MarkAustin Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 As in, I have a couple of these beasties needed for Cockett, and I'm thinking about operating them. Obviously, you cannot have and above-board tie bar as there's nothing to fix the other end to and it will just flap in the breeze. I don't, for good and sufficient reasons to do with baseboard design want to use a below board tie bar. I'm leaning to drilling a hole through the web of both the fixed and movable rail, feeding the operating wire through and soldering to the movable rail, possible after bending an "L" in it. Has anyone tried this, or, indeed, has anyone any better ideas than this.-- Mark Austin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 What type of motor or actuation are you planning to use? You might get away with a wire simply soldered directly to the underside of the rail. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkAustin Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 What type of motor or actuation are you planning to use? You might get away with a wire simply soldered directly to the underside of the rail. Manual lever frame and wire-in-tube, probably Modratek. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Manual lever frame and wire-in-tube, probably Modratek. Mark Solder a wire to the underside of the switch, solder a length of tube which is a close fit on the wire to a crank such that the tube will just reach to the top of the baseboard, and operate the crank via wire in tube. The tube will re-enforce the wire and keep it from flexing. I have two single switch trap points, both on the came turnout and worked together. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted April 28, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 28, 2015 Hi FineN trak do - if you ask, a catchpoint single blade kit, I used Wayne`s copper clad above baseboard tiebar and his "natty" plates and pivot hole scheme the bladeless end had a plate soldered to it to slide under the continious stock rail. works a treat I am sure using spigotless chairs on a base would enable a 9.42 mm gauge catch to be made up. Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkAustin Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 Hi FineN trak do - if you ask, a catchpoint single blade kit, I used Wayne`s copper clad above baseboard tiebar and his "natty" plates and pivot hole scheme the bladeless end had a plate soldered to it to slide under the continious stock rail. works a treat I am sure using spigotless chairs on a base would enable a 9.42 mm gauge catch to be made up. Robert Do you have a link. I couldn't find it on a web search. Mark A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 I believe this is it www.britishfinescale.com Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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