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7 completed 3 L&Y & 1 Midland loco in progress.


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Tom

 

I'm a swiss modeller as you know but that's been put on hold because of a baby taking over my railway room.

I'm part of the keighley em group & as a result I can build locos to run on the new club layout so it works well for me being able to build locos as part of the challenge & have something for it to run on.

 

I've just ordered amother McGowan kit for the Y6 tram loco. I'm a bit of a great eastern fan on the quiet & well there could be something pop up great eastern in the future layout wise ; )

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Simon, I am a terrible rubber gauger and have a stack of stuff from Z to 0 that may or may not ever get used. Which is why I need to liquidate some of it to help pay for the swiss stuff which I have always liked. At the moment I am trying to find a space to model in as it is not my own so have to make compromises. I have looked at clubs around here but think the nearest one is probably 30 miles away as as you know getting out of this neck of the woods takes time. Having just read an article in Finescale Review about Farish J39 and a chassis I pondering sticking to 2mm. Anyways trying to butt kick myself into activity and reducing the mountain of stuff :)

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Tom I'm guilty of that too.

 

I think I'm settled now with Hom & Em at the club ; )

 

Right update time. My J50 has been gathering pace now with all the castings fitted & painted in satin black.

I've now found a number & prototype to work too & this loco will be finished as one of Ardsley's finest.

Once the camera has charged I will update the thread with some photos.

 

Simon

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Yesterday i finished off the J50 with all the castings & etched beading. The beading wasn't as bad as i thought it was & i must admit that i am really pleased with the finish off this model. I cannot wait to see it hauling a train on the club layout this afternoon. I'm going to take my camera & get a couple of shots of it which i will add in due course.

This is the loco prior to painting with a few castings to be fitted.

post-8269-0-31011500-1430548192_thumb.jpg

The finished model

post-8269-0-87058700-1430548200_thumb.jpg

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I can honestly say this has been a fantastic build & a really enjoyable week. This building locos lark is a bit like a drug !! It's really keeping my mood lifted which has been something that has lacked for the past 18 months with all the bad news about my arm & surgeries etc.

Right ...... Next !!

I think it is time to go for something a little bigger now. It's time for the Brassmasters 4F to come out the box & be built. This kit would have scared me 18 months ago but i am confident i can build it after all its only a 0-6-0 with working inside valve gear :S
Mine isn't going to work i don't think, having looked at the instructions i don't think i am that good to make it work although i think it will feature as a dummy model. Again this will be built to Em gauge & i just need to source a Brassmasters tender plus driving wheels & a motor / gearbox which will be my standard high level choice because they are beautiful bits of kit.

Fingers crossed this is as smooth as the J50.

Thats all for now.

Simon

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Thanks for the kind comment Captain. It really means a lot to hear it.

It's been the best therapy for my mental state incinerating my fingers & producing these models. When I finished the J50 I must admit I was really proud but it makes it all the better to hear praise from fellow members of the forum. If you lot are praising them I must be doing something right.

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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....It's time for the Brassmasters 4F to come out the box & be built. This kit would have scared me 18 months ago but i am confident i can build it after all its only a 0-6-0 with working inside valve gear :S

...

Did you not also have a "Black 5" kit from Brassmasters as well, or am I thinking of someone else?

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Superb stuff. Have to admit I avoid etch kits for steam purely because I'm lazy and hate doing the valve gear bit as my big fingers struggle and bits tend to ping off ;)

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Thanks for the comments guys. Horsetan I do have a black 5 that's currently with a kit builder who's had it for a few years now & it's currently under way.

As I'm constructing my own stock to run on the club layouts I am planning on buying another plus a jubilee to build at some point.

 

I've now got the tender plus the motor / gearbox brassmasters recommends for the kit. Hopefully I can get hold of Colin at Gibsons on Tuesday for the loco wheels.

 

I'm going to attempt to make the valve gear work in Em, is this possible or is it just p4 because the instructions seem a little vacant on this area. If it doesn't come off its still going to be a nice dummy between the frames.

 

I have some videos of the J50 working on the club layout which I will upload to youtube Tomorrow & post here.

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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....I'm going to attempt to make the valve gear work in Em, is this possible or is it just p4 because the instructions seem a little vacant on this area. ....

Changed your mind already on making the inside motion work? No change there, then! Yes it is possible in EM....just.

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Have you done it horsetan ?

 

I know when you go to p4 you've enough room but once you head to Em space is tighter & cramped. I'm still not certain I can make it work. I was reading pink mouses build of the valve gear & he seems to have had problems. I'm going to have a go, it can always be a detailed dummy at the very least.

 

Simon

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Have you done it horsetan ?

Not in EM. All my inside motion stuff is P4/S4....or Irish broad gauge. If it's there, then at least have a go at making it work.

 

But I'm sure the notes/instructions say that EM is possible. It's OO where you haven't a hope.

 

I know when you go to p4 you've enough room but once you head to Em space is tighter & cramped. I'm still not certain I can make it work. I was reading pink mouses build of the valve gear & he seems to have had problems.

I'm not sure he ever finished it. He sort of disappeared from the Forum years ago.

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.... I'd be interested to see Irish broad gauge, never knew they had broad gauge....

I don't do it on this Forum. There are better Forums for that type of thing.

 

Irish broad gauge is 5'3" (compared to British 4'8.5"), which basically means 21mm gauge in 4mm scale.

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Do you have a link. I'm really interested in seeing your work.

 

I've been reading the instructions & look g at the drawings on the 4f preparing myself for this build. I'm thinking of going the whole hog with sprung chassis too because it seems a very well designed kit that should go together well. This is the most in depth model i've ever seen & although it's scary the amount of detail i'm up for the challenge. I'm going to make a start tomorrow all being well on building some of the valve gear. The tender is ordered & is in the post Tuesday along with the high level gearbox & 1420 motor.

 

Simon

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Firstly i have a couple of images that i took of the models i have already completed.

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The J79 is going to be re-gauged to Em sometime this next week once i have some axels.

The J50 on a local passenger working running in turn after a trip to the works for a overhaul.

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It does need a smokebox dart fitting but the one with the kit was naff so i will order one from Gibsons tomorrow when i buy the wheels for the 4F.

The 4F was officially started this morning. I got up at 7am & stuck on a Marsden rail whilst i pondered the paperwork & instructions that comes with the 4F. I've always understood how a steam engine works but never did i think i would be constructing the internal valve gear of one.

This kit really is something of a work of art & its very in depth. I wonder how many of the 50 kits produced have the valve gear working & how many chickened out. I'm not saying i am going to get this to work but so far so good. It's taken me the best part of 3 hours to build this tiny bit of the internal workings. I had to disassemble the centre of the connecting rod a few time to get rid of a bind that kept happening when i turned the centre. 

At first i was worried i could not do this but i have managed my first bits of valve gear to work & i am confident i can get it to work properly. I've told myself if i can make this i can make anything &b i've been put off by building a B16/3 because of valve gear. 

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The connecting rod is built up of 3 pieces, 2 overlays & the centre. The centre of the rod what spins is built up of 4 parts sweated together & pinned with some wire which is the part that took time. I have another connecting rod to build & 2 eccentric rods. Now i have made one & learnt how to make it i am confident the others won't take as much time because i made the errors on the first piece.

The first part of the 4F completed.

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To show what the thing looks like properly you can see here  

http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/images/4F/4F%20dwg07.jpg

It's taken me 3 or 4 days of studying the image to get my head around the parts.

I'm not doing any more today i am off for lunch with the family but i am hitting it head on tomorrow & i am hoping i can have all 4 rods working & ready for the next stage.

Simon
 

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...I wonder how many of the 50 kits produced have the valve gear working & how many chickened out....

Well, they haven't sold all 50 (they've still got quite a few unsold ones in stock, so you can discount those for a start). I bought two (both on eBay): one to be built left-hand drive, the other right-hand drive, both to be built fully-working.

 

I'm not saying i am going to get this to work but so far so good. It's taken me the best part of 3 hours to build this tiny bit of the internal workings. I had to disassemble the centre of the connecting rod a few time to get rid of a bind that kept happening when i turned the centre. 

At first i was worried i could not do this but i have managed my first bits of valve gear to work & i am confident i can get it to work properly. I've told myself if i can make this i can make anything &b i've been put off by building a B16/3 because of valve gear. 

attachicon.gif3.jpg

The connecting rod is built up of 3 pieces, 2 overlays & the centre. The centre of the rod what spins is built up of 4 parts sweated together & pinned with some wire which is the part that took time. I have another connecting rod to build & 2 eccentric rods. Now i have made one & learnt how to make it i am confident the others won't take as much time because i made the errors on the first piece....

 

I think Brassmasters let us get off lightly by designing everything on cam eccentrics! If this had been a Martin Finney kit, you would be expected to make proper crank axles, which means slipping the eccentrics on, followed by soldering crank webs to the axle and cutting through the axle when you're done...

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That's just barmey!

 

I don't think I'm capable of building them true to the real thing.

 

I've built 2 sets of connecting rods now & I've started working on the crosshead assembly. I must admit this kit is a real challenge which is enjoyable but sometimes a pain. Although the diagrams are great i'm finding the small text instructions a little bit of a mare. I'm also a bit unsure about the tube which is used to make everything work. I can't fathom out how long this should be? Is it the width of a em spacer minus the bearings & also it says to put a 14ba nut on it. Is this then drilled so the tube can be tightened to the axel?

Very confusing because I cannot find any details so far in the instructions about these parts. I think maybe a call to brassmasters tomorrow to clear this up Is on the cards.

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