Johnfromoz Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 and the real thing Looks to me that the prototype window level is somewhere between the Bachmann and Heljan renditions (albeit closer to the Bachmann effort) Definately not a dealbreaker for me. It is cruelly exposed by the TTG livery line, but I doubt I will even notice it on my green version. 100-036-37274.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltic17 Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 and the real thing 100-036-37274.jpg The windows are a bit low as you note and in particular it is highlighted in this livery - I don't recall anyone noticing this on the previous split box 37 which was only produced in BRGreen & BR Blue only. This new 37 is the previous class 37 bodyshell which was developed for the split box version a number of years ago brought into line for a centre headcode version. Of course you could cut the bodyside out around the windows move them up, filler and repaint etc but not many would want to do that with a £500 or so loco - it depends how much it bothers you as to how far you go - not easy though. It is a shame but Heljan have a habit of doing things like this - on the O guage Deltic the bodyside grilles on the side of the nose are too low which in particular bought about a problem when in green livery as to the positioning of the lighter green band around the loco. On my Blue version though it is not too noticeable and how far do you go trying to correct things such as this....each to their own I suppose..... On the other issue with apparently screws not coming out too well it appears when removing the body.....how do they manage to do this???? Not good! I bet any companies say fitting sound as a batch are having great fun removing all of the bodies! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnfromoz Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 A closer examination of the Heljan side profile suggests to me that most of the side detail has the correct relationship with each other - the windows are slightly lower possibly due to too flat a curvature on the cantrail grills. The plain liveries nullify the error somewhat, or at least makes it less obvious. With regard to the body screw issues, anyone finding an interim solution to releasing them other than drilling them out? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdseyecircus Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 For those installing sound who's is best suited to these 37s? Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 I could be wrong but there are many bits on the Heljan class 37 that have a striking similarity to the 2nd release of Bachmann class 37's in 4mm (the first batch of skirted class 37's) and the nose grilles in particular look "chunky". If I fall to the lure of O gauge I think JLTRT will be getting my money not Heljan I am afraid. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted March 4, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) Of course you could cut the bodyside out around the windows move them up, filler and repaint etc but not many would want to do that with a £500 or so loco Anyone tempted might want to check Brian Daniels' thread in kitbuilding/scratchbuilding where he has moved the side windows on a Heljan 26 to 27 conversion - an aftermarket 37 etch would help! Edited March 4, 2017 by Hal Nail Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class27 Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 One quick question. When Researching for a prototype 37. The BR database and the 37 Loco Group show 37 153 as being at Inverness in 1978. This is fine for my time period, but as usual when searching, the loco seems to have been camera shy at this time. Can anyone advise on the suitability of this loco against the Heljan model. I don't want to make any obvious mistakes. hope someone out there can help! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnfromoz Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Anyone tempted might want to check Brian Daniels' thread in kitbuilding/scratchbuilding where he has moved the side windows on a Heljan 26 to 27 conversion - an aftermarket 37 etch would help! Good luck to anyone trying to move the 37's windows! Examine the whole bodyside first - the windows share a correct relationship with many other grills and features. The eye is drawn to the fact that they are a tad low through comparison with the obvious datum point; the cab door windows. But perhaps it is the cab door windows that are in error? I don't know. As is often the case with innaccuracies in our scaled down versions, the solution is not as straghtforward as appears at first glance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltic17 Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 One quick question. When Researching for a prototype 37. The BR database and the 37 Loco Group show 37 153 as being at Inverness in 1978. This is fine for my time period, but as usual when searching, the loco seems to have been camera shy at this time. Can anyone advise on the suitability of this loco against the Heljan model. I don't want to make any obvious mistakes. hope someone out there can help! Quite possibly - my 1979 Ian Allan 'Locoshed' shows 37153 as allocated to Eastfield (as Inverness didn't have any 37's allocated at that time) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewey13 Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 Hi Has anyone had there sound version from Tower Models yet?. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold uk_pm Posted March 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2017 The arrival of these models seems to have passed with barely a whisper. I don't have anything to add to the debate about their shape, or integrity as a reproduction of the prototype. Nonetheless, I find the skills of some of the modellers on here an inspiration, and I love seeing pictures of their efforts. I don't regard my efforts as falling within the "inspirational" category, but I hope these pics might show what is on offer, and what can be done with a few hours over the weekend (the installation of DCC sound taking as long as the changes I have made to the off-the-shelf model). I also have a large logo machine, but more extensive modelling is required before that can be allowed out on the layout. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnfromoz Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I agree, these new versions are, overall, fine models. My green FYE is now running as Canton's 37230 in the mid-70s but awaits some weathering. As has been noted here, the side windows are a smidgeon low compared to the prototype, but not to any noticable extent. This is my first big HJ diesel and the more I examine it the more I love it, particularly the way it sits on its bogies in line with the real thing, a feat not achieved by any other cl 37 in any scale! The only downside is its less than user friendly DCC option. I am dreading my forthcoming installation of sound. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I agree, these new versions are, overall, fine models. My green FYE is now running as Canton's 37230 in the mid-70s but awaits some weathering. As has been noted here, the side windows are a smidgeon low compared to the prototype, but not to any noticable extent. This is my first big HJ diesel and the more I examine it the more I love it, particularly the way it sits on its bogies in line with the real thing, a feat not achieved by any other cl 37 in any scale! The only downside is its less than user friendly DCC option. I am dreading my forthcoming installation of sound. John Hi John No need to fear the DCC installation. I fitted an ESU Loksound 4.0 L with its breakout board, This took a couple of hours I guess but simple enough really and now I have a plug and play decoder, which I really like. Heljan could have helped of course with the colour coding for the wires, red and black only I'm afraid so you need to sort out what wire does what first and the length of wires too, it's annoying when they are just a few mm short to connect up. Finding a good speaker too took a little while, in the end I opted for a round one in one of the fuel tanks but there's room for two if you wish. Norman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold uk_pm Posted March 20, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2017 Hi John No need to fear the DCC installation. I fitted an ESU Loksound 4.0 L with its breakout board, This took a couple of hours I guess but simple enough really and now I have a plug and play decoder, which I really like. Heljan could have helped of course with the colour coding for the wires, red and black only I'm afraid so you need to sort out what wire does what first and the length of wires too, it's annoying when they are just a few mm short to connect up. Finding a good speaker too took a little while, in the end I opted for a round one in one of the fuel tanks but there's room for two if you wish. Norman I absolutely agree. There is nothing complex about sound-fitting a Heljan loco. It just requires a bit of concentration and a good cup of coffee! I prefer the Loksound 4XL which, in my 37s, sits in the space underneath the original Heljan circuit board. There is a single small speaker in the fuel tanks, and a huge speaker in the body (that speaker requires the removal of one set of the metal legs which originally supported the circuit board. Then the only complexity is the lights. I have directional head code lights, but the tail lights, and the cab lights (which I fit) are all wired for separate operation. It looks a bit intimidating, but is simple if it is taken a circuit at a time. And the result is terrific (I think). PMs advice; take a deep breath, and enjoy! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnfromoz Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I absolutely agree. There is nothing complex about sound-fitting a Heljan loco. It just requires a bit of concentration and a good cup of coffee! I prefer the Loksound 4XL which, in my 37s, sits in the space underneath the original Heljan circuit board. There is a single small speaker in the fuel tanks, and a huge speaker in the body (that speaker requires the removal of one set of the metal legs which originally supported the circuit board. Then the only complexity is the lights. I have directional head code lights, but the tail lights, and the cab lights (which I fit) are all wired for separate operation. It looks a bit intimidating, but is simple if it is taken a circuit at a time. And the result is terrific (I think). PMs advice; take a deep breath, and enjoy! Thanks PM. Am currently weighing up buying the V4L or the XL, which appears to be a dearer option but I like the idea of the screw terminals rather than soldering. With using the XL are their any resistor issues/risks with blowing the lights? I am looking at simple directional lights/headcode on one function. Thanks for any advice on the XL John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold uk_pm Posted March 20, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2017 (edited) Thanks PM. Am currently weighing up buying the V4L or the XL, which appears to be a dearer option but I like the idea of the screw terminals rather than soldering. With using the XL are their any resistor issues/risks with blowing the lights? I am looking at simple directional lights/headcode on one function. Thanks for any advice on the XL John Hi John I have tried both the L and XL and firmly prefer the XL. They are different dimensions, but the L actually occupies quite a lot of space (it is much deeper because of its "plug and play" architecture). Neither am I convinced that "plug and play" is, in fact, much use (although I accept that it reduces the hassle if a re-blow is ever sought). As for your question about resistors, the honest answer is I am not sure. I took no chances and fitted resistors - which resulted in a little more soldering - but protects the LEDs from risk. I also find that using the various CVs to dim the lights can produce a rather unrealistic flickering which is not present with higher CVs and resistance. Hope this helps. Peter PS: Whichever decoder you use, don't forget to ensure that it is protected from shorting out against the chassis. Mine are protected (and secured in place) by those rather satisfying sellotape double-sided pads. Edited March 20, 2017 by uk_pm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Hi John I have tried both the L and XL and firmly prefer the XL. They are different dimensions, but the L actually occupies quite a lot of space (it is much deeper because of its "plug and play" architecture). Neither am I convinced that "plug and play" is, in fact, much use (although I accept that it reduces the hassle if a re-blow is ever sought). As for your question about resistors, the honest answer is I am not sure. I took no chances and fitted resistors - which resulted in a little more soldering - but protects the LEDs from risk. I also find that using the various CVs to dim the lights can produce a rather unrealistic flickering which is not present with higher CVs and resistance. Hope this helps. Peter PS: Whichever decoder you use, don't forget to ensure that it is protected from shorting out against the chassis. Mine are protected (and secured in place) by those rather satisfying sellotape double-sided pads. For me the XL is an overkill the L has been introduced specifically for O gauge and it's much easier on the pocket. I think I prefer the soldered connection on to the breakout board the installation is very neat and well engineered. Size is not an issue both the L and XL will fit in the Heljan 37. The Heljan light boards incorporate the necessary resistors so there is no need for additional resistors. With the ESU dimming you can select either incandescent or LED and I do not detect any flicker from the LEDs even with the CV turned down really low (5) Norman 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnfromoz Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Hi Norman, Does the L and its adaptor board 'plug in' to the Heljan pcb, or do you connect it by wire? Cheers John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Hi Norman, Does the L and its adaptor board 'plug in' to the Heljan pcb, or do you connect it by wire? Cheers John Hello John Heljan use plugs on the wires and sockets on their board. So you need to cut the plugs off and remove the Heljan board in order to solder the wires to the ESU breakout board. Norman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard carr Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 If you really want to save some money on a decoder then remove one of the motors by loosening the screws on the side of the bogie and pull it out. Then you can safely fit a loksound or zimo decoder that costs less than £100. The loco will still pull a 10 coach train and draws about 800 mA at full speed. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewey13 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Isn't it time that Heljan offer a Dcc ready or dcc fitted option for those of us that what forever reason are unable do what needs to be done. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Duncan, I think Heljan would see that as a bit revolutionary It's only 2017 you know LOL Norman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Isn't it time that Heljan offer a Dcc ready or dcc fitted option for those of us that what forever reason are unable do what needs to be done. Duncan Steady on!! They're bl**dy expensive enough as it is!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delticfan Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Isn't it time that Heljan offer a Dcc ready or dcc fitted option for those of us that what forever reason are unable do what needs to be done. Duncan Steady on! The RMWeb Police will lock the thread for wishlisting if you carry on asking for things like that - lol! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold uk_pm Posted March 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 22, 2017 (edited) On the basis that actions are louder than words... (the sound decoder is from Southwest Digital) Edited March 22, 2017 by uk_pm 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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