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Precimodels Remote Uncoupler for Kadee - DCC


1ngram
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Just found these for sale on Ebay:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-Uncoupler-for-Kadee-Conversion-Kit-for-DCC-control-HO-scale-2pcs-/251646938405?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a97538d25

 

The video (also in Youtube:

) looks like the answer to any Kadee user's dreams.  Have these been discussed anywhere on RMweb (if so I can't locate the thread) or does anyone have first hand experience of installing and operating this DCC uncoupling set-up?
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great to see someone come up with solid idea like this and how it will evolve in the market place. I do wonder how robust they are in length of usage but at that price, one can do all locos and get a few spares if they fail a few years later etc.

 

shall follow to how folk get on and review them.

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The unit has been around for a little while.   It is a neat idea for the Kadee, and should be scalable to other sizes (perhaps need to DIY your own with a bigger motor or bigger pulley).   The designer has been fairly open about it all on some other forums.   There is just enough bounce/tug for it to work with a Kadee;  in theory both couplers Kadee couplers need to be opened together to uncouple reliably, but it just about pulls the trick with only moving one. 

Its not the only solution for Kadee, there are a number of other designs around. 

 

 

As for decoders, it really needs a decoder with a time limited output, so the motor cannot be left running (and stalled) for hours on end. Ideally one needs a decoder which can do the Kadee shuffle as well, so one function key will do the entire coupling sequence.   Fortunately this is possible with several European decoder makers, including CT, ESU, Zimo, and a few others. 

 

 

There are other older commercial uncouplers, Krois in Austria have been selling systems for HO for 10 years if not longer.   I developed my DIY versions for 2mm finescale in 2007 to 2008.

 

 

- Nigel

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Mine arrived today in the post; two motors, fine wire, resistors, thread and a small piece of heat shrink, plus the most comprehensive instruction sheet.  Just need the time to try one out.  The decoder I'm fitting to a J15 has the outputs so I might give it a try...

 

The motor is miniscule...

 

post-2484-0-19285300-1427204352_thumb.jpg

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My attempt at something similar in 7mm. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80606-dcc-uncoupling-7mm-kadee-style/

 

Note that the O gauge coupler made by Kadee has evolved and is not like the 4mm version any more in that the return spring on the knuckle is 'enclosed' and the shape of the knuckle lip is slightly different.

 

I have just tried buying some of the motors from Rolf Eichenseher,  Precimodels web site in Switzerland in Euros as it works out cheaper by a few quid but there seems to be a problem with his PayPal account. Will try again shortly.

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My attempt at something similar in 7mm. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80606-dcc-uncoupling-7mm-kadee-style/

 

Note that the O gauge coupler made by Kadee has evolved and is not like the 4mm version any more in that the return spring on the knuckle is 'enclosed' and the shape of the knuckle lip is slightly different.

 

I have just tried buying some of the motors from Rolf Eichenseher,  Precimodels web site in Switzerland in Euros as it works out cheaper by a few quid but there seems to be a problem with his PayPal account. Will try again shortly.

My paypal payment went through with no problem.  Good luck

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Has anyone here actually fitted any of these to their locos yet?  I'd very much like to hear how they got on and whether it all worked fine or not.  I'm keen to try this out but as a novice bodger, with few if any DCC skills ,I would like to hear how others got on first.

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Sorry, not had much chance to play and try these out but its on my list of things to do.

 

I have been thinking about how to adapt my go at DCC uncoupling using Kadee couplers and using the Precimodels motor instead of the servo. The one thing I don't like is the way the trip pin is used in my case to actuate the knuckle and it suddenly dawned on me that removing the bent part of the trip pin so only a short stub is left and a small micro wheel added to it with its circumference is slightly greater than the distance the operating wire need to move fully open the knuckle. Simple. 

 

It will look a lot tidier, easy to fit and the operating wire will be only slightly off the centre line of the coupler by the radius of the wheel. This means its easier to compensate for the swing of the coupler head either side when going around curves.

 

I will get to this as soon as possible using my servo and also a new installation using the Precimodels motors.

 

Wont be this weekend as my playing day, Sunday, is taken up with a visitor wanting to see what the ECoS can do when coupled up to a PC, RR&Co and a 7mm layout. He has bought a ECoS and wants to explore its capabilities and using Tortoise Point motors and the ESU Switch Pilot.

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