Horsetan Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 (edited) In the last edition of the price list, the axles are still there, in both 1/8" and 2mm dia. The jig costs £11.50..... Edited July 26, 2015 by Horsetan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 A small update... The gearbox is assembled, driving wheels quartered and fitted, CSB's threaded through, and motor wired to the pickups from the trailing bogie. In that state, the loco ran smoothly and wobble free, so I fitted the coupling rods. The High Level gearbox employed in this has a grub screw on the gear on the axle, so I can switch between 'rolling' and 'powered' with ease. 3 sheets of lead have been added to the insides of each tank, which puts the centre of mass just behind the rear driver. There is room for more weight at the front between the frames, and if I drill out the resin boiler more I can add some liquid lead in there. Tonight the Bristol S4 meeting was held at Gordon's so I took it along and put it round the test track. The balance of the CSBs looked good, the pickups worked well and I'm sure will be excellent when combined with wipers on the driving wheels. There is a slight bind at the moment, and the lack of torsion beam on the motor makes its presence felt. A tip was also given that when using a gearbox with a grub screw to put a flat on the axle so that it can bite that rather than try and skew the gear - which may explain why my chassis rolls more freely than it runs under power at the moment, If that doesn't work I will open the coupling rod holes out a tad - I purposefully left them pretty tight on the crankpins initially. Less is more, I can't put it back... So it isnt perfect - but very good for the first roll with rods on. I'll hopefully post some photos tomorrow (or later today by the time I click the post button...) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 Oh, and while initial tests will be DC, I am currently thinking of getting a Zimo MX621 for it, though I must admit my DCC gen is a year or 2 out of date... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Well I've been diagnosing the bind, and it appears that it is actually the motor! (Mashima 1420). Unfortunately I didnt test it before shortening 1 end of the drive shaft and fitting the worm, though I have a worm puller so removing it hasnt been an issue. When running it by itself it binds though, and when power is removed it sumersaults itself through 180 degrees. It gets very warm too. As I say, I've already modded it a bit though so I'm not sure if Chris (Mr High Level) would/could take it back, but my initial priority is to fit my other one and see whether I can get the chassis running well! Progress at least... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 So I thought I should show current progress, photos tell 1000 words and I havent posted any for a while... Firstly the oldest one, which proved that the loco ran, but before any weight was added or coupling rods... (and before my motor issue mentioned in my last post...) Then I added weight - 3 layers of lead in each tank. It isnt quite as heavy as I'd like yet, but there is room for a bit more and the boiler is yet to be hollowed out to allow for liquid lead in there. Then 2 views showing the CSBs, gearbox and torque reactor. These 2 are hot off the press, I've done some fettling and the unit rolls beautifully. The replacement motor is all fitted any raring to go, and will be tested once this post (and an Ilkley update) have been done... The torque reactor goes through another handrail knob, and seems to be doing its job admirably (allowing the gearbox axle to move up and down with the CSB suspension, but not allowing the gearbox to rotate around the axle). 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Woop! It runs nicely - a few pauses due to loss of pickups, so the next jobs are to add more weight and the driving wheel pickups - but there are no discernible tight spots or binding going on and none of the crankpin nuts were worked loose during the test. I deem it a success! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) Well here goes a gamble - I updated to Windows 10 (I was on 8 which was only useable with add on toolbars and things so I thought I had nothing to lose) and while most of it seems fine it does seem to have removed photo studio 6 for me. This is no bad thing, as while it did the job it did take its time and was clunky. The photos here were altered in GIMP, which while letting me choose by quality it didnt let me choose by image resolution, that I could see... Anyway,the brake hangers have been assembled. These currently have my lace making pin to slot in the tube but also the slot on the bracket to locate in the slot. I may yet file off the latter if it proves to be too difficult to install or remove the brake gear, but I thought Id leave it there for now. I can always remove it later, but if I removed it now I can't put it back... All 4 assembled: One in place in its tube: I have soldered in the cross members, and placed the brake pull rod and pull rod cranks and now have more decisions to make! Having got the brake shoes clipping on and off, I need to work out a method for the rear joint of the pull rod to become free. (The joint through which there is a lace making pin in the photo below): I so far have 2 ideas in mind: 1 option is to assemble the joint with the lace making pin a joint, so that the brake gear can hinge down. That allows the wheelsets to drop out, but it doesnt allow the brake gear to be removed from a running chassis for debug, or painting. Option 2 is to open up one side in the hole through the pull rod, so that it is an interference fit over the lace making pin. That way it could clip on and off. Any other suggestions from the house? I must say I am not 100% convinced by the rear of the pull rod. It lacks the screw adjustor in the rear section of the pull rod, which noticeably changes the look of the pull rod in that area. I might be able to get away with filing notches in the pull rod, but it is visibly a hex shape in photos. Also the pull rod crank on the right hand side (as shown in my photo) has the crank to the pull rod and the crank to the cylinder as a single piece, but looking at photos the nearest bit only goes up to the cylinder. This can easily be altered though as there are spare pull rod cranks on the etch so I can modify a couple... Edited for a spelling I'd already corrected once... Edited August 6, 2015 by Jub45565 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Another option is that if I do sort out the screw adjuster on the pull rod, then the hex part could be attached to the crank end with a rod entering it from the clip on section around the wheels. I think initially I will build it as is, using option 2 from my last post, and then with it detachable I can assess how it looks and upgrade it later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trustytrev Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 Hello Pete, I noticed in post #57 the your driving wheel does not appear to be a bevelled rim type. trustytrev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 Hmm, cheers Trev... When I ordered them I hadn't got many decent photos clearly showing them so took a punt. I've since got the lms journal preview edition among other things & yes clearly they should be bevelled. Being really a pre Stanier design, although accredited to him, I thought that they probably wouldn't have had them. Oh well, I have some Crab wheels if I can find a proper source. I knew I was making everything able to drop out for a reason ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trustytrev Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Hello, I think Gibson do some Stanier wheels with the same number of spokes for one of the Stanier tanks.They are in the 5'6" to 5'7" range if I remember correctly. part number 4866ST. trustytrev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Thanks for the part number - the lack of these in the Ultrascale catalogue is probably another reason I concluded that they mustnt be bevelled! Oh well, a 6 month wait will be saved I suppose, though I might yet still use Ultrascales on the bogie. I have a couple aimed at Ivatt tank pony trucks which off the top of my head I think are the same fellas. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 So, the current state of play!: For the pull rod crank, the instructions say that 2 of the little arms are used on the left hand side, and both the L cranks on the right hand side to reach up to the brake cylinder. Looking at photos though, it isnt really an L crank. The crank down to the pull rod is behind the crank across to the brake cylinder. The etch includes more 'little' cranks than necessary, so I used one of those for the rear and modified one of the L brackets so the front section could be double thickness, with only the rear of the 2 reaching down to the pull rod. The next jobs on the cards are to fit the buffers (one done so far, but it is a bit wonky so needs reflowing - the joys of soldering at least. The rear sand boxes also need fitting. However, they are too square as supplied and wont fit properly on the frame as it collides with the detail etch above the pull rod crank pivot rod. I will fettle the rear of the boxes to more closely resemble the prototype and then fit them over the pegs I have attached to the frames. The other castings have been fitted over pegs too, to aid their structural integrity. (I can understand that the sand boxes have been given more meat at the rear to help with structural integrity too...). I have fitted the front frame extensions, and this shows that the smokebox bottom is too short on the resin casting. The front of the smokebox is in about the right place with respect to the corner of the frame extension, but the lower part of the smokebox should go almost as far. The frame extensions also have prominent rivets which I think will need replicating. I havent tackled the screw adjuster in the brake pull rod yet either, but with the way I have modified them so that the brake gear is removeable it means that I can look at this sub assembly whenever... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edward66 Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I always liked the look of these engines but from what I've read they were not very popular with enginemen. 41900/1/3/4 were sent to Lancaster to operate the Lancaster-Morecambe-Heysham line while the electric sets were being replaced and the power supply was altered. They were augmented by 41221 a bit later. 41904 was stored at Lancaster Green Ayre shed for some time but did not find another home or purpose and left the dept. for scrap, I don't have the date for that. It sat there with 47639 which also went for scrap, the Jinty was interesting in that it didn't appear to have vacuum brakes and was fitted with three link couplings. I believe the other 2ps did find another home but I'm not sure about that. They were allegedly designed by Stanier but I understand it was really Lemon who was responsible for them. I have a kit built one which I bought on e-bay a few years ago [Jidenco?] which had the ugly slightly tapered stovepipe chimney which these engines originally had. I think they were replaced with the much nicer ones not very long after they were built but I have no idea exactly when. What chimney did you get for yours Jub45565? I need to get a replacement for the stovepipe. Edward Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Hi Edward, Thanks for the info - I was aware that a few of them congregated in Lancaster but hadn't tied up the reason, and that makes sense. It is strange that a solitary one lingered on in the Tewkesbury direction for a few years longer than the rest! I agree the later chimney suited the locos much better, I think they were fitted as renewals became necessary during the 40s. The Chimney came as part of the kit - some of the castings used as from the Alan Gibson range but most are done by London Road themselves. Whenever I have dealt with John Redrup he has been very helpful. There is a 'contact us' form on the LRM website here: http://traders.scalefour.org/LondonRoadModels/contact-us/ I think I'm settled on doing 41903 (though I will be ignoring a few of the dents and bent steps it had gained, I think it would look wrong on a model if that makes sense). The build is coming together nicely and it won't be long before I'll have to find a source of lining! Cheers, Pete Cheers, Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edward66 Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Thanks for the chimney info Pete, I will try them. I have a feeling that 41903 had LMS style sans serif numerals for a while and was unlined, 1900/1/4 were lined out if my memory serves me right. Edward Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 Hi Edward, Unfortunately there is a photo in the LMS Journal Preview edition (while has a very nice article on these locos) which shows 41903 lined in August 1957. There is also a picture of ebay currently which it a bit blurred, and undated, but also shows lining: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191557807799?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I know there were a couple unlined towards the end, but I do actually like the lining so will put the effort into doing in rather than taking the easy way out, on this occasion! I havent made any progress for a bit, but I did order the Gibson bevelled wheels today and am just sitting down to reprofile the sand boxes now. Once I have done these and stuck them on (hopefully all tonight) I will assess the chassis to see whether there is any further work I need to do before painting that sub-assembly. Cheers, Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 Very interested in the bogie arrangement. Could you use rubbing pads/plungers to pass the power to the main collectors? martin Watch this space! I had a good day at Scaleforum yesterday (I'm not sure my wallet or bank manager enjoyed the experience as much, but ho hum. I can't take it with me :-O ) and saw Will L with a lovely LNER Atlantic tank, which while not split axle did transmit the bogie pickups via plungers and a rubbing pad. A trip to the Alan Gibson stand resulted in a packet of plungers, and hopefully I'll find some time to play with them. I am happy with the current arrangement in terms of running quality, but the pickup wires tethering the bogie and the need for a plug and socket to allow the bogie to be removed is something I'm not too happy with on reflection... I did make a bit of progress with some detailing on Saturday too so I really should upload some progress photos! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 So here we have the current state of play - I think I have finished soldering, other than for sorting out the bogie pickup arrangement as mentioned above (but in no way yet actioned...). The boiler is not yet fixed in placed, though the fittings are fixed to it. Before fixing the boiler I am fettling the valve chest to fit, which sits covering the chassis fixing nut. Once the boiler is fixed I can then add the boiler detailing - ejector on the left hand side and push pull gear on the right. These locos were not push pull fitted when built, and had a handrail on the right hand side of the smokebox. I have got photos of 6408 after push pull fitting which still has the handrail in place, and of 41908 (ie the same loco, later in life) without the handrail. I don't have a photo of the front right of 41903 at any stage of its life to see whether the handrail was present on this loco! What is quite prominent is (what I think is) the control gear for the sanders, on the front of the tanks. It looks to have quite a prominent lid, but I am hoping that a piece of 20 thou plasticard suitably chamfered, with some very thin wire disappearing round the corner, will look the part. Plus of course there are the sanding feed tubes but I will wait until I have altered the bogie pickup arrangement before doing anything further with the chassis, which also needs the driving wheel balance weights adding. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 Further to that I am yet to find a BR era loco with the RHS smokebox handrail, so it will be left off... it is certainly easier to retro fit than retro remove, as well as being quicker... ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted September 23, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 23, 2015 No handrail on 41903 later on - photo of it stored, probably ready for scrap. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Lovely looking model I must say. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Thanks Simon, I have just had a test run with my new bogie pickup solution (as noted in post #68) and this works a treat. There is a bit of a collision issue at present between the brake hanger and the coupling rod, so that's the next area to fettle, and then I will crack on with some more detailing. The last few weeks have been pretty hectic, and the next few are similarly chaotic, but there is the potential of a small window of opportunity this weekend so hopefully I can make and document some progress! Cheers, Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Has this got to paint yet? I am looking forward to seeing the finished artical. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Hi Peter, Thanks for giving it (me!) a bit of a kick - to be fair I need the weather to improve a bit before I can paint it, but the build did enter limbo a bit. It runs very well, but there are a couple of dimensions out, which mean that the smokebox detailing doesnt all quite want to sit where it should. While looking at what was going on, I noticed a far more (to my eyes) glaring issue in that the cab opening should be far more equal each side of the doors than it is! Having but some thought into it, I am going to get it finished from here rather than trying to do anything too drastic, but in having it on one side a few other projects seem to have taken over. I'll try and rekindle it if I have any time over the weekend and get some progress made! Cheers, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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