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Finney A3 - Knight of the Thistle


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Topic Hijack warning & memory failure

 

Over recent months I have been following this and several similar topics on both new and old RM Web. All of them I have found interesting and inspirational and I thought I was noting snippets of info away for later use. In one of the workshops there was a discussion about straight springy piano wire and where to get it. That's handy to know I thought.

 

Apparently the memory isn't what it used to be! Now I want some I can't find the reference to sources.

 

Sorry for hijacking here but I figured the same people here will have read the reference or know the answer and can point me in the right direction.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

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Topic Hijack warning & memory failure

 

Over recent months I have been following this and several similar topics on both new and old RM Web. All of them I have found interesting and inspirational and I thought I was noting snippets of info away for later use. In one of the workshops there was a discussion about straight springy piano wire and where to get it. That's handy to know I thought.

 

Apparently the memory isn't what it used to be! Now I want some I can't find the reference to sources.

 

Sorry for hijacking here but I figured the same people here will have read the reference or know the answer and can point me in the right direction.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

 

Paul,

 

I hadn't thought of piano wire for the contacts which would I'm sure be an excellent alternative to my brass wire. Although I haven't seen it mentioned in the thread, I know you can buy it in a wide variety of SWG sizes from almost every reputable aeromodelling model shop in the country. My other passion is R/C aircraft and I use it regularly for pushrods, wing bracing etc (although not sure how small a diameter they do).

 

Nigel

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  • 2 months later...

For anyone still watching the thread, I haven't given up on the build but a new job and move forced me to pack away the kit for a few weeks. Will start on the lubricators and detailed pipework this weekend. Anyone out there also building this kit that's overtaken my slow build an finished? Post some photos!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got a few moments to finish the lubricators and decide how to join the footplate to the smokebox/boiler assembly. After several abortive tries, I decided to insert a brass plate across the smokebox saddle with 2 nuts located on the back. Then made use of the forward footplate-chassis cross bearer and drilled for 2 x 8 BA bolts. Works very well. The join is invisible when viewed from above (see final photos below).

 

Pictures below should highlight progress. Hand rails next and then attach cab to boiler.

post-7311-12697258858_thumb.jpgpost-7311-12697258922_thumb.jpgpost-7311-126972581179_thumb.jpgpost-7311-126972581891_thumb.jpgpost-7311-126972582433_thumb.jpg

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Hello Nigel

 

Glad to see you back with us, I have missed seeing your regular updates on the build.

 

You have certainly made a good job of the lubricators, just how many drills did you break?

 

I have been working on Spearmint today and would you believe I have been having the same thoughts on how to fix the boiler to the footplate and came up with exactly the same method as you!

 

I shall hopefully update my thread tomorrow as long as I have the energy, (early Grand Prix to watch tomorrow morning)

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Usual slow progress this evening adding the hand rail knobs and the ejector pipe. Having made the right angle bend for the forward joint in the ejector pipe, I drilled out a nut to complete the bracket scale look. However, it looked so oversize that I removed it again and replaced it with a piece of brass strip wrapped around the pipe. Looks much more scale. PS. Anyone interested in this thread should view SPEARMINT by Christian. He has got this far in only a few months!

 

 

post-7311-126998112383_thumb.jpgpost-7311-12699811327_thumb.jpgpost-7311-126998114128_thumb.jpgpost-7311-126998115076_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Nigel,

 

I wish to ask you a question about the motion work and I have mislaid your e-mail address... and the PM facility seems to be non-functioning at the moment. If you have retained my e-mail address from our last exchange then please send me a mail so that I can post the question.

 

regards and thank you, Graham Beare

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Having soldered the brass forward relief valve (I think that's what it is?) and its support plate behind the chimney, I took the plunge and experimented with white metal soldering the large casting to the smokebox et voila - it didn't melt!!!! Only one more to do on the other side and then the double chimney itself (also white metal).

 

post-7311-127067997934_thumb.jpg

 

 

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I to have to agree such clean and exelent work, i am currently building the hatchette part work but building as an A3 so this thead is invaluable source for reference for me. Keep up the good work.

Dave

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Hi All,

 

I knew it was all going too smoothly! I managed to solder the dome on without any problem and then spent considerable time cleaning up the work. Having finished, I placed the boiler on the chassis to admire my work only to realise that the dome seemed to be sloping forward slightly! I hadn't noticed that the casting is deliberately angled to take account of the fact that the dome sits half on the tapered section of boiler and part on the horizontal section. So there were 2 ways it could be attached - the right way and the wrong way and I managed to fit it the wrong way, having dry fitted it first the right way round.

 

I have practised some new swear words this morning and am now faced with either leaving it or trying to remove the casting without damaging it or melting it. I know that I won't be able to look at it without seeing the error staring back at me and so I will take the plunge later. I do have the spare "banjo" dome if it all goes horribly wrong although Knight of Thistle photos in its latter days show it peculiarly with the double chimney, circular dome and smoke deflectors. I have photos before the fitting of the deflectors, where it has a single chimney and banjo dome. The circular dome seems to have been retro-fitted around 1960. Why? If anyone knows I would be happy to hear as I thought the later boilers all had banjo domes. Certainly the rest of the class seem to have done away with circular domes by the time deflectos and double chimneys were fitted. Mine may yet need the banjo dome and if so may also need a name change!

 

Nigel

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Oh Dear! Nigel, and it was all going so well. Things like this are reallly enough to ruin your day, I should know as I have done simular things in the past.

 

You really must bite the bullet and remove the dome if it has been fitted incorrectly, like you say, you will forever know that it's wrong.

 

A little gentle heat from your flame should be enough to knock the dome off without any damage.

 

Good Luck anyway.

 

My day has been ruined by the loss of one of the cast sand box covers, I cut it off the spruce and it dropped to the floor, several hours later and I still cannot find it!

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Hi All,

 

Fixed it!!! Just needs a little cleaning up with the fibre glass pencil and will be a s good as new!

 

Christian, Glad to see I'm not the only one who chases parts round the kitchen floor. I sometimes cut pieces off the fret over a washing up bowl and they never depart stage left - until the next time I forget and cut them whilst standing in the centre of the room and hear the distant metallic sound of them hitting the floor....somewhere.

 

Already thinking of next loco kit - although still to build the tender. I have always wanted to build a Britannia as my all time favourite loco but I don't fancy the DJH kit with its one piece white metal boiler, smokebox, firebos combo. Seems like somebody has already built half of it for you! I know Acorn/Jim Harris used to do one of which DIKITRIKI built an excellent example. anybody know if its still on the market?

 

Nigel

 

post-7311-127093522305_thumb.jpgpost-7311-127093526606_thumb.jpg

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Hi All,

 

I placed the boiler on the chassis to admire my work only to realise that the dome seemed to be sloping forward slightly! I hadn't noticed that the casting is deliberately angled to take account of the fact that the dome sits half on the tapered section of boiler and part on the horizontal section. So there were 2 ways it could be attached - the right way and the wrong way and I managed to fit it the wrong way, having dry fitted it first the right way round.

 

I have practised some new swear words this morning and am now faced with either leaving it or trying to remove the casting without damaging it or melting it.

Nigel

 

To remove the dome put the kettle on with a full tank, then when it has boiled slowly pore it over the dome and boiler and with some luck the dome will come off.

 

HTH

OzzyO.

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To remove the dome put the kettle on with a full tank, then when it has boiled slowly pore it over the dome and boiler and with some luck the dome will come off.

 

HTH

OzzyO.

 

OzzyO

 

Thanks for the tip. I managed to get the dome off by judicious use of the microflme torch but will remember the boiling water suggestion. Never thought of that.

 

Nigel

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OzzyO

 

Thanks for the tip. I managed to get the dome off by judicious use of the microflme torch but will remember the boiling water suggestion. Never thought of that.

 

Nigel

 

 

It will work with 70 deg solder, and it can work with superglue, not so sure about epoxy but a good paint stripper (Nitromors) will work.

 

HTH

OzzyO.

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Already thinking of next loco kit - although still to build the tender. I have always wanted to build a Britannia as my all time favourite loco but I don't fancy the DJH kit with its one piece white metal boiler, smokebox, firebos combo. Seems like somebody has already built half of it for you! I know Acorn/Jim Harris used to do one of which DIKITRIKI built an excellent example. anybody know if its still on the market?

 

 

I tried without success to track down Jim's Britannia a few weeks ago and was told that he has retired to Spain and it is no longer in production.

 

However,a growing range of etched 7mm BR Standards is now being produced by David Ennis (sevenmodels@live.co.uk).

 

Don't think he has a website as yet, but he e-mailed some pics of a 9F and has a 7 planned later this year.

 

Hope this is of some use.

 

Robin

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Already thinking of next loco kit - although still to build the tender. I have always wanted to build a Britannia as my all time favourite loco but I don't fancy the DJH kit with its one piece white metal boiler, smokebox, firebos combo. Seems like somebody has already built half of it for you! I know Acorn/Jim Harris used to do one of which DIKITRIKI built an excellent example. anybody know if its still on the market?

 

Nigel

 

post-7311-127093522305_thumb.jpgpost-7311-127093526606_thumb.jpg

 

 

Hi Nigel

 

I'm pleased to see the continuing great work on the A3. I started the testing process on mine on my layout yesterday. I have minor adjustments to make but it had 8 on for 20 minutes or so and ran very smoothly.

 

In response to your question on the Brit, the Jim Harris kit is still available from Acme.

http://www.acmemodels.co.uk/OGCatBRIT.htm

I would not recommend this kit to anyone other than an experienced builder (and given your work on the A3, you're in this category) as it is a somewhat challenging kit.

If I was doing another, I would in fact start with the DJH one, and add after-market components as necessary. Funnily enough, I have in the last fortnight acquired the remaining components I need to finish my Brit so it might appear back on the workbench shortly. You mention the one piece head start. Would that preclude you from doing (say) a Finney A4 or Duchess? There's still enough to get your teeth into!

 

If you want a cracking BR standard kit (not a Brit, I know) MOK are bringing out a 9F sometime 'shortly' and that will be special.

 

Regards

 

Richard

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Hi, I have recently acquired a Bachmann A3 (7mm) and need the following. Safety valves, whistle and cylinder drain cocks. At present it is single chimney, can't decide whether to fit a double or not but it would be nice to know where to source one. Anyone offer a suggestion for a supplier of these items?

Maybe one day I will be able to tackle a Finney kit, in the meantime I'll just watch the expert!

B

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