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Rapido/Locomotion Models GNR Stirling Single


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I quite liked the idea of some more GN six wheelers via the Diagram 3D kits but when I realised there was no underframe I thought that about as convenient as a coach kit without sides. It's not as if one can readily obtain or substitute an alternative 6W u/f of convincing appearance. It's not beyond me to make an underframe from variously sourced parts but it's a real nuisance to have to do so.

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Would the Brassmasters universal 6 wheel underframe do the job?

 

http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/cleminson_underframe.htm

 

Obviously, there is still the question of axleboxes and footboards etc, but it's a start

 

Cheers

 

J

 

I looked at this also but am a little daunted by the apparent complexity and soldering required (I have been "a beginner" for the last 60 years!). 

 

I have built two of the Diagram 3D bogie coaches, figuring that if I could build cardboard building kits, I could build the coach bodies.  One runs on Gresley bogies, whilst the other runs on MJT compensated bogies with 8' Fox cosmetic overlays - minimal soldering required and successfully accomplished.  I also used cut-down MJT trussing (but would make my own in future), with brass rod for gas cylinders and interiors, teaking (and toilet windows) as per the Mike Trice thread.  I found building these to be enjoyable and useful for developing both skills and experience.  I would like to try the 6 wheelers but am undecided as to the best way of tackling the underframes.  These Howlden coaches are narrow, which may limit sideplay. 

 

By coincidence, the Mousa Models brake 3rd kit was delivered today and looks good.  This will be my first resin kit and I had read of potential proplems with blow holes etc in this medium requiring filling and fettling but the mouldings are crisp and sharp, and free of such problems.  Most impressed by the way the body, roof and underframe clip together.

 

These are complete kits (less wheels) and will probably prove simpler and quicker to build than 3D but are considerably more expensive.  If Bill does release 6 wheelers, I would be seriously tempted - I believe he has previously posted a method of mounting the middle wheels on a 2mm tube free to slide across a 1mm axle.

 

So the situation regarding coaches for the GN Atlantic and forthcoming single is improving - no RTR yet but two different simple approaches to build Howlden GN stock.  I still live in hope that Locomotion will commission some 6 wheel bogie ECJS clerestories to go with their locos!

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Would the Brassmasters universal 6 wheel underframe do the job?

 

http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/cleminson_underframe.htm

 

Obviously, there is still the question of axleboxes and footboards etc, but it's a start

 

Cheers

 

J

 

Thanks for that suggestion which will be useful to some. I'm not at all convinced that Cleminson arrangements are always necessary. My D & S six wheelers which have one rocking outer axle and a floating centre wheelset tweaked to give more sideplay will actually cope with trainset second radius points at low speed if necessary, although they not normally faced with anything worse than 3 foot radius. If you want to build a very long six wheeler or your track is even worse than mine in terms of bad joints and unevenness I can see that steering outer wheelsets might assist, but running out of sideplay on the middle wheelset then potentially becomes the bigger worry.

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After receiving my APT-E just last week looks like I may have to add this to my collection. My only question is would it have been more viable to just make this as a loco with a double tender? and then with our without sound. 

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Same here.  I saw the APT at the Great British Train Show and as a result have ordered a Stirling.  I believe there has been a lot of discussion about retailing it as a package with both tenders but apparently Locomotion has resoundingly said NO.  Shame.  One wonders if it is the MBA sickness that seems to encroach into so many aspects of business today.  Specifically, their business school teaching says they will  get two sales, one of each tender arrangement, with this business model approach.  Instead, I suspect the reality is that for the most part they will only get one, but I believe that had they sold it with the two tenders at a reasonable price increase for the second tender, they would have got a lot of sales with that combination.  I remain a believer that 10% of something is a lot better than 100% on nothing.  But then what do I know know, i am just a Metallurgist.  

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I don't need two locos but would have liked it as a two tender pack or option to purchase separate tender.  Additional coaches were available for the APT and sound like they all sound out and it didn't even run with additional coaches !!! 

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I asked Locomotion models a while ago on this matter.

I followed up recently with a PM to see if any consideration had been given, and no response.

I'm holding off placing my order until I know what the plans are.

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If the DCC equipment is in the tender (as I suspect it will be given how small the boiler is) then supplying tenders means doubling the number of DCC chips required added expense for DCC users (especially expensive for those ordering sound fitted) and the amount of moaning that would come from people having to unplug the fiddly little plugs between loco and tender (assuming that's the chosen method) every time would be beyond belief, as much as a shame as it is i believe it would be hassle than it's worth to supply a two tender pack.

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Thanks for that suggestion which will be useful to some. I'm not at all convinced that Cleminson arrangements are always necessary. My D & S six wheelers which have one rocking outer axle and a floating centre wheelset tweaked to give more sideplay will actually cope with trainset second radius points at low speed if necessary, although they not normally faced with anything worse than 3 foot radius. If you want to build a very long six wheeler or your track is even worse than mine in terms of bad joints and unevenness I can see that steering outer wheelsets might assist, but running out of sideplay on the middle wheelset then potentially becomes the bigger worry.

 

I have a mixture of 6 wheelers. Some are D & S GNR types and use the kit arrangement. Some are on Brassmasters Cleminson etches and some are homemade using Comet etched internal bearings.

 

They all work but the Brassmasters one gives much smoother ride than the other arrangements and that is what I will use in any future construction.

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If the DCC equipment is in the tender (as I suspect it will be given how small the boiler is) then supplying tenders means doubling the number of DCC chips required added expense for DCC users (especially expensive for those ordering sound fitted) and the amount of moaning that would come from people having to unplug the fiddly little plugs between loco and tender (assuming that's the chosen method) every time would be beyond belief, as much as a shame as it is i believe it would be hassle than it's worth to supply a two tender pack.

That is a good point, hadn't thought of that !

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Simple solution to that. Just use proper electricity for operating your model railway instead of totally un-necessary digital mystification.

I have four control panels for my layout: three are DC and one is DCC. The latter used to be DC. Electricity is fed into all of them and I’m pretty sure that electricity comes out of all of them.

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Why can't an 8-pin (or even a 6-pin) socket be built into the underside of the chassis? Then swapping the blanking plug for a decoder should be easy.

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Why can't an 8-pin (or even a 6-pin) socket be built into the underside of the chassis? Then swapping the blanking plug for a decoder should be easy.

 

That's how  Scalextric do it with their slotcars.

Undo One screw take out the blanking plate and fit the digital plug in, do up the screw. Simple. Takes 10 seconds.

 

This is the bigger version for sedans, there is a smaller version for Formula type cars.

C8515.jpg

Edited by The Blue Streak
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Why can't an 8-pin (or even a 6-pin) socket be built into the underside of the chassis? Then swapping the blanking plug for a decoder should be easy.

 

Because we like to see lots of under frame detail that would get in the way.

 

That said, it should be possible to make fitting a decoder easier than it often is at the moment. A couple of easy to access screws to release part of the body moulding allowing access to the decoder socket should be all it needs.

 

Happy modelling.

 

Steven B.

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OK, if the tender is an integral electrical part, what about some 'unwired' second tenders - if desired you can swap the wiring from one tender to another. But I expect the cost of wiring to be small compared to overall model cost.

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The cornering issue is fine for me at present, my photo plank is all but straight, and Whitborough Quayside is 7' of straight line if the points are set right!

 

A roundy-round layout is planned, but that means sorting out my spare room, which means finding some spare time!

 

I do find the idea of multiple tenders intriguing, though doubtful. I did originally say I was going to plump for the Sturrock version as I saw her running in the 80s with a de-streamlined duck, but having recently cabbed the proper version, I'm now in two minds! I'll have to decide pretty darn soon as I'll be sticking my pre-order in (finally!)

 

For good measure, here are a couple of my photos of her in the Great Hall at the NRM in April this year, looking glorious!

 

post-7895-0-23278900-1464846714_thumb.jpg

post-7895-0-57863600-1464847049_thumb.jpg

post-7895-0-11199800-1464847203_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers

 

J

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Make sure your modelling the "racing stretch" at the moment she won't go around corners! see Rapidos latest newsletter.

 

Well, that's not entirely true! Read the caption... :>)

 

Right now the loco will go around a 22" (~4th) radius curve with scale appearing splashers. To get down to a #2 radius (a design requirement) we will likely have a second set of user-applied splashers that will allow more side-to-side movement on the lead bogie. Updates will be posted once we have finalized these parts.

 

Bill 

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There is an easy answer to this problem of only going in a straight line, think back to your maths lessons at school..

Now when you plot a graph, do you not join the dots together in little straight lines, which then plot out to make curves? So lay your track with short straights joined together to form a curve......

 

(I hope I'm not missing something here  :jester:)

 

Stewart

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