Pragmatic Pre-Grouping - Mikkel's Workbench

[Mikkel]

Many thanks Nick.  The new bunker does make a big difference in terms of giving it an earlier look, I think.

 

I couldn't resist the temptation to splash out on a bit of 'jewellery' in order to tart it up improve it further. Finney/Brassmasters chimney, the rest is from Alan Gibson. Do you think they will refuse being stuck to a Hornby Railroad loco body? 

 

 

Edited July 25, 2020 by Mikkel

[jcm@gwr]

21 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

Many thanks Nick.  The new bunker does make a big difference in terms of giving it an earlier look, I think.

 

I couldn't resist the temptation to splash out on a bit of 'jewellery' in order to tart it up improve it further. Finney/Brassmasters chimney, the rest is from Alan Gibson. Do you think they will refuse being stuck to a Hornby Railroad loco body? 

 

 

 

Stick 'em on in the dark, they'll never notice!

[57xx]

They look very nice. Are you going to polish the relevant parts up?

[Mikkel]

29 minutes ago, jcm@gwr said:

 

Stick 'em on in the dark, they'll never notice!

 

But what will the Unions say? 

 

4 minutes ago, 57xx said:

They look very nice. Are you going to polish the relevant parts up?

 

Yes, I think I'll go for polished safety valve cover and copper cap, but with a painted dome, as some photos of early pannier-fitted locos seem to show.

[Miss Prism]

I can't find any pics of Pannier 2721s with Wolverhampton bunkers. I suspect they never received them.

 

[MrWolf]

Interesting project, I have been inspired to dig out my books as I have a couple of Hornby 2721s, along with various bits of dead ones. They're later models with seperate handrails etc and I have been thinking about upgrading them for a while now. I also have a 14xx or two, they need backdating to 1930s condition. One might just have to become a late surviving 517. 

It won't happen overnight, I have a heap of other jobs to do. The main one being to get on with building the layout and post it on here!

[Mikkel]

6 hours ago, Miss Prism said:

I can't find any pics of Pannier 2721s with Wolverhampton bunkers. I suspect they never received them.

 

 

I'm not sure what you mean there, Miss P.

 

This is what I'm aiming for: 

 

 

 

[Mikkel]

4 hours ago, MrWolf said:

Interesting project, I have been inspired to dig out my books as I have a couple of Hornby 2721s, along with various bits of dead ones. They're later models with seperate handrails etc and I have been thinking about upgrading them for a while now. I also have a 14xx or two, they need backdating to 1930s condition. One might just have to become a late surviving 517. 

It won't happen overnight, I have a heap of other jobs to do. The main one being to get on with building the layout and post it on here!

 

Sounds good. There are certainly issues with the Hornby 2721 body, but some are not that hard to address really. Compromises will be necessary though, e.g. for my ca. 1912 version the Hornby panniers appear to be 1 mm too high above the footplate.

 

Edited July 26, 2020 by Mikkel
Spelling

[Miss Prism]

49 minutes ago, Mikkel said:

I'm not sure what you mean there, Miss P.

This is what I'm aiming for: 

 

Ah, ok. What confused me was the chopping off of the top bit of the Finecast 1854 bunker, so I didn't realise you would be reinstating it, albeit  possible in slightly different style.

 

[gwr517]

I have been waiting for the next posts and this will be another worthwhile addition to your fleet. What you found re sizes of models from different producers is a reminder to all modellers check everything! I agree with JCM@GWR and while some time ago, working on a very tempremental boat motor I decided to hide the tools as I went aboard so the motor wouldn't know what was about to happen !! The jewellary will be well recieved. Doug.

[Mikkel]

Thanks Doug, I do like that story about the boat motor. I assume that the trick worked, or are you posting this adrift at sea somewhere North of Pitcairn?!

 

The 2721 has been left at home whilst we are taking a break in the wilds of Denmark (with a green light from the health authorities). I've brought a couple of simple kits for those early mornings whilst my wife is still a-snoring. 

 

I've started this Lasercut weighbridge office kit from Rail Model. It's described as a “reproduction of a GWR weighbridge”, but does not say which one. A bit of research revealed that it is a reasonably accurate representation of the one at Leckhampton, a drawing of which appears in the EricPlans volume on GWR and LMS structures (probably the basis for the kit).

 

 

[Mikkel]

Some photos of the weighbridge build.  The kit is nicely cut, with the brickwork replicating that on the EricPlans drawing.

 

 

 

A dry assembly showed that the joins aren’t mitred, leading to this result.  I assume this is a normal and probably necessary compromise with lasercut kits?

 

 

 

‘I can fix that!’ says I, and so keenly filed the corners for a better join.

 

 

 

It worked, up to a point. While not perfect, the joins are a lot better now.

 

 

 
But, er, it seems I was too enthusiastic with the file. During handling, the edges began to crumble. I’ll have to deal with that when I get back home, where I have my materials. Trust me to complicate things!

 

 

 
Anyway, I’ll need to detail and paint the interior before adding roof and windows. The kit has the fireplace nicely done...

 

 

... , but I’ll need to fashion the rough outlines of the weighing machine. I found this page interesting, describing restoration of the weighbridge at Bishop's Castle: http://bcrailway.co.uk/the-weighbridge-project/.

 

That site also includes the following photo of the visible part of the mechanism, which is difficult to find on the site so I am taking the liberty of hotlinking to it: http://bcrailway.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/P1010359-624x468.jpg

 

Edited July 29, 2020 by Mikkel

[Simond]

Mikkel,

 

I'm surprised by the corners.  I normally cut “combs” of interlocking bricks on my lasercut walls (see my engine shed, and my laser thread).  It is challenging to get it right, and I’m a base amateur when compared with those who do it for a living...  Do have a look at Phil Healy-Pierce’ work on his Intentio website.  Mainly 7mm, but I believe he does do lesser scales

 

t’other option is to chamfer as you have done, but the etched mortar lines make it all very fragile as you have unfortunately discovered.   I guess soaking with sanding sealer or similar would make the MDF a bit tougher for the sanding of the chamfer.

 

atb

Simon

[BrushType4]

Thanks Simon,

 

I think that is a very early Rob Burage kit. I've just checked the original file and it hasn't got the 'comb' type corners that are increasingly becoming the standard on new kits. At the time, this was state of the art and very well received and certainly piqued my interest and ultimate path into producing my own kits.

 

 

Mikkel,

I hope that your modification to the walls hasn't made the exterior walls too small. Andy Pearce is the owner of the railmodel and I'm sure he would supply replacements if needed.

 

I would suggest, fixing the walls as designed in the kit an then use a very fine file to put the mortar lines on the end parts. 

 

[MrWolf]

Bevelling or breaking the edge on MDF isn't a nice job (We usually refer to it as medium density firewood, even though it makes lousy firewood) you have to support it. Easiest way to do that with something that thin is to clamp it to a steel rule (masking tape will do) so that the edge you want to Bevel is flush with the edge of the rule, then file from the "inside" of the Bevel outwards ONLY, until you hit the edge of the rule. Glue your walls together at 90 degrees and let it set hard. Only then can you clean up any fluffy bits on the outside of the corner. If the hateful godless "wood" flakes, you can at least stick it back down quickly and catch the damage. 

The only other thing I can say is be careful cutting and sanding MDF. We try to treat it with the same respect you would with asbestos cement board. The dust is truly horrible stuff.

All that said, I do find these laser cut buildings fascinating and was wondering what you are doing about window frames, laser cut plastic or etched brass?

[Simond]

Phil,

 

it had not occurred to me that the corners were supposed to butt, and the mortar lines adding.  I fell into the assumption trap...

 

atb

Simon

[Mikkel]

Many thanks gentlemen, very useful advice. I wanted to try out Lasercut kits and am clearly learning my lessons!

 

11 hours ago, Simond said:

 I normally cut “combs” of interlocking bricks on my lasercut walls (see my engine shed, and my laser thread).  

 

Thanks Simon, seeing yours and others' excellent structures was one reason I became interested in lasercut buildings. I had missed your dedicated thread on the topic though. I would have thought the combs became too fragile in 4mm scale, but looking at the Intentio 4mm kits that is evidently not the case.

 

10 hours ago, BrushType4 said:

I hope that your modification to the walls hasn't made the exterior walls too small. Andy Pearce is the owner of the railmodel and I'm sure he would supply replacements if needed.

 

I would suggest, fixing the walls as designed in the kit an then use a very fine file to put the mortar lines on the end parts. 

 

Thanks. I have been admiring the weighbridges in your range for some time, the 7mm GWR ones look superb. 

 

Yes with the chamfering the dimensions have changed a little, but I have modified the other components to suit. I'm not using the supplied base etc, as the structure will sit next to an etched Pooley weighbridge in place of this old Smiths card kit (assembled temporarily with Bluetack): 

 

 

7 hours ago, MrWolf said:

The only other thing I can say is be careful cutting and sanding MDF. We try to treat it with the same respect you would with asbestos cement board. The dust is truly horrible stuff.

 

Thanks Wolf, I did know of the general Formaldehyde issue but reading up on the dust is not pleasant. I won't do that again.  I like to tinker with kits, but this does not seem to be the medium for that sort of thing!

 

Edited July 30, 2020 by Mikkel

[Compound2632]

Looking at the artwork and the first photo showing the plain butt joint, it's clear that the end pieces don't have the correct quarter-bricks etc. for turning the corner, but the side pieces are the right thickness to fit these in, so evidently the idea was that the dedicated modeller would scribe the brickwork in, as @BrushType4 says.

Edited July 30, 2020 by Compound2632

[Mikkel]

This is the point where the wise modeller, who has actually worked on the bloody thing, keeps his mouth shut and moves on 

[MrWolf]

Well, despite my misgivings about "the devil's chipboard" I think it looks great and look forward to seeing the end result.

 

Note to self, must pull finger out and get my weighbridge built. I got an etched Pooley weighbridge cart plate from Model Signal Engineering. It's rather nicely made.

[MrWolf]

I have been wondering if anyone does a scale rendition of this notice:

[Buhar]

You could! A bit of tidying in GIMP or whatever, straighten, re-size to your scale and print at high resolution on photo paper. 

 

Alan

[MrWolf]

Good idea. Full size it's about 12"x18". I don't have a computer, but I know a few people who do.

[MikeOxon]

12 hours ago, MrWolf said:

I have been wondering if anyone does a scale rendition of this notice:

 

The GWR also did some nice cast bridge notices, like this one that I photographed on the Brecon and Monmouth Canal near Llangynidr many years ago (1985)

 

 

[PhilJ W]

There is a series of photographic reproductions of signs and posters called Tiny Signs and a notice, or something very similar to the above is in the range. They are reproduced photographically and only need to be cut out and glued in place.