Hornby Gresley conversions

[Mallard60022]

Just started  my own, first, 'mostly only done by me' Gresley conversion, following Mr. Wright's BRM article and his support for me with a recent project using a Gresley donor but Bedford sides for a SR (Eastyleigh 50s conversion) Cafeteria Car.

I know loads of you have done these Gresley to other Gresley conversions, but I will just post a few pics to encourage others to have a go.

It really is not that daunting and I won't have to finish this off as it is a joint project with a mate who needs 'different Gresleys'. I'm doing the Comet sides, hacking the Hornby donor and fitting the sides.  All bits were supplied by my mate. All modelling materials are mine!

He has to do all the hard work, including the paining (well, probably!)

If anyone has any tips or advice on how to get good results with these conversions I would be grateful to receive that. (Not, don't do it ....... )

I'll post a couple of pics now and then some more in the next few days weeks

This is for a D114.

I hacked the donor, made up one set of sides and fitted that side this afternoon. The usual Evostick method (allows removal...see below*)

was employed.

 

I wanted to retain the superb Hornby end pipework and was successful. Unfortunately the train alarm gear was already slightly damaged but I think I can sort that with some nice, thin wire.

I did a slight reprofile of the ends and I hope Larry and Tony approve of the curvature?

 

I did make up the second side this evening in failing light. However I need to clarify a few things with my mate (e.g. *did he want hinges, handles, grab handles and commodes fitted) before I proceed as I need 'internal' access to the sides  if I need to do the hinges!

 

I'm hoping that the Comet drops do not need to be fitted as they are a bit 'chunky'. It would make the glazing fitting so much easier if they are not fitted and I don't think the drop apertures look too big, having studied the prototype's windows in a picture. Any thoughts on this?

I know that Larry would have done the whole thing to completion in an afternoon, but hey, I'm just a beginner!

Phil

Edited April 23, 2015 by Mallard60022

[MikeTrice]

You could model the droplights in the open (or dropped position) and cut an aperture in the glazing material so the droplights are effectively unglazed.

[Mallard60022]

Yes, I know that a couple of vents will need resetting; that damn camera is cruel!

 

The interior doesn't need hacking (it was already a brake interior) but might need repainting.

Discussions are underway as to whether we put the door grabs on now or after painting.

Roof mods to vent positions yet to be done.

 

It will be a 'layout' coach and the new owner will be doing almost everything else that needs doing so that he gets it as he requires. (I don't think I'm painting the sides on this one?)

For interest I have fitted commodes (0.45 brass wire and Bill Bedford fret for bending) and MJT Guard's Door Handles which are lovely little etches that I have used on  many other kit improvements and  plastic kit enhancement; Chivers Pigeon Van and an Isinglass version of the same diagram van).

 

For anyone that has not yet taken the saw to the plastic.......go on, have a go. I know this effort needs quite a lot of tidying up (e.g. the sides were a tad short for the donor and so the side ends could possibly need a little filler). It is good fun but does take almost as long as building (say) a Comet coach.

Phil

Edited April 14, 2015 by Mallard60022

[micklner]

I haven't tried the Comet sides , the MJT ones I have done are a perfect fit to the Hornby bodies  and have the hinge holes already etched as well. I would add any door furniture after painting personally. I think MJT  do a etch of the Alarm gear as well. The Tumblehome looks good too.

[Mallard60022]

Oh, I hadn't noticed the alarm gear etch.

I too have used MJT sides in the past, but one has to work with what one is given!

P

[jwealleans]

I don't think MJT do alarm gear for corridor carriages.

 

Don't forget the rainstrips above the doors, Phil - if you're doing this on teak, the cornice and rainstrips should be brown and they make a great difference to the appearance of the carriage. They're less obvious in BR colours but should still be there.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

...Don't forget the rainstrips above the doors, Phil - if you're doing this on teak, the cornice and rainstrips should be brown and they make a great difference to the appearance of the carriage...

This is very true of newly outshopped and recently cleaned coaches, and there are good colour photographs from the 1930s to prove it. My 'lazy modeller' observation is that after some time in traffic this feature matched the roof,  weathered to the dark grey with a hint of brown that I remember so well from BR days. And there is equally good colour photographic evidence form the 1930s to support finishing a coach in this condition too.

[Mallard60022]

I don't think MJT do alarm gear for corridor carriages.

 

Don't forget the rainstrips above the doors, Phil - if you're doing this on teak, the cornice and rainstrips should be brown and they make a great difference to the appearance of the carriage. They're less obvious in BR colours but should still be there.

Good job you are awake J. I'd carefully filed those off the original and conveniently forgotten them. Presumably small strips of plastistrutty stuff would do? Then maybe just rounded a bit with a glass fibre brush?

Many thanks for that tip.

Phil

Edit: I have adopted thge 34letterbetweenB & D  'Lazy Modeller' approach so I doubt that rainstrips will appear...................sorry!

Edited April 23, 2015 by Mallard60022

[Mallard60022]

Re. the alarm gear. The Hornby part and moulding is superbly moulded/fitted and impossible to replicate to such a standard. I'd use handrail knobs and wire but I've decided that looks really crude. Any tips anyone?

P 

[micklner]

There you go, a tad expensive though!! and lot of etched parts not used.

 

http://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt/2853.php

 

Re alarm gear spilt pins and 0.45mm brass flattened at both ends any good 

[Mallard60022]

There you go, a tad expensive though!! and lot of etched parts not used.

 

http://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt/2853.php

 

Re alarm gear spilt pins and 0.45mm brass flattened at both ends any good 

I'd never noticed that before.....

ah, split pins; hadn't thought of that. 

I think I've got some Comet 'tell tales' somewhere...but how to attach them, ummmmm?

I wonder if that King chappy has any ideas?

Fortunately I've got time to ponder this little challenge.

I wonder if very small brass pins with a wire across and overlapping at each end the top might do?

P

Edited April 15, 2015 by Mallard60022

[Middlesea John]

Have you any pictures of your Cafeteria car, Phil ?

[Mallard60022]

Apologies for delay in response. I hadn't noticed this question. Thanks for asking.

I'll bring it over either tomorrow or the following Thursday if I can make it. If not I'll get on with it and post some more pics.

Funnily enough I had dragged it out yesterday thinking I might  redo the roof details, but decided it was OK as it is!

I'm going to have to do the paint job as it's for me! I've found some suitable decals in an old collection as well so no excuses.

I did post some pics (I think) a long time back. As this Cafeteria Car is also a conversion of a Gresley as done by Eastleigh in the early 50s ('54),

I don't feel guilty about posting or repostingsome pics of the hack! 

 

Speak soon,

Phil

Edited April 22, 2015 by Mallard60022

[trw1089]

Great work Phil

 

You've inspired me to buy some Dia 114 BTK sides as I have lots if BCKs but no brake thirds. Was watching Mr Wright doing some sides on one of the Right Track videos this afternoon and I think I can do that. It's only the painting that is scaring me a little!

 

Cheers

Tony

[Mallard60022]

Well for real inspiration go to Coachman's thread. He and TW inspired me initially.

Thanks for the kind words though.

Strangely it is the painting that I'm also  not happy with. However, I have been told loads of times to practise on some old Horby Dublo metal side coaches. They can be cleaned off ready for doing again and so your best conversion effort doesn't get trashed!

Things that are just plain black.........not that bad. Anything else...we shall see!

Just a pointer. I was very careful with the saw and lumpy fingers on the Brake conversion, also shirt sleeves etc.out of the way and managed to not damage the pipework and alarm gear. Well worth that care IMO.

Just remember TW's great tip about the 'direction' of the saw blade, especially at the ends.

My best tip; only leave a couple of mill at the top of the side (cantrail position almost) as then the new glazing will fit more easily. How do I know this.......?

Also offer up the soldered sides BEFORE cutting the donor coach. I found the Comet sides to be a couple of mill short at the ends. However that might have been my soldering of the brake/compartment sections, but  don't think so.

Phil

[trw1089]

Thanks Phil, great tips. Watching TW makes it look easy but you can see the skill involved. Just wish I had his asbestos fingertips!

 

Cheers

Tony

[davidw]

Yes, I know that a couple of vents will need resetting; that damn camera is cruel!

Img_0093.jpg

Img_0092.jpg

 

The interior doesn't need hacking (it was already a brake interior) but might need repainting.

Discussions are underway as to whether we put the door grabs on now or after painting.

Roof mods to vent positions yet to be done.

 

It will be a 'layout' coach and the new owner will be doing almost everything else that needs doing so that he gets it as he requires. (I don't think I'm painting the sides on this one?)

For interest I have fitted commodes (0.45 brass wire and Bill Bedford fret for bending) and MJT Guard's Door Handles which are lovely little etches that I have used on  many other kit improvements and  plastic kit enhancement; Chivers Pigeon Van and an Isinglass version of the same diagram van).

 

For anyone that has not yet taken the saw to the plastic.......go on, have a go. I know this effort needs quite a lot of tidying up (e.g. the sides were a tad short for the donor and so the side ends could possibly need a little filler). It is good fun but does take almost as long as building (say) a Comet coach.

Phil

Really like these efforts Phil. I'm encouraged to tackle more

[Mallard60022]

Really like these efforts Phil. I'm encouraged to tackle more

Do it David. It has only taken me about 5 years to get going....................................

P

[davidw]

Which Diagram is the brake?

[Mallard60022]

D114 3 Compt. (I think); later build with 'rigid' underframe trussing. Tis for Gilbert to play with.

Phil

[Mallard60022]

I realise that I have not placed anything to look at on here since 22nd April

I had actually got the Cafeteria coach to what I considered a very reasonable top coat painting stage some weeks ago and having chosen a Carplan No 15 Green this week, decided to do that on Thursday to distract me from activities nationwide!

Well that went well until I started using the green! I had practised on an old Hornby Dublo coach and the finish looked good. I then decided to mask off the inside of this coach by blanking the windows as the interior  needs 'good painting' as it will be seen. (Restaurant area walls e.g. are lime green!

I used masking tape as I have done with other coaches, using Halfords paint and that has worked well. This time all seemed fine, with what looked like a good finish, however as I turned the hairdryer onto the second side to 'bake the finish', a blob of 'pooled' paint overflowed out of one of the window voids and dribbled down the side. Huge amount of swearing and I couldn't rescue the job. The Carplan paint is not as quick drying as Halfords. I think it will be OK but needs more skill than I have at the moment. This slower drying would be a benefit as my 'Halfords sides' can be a little 'orange peely'!  

After a bit of faffing and scraping the blob, I made the decision to strip the thing back and ended up doing the whole body and roof! It is now cleaned up, even the original Hornby roof paint and ready for another coating of primer. I shall do that when the weather brightens up and I've regained my sense of humour!

I shall try to remember to post some info when I do it this time. 

If it is of any help the Carplan paint is less expensive but would work I am sure, in the right hands.  It would have worked for me too I believe, if I hadn't masked off the interior. Not sure how I'm going to get that sorted next time?

I went to Halfords in Worksop yesterday as well, but didn't think to look for what looks like a suitable green. 

How Larry G gets his rattle can finish so damn good every time and in such a short time I really don't know!

Phil

Edited May 9, 2015 by Mallard60022

[micklner]

Sounds like the tape held the paint against the frame and or too much paint in that area. I would brush paint the interior afterwards. Unless it is being lit I don't bother as you cant see inside anyway!!.

Warm the can in hot water will help the paint flow better before spraying as well.

[Mallard60022]

Sounds like the tape held the paint against the frame and or too much paint in that area. I would brush paint the interior afterwards. Unless it is being lit I don't bother as you cant see inside anyway!!.

Warm the can in hot water will help the paint flow better before spraying as well.

Thanks mate. I think the Carplan paint is 'thicker' than the Halfords stuff (not an excuse........honest).

Yes, painting the interior by hand will be the way. It only needs to be done to 'give the impression' of a 'decorated interior' as the Restaurant and Buffet areas are open.

I might experiment (on the HD coach) with the tape just 'stuck' at the tops of the windows and then not covering the vents either if I do tape the Gresley.

I shall also adjust my technique with the Carplan can..............

I've just remembered that the Restaurant area has curtains. Paper I think? Don't think I can persuade SWMBO to get the Sewing equipment out.

Quackers.

[micklner]

MJT do whitemetal curtains v nice too. 

 

I think that the tape behind the small window opening would "catch" the paint and make it pool in the small opening and then overflow = nasty mess. I doubt if the paint is at fault , unless really sprayed on far too heavy.

Very light coats might help but you would still get paint build up in the small openings and possibly the tape will be glued by the paint to the rear of the sides. = just as nasty !!

[Mallard60022]

MJT do whitemetal curtains v nice too. 

 

I think that the tape behind the small window opening would "catch" the paint and make it pool in the small opening and then overflow = nasty mess. I doubt if the paint is at fault , unless really sprayed on far too heavy.

Very light coats might help but you would still get paint build up in the small openings and possibly the tape will be glued by the paint to the rear of the sides. = just as nasty !!

Yup. I've learned that lesson; no tape in future

I'd forgotten the MJT curtains; thanks matey. I'm sure I've seen somewhere that someone paints theirs.....not sure I want to do that!

Not being an ars* but the Carplan paint is deffo thicker than Halfords.   I need to practise with it.....a lot!

P