Jump to content

Kitbuild of GWR Scott Atlantic .


Recommended Posts

 It,s been in  the cupboard for several years and I recently finished getting all the

extras assembled so now is a good time to commit to the build .

 

 

post-6765-0-86862600-1426684698_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-6765-0-78185900-1426684722_thumb.jpg

 

 

 Now , wheres the soldering iron ???

Edited by Sidecar Racer
  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

 The plan .

 

 Most of the construction will be as per the included instructions . The tender will be done first

as it's a while since my last kit build attempt so it should be a simple starting point .

 

 Some of the loco components are going to be changed for more modern parts to improve

both the look and the reliability .

 

 The kit has white metal cylinders and slide bars and crossheads , these will be changed for Comet

and Markit parts as seen below .

 

post-6765-0-56029200-1426945461_thumb.jpg

 

 The recommended motor is an Anchoridge DS 11 plus gears , this is going in favour of

a Mashima and High Level gearbox .

 

post-6765-0-93554600-1426945760_thumb.jpg

 

Markit drivers and bogie wheels will also be used .

 

 And we have a name .

 

post-6765-0-82854300-1426945892_thumb.jpg

 

 So hopefully construction will commence soon .

  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

 The plan .

 

  The tender will be done first as it's a while since my last kit build attempt so it should be a simple starting point .

 

 

 Well that was wishful thinking .

 

The parts supplied .

 

post-6765-0-85705300-1427553018_thumb.jpg

 

 The chassis frames were removed from the etch and formed .

oddly the etch is bent so that the half etch is on the outside

of the fold rather than the inside ,

 

post-6765-0-14609400-1427553067_thumb.jpg

 

post-6765-0-89087400-1427553093_thumb.jpg

 

 

 This design uses the white metal axle box's to locate and align the wheel sets

in the frames , not liking using this as I find it makes the rolling ability of  the

tender restricted I tried several ways of introducing brass top hat bushes into

the axle box's but was unable  to attain sufficient depth to get the axles in , it

would be possible to turn down the axles with a lathe but that's not in my tool kit .

 

 A bit of research showed that Comet produce a frame set of the correct

wheelbase but using drop out capability of the wheels , so a set of frames

and some new wheels were procured .

 

 These were assembled and slightly adapted to sit inside the original frames ,

all this entailed was a 1.5 mm packing at each end to align the axles at the correct

height relative to the original , now the cast axle box's can be added without restricting

a free rolling chassis .

 

 

post-6765-0-78387600-1427553140_thumb.jpg

 

post-6765-0-69391700-1427553167_thumb.jpg

 

post-6765-0-75138900-1427553198_thumb.jpg

 

post-6765-0-07424300-1427553303_thumb.jpg

 

post-6765-0-51957100-1427553335_thumb.jpg

 

post-6765-0-15385100-1427553367_thumb.jpg

 

 

So I now have the main area done and a fitting footplate , next steps will be to finish

the underframe details of brakes , water scoop and vac tank , plus foot steps .

 

More updates as work progress's .

  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

Often these older kits have very old ideas on the way they should be constructed. Fortunately there are enough parts these days to get them done in a more modern way. I always like the models to be in as many bits as possible for ease of painting.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mike, good to see this getting underway. I'm listening and learning. Nice fix with the frame issue, Comet saves the day again.

 

Often these older kits have very old ideas on the way they should be constructed. Fortunately there are enough parts these days to get them done in a more modern way. I always like the models to be in as many bits as possible for ease of painting.

 

 Hi Guys ,

 

 Thanks for the positive comments , Peter has described exactly what I'm trying to do ,

bring a 20th Century kit kicking and screaming into the 21'st using better quality items .

 

 I also like to try to build things that are multi unit construction , I can guarantee that I could not

build a chassis in one hit and have it work to my satisfaction , hence Romford type wheels and

 gearbox's with grub screw fixing and so on .

 

 Mikkel , you are right on  the mark , Comet parts have and will be used a lot , they really do a

good range of bits for upgrading models .

 

 The castings in the kit are very good , but some are just to thick for todays standards , so

etched parts will be substituted wherever possible .

 

 Thanks again .

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Some progress and singed fingers .

 

 

 I carried on with the chassis and fitted the brake shoes and rigging , this is where a small

problem arises , once the rigging is fitted the wheels are no longer a dropout fit , the brake

pull rod is in the way . I think I have found a way to get over this but it will mean that I will

most likely need to build a new chassis , I also managed to get one of the center brake shoes

a good 2 to 3 mm to far inboard when viewed from below . so a fresh start is the best way

forward to get over these niggles . Here's a photo anyway .

 

post-6765-0-24424300-1428336963_thumb.jpg

 

Has anyone found an easy way of holding and soldering all the shoes rigging in a

straight line both fore and aft and sideways at the same time ?    

 

 If so please tell me how before I get even more short tempered .  :banghead:

 

So with  that done I thought I may as well continue and build up the tender .

 

The basic sides and end were soldered up and the tank top had a couple of bits fitted  that

would not be accessible when in place , water filler and dome plus tool box's and vents

 

post-6765-0-75068700-1428337027_thumb.jpg

 

 The two bits were then soldered together and the rest of the top fittings applied , tool rack

and coal plate plus the coal rail between the tool box's .

 

post-6765-0-01291200-1428337499_thumb.jpg

 

 Annoyingly this was when I noticed that one tool box was slightly off line , to late now to do

anything about it , I'll claim it got whacked by a lump off coal from the coal stage .

 

 A bit of checking various ways of fitting the water scoop , eventually it was fitted to the

main underfloor rather that the chassis .

 

post-6765-0-81392900-1428337191_thumb.jpg

 

 This involved a bit of metal removal from what will be the outer chassis to get clearance

to let it drop in .

 

post-6765-0-96033300-1428337151_thumb.jpg

 

The inner chassis then slots in on top again

 

post-6765-0-45971300-1428337223_thumb.jpg

 

post-6765-0-79053600-1428337240_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 Next I will do the new inner chassis trying to get my ideas to work .

Edited by Sidecar Racer
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

I always make the brake rigging removable. Use a tube at the top instead of  a wire, then solder a wire to the top of the brake hanger, one that will fit into the tube. Hey presto the top of the hanger is the right distance from the frames and the rigging clips in easily.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

 I have a cunning plan .

 

Before going ahead and building a new chassis I thought I'd try out my ideas on the old one first .

 

 I added some short lengths of wire from the frame down to the pull rod on each side of of

the axle box , this allows the pull rod to be snipped out between  the two supports .

 

 

 

post-6765-0-24789000-1428419181_thumb.jpg

 

 

 And in cruel close up .

 

post-6765-0-30399000-1428419230_thumb.jpg

 

Now the wheels will drop in .

 

post-6765-0-76940400-1428419357_thumb.jpg

 

 Plenty of clearance to avoid shorts , in fact on  the next build I should be able to

close things up a bit .

 

post-6765-0-76532900-1428419925_thumb.jpg

 

 And here it is dropped in the outer frame , the pull rod is still visible between the wheels

but you can't see that it's not there behind the wheel .

 

post-6765-0-89659800-1428420410_thumb.jpg

 

 

 So now to build a new one , this time the support wires will be on the inside of

the frames and can be fitted before joining the two half's  which will be easier

and neater , but at least I proved to my own satisfaction that the idea was

practical .

 

 I do like Pete's method using tube for supports but in 4mm I think I would

find it to fiddly , at least now I have the drop out option that I wanted .

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Did you finish the Scott Atlantic?

Drduncan

 

 

 Thanks for asking .

 

 Sadly not , at the moment it is still a work in progress .

 

 I have had a spell of loss of mojo but must try and get back into doing something .

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I have had a spell of loss of mojo but must try and get back into doing something .

 

I think that happens to all of us from time to time.

 

Thankfully it seems to be possible to treat the problem by starting another kit.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

   

I think that happens to all of us from time to time.

 

Thankfully it seems to be possible to treat the problem by starting another kit.

 

 The trouble is I started this while there were several other builds on the go .

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for asking .

 

 Sadly not , at the moment it is still a work in progress .

 

 I have had a spell of loss of mojo but must try and get back into doing something .

Sorry to hear that, but it would be great to see a Scott Atlantic in service. Wish I'd had the sense to buy one well over a decade ago then I could be upsetting the LNWR fraternity on Hope under Dinmore with one!

Drduncan

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

The trouble is I started this while there were several other builds on the go .

 

I think that qualifies you as a railway modeller. We all have them.

 

Just need to find one with all the component parts present in the box at the start and that can be finished without resorting to alterations or redesign.

 

Now where is that Airfix kit?

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...