchester M.

 

Lots of variety especially with the detail alterations listed in my previous post. Best to check photos.

I have to admit I have still to build my kit up. I'm still hoping someone does a ready to run model.

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Here is a link to my class 303 photos hopefully they will give you inspiration or help with details for your model http://darrels.smugmug.com/Trains/Class-303/

 

That is one of the best collections ever, brings back memories of travelling in the guards van central-gilmour st when it was busy. Or knocking on the window to get the driver to lift the blinds when the front bulkhead was still glass.

If I didnt have too many ongoing projects this would have kicked off another

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Just a question about the Class 303 kit from DC Kits. (Well two questions actually) Does the kit require the glue that is listed with the kit, or can you use the revell glue instead. Also, just a thing about the SPUD motor. As I have never powered a kit before, apart from seeing the mass wiring on a RTR loco/Multiple Unit, is the motor without the wiring or with. And is there a slight cheaper way to source some of the parts/paints.  

 

The pics of the link above, is highly appreciated of the decision of the 303's and gives me something to follow with, whenever I do get the kit.

Edited by HornbyA3Fan
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Just a question about the Class 303 kit from DC Kits. (Well two questions actually) Does the kit require the glue that is listed with the kit, or can you use the revell glue instead. Also, just a thing about the SPUD motor. As I have never powered a kit before, apart from seeing the mass wiring on a RTR loco/Multiple Unit, is the motor without the wiring or with. And is there a slight cheaper way to source some of the parts/paints.  

 

The pics of the link above, is highly appreciated of the decision of the 303's and gives me something to follow with, whenever I do get the kit.

Hi all,

 

I've used Carrs Butanone, and/or Original Plasticbond.

 

Both are retail names for varieties of Butanone. 

 

I've also been successful with Pheonix Superweld - needed to use a larger amount to achieve a good bond though.

 

Thanks

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I have a bunch of 305/2 DC Kits to build for my old Liverpool St. Nostalgia Addiction. So I'm somewhat in a similar boat.

 

However I'm designing/manufacturing my own power bogies for many US Interurbans and Trolleys ( but with a variant intended for UK EMUS Also) which are well and steadily under way, even though I have plenty of other things keeping me busy. I hate giving dates, as several serious family issues have come up so much recently,  but if nothing else goes wrong at home, it looks like these are going to be ready by the Summer.

 

 

Progress on my new Amfleet/BART/DC Metro Truck design - USA ... thread has last month's status, focused initially on the USA Amfleet/BART and DC Metro models, but doesn't mention that my own gearbox first samples will arrive in about two weeks _AND_ I have a BR MK1 sized unit prototype in house that I am also testing.
 
Andy
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Just a question about the Class 303 kit from DC Kits. (Well two questions actually) Does the kit require the glue that is listed with the kit, or can you use the revell glue instead. Also, just a thing about the SPUD motor. As I have never powered a kit before, apart from seeing the mass wiring on a RTR loco/Multiple Unit, is the motor without the wiring or with. And is there a slight cheaper way to source some of the parts/paints.  

 

The pics of the link above, is highly appreciated of the decision of the 303's and gives me something to follow with, whenever I do get the kit.

I'm building a 2HAP DC kit . With EMA plastic weld from my local model shop. Or Slaters do the same . The spud motor come's ready to fit with no wiring if you run on DC.

Edited by crompton 33
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The repaint of 303001 in the 1980s into original blue was a bit too dark. When 303048 was repainted in 1991 a few people commented that it was the wrong shade of blue. However the paint was mixed and matched to an original paint sample. A year later 303060 and 303082 were brought back from storage at Crewe carriage shed to Yoked depot after I discovered that after withdrawal all of Longsight depots class 303 spare parts had been dumped inside them. It was a veritable treasure trove, included in the spare parts were two of the round door open buttons brand new never used, and painted in the original blue. When we held them against the paintwork on 303048 we found them to be an exact match. So I know for sure the blue was the correct shade.

Anyway here are the possible livery variations for you.
Caledonian blue (some photos show units with silver roofs others light grey and others black)
Caledonian blue with yellow warning chevrons (experimental livery only carried by one or two units)
Caledonian blue half yellow warning panel. (I have not found any evidence of any with full yellow warning panels but if anyone can prove different I would love to see a photo.)
BR blue half yellow warning panel
BR blue full yellow warning panel
BR blue full yellow warning panel wrapped round to include the cab door.
BR blue grey full yellow warning panel.
BR blue grey full yellow warning panel with black window surrounds
Strathclyde Orange
SPT crimson cream
Greater Manchester Orange
Network south east livery (303399 only)
Railtrack livery 311103 & 311104 only
Blue with full yellow ends (one driving trailer from 303013 used at the metropolitan police training centre at Gravesend. It's a different shade of blue altogether.)

In addition there were different logos used on the units at different times for example the greater Glasgow GG, transclyde, Strathclyde transport, SPT, scotrail woosh. And greater Manchester M.

Lots of variety especially with the detail alterations listed in my previous post. Best to check photos.
I have to admit I have still to build my kit up. I'm still hoping someone does a ready to run model.

 

Just to add to the above, there was a period in the early 1960s when three units ran with experimental warning panels, one had a white panel, one was yellow and one had the yellow/black chevrons.

 

post-188-0-60514200-1425227950.jpg

 

There was also differences in the unit number, some units gained unit numbers before warning panels and had the unit number in white on the blue, others had the warning panels without initially getting a unit number.

One other unique logo, applied to the first unit in Blue/Grey livery was the "Clyderail" branding which was later dropped in favour of Transclyde, not sure what the unit number was though.

 

Jim

 

 

 

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I thought I would bump my topic regarding the Class 303 from DC Kits after deciding to restart my interest into getting the kit (If still available that is?) after about 6 months hiatus, and a few more ideas that since then, has popped in my head about what to go for, in terms of the number of a refurbished SPT 303 up to 2002, the type of suitable window/door profile etc, and to see how easy it is to reproduce the 303's in the refurbished variation from the mid to late 80's to late 2002. Especially since researching more on the web for pics regarding the refurbished units. 

 

If anyone on here can assist me of the door's profile etc, I would be much appreciated of any help regarding as above.

Edited by HornbyA3Fan
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I thought I would bump my topic regarding the Class 303 from DC Kits after deciding to restart my interest into getting the kit (If still available that is?) after about 6 months hiatus, and a few more ideas that since then, has popped in my head about what to go for, in terms of the number of a refurbished SPT 303 up to 2002, the type of suitable window/door profile etc, and to see how easy it is to reproduce the 303's in the refurbished variation from the mid to late 80's to late 2002. Especially since researching more on the web for pics regarding the refurbished units. 

 

If anyone on here can assist me of the door's profile etc, I would be much appreciated of any help regarding as above.

 

You may have difficulty getting the kits from Charlie (DC Kits) at the present time. He had a major fire a while back which means most of the kit stuff is in storage and inaccessible. I would suggest phoning him before placing any on-line orders.

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You may have difficulty getting the kits from Charlie (DC Kits) at the present time. He had a major fire a while back which means most of the kit stuff is in storage and inaccessible. I would suggest phoning him before placing any on-line orders.

Thanks SRman and others with the recent replies so far. It seems, of I which I understand the situation, that I might shelf this project for some time after contacting Charlie recently. 

Edited by HornbyA3Fan
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Charlie (DC Kits) Will be shering a stand with AJAY kits at Warley on the 28/29 of November.

Charlie has his own stand at Warley including real track DMUs. But you need to ring him to see if he can pull together a 303 kit.

What kits will be available from Charlie's stand but are not listed in the Warley trade guide.

Edited by Barry O
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