Busch Feldbahn - anyone with practical experience of this?

[The White Rabbit]

Have any members experience with this system? Using the search facility throws up various references, but they seem to be 'look what Busch have for sale now' rather than 'I've used this and found...'. I've bought some bits and plan to build a small layout but would appreciate hearing from anyone else who's been there, done that, already. It's really the electrical and mechanical side I could do with some help on, from basics such as how easy it is to solder wires to the track without melting it & does Peco Z Gauge track work with the Busch setrack, to how the DCC system works and whether anyone's developed a more flexible system of coupling vehicles together. 

[Sir Madog]

The Busch HOf Feldbahn is rather a proprietary system, not really designed to match up with any other brand. The Locos are equipped with a magnet to improve adhesion. For that purpose, the Busch track has a thin metal strip integrated into the track, which other brands don´t have. Some folks have either used a wire or metal strips put below Marklin or Peco track to achieve that effect, but it is quite a tedious task. Given the low weight, the magnet seems to be mandatory to achieve some sort of traction.

 

The Busch train is running on 3V (!) and requires a special controller. The Busch power pack does not allow for a speed control, just forward or reverse. Busch offers a DCC decoder, which is wired between your command station and the track, not put in the loco. The locos can be equipped with one of those tiny Z scale decoders, but you need to hardwire them. Performance is brilliant.

 

The points have been "points" for criticism. The point levers are known to be too fragile and can break off easily.

[PhilJ W]

I'm contemplating building a micro-layout using this system. There is a magnetic strip made to replace the metal strip used in the Faller road system, this could possibly be used with Peco track to give adhesion.

[The White Rabbit]

Busch offers a DCC decoder, which is wired between your command station and the track, not put in the loco. The locos can be equipped with one of those tiny Z scale decoders, but you need to hardwire them. Performance is brilliant.

 

The points have been "points" for criticism. The point levers are known to be too fragile and can break off easily.

 

I did wonder how much difference this made to running - I would like to do better than just forward, reverse and off, so it's something I wondered if others had personal experience of. Any recommendations on decoders? 

 

Thanks for the warning re points - I shall be cautious.

 

  

 

There is a magnetic strip made to replace the metal strip used in the Faller road system, this could possibly be used with Peco track to give adhesion.

 

 

That's along the lines of what I was thinking, I've seen http://www.goldenvalleyhobbies.com/index.php?page=product&prodID=2436&catID=3036 and thought it might be a way of using Peco flexitrack with this system, both for more flexibility on curves and to save some money on track. Mind you, getting hold of Z gauge track's not easy, two (large-ish) local model shops haven't got any and (understandably) don't want to order a boxful for a sale of one or two lengths. 

 

 

 

I have bought the forestry starter set and some extra pieces of track and wagons. The set has been unpacked onto the desk and tested - I noticed the slow speed running of the loco (very authentic) however I thought the curves were not quite 45 degrees, on my first assembly of a circle I thought there was a bit missing, to form the oval at all I had to 'slacken' the joins to get some extra curvature. 

[PhilJ W]

The tape I was talking of is a lot cheaper. E-bay item # 160633781506.

[Butler Henderson]

The original release had plain track which was place on top of steel sheets, nice and rusty after a while!

[JimO]

My Dolfriog uses HOf Busch Feldbahnon the upper levl as shown in OO9 News Dec 2014. In exhibition use I always have a spare loco or two as I have found them a bit finnicky and you really need to keep the track surface very clean. In my experience the locos with connection rods between the wheels are a bit more reliable than the others.

The steel strip between the rails is mainly to provide magnetic adhesion in order to improve electrical contact rather than pulling power.

I use a 1.5v DC transformer from a well known high street electrical components shop to power things rather than battery. The Busch controller has an input for this on the side. In use the locos run at a fairly realistic speed from this voltage.

[akirkby]

The following video shows a rather nice Feldbahn layout - https://youtu.be/demHuzZG_pU, there is some more information here http://www.stummiforum.de/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=120830&p=1340246#p1340246 about how the locos were converted to DCC etc (it's in German but Google translate can help :-) ).

 

I recently purchased some 'real' Feldbahn Flexi-track, made by Technomodell http://www.pmt-modelle.de/2011/seiten/56603.html ,not the cheapest but it does look very good. It doesn't have the metal strip built in but the shop owner I was speaking to also suggested the Faller Car System Guide Wire method. He was aware of people using it successfully. Something else I had thought about was purchasing a strip of the rubber magnet - plenty of choices on eBay. The only downside to this is that the trackbed would then become magnetic and this could cause issues if you get any metal filings near it...

[JimO]

My Dolfriog uses HOf Busch Feldbahnon the upper levl as shown in OO9 News Dec 2014. In exhibition use I always have a spare loco or two as I have found them a bit finnicky and you really need to keep the track surface very clean. In my experience the locos with connection rods between the wheels are a bit more reliable than the others.

The steel strip between the rails is mainly to provide magnetic adhesion in order to improve electrical contact rather than pulling power.

I use a 1.5v DC transformer from a well known high street electrical components shop to power things rather than battery. The Busch controller has an input for this on the side. In use the locos run at a fairly realistic speed from this voltage.

Apologies but on checking, this is actually a 3v DC power input available from Maplin as item number XX09K

[edcayton]

The following video shows a rather nice Feldbahn layout - https://youtu.be/demHuzZG_pU, there is some more information here http://www.stummiforum.de/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=120830&p=1340246#p1340246 about how the locos were converted to DCC etc (it's in German but Google translate can help :-) ).

 

I recently purchased some 'real' Feldbahn Flexi-track, made by Technomodell http://www.pmt-modelle.de/2011/seiten/56603.html ,not the cheapest but it does look very good. It doesn't have the metal strip built in but the shop owner I was speaking to also suggested the Faller Car System Guide Wire method. He was aware of people using it successfully. Something else I had thought about was purchasing a strip of the rubber magnet - plenty of choices on eBay. The only downside to this is that the trackbed would then become magnetic and this could cause issues if you get any metal filings near it...

 

Thanks for the link to the video. The rod drive loco's are attractive, and they seem to handle a pretty steep gradient.

 

Ed

[boxcar_jim]

 It's really the electrical and mechanical side I could do with some help on, from basics such as how easy it is to solder wires to the track without melting it & does Peco Z Gauge track work with the Busch setrack, to how the DCC system works and whether anyone's developed a more flexible system of coupling vehicles together. 

I am currently building a brickworks micro-layout using HOf track and mechanisms. I have used a mixture of Busch turnouts and hand built plain track (2mm finescale copper clads and Peco code 60 "Z scale" rail), the Peco rail is a slightly different profile to the Busch but is compatible. I have had no problems with the Busch sleepers melting during soldering. 

 

On the hand built track I have used the DCC Concepts "Power Base" system to lay under the track, this works just as well as the Busch track under test, despite being slightly further from the loco's magnet. This could equally be used with Marklin or Peco Z scale track or the slightly nicer looking but expensive PMT Technomodel HOf track, as the track is just glued to the top of the metal plates which are then hidden under scenery.

 

 

The Busch train is running on 3V (!) and requires a special controller. The Busch power pack does not allow for a speed control, just forward or reverse. Busch offers a DCC decoder, which is wired between your command station and the track, not put in the loco. The locos can be equipped with one of those tiny Z scale decoders, but you need to hardwire them. Performance is brilliant.

 

The points have been "points" for criticism. The point levers are known to be too fragile and can break off easily.

I had looked at the Busch "DCC decoder" and rejected it, as it ignores most of the advantages of DCC by essentially applying 3v DC to the track! I was planning to install CT Electronik micro decoders in my locos - but haven't done so yet, but will need to shortly as the layout is getting nearer completion. I'd be interested to know if anyone else has done this? Are the tiny 3v motors Busch uses coreless or standard motors (and therefore need different settings in the decoder)? If anyone has done this have they just relied on the max voltage regulation in CV5 or have they installed a voltage dropping resistor / voltage divider circuit?

 

In terms of the Busch points I have also found the levers and tie bars fragile. I have attempted to overcome this by powering them under the baseboard by Fawn Electronics Little Jemmy motors - these have a clutch mechanism to prevent undue stress on the fragile plastic tie bar, as well as having a micro switch for frog polarity switching. Time will tell how effective this has been!

 

James

[Alex Duckworth]

I've just finished a small steam outline loco in HOf (photo below) and I would like to try the Technomodell track - is there a dealer in this country that will either stock or import it?

 

Alex

 

[James Hilton]

Exquisite Alex - an amazing model! 

 

This is my effort:

A modified Busch Decauville chassis and scratchbuild Hunslet style body in 006.5

Edited June 21, 2017 by James Hilton

[Alex Duckworth]

Exquisite Alex - an amazing model! 

 

This is my effort:

A modified Busch Decauville chassis and scratchbuild Hunslet style body in 006.5

 

Very nice too James, you've caught the Hunslet style rather well there. Have you (or any of the other Narrow Planet team) thought about an etch for the Busch extended axle chassis? Fly cranks, rods, single and double slide bars and crossheads and an assortment of valve gear links would make conversions a fairly simple matter. I'd buy a couple for starters.

 

Alex

[James Hilton]

You mean like this...

An experiment on a Busch NS2 chassis... very fiddly, and only the Mk1 version...

The model won't be a kit, but the development work on the chassis may find it's way onto a production model or accessory pack.

[bertiedog]

I was thinking of a small Z gauge based narrow gauge line, on an existing layout, and wondered about the Busch equipment, but I see it runs on 3 volts, giving no speed control on their own power unit, although others say they will run on less via a suitable controller. The advantage seems the steel strip under the track for helping pickup, decent steady running as shown on the youtube videos, but the cost of the track and points seem a bit high, even from Germany. The locos seem more reasonable in cost.

A question, is the track steel rail section? or nickel silver, I fully know the strip underneath is steel.

And has anyone here run them on DC controllers?

Thoughts are for home produced track with steel strip underneath, or between each sleeper under the ballast, a whole point could be built on a steel plate as the base, to keep the magnets in action.

Stephen

[James Hilton]

Worth joining the NGRM forum Stephen... Peter has a thread called Oresome H0f where he has modified a Gaugemaster W to run his Feldbahn stuff.

[ColinK]

I've found space for a feldbahn, but height is limited.

 

Please can anyone tell me the height from the bottom of the track to the top of a loco or coach?

[dana]

Walters.com sells the Busch narrow gauge 2ft in their scenery section . Unpowered track (plastic).

[jameswaterfield]

Re the decoders. I may be stupid but I cannot find anywhere an English guide as to how to set one up. Anybody know please?

 

Many thanks

 

James

[Stevelewis]

For  info  WINCO  Model Railways  in Winchester  stock  Busch  Feldbahn  range

 

Apologies  if  this  has  already been  mentioned

[James Hilton]

I have modified a Gaugemaster Model W by using a lower voltage AC transformer - the locos run beautifully slowly on this now.

The rails are nickel silver.

I've not got it to hand to measure the size of them.

[ColinK]

A feldbahn starter set arrived today. Looks like a 'coffee table' layout project will be starting soon.

[ColinK]

Today I started building my feldbahn layout.  The line includes several gradients. I’m wondering how to transition the track from flat to uphill.  Bending the track to make the start (and finish) of the gradient looks difficult given the plate under the rails. Does anyone have any suggestions?

[The White Rabbit]

I've not tried it, but unless anyone's got a better idea, I'd cut through the magnetic plate, then try bending the rails (as gently as possible). 

 

I'm a bit envious Colin, I still have the enthusiasm and intent for my project but my modelling schedule has been messed up bigtime by 'real life'. The perils of belonging to the sandwich generation...   Apologies if you already have started one I've not spotted but any chance of a thread, either in the narrow gauge section or the projects/workbench section?