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south_tyne
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Out of interest, what engine sounds have you/Youchoos put on the decoder?

I am enjoying your build, and tempted to try it myself, but not until I clear a few other unfinished projects off my workbench queue.

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Out of interest, what engine sounds have you/Youchoos put on the decoder?

 

I am enjoying your build, and tempted to try it myself, but not until I clear a few other unfinished projects off my workbench queue.

 

The sounds in the Youchoos 71 are 73 sounds which have been modified, all I did was ask John at Youchoos to swap the diesel engine used in the 73 with the diesel engine sounds from a Cl 14, which is the correct prototype... I don't know if John will make the 74 a standsrd file but I'm pleased with how it sounds.

 

I know the feeling. I have list of projects to finish. A while back my airbrush went down so the 74 jumped the queue.

 

As an aside I'm using the AK Interactive Spray can Resin Primer and am really impressed with it. I've had problem in the past with paint not sticking firmly to resin but the AK stuff is wonderful. Expensive but wonderful

 

https://ak-interactive.com/product/fine-resin-primer-spray/

 

I get mine for emodels.co.uk No connection but a happy customer :)

 

Good luck with your 74.

 

Luke

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SILVER FOX CLASS 74 MODEL

 

In the DJ Models, Class 74 rtr model thread, I've posted a couple of entries regarding e-mail correspondence I've had with John Hazleton, owner of Silver Fox Models, regarding availability of his Class 74 model, now that DJ Models has indefininitely deferred their proposed rtr model. Silver Fox had removed the Class 74 from their catalogue when the DJ Models product was announced, but have decided to market it again. I obtained the kit of parts a couple of days ago and have attached photos of the resin moulded body, underframe detail and bogie sides. One thing I wanted to look at was using the Hornby Class 71 chassis as the method of motorising, the model being designed for a cutdown Hornby Class 86 or 87 chassis.

 

 work, they are intact and will be reglued in place. The chassis used is from an existing BR green livery Class 71 that I had to hand, I will have to buy a new donor chassis, probably in BR blue.

 

 

I have finally given in and ordered a kit for myself. Now to buy a "Hornby Class 71" power unit.

Edited by Judge Dread
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I have finally given in and ordered a kit for myself. Now to buy a "Hornby Class 71" power unit.

Both have now arrived. The Class 71  is the green E5001 as the preserved example in the early days at the NRM. The kit for the 74 looks like it will keep me busy for a time but first I must compelt the wiring of a layout, "Cooper Wort" for Peter Goss.

My thanks to John Hazleton at Silver Fox Models for a very speedy delivery service.

Edited by Judge Dread
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Steady progress

 

post-7204-0-54635300-1537114854_thumb.jpg

Sideframes and fuel tank / battery box primed with Vallejo Black surface primer 73.602.

 

post-7204-0-50044200-1537114976_thumb.jpg

Gears and bearings masked prior to wheels being primed, also with Vellejo balck, using a wheel tread masking jig, made from 2 bits of thick styrene, 2x 16mm holes and a post office rubber band...

 

post-7204-0-96384900-1537115024_thumb.jpg

Wheels primed

 

post-7204-0-04725500-1537115082_thumb.jpg

Sideframes and fuel tank after coat of Vallejo Model Air 71.056 Black Grey. I only sprayed from top and sides as I wanted the primer black to be the "deep shadow"

 

Next step weathering of wheels, tanks and sideframes then fully dismantle the drive mechanism to clean, re-lube and reassemble before wiring up...

 

Lots to do but moving forward  :)

 

Luke

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I like your wheel masking jig.

 

Thanks!

 

It's based on an idea I've seen the Americans use.

 

2 pieces of plastic as thick as the tyre on the model, drilled with two holes of the same size as the wheels (in this case 16mm) and held together with an elastic band. Mind you drilling the holes was a bit fraught. Neither my model drill nor hand drill would take the shank of the drill so I had to use the electric drill... Difficult to get the speed slow enough that it didn't meal the plastic but high enough that it cut the plastic without deforming. When i do another I'll clamp the 2 pieces of plastic between a couple of pieces of ply and then drill right through them all in one go.

 

I'm pleased the way it worked out :)

 

Luke

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Thanks!

 

It's based on an idea I've seen the Americans use.

 

2 pieces of plastic as thick as the tyre on the model, drilled with two holes of the same size as the wheels (in this case 16mm) and held together with an elastic band. Mind you drilling the holes was a bit fraught. Neither my model drill nor hand drill would take the shank of the drill so I had to use the electric drill... Difficult to get the speed slow enough that it didn't meal the plastic but high enough that it cut the plastic without deforming. When i do another I'll clamp the 2 pieces of plastic between a couple of pieces of ply and then drill right through them all in one go.

 

I'm pleased the way it worked out :)

 

Luke

 

Have you tried a brace and bit, with an adjustable diameter bit?

 

Gordon A

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Would using a drill bit in an electric screwdriver work?

 

Should do, and would be more controllable.

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/brad-point-wood-bit-16-x-178mm/5171v

 

This is the one I used. The only think is that the shaft is 13mm which may not fit the screwdriver.

 

Another idea (my back up plan) would be to use a circle cutter like the Olfa CMP-1

 

I got mine from London Graphics (no connection but happy customer)

 

https://www.londongraphics.co.uk/olfa-cmp1-compass-cutter.

 

Good luck with whichever method you choose!

 

Luke

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Onto a more generic Silver Fox discussion - I noticed yesterday that they now have an eBay site and are selling sides/cabs for DMUs - class 114 and 120 are available. I’ve not seen any mention anywhere.

 

I presume these are the parts they use for their own conversions but looks an excellent idea to sell as kits - especially after the loss of a lot of the DCKits DMUs.

 

Hopefully a successful venture.

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Onto a more generic Silver Fox discussion - I noticed yesterday that they now have an eBay site and are selling sides/cabs for DMUs - class 114 and 120 are available. I’ve not seen any mention anywhere.

 

I presume these are the parts they use for their own conversions but looks an excellent idea to sell as kits - especially after the loss of a lot of the DCKits DMUs.

 

Hopefully a successful venture.

 

DC Kits are gradually being reissued.

 

https://www.dckits-devideos.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=131_224

 

 

 

Jason

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I've started to weather the bogies, wheels and undeframe details...

 

post-7204-0-06559300-1537365116_thumb.jpg

 

post-7204-0-59427100-1537365151_thumb.jpg

 

It all need another light coat of my home-brew electric underframe grime, 4 parts Vallejo ModelAir 028 Sand Yellow to 1 part Vallejo ModelAir 71029 Dark Earth.

 

The wheels have also had patches of dry brushing with Vallejo Model Air 71.056 Black Grey.

 

Luke

 

 

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Onto a more generic Silver Fox discussion - I noticed yesterday that they now have an eBay site and are selling sides/cabs for DMUs - class 114 and 120 are available. I’ve not seen any mention anywhere.

 

I presume these are the parts they use for their own conversions but looks an excellent idea to sell as kits - especially after the loss of a lot of the DCKits DMUs.

 

Hopefully a successful venture.

 

The 119, 123 & 124 have also appeared in the last couple of months.

 

I bought a 119 kit, the overlays are very thin plastic, probably not much different to overlays in etched brass for thickness. They recommend attaching to a donor Mk1 coach using double sided tape, there is a specific brand but the kit is now packed away. Presumably this is because a glue might damage the overlays being so fine. The kit also includes a resin moulding for the underframe parts, which appears to be of their usual high quality.

 

John.

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Looking at the Silver fox website I see their class 123 dmu, but what I would really like is a class 124 TransPennine unit (even as a 3 or 4 car unit). Can anyone advise what the differences are between the 123 and 124?

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A 123 was originally a 6 car unit , although ran as 5 cars when buffets removed. They could be characterised by their full width cab which was curved and looked very much like the Glasgow blue trains introduced at the same time . They were the original Trans Pennine Units. 124s have a gangway at the front with curved windscreens . They were originally allocated to Western Region as 4 coach sets . Latterly 82ish 123 and 124 fleets were mixed in Trans Pennine duties. I think the depot was Hull Dairycoates.

 

If you want a real Swindon unit , it has to be a 126 !

Edited by Legend
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A 123 was originally a 6 car unit , although ran as 5 cars when buffets removed. They could be characterised by their full width cab which was curved and looked very much like the Glasgow blue trains introduced at the same time . They were the original Trans Pennine Units. 124s have a gangway at the front with curved windscreens . They were originally allocated to Western Region as 4 coach sets . Latterly 82ish 123 and 124 fleets were mixed in Trans Pennine duties. I think the depot was Hull Dairycoates.

 

If you want a real Swindon unit , it has to be a 126 !

 

I think you've got your 123s and 124s the wrong way around Legend. 124s with the full width cabs were the original TP sets. The 123s had the front gangways and were the Western Region sets which migrated north to Hull and, as you say, resulted in mixed 123/124 sets in their final years.

 

I have to say I've fancied one of the Silver Fox 123s for some time for use as a Transpennine set on my layout, but have never taken the plunge. Given they now sell the 124 kit via eBay I guess a RTR version of this may be in the pipeline too.

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I think you've got your 123s and 124s the wrong way around Legend. 124s with the full width cabs were the original TP sets. The 123s had the front gangways and were the Western Region sets which migrated north to Hull and, as you say, resulted in mixed 123/124 sets in their final years.

 

I have to say I've fancied one of the Silver Fox 123s for some time for use as a Transpennine set on my layout, but have never taken the plunge. Given they now sell the 124 kit via eBay I guess a RTR version of this may be in the pipeline too.

Thanks Deltic79 for the correction. You are , of course correct

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Looking at the Silver fox website I see their class 123 dmu, but what I would really like is a class 124 TransPennine unit (even as a 3 or 4 car unit). Can anyone advise what the differences are between the 123 and 124?

John Hazleton of Silver Fox has produced the parts for a 6 car class 124 set. He has been selling the parts set on his ebay store while he took a break from model making. He told me a couple of months ago that he has restarted making 63 ft prototype dmu/demus to order, and had started my 6 car class 124. So if you're interested you can email them. I believe their current cost is £75 for unmotorised coaches and £125 for the single motorised coach, so a full Class 124 will be circa £500. I will probably replace the motorised chassis with a Replica Railways 63 ft motorised chassis which is a low floor twin bogie/twin motor system and is a direct fit as Silver Fox use Replica 63ft Mk 1 coach chassis in their models.

Edited by rembrow
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There is a mass of Silver Fox stuff on Ebay at the moment.

A part built Brown Boverii Gas Turbine which looks clean and umpteen DMUs.

Read the notification on the DMUs carefully. Some are the sides only and others have the cabs and underframes and are complete kits.

I am in no way suggesting that there is anything dodgy going on, just make sure you know what you are bidding on to avoid disappointment!

I for one have not read adverts properly in the past and have been, by my own fault, properly sponned!!!!!

The kits themselves are excellent. The sides are clean and sharp and the resin is high quality.

I am a satisfied customer.

                                      C.

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Hi All,

 

Another recommend from me - great kits and I have enjoyed building the two I have worked on this far. They need a bit of thinking about but that’s what makes them a good kit building experience in my book! I have done the GWR gas turbines, 18000 (finished) and 18100 (nearly done!).

 

18000 - full write up is on Little Didcot below.

 

post-14393-0-41206300-1538080742_thumb.jpeg

 

18100 - I just have the bogies and cab interior to do. This is a much earlier stage of progress and I will write it up when I’m done on Little Didcot too!

 

post-14393-0-11100000-1538081076_thumb.jpeg

 

Lovely work on the model by the way Luke!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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