raymw Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 All it needs is a thatched roof. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted March 19, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2015 It was built as a 4-8-4 - or 2-D-2 - with a multi differential system coupling the four main engines to the two axles in the centre, the two smaller (150hp) engines just drove the superchargers for the main ones. Having axles gear coupled and rod coupled was asking for trouble with transmission wind up and the centre section of the rods was removed fairly soon, making the loco a 4-4-4-4 or 2-B-B-2. The complication for a model in this form is not that you need two motors but that the axles have to keep in step without a coupling rod. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 19, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2015 It was built as a 4-8-4 - or 2-D-2 - with a multi differential system coupling the four main engines to the two axles in the centre, the two smaller (150hp) engines just drove the superchargers for the main ones. Having axles gear coupled and rod coupled was asking for trouble with transmission wind up and the centre section of the rods was removed fairly soon, making the loco a 4-4-4-4 or 2-B-B-2. The complication for a model in this form is not that you need two motors but that the axles have to keep in step without a coupling rod. But, as both sides of the loco can't be seen at the same time, one option is to make both a 4-4-4-4 and a 4-8-4... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 19, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2015 so, what's the tactics, butcher a Class 40 for the main body ? then ...... That's actually a far better idea than mine, which was to hand craft the bodyshell and add etched brass grills and window surrounds as required. As the Hatton's Twins were also built by the same Derby works, I could also buy one of those, but that's probably a tad expensive. .. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted March 19, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2015 Or wait till Judith Edge kits have their kit available??? Hat, coat head for the door... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 19, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2015 Or wait till Judith Edge kits have their kit available??? Hat, coat head for the door... Nah, where's the fun in that ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted March 19, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2015 That's actually a far better idea than mine, which was to hand craft the bodyshell and add etched brass grills and window surrounds as required. As the Hatton's Twins were also built by the same Derby works, I could also buy one of those, but that's probably a tad expensive. .. Hi Stubby Leave any similar looking RTR body well alone. By the time you have cut and reshaped it to the correct profile etc. you would have been better off with a sheet of Evergreen 40thou. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted March 19, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2015 That's actually a far better idea than mine, which was to hand craft the bodyshell and add etched brass grills and window surrounds as required. As the Hatton's Twins were also built by the same Derby works, I could also buy one of those, but that's probably a tad expensive. .. Great idea, but that's not scratchbuilding you cheat!! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted March 19, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2015 All it needs is a thatched roof. I'm going to be the first to say it, don't forget the toilet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I'm going to be the first to say it, don't forget the toilet. I beat you to it, a few posts ago..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 19, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2015 I'm going to be the first to say it, don't forget the toilet. (Deep breath, think calm thoughts, say to yourself "I've moved on, I've moved on, I've moved on, they can't hurt me, I've moved on.") Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LizzieLean Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Hi Stubby i hope that putting my Bayer Garett on your layout at our show,did not start all this off.Regards Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 19, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2015 Hi Stubby i hope that putting my Bayer Garett on your layout at our show,did not start all this off.Regards Roger Hi Roger, Yes, it's all your fault !!! Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted March 19, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2015 But, as both sides of the loco can't be seen at the same time, one option is to make both a 4-4-4-4 and a 4-8-4... Yes but it won't work - rod drive on one side only? I'm thinking of chain coupling the centre axles although the wheels are rather small for this. Our kit is still a long way off. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I'm going to be the first to say it, don't forget the toilet. Joking aside, did the Fell have a toilet? Quite a few diesels do have loos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 19, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2015 Yes but it won't work - rod drive on one side only? I'm thinking of chain coupling the centre axles although the wheels are rather small for this. Our kit is still a long way off. Ah, but my challenge entry doesn't have to 'work' 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 You could do a diorama of it on fire at Manchester Central, complete with 1950s fire engines in attendance. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 19, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2015 You could do a diorama of it on fire at Manchester Central, complete with 1950s fire engines in attendance. See post #13... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Reichert Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 You could do a diorama of it on fire at Manchester Central, complete with 1950s fire engines in attendance. Cliche' modelling is most effective when all items are shiny and purchased from the local toy shop. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) Yes but it won't work - rod drive on one side only? I'm thinking of chain coupling the centre axles although the wheels are rather small for this. Our kit is still a long way off. Not the cheapest of options, but mine will have a pair of High Level gearboxes on either end of a Mashima motor; that way, as a 4-4-4-4 the rods will remain in sync. Originally I bought an A1 Models Dinosaur Diesel kit of 10100, but the etchings were so far out, especially around the cab windows, that I sold it on. You told me some time ago that you have one of these in your 'to do' list; hope that it arrives whilst I am still of this world !! (Only kidding, Mike). Anyway - there's nothing stopping me from getting on with your 11001. Regards, John Isherwood. Edited March 19, 2015 by cctransuk 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 (Deep breath, think calm thoughts, say to yourself "I've moved on, I've moved on, I've moved on, they can't hurt me, I've moved on.") Yes, but the joke's moved on even quicker! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 21, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2015 (edited) I've been having a think..... According to Michael's excellent drawing ( and there seems to be an army of closet Fell admirers going by the high number of downloads !), the centre wheelbase works out at about 25.9mm. So, if I used a 26mm pre-built motor unit to drive the centre pair of wheels, then the coupling rods would drive the outer wheels and all would be kept in alignment. The wheels need to be 17.3mm diameter, with extended shafts to drive the cranks and rods. Does any of that make sense ? Edited March 21, 2015 by Stubby47 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold teaky Posted March 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2015 Yes, it does make sense. You'd have to make it the same on both sides though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 21, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2015 Yes, it does make sense. You'd have to make it the same on both sides though. Why ? I could still add short rods one side and a long 4-wheel rod the other. All the wheels should turn at the same rate, I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold teaky Posted March 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2015 I was thinking there might be a slight risk of the wheels not remaining perfectly aligned (in rotation), but perhaps that doesn't matter anyway. I was thinking out load really Stubby. I have no experience of doing anything similar. Whatever happens, there is probably little risk anyway, since one side could be remodelled to match the other if the two-sided approach doesn't work. In fact, as I type this, it occurs to me that the long rods on one side will keep everything in line anyway. (I'm almost tempted to delete the second part of my earlier post, as it's b#####ks.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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