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DJ Models - J94 Update


Andy Y
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A couple of pics of the latest arrival on "No Place"- 

 

N.C.B. No.51 (Stephenson & Hawthorn works number 7101 of 1943) with Lambton cab.  Donor loco is an LNER liveried one to get plain black with no smokebox numberplate.

 

RT Models cab kit made to fit a Hornby J94.  Only a little filing needed to get it to fit the DJM WD.   Assembled for me by David Temple as I'm too hamfisted to get those curves right- he described it as a litttle sod to bend to shape. 

 

Lettered by me - it won't get tank lettering as I remember No.51 as either not lettered or too filthy to read - either is possible.  It has since had couplings added and the gold bits below the footplate painted matt black.  

 

post-13358-0-96616200-1509997732_thumb.jpg

post-13358-0-45307100-1509997765_thumb.jpg

 

Les

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just picked one of these beauties up in the Rails advent event, ive always liked J94's and cannot wait to get my mitts on it! :yahoo:

 

Although I will have to resist repainting it like my ageing Hornby model.  Either in the London Brick livery shown below or the Army camouflage one that has been part way through a repaint for the best part of 3 years! :O

 

post-6736-0-07053100-1512161335.jpg

 

post-6736-0-71772800-1512161342.jpg

Any chance you could release this fictional version Dave? It'd save me a repaint! :senile:

 

Best Regards

 

Dan

 

 

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Just picked one of these beauties up in the Rails advent event, ive always liked J94's and cannot wait to get my mitts on it! :yahoo:

 

Although I will have to resist repainting it like my ageing Hornby model.  Either in the London Brick livery shown below or the Army camouflage one that has been part way through a repaint for the best part of 3 years! :O

 

attachicon.giflbc j94.jpg

 

attachicon.giflbc j94 2.jpg

Any chance you could release this fictional version Dave? It'd save me a repaint! :senile:

 

Best Regards

 

Dan

and then do a slightly darker “ Accrington Brick”one too :-)
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Did that just before and ran it a while before the video

I’d oil it again, maybe some on the back of the wheels where the axles go into the frames, and lastly the con rods where they attach to the wheels.

 

If could be something silly like some swarf that needs removing and wil rub away, or it’s just the geets need a bit more time for meshing.

 

Can I suggest you run it for 30-45 minutes each way on a moderate speed then 15 minutes at a lower speed and see if it beds in?

Cheers

Dave

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I have just purchased the Hattons Ltd edition "Hurricane" and It is cogging even on the Rolling road. Has anybody found a solution?

Very frustrating 

https://youtu.be/OHNt4wYxLqE

 

The DJ models J94/Austerity chassis is one of the most free running chassis I've come across. With the motor decoupled from the geartrain, given a slight push it will happily roll down a 1 in 30 incline under its own weight and there lies a problem. The geartrain on mine has between 55 and 60 degrees of free rotation (backlash)

 

Until that backlash is either eliminated or substantially reduced cogging, especially on downgrades with a trailing load (as observed by PMP above) will always be a potential problem.

 

As only a few have reported this problem I assume the backlash on most is small enough not to affect running qualities?

 

Try running yours in and I hope it improves. Of the three I've had through my hands they all exhibited the same cogging problems.

 

Good luck too you.

 

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Ok, I tried the above and no joy, however I thought I would remove the DCC chip and try on DC, Runs much better not stopping still a bit jerky but moving, I was using a Hattons 6 pin chip?

 

Does the hattons chip have an adjustable CV for use with coreless motors. I tested mine with a Zimo MX621N and MX649 N chips. The chassis ran very roughly on level track with the "out of the box" CV's. Altering the CV's to suit the coreless motor transformed the running qualities. CV's 56 & 9 think?

 

I don't know if the Hattons chip provides a  CV adjustments to change beween Coreless & Iron Core?

 

This post says a lot about the BEMF problem with coreless motors.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/4487-best-decoder-for-coreless-motor/&do=findComment&comment=34136

 

P

 

Edit: Forgot to say; I also use a powercab for control but JMRI via a sprog to make any adjustments. I don't suppose there is a JMRI profile for the Hattons (whoever the primary manufacturer is?) chip as yet.

Edited by Porcy Mane
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Hi,

 

Just wondered if there was any reason why the BR/LNER-liveried models generally retail for less than the Industrial liveries? Is it to do with batch sizes produced? I've seen DJM J94s in BR/LNER black for as little as £65-70 but never less than £80 for an industrial. The pattern seems to be the same with Hornby models second-hand too - the industrials always seem to go for more?

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Hi,

 

Just wondered if there was any reason why the BR/LNER-liveried models generally retail for less than the Industrial liveries? Is it to do with batch sizes produced? I've seen DJM J94s in BR/LNER black for as little as £65-70 but never less than £80 for an industrial. The pattern seems to be the same with Hornby models second-hand too - the industrials always seem to go for more?

 

desirability is my guess.

 

the industrials so far were limiteds for various shops, BR/LNER were general release.

 

i'm waiting on the MSC one myself.

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Hi,

 

Just wondered if there was any reason why the BR/LNER-liveried models generally retail for less than the Industrial liveries? Is it to do with batch sizes produced? I've seen DJM J94s in BR/LNER black for as little as £65-70 but never less than £80 for an industrial. The pattern seems to be the same with Hornby models second-hand too - the industrials always seem to go for more?

 

So far the Industrials have all  been  limited editions.  Ask the same question in a year or so when the "mainstream" DJM Industrial liveried WD saddletanks are out.

 

Les

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Ian, I very much doubt it's a QC/assembly issue as the locos tested are two different types 14xx/j94 and the J94's came from at least two batches. There's a very easy test to do, a yard of flexi track on a batten raised an inch or so one end. Then place an open wagon filled with a few weights/coins coupled to the loco and see what happens when it descends. Be interesting to see a video of it, people have either only filmed them on the flat, or climbing. I did previously ask someone to post a descending video, to compare to my experience but none has appeared.

 

Edit: I too would love to alleviate the running problems but I'm coming to the opinion that a different drive design is required, or needs to be significantly improved if the models are to be used on layouts with any gradients.

My Yellow Peril has developed this stuttering running after just a few circuits. I had run it in on a RR and it seemed OK. Has anything been resolved re this problem? To whom should I refer if I want to ask for a replacement?

Phil

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My Yellow Peril has developed this stuttering running after just a few circuits. I had run it in on a RR and it seemed OK. Has anything been resolved re this problem? To whom should I refer if I want to ask for a replacement?

Phil

This model might just need a bit more lubrication, try a bit on each axle down the back of the wheel as well as the recommended oiling points in the keeper plate.

It should settle down nicely.

Cheers

Dave

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My Yellow Peril has developed this stuttering running after just a few circuits. I had run it in on a RR and it seemed OK. Has anything been resolved re this problem? To whom should I refer if I want to ask for a replacement?

Phil

 After replicating PMPs scenario last summer I tried running mine for the first time last week. Whereas it had run fine on the level under both DC and DCC operation during summer; last week it ran like the proverbial bag of spanners.

 

Connecting a DC controller directly to the Circuit board/Motor side of the chassis everything ran smoothly.  Putting a meter from each wheel tyre to its respective lead on the top of the chassis found excessive resistance.

 

I stuck the loco on top of a radiator for a while and the warming up process improved running considerably but not back to what it had been.

 

Next I cleaned the axles. Due to the large amount of sideplay on the axles it allowed me to clean off as much of the lubrication as possible and I also removed as much lubrication as possible from the gear train. This reduced the resistance to zero and returned running to normal.

 

 I'm pretty certain the problems with mine was the thickening of the lube due to winter temps increasing electrical resistance combined with the lower torque produced by the coreless motor finding it harder to overcome the additional mechanical resistance of the higher viscosity lube.

 

I'm not saying this is your problem but have a go at cleaning the lube off the accessible parts of the axles. It might improve things.

 

P

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This model might just need a bit more lubrication, try a bit on each axle down the back of the wheel as well as the recommended oiling points in the keeper plate.

It should settle down nicely.

Cheers

Dave

Thanks dave. I did this a couple of weeks ago and things improved somewhat. Today it was taken to a shunting layout for some slow running tests. It remains  there having performed quite well forwards but a bit 'hoppy' in reverse. It is a lot better than it was. Some reports will follow ( I hope).

Phil

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