hayfield Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 I bought this Dean goods some time(years) ago which is very much worse for wear, over time I have picked up spares for the body with various purchases. On the plus side it has the older Mk2 motor and Romford wheels even if one set are Mazac In a sad state, glue coming apart Missing bits But the basics are there and not too damaged Now in the garage in a caustic soda mix, which hopefully will remove the glue and most of the paint The Dean Goods was my first K's kit purchase in the late 60's, ordered at the local taylors (sold s/h trains and had an account with W&H, Rail Mail took the business over) in Vicarage Road Watford through W&H Models New Cavendish Street. K's were still in Tubbs Road then. Anyway I will let the caustic soda do its job for a few days 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skaran Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 I'll be following this. I think a lot of people would have an old Dean Goods, I've got two though one lost its tender years ago. So will be looking to see what you do with yours. I've got a replacement Comet chassis - also obtained some years ago waiting for that day... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 My brother, Nick, had one of those - acquired around 1964 - if I remember. I was beautifully painted and a revelation to the young me at the time. Unfortunately he struggled with the chassis - which made it run like a crab...... Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 I'll be following this. I think a lot of people would have an old Dean Goods, I've got two though one lost its tender years ago. So will be looking to see what you do with yours. I've got a replacement Comet chassis - also obtained some years ago waiting for that day... The tenders are quite easy to get hold of as there are plenty that come up on Ebay, failing that perhaps a SEF tender may suffice. The Comet chassis is top class and will be a great improvemeny My brother, Nick, had one of those - acquired around 1964 - if I remember. I was beautifully painted and a revelation to the young me at the time. Unfortunately he struggled with the chassis - which made it run like a crab...... Best, Pete. In theory the chassis should have been bullet proof, but the earlier ones (with the better wheels) had the axle holes stamped out causing the bottom of the chassis to splay out. The latter ones had the holes drilled out but had the rubbish plastic centred wheels that were so easy to fit out of square Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 Another canditate for the caustic soda tub is this K's tram loco Quoted as well built, motor not working The damage not really evident in photos, still for £18 inc postage you cannot expect pristine condition The armature was very dirty, and a dousing of Eazl (spirit based cleaning fluid) failed to shift it. After a bit of careful scraping and burnishing, its now much cleaner and working. Was held in place by both the retaining screw on top and glue on the bottom (baseplate retaining screw missing). A quick oil also made quite a difference Its not that well made, so a rebuild is on the cards. Hopefully I can repair the cow catcher and find a retaining screw. also a new pick up arrangement would help. I do have a D&S kit to build which is far better quality and has interior detail as a spud is used to power it, but as the motor bogie of the K's is so big, any internal detail is not possible other than the odd guard 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 I received a super link from Prometheus for a thread he put on his club website (Swansea Railway Modellers Group) restoring a K's 97xx bodyline loco. I have had trouble removing black from my models, and it seems Nitromores have altered the formulation of their product as its now far less aggressive than it used to be. Now using caustic soda is very good removing colours but really struggles with matt blacks. I have heard that various oven cleaners work very well, being sprayed with the solution and kept in a sealed plastic bag for 24 hours. Tony used Mr Muscle oven cleaner, let it soak for a day and after a good clean up became nice and shiny. I have not attached a link (as Tony sent it as a message), perhaps Tony would kindly do so Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 A cheap K's 14xx arrived today, sadly wrapped up in 2 small padded envelopes Only a tenner plus postage but a step and cab side snapped off Why no bubble wrap and small card box was not used I dont know On a good note the Dean's paint is coming off nice and clean, no time to take it out and clean, but this black paint comes off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) I received a super link from Prometheus for a thread he put on his club website (Swansea Railway Modellers Group) restoring a K's 97xx bodyline loco. I have not attached a link (as Tony sent it as a message), perhaps Tony would kindly do so Happy to so do; it has appeared in a different format in another forum so some may have seen it already. Here it appears as an article however, without comments in between postings. Readers please note that this rebuild is intended as a generic representation rather than an accurate facsimile: I had difficulty sourcing close up photographs for things like the Weir Pump. Oh, Mr Muscle worked superbly on this model although it wouldn't touch the baked-on paint on a recent Wrenn Castle restoration. I had to resort to bead-blasting there. http://srmg.squarespace.com/gwr-94xx-condensing-pannier-tank/ I have also acquired another K's kit John - a complete 57xx with a Mk1 motor for just £20 ! As I have posted elsewhere however, it needs new brushes. Any thoughts on from where to source ? thanks Tony Edited March 4, 2015 by Prometheus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Hi John: I had a 7mm loco badly damaged in the post via ebay a few years back. I'd asked the sender to pack it carefully and unfortunately they didn't. They were however, refreshingly happy to refund me quite a bit of cash. Perhaps you could ask? Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Simon He has offered £3, said I would think about it. It only cost me £9.95 plus £4.50 postage, with recorded delivery costing him £4.20 I cannot really complain too much. This is the second thing I have received this week damage from poor Ebay packing, the other being an 009 coach which is easily to stick back together Tony I have no idea where to get anything like it, if you can. Trouble is these motors fetch good money and I am keeping my spares. I do seem to think having read about pencil lead being used ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 I'm wondering whether some of the smaller Hornby Ringfield motor brushes would fit John. I'll probably have to remove the K's brush, measure its girth, and make some phonecalls to Peters spares, etc.. Thanks Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiptonian Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) For those who find that their motors are completely past it, would these be any good as substitute K's motors? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-12V-13500-RPM-Double-Axle-Soldering-2Pin-Micro-Magnetic-Electric-DC-Motor/121463278485?_trksid=p2046732.c100040.m2060&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107095009%26meid%3Deef16d0e70de4bf3af7bd8864de4062b%26pid%3D100040%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D121463278485 Edited March 5, 2015 by Tiptonian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Thank you for that link. I'll explore further should the motor prove to be u/s. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) Tony I have had a quick look and only found a boxed Mk1 or is it a Mk2 motor and is nearly a tenner. Just keep an eye out on Ebay and you should get a working one for £5 to £7 or buy a kit at a decent (low) price keep the motor and resell the body and chassis. You never know you may well break even and get a free motor Edited March 5, 2015 by hayfield Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 Had a quick look in the container with the Dean goods in and ended up washing off the paint from all the bits Seems to be a strange yellow primer and some filler. Very pleased with whats happened the only bits requiring extra work is the tender axleboxes, which I will have a go with Nitromores Started cleaning off the castings and burnishing, this will take a couple of hours work, some bits are quite easy others more time consuming. Have all the major parts, may be missing a few little bits some of which may be sourced from my bits box. I think the footplate has side valances, these will have to be made from plasticard. There may still be some parts still in the caustic soda solution, it needs throwing away now but will decant to find some small parts which may still be hiding. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 A quick update on progress. The loco is now nearly cleaned up ready for re-assembly. The main missing part is the front buffer beam, only 2 buffers both of which are missing their locating spigots as are both tender water tank vents. These latter two items are easily replaced. Sadly I lost my original instructions (for what they are worth) which would have been used for making sure I had all the bits. Thankfully no side valance is needed, I do have some turned and cast brass fittings, but I think I will save these for a better model. I think I should firstly sort the chassis out by painting the wheels, fixing the motor on place securely, pickups etc. First I have some track building to do. On the 14xx front I have decided to return it, I have too many projects to do and another is stupid, also the £3 refund I felt derogatory, if it had the older mk1 chassis with decent wheels and or an earlier motor, then the spares value would have been worthwhile. The chap I think will now be a pain, he believes 2 padded envelopes is good packing and wants me to send the item back first and pay the return postage. That's not how it works as I should not be out of pocket for his poor packing. I get the refund in full (including my P&P) and he pays the return postage, which I will send recorded and may even be forced to go and buy a suitable box. Will depend on how reasonable he is Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rynd2it Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 Hi, Did you ever finish this thread? I found it because I have just been given a K's Dean Goods and it needs work! Thanks David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 1, 2019 Author Share Posted May 1, 2019 David The simple answer is no to both, I have two built Dean goods and one still unbuilt ((might be the same cleaned up and with a Mk1 motor) as for the 14xx, I have several including one converted to EM gauge. So it went back damaged We moved house early in 2016, so towards the end of 2015 busy wrapping up my collection, past 3 years have been hectic as the house has been remodelled and extended and now only just getting back to more serious modelling The K's Dean Goods are very simple locos to build, let down by the chassis, which chassis version do you have? I do have a set of K's tender instructions (for what they are worth), but its more an exercise in common sense Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rynd2it Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 Hi and thanks for the reply. I have no idea which chassis version I have - other than the fact it is rusted solid. I have attached a couple of pictures which might help. The tender is in much better condition and runs really nicely. They could both use a repaint but stripping the old paint off without removing any glue might be a problem - I don't really want to strip down as much as you did. Cheers David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 1, 2019 Author Share Posted May 1, 2019 Looks like you have an 80's series kit, the motor being the HMP and should have the plastic spoked wheels, cannot see a gear wheel. If the wheels run true and freely I would replace the motor and use a modern gearbox. Both the wheel treads and axles will need de-rusting . I would carefully remove the coupling rods, remove the wheels and axles. Carefully clean them and refit hoping they stay quartered and run freely. From memory the worm gear is glued into place and the gear wheel was plastic, so I think the motor and gears will have to be binned (if the motor is working try selling it for spares). Its not a lost cause, but will depend on how much you are willing to spend on it. New wheels, motor and gears will be a few £'s Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rynd2it Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 I'll be testing the motor tomorrow but I will have to completely strip the running gear to free it up. The worm gear has a grub screw in it and I'm told the axle gear wheel was plastic and probably split and fell off. A modern motor & gearbox is on the shopping list but I expect I'll get a nice working model for under £50 (I hope) Thanks for the help David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 2, 2019 Author Share Posted May 2, 2019 David, I would use a High Level gearbox as a preference, I think the frames have an inside dimension of 9 mm, though those just under 9 mm wide might struggle owing to the chassis axle bearings, I would go for one of the slimliners http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/gearboxplanner.pdf I do find the High Level Gear boxes work straight out of the box without tweaking. The K's HMP motor has no fixings for modern motor mounts, so you would use the remote attachment, which uses an extension shaft which fits on to the shaft of the motor and is attached either bu a universal joint of a neoprene tube The Keyser wheels do not like being taken off the axles too much, the axles will polish up as will the wheel rims, but the plating will be damaged and I guess they will need changing at sometime, a Keyser mk 1 or 2 motor might be an option, but these will not easily fit the gearboxes A tip for the future, look for kits (or Chassis) with wheels and gears that are going cheapish, keep the wheels and motors and resell the kit/chassis, over time you will build up a stock of wheels and motors at inexpensive prices. Romford/Markit wheels are the easiest to fit, but are pricey, there is an alternative cheaper version available but only for the very common sizes New etched (jointed) coupling rods would also be of use First before spending any money I would get a very free running chassis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted May 2, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 2, 2019 The K's tyres are not plated, they are machined steel, should clean up quite easily but the D location might not survive. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rynd2it Posted May 2, 2019 Share Posted May 2, 2019 Hi John, Thanks for all the help and advice, it really is making this into a do-able project. I'd actually found the High Level kits and had decided on the slimline gearbox. Very reasonable pricing too. Next off, I plan on stripping the chassis right back and de-rusting everything and seeing what is salvageable. I'll keep you posted and with some pics if that's OK. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rynd2it Posted May 2, 2019 Share Posted May 2, 2019 27 minutes ago, Michael Edge said: The K's tyres are not plated, they are machined steel, should clean up quite easily but the D location might not survive. Thanks for that - I'll be really careful when dismantling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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