Snowwolflair Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 (edited) I'm using short neck Rapido couplings at the moment. I may change this and use three pin electrical connectors later to feed the front and tail lights if I decide to fit them. These short couplings give a good spacing for demonstration purposes. You will note I have ground back the underside to ensure the couplings do not scrape but this does not affect the sides. Please excuse the lens distortion. Edited June 2, 2016 by Snowwolflair 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 A bit of an experiment.I want to implement directional lights and to do this I need to distribute the power to the end coaches from the center car. I will be using DCC and also the class 170 bogies on the coaches have no electrical pickup.Those of you who are familiar with the Hornby Brighton Bell model will be familiar with the idea of using 3 pin plugs to hook together coaches. Its fragile but worth the effort.The trick is to get the plugs and sockets to move a little but not be loose enough to stress the wires, and to achieve this I am using silicone rubber (blue compound) to hold the plugs. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 A few more explanatory photos.The Blue silicone is a gasket seal type that stays soft and compressible. This means that on curves there is enough movement whilst the plugs and sockets are held firmly 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Mesh to give effect and to add rigidity.The under-frames have a tendency to curl and the mesh and the seating, when I add it, will stiffen this. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 These units are look rather good. Even though not my scale, they're great to see regardless. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 (edited) Video of the test run with sound using a Zimo MX649 sound chip. Edited June 11, 2016 by Snowwolflair 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Here is a shot of the DCC chip installation and speaker 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Update on transfers 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Absolutely great work there. Those 3D prints look wonderful and I'm impressed with the detail achieved in N gauge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 I am using the Virgin Voyager lighting units which come pre-wired and with the correct combination of fiber optics. Im trial fitting them now but they wont be permanent until the model is painted. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 The seating units are BR Lines MK3 1st and 2nd class seating modules cut up to give the correct seating configuration (or as close as I can get). BR Lines are always very helpful and you would be amazed at what they have squirreled away. Here is the Great Central seating layout which is almost identical, and with photos a good idea of layout can be worked out. I still need to paint the tables and the edges to the seats, however, once I have wired the plugs for the head and tail lights the chassis set will be substantially complete. My next task will be to surface the body shells for painting, not an easy task with a FUD print. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 After a lot of burnishing with a fiberglass pen and more than a few layers of primer the top coat has a nice shine.These now need the paint to cure and that can take several weeks, before any further paint is applied.I will need to mask the end panels and paint them white then yellow. I could have done this before the blue was applied, however the sprayed blue paint surface gives a better under surface for the yellow panels. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Wow, these are looking great! Keep up the good work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 After a lot of burnishing with a fiberglass pen and more than a few layers of primer the top coat has a nice shine. These now need the paint to cure and that can take several weeks, before any further paint is applied. I will need to mask the end panels and paint them white then yellow. I could have done this before the blue was applied, however the sprayed blue paint surface gives a better under surface for the yellow panels. I've got half a mind to steal those....but then again I've got half a mind. (full stop) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 This next stage just takes time a patience. I'm blocking in white where I will need to paint bright colors, Yellow and Barbie Pink. There is still a bit of tidying up to do which I do with a cocktail stick dipped in Polycell brush cleaner. Again this paint will need to cure before the next stage as I will need to use masking tape and I cannot risk the tape damaging the paint below it. One advantage of having the side CAD profile is I have been able to cut a very accurate curve template. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Plugs arrived today from China so I have wired in the Dapol Voyager light clusters. A bit of paint to hide the resistors and some detail painting and the Chassis is complete. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 A quick update on the electrical couplings. Once the silicone is firm I have wrapped the assembly in a heat shrink tube. this makes it very robust and stable. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 This model really is great and can't wait to see it running with the lights and bodies in place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Really coming along nicely. Have you had any thoughts about how you will glaze the Windows? Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 There are three sizes of windows, Side. doors and cab front. There are also small drivers windows but they are solid and will be gloss black paint. I am planning to cut all the windows from 1mm perspex using a laser. It helps that the 3D printing is very accurate so I only have to get three templates correct and the laser will make as many as I want. I may make window sets available with the transfers I am getting printed to anyone who is interested. Im making a list of interested members who should PM me. Ideally I will fit the windows with non fuming cyanoacrylate for strength. the alternative is model aircraft cockpit glue that dries transparent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Sounds good. Is there a Grand Central liveried version on the cards next?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowwolflair Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 The Grand Central livery does not need a transfer set as the black and Orange are better painted and the logos and detail transfer are available already as transfer sets from the usual suppliers. The transfer set i'm getting made will do a complete train for either First Great Western or First Hull. I live in Windsor and see the FGW Adelantes at Slough and Paddington station most days. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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