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Jessy1692's bits & pieces- Coaching stock and wagon bashing stuff with the odd loco


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8 minutes ago, Grizz said:


James I have built loads of these euro curtain siders, all using the tissue paper / PVA method in that topic. I think I did include some step by step photos on the build process.
The first short DB red one I built used Pritstik glue stick instead of PVA, but I found it was harder to work the creases out of the tissue paper. To make it look like the real waterproof vinyl curtain sider I found the trick is to use rattle can gloss paint on the tissue paper, built up in several layers so that it becomes quite thick, but always allowing plenty of time for it to dry between coats.
 

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Cheers Grizz, yeah you have some cracking wagons and a good step by step how to on the curtain siders, they really do look good.

Have had the day off today so been looking through your posts nearly all afternoon.

All the best

James

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Evening all, had some free time this weekend so have progressed a couple of things. The VDA pair are finished and running around the layout.

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The 48 is just about ready to become 1704 but i seem to be out of gloss varnish so my dads off to fetch some tomorrow, quick coat of gloss on the cab sides and the transfers will be on then a spray over with humbrol satin.

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The chassis for this is on the way from Lendons, more to follow when it arrives.

 

Finally the PWAs will hopefully get finished this week, just need to run off some tinkered transfers. Im keen to try out some techniques to create an original shellstar curtain side one so depending on finding a donor or two on ebay this could be another project soon.

Cheers

James

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5 minutes ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi James,

 

Will you be taking a mould from a Campbells van and somehow lengthening it to make the sides ?

 

Gibbo.

Evening Gibbo, after reading through Grizz's stuff on his wagons, im going to attempt it via the his tissue paper method, the curtain side PWA's look to have closer spaced ripples/ribs. Going to practice on some plasticard but i think i have it sussed, famous last words!

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18 minutes ago, leopardml2341 said:

At least your 48 will be finished before the Model Rail one makes it to the shelves.........

I hope so too! Still quite surprised its going ahead, will be interesting to see how it looks.

Cheers

James

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Jessy, the 48 looks marvellous.

 

Perhaps I could pick your brains on something, namely varnishing? You mention Humbrol Satin Varnish in the post, is ths your standard varnish that you use, and if so is it the old enamel based one or an acrylic variant? The reason I ask is that I had a bit of a calamity yesterday spraying Johnson's Kleer (the old stuff), which worked fine on some of the models I sprayed, but not on some others, leaving a blotchy appearance. May be recoverable, may be not, but with potentially a lot of hours work down the pan I don't think I'll be using it any more.

 

Many thanks,

 

John.

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28 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

Jessy, the 48 looks marvellous.

 

Perhaps I could pick your brains on something, namely varnishing? You mention Humbrol Satin Varnish in the post, is ths your standard varnish that you use, and if so is it the old enamel based one or an acrylic variant? The reason I ask is that I had a bit of a calamity yesterday spraying Johnson's Kleer (the old stuff), which worked fine on some of the models I sprayed, but not on some others, leaving a blotchy appearance. May be recoverable, may be not, but with potentially a lot of hours work down the pan I don't think I'll be using it any more.

 

Many thanks,

 

John.

 

John,

 

I have noticed that Klear behaves strangely when it is contaminated with or comes into contact with enamel thinners or white spirit - you get the blotchiness that you describe and it will not cover the surface properly.   Perhaps that is what is happening in your case.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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Hi Folks,

 

Varnish is the single most unreliable item that I use when making models. That it is generally the last operation after all the hard work has been done is doubly frustrating.

 

It has been alleged that the collective of humanity can put a man on the moon yet no one seems to be able to manufacture a varnish that doesn't cause all manner of bother by curling up transfers, reacting with substrate paint finishes, becoming yellow, turning gloss when it should be matt, satin when it should be gloss, matt or gloss when it should be satin or just blooming because it just does without any reason for it doing so that you might see as apparent.

 

Gibbo.

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25 minutes ago, Darius43 said:

 

John,

 

I have noticed that Klear behaves strangely when it is contaminated with or comes into contact with enamel thinners or white spirit - you get the blotchiness that you describe and it will not cover the surface properly.   Perhaps that is what is happening in your case.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

That is not impossible. I generally use enamel products and white spirit. Despite having a fairly thorough cleaning regime it isn't impossible that there was some contamination. I might stick to enamel varnishes in future, or else have dedicated airbrushes and bottles for the two products.

 

Many thanks,

 

John.

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10 minutes ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Folks,

 

Varnish is the single most unreliable item that I use when making models. That it is generally the last operation after all the hard work has been done is doubly frustrating.

 

It has been alleged that the collective of humanity can put a man on the moon yet no one seems to be able to manufacture a varnish that doesn't cause all manner of bother by curling up transfers, reacting with substrate paint finishes, becoming yellow, turning gloss when it should be matt, satin when it should be gloss, matt or gloss when it should be satin or just blooming because it just does without any reason for it doing so that you might see as apparent.

 

Gibbo.

Exactly so - defeat snatched from the jaws of victory. That's why I generally try to do as little varnishing as possible, I'd generally rather transfers fell apart after a decade or two than have this nonsense - I might have fallen apart earlier anyway!

 

Particularly annoying here as I didn't follow my own instinct. I shall leave things be for a day or two then see what can be done.

 

Thanks,

 

John.

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2 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

Jessy, the 48 looks marvellous.

 

Perhaps I could pick your brains on something, namely varnishing? You mention Humbrol Satin Varnish in the post, is ths your standard varnish that you use, and if so is it the old enamel based one or an acrylic variant? The reason I ask is that I had a bit of a calamity yesterday spraying Johnson's Kleer (the old stuff), which worked fine on some of the models I sprayed, but not on some others, leaving a blotchy appearance. May be recoverable, may be not, but with potentially a lot of hours work down the pan I don't think I'll be using it any more.

 

Many thanks,

 

John.

Afternoon John and all, i seem to only use the humbrol rattle cans of satin as it leaves just enough sheen for me. My usual method is enamel paint humbrol/railmatch, then for locos add patches of gloss brush varnish where the transfers are to go. Normally dont bother on wagons unless its a big transfer. Transfers then sealed with humbrol decal fix and left to dry for 24hrs.

I usually spray my stuff outside or occasionally inside in the kitchen, always try to get a warm dry day. Never had a problem with the humbrol varnish, only thing that sometimes happens is it can get a bit 'splattery' if the cans running low or the nozzle gets blocked but another coat soon sorts that.

Perhaps its my slow pace gives all the enamel paint time to go off properly, i have used both enamel and acrylic varnish and both give good results, once i noticed some slight fogging/frosting but another coat over the area sorted it fine.

Perhaps i have been lucky, it is always a bit nerve wracking at varnish time!

Hope this helps, if you want any more info just let me know

All the best

James

Edited by jessy1692
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James,

 

Many thanks for detailing your method. My own progress is very slow, so everything gets time to cure well!

 

I think Darius above may have hit on the answer in this case. As it happens, I have to be away for three days until Thursday, so the coating should be pretty hard by then, and I might try rubbing with the very fine Tamiya papers (which I've had for years and hardly ever use), then a wash and respray with uncontaminated kit.

 

Thanks for the response.

 

John.

Edited by John Tomlinson
typo
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2 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

James,

 

Many thanks for detailing your method. My own progress is very slow, so everything gets time to cure well!

 

I think Darius above may have hit on the answer in this case. As it happens, I have to be away for three days unti Thursday, so the coating should be pretty hard by then, and I might try rubbing with the very fine Tamiya papers (which I've had for years and hardly ever use), then a wash and respray with uncontaminated kit.

 

Thanks for the response.

 

John.

No probs John, fingers crossed its just a minor blip and youll be sorted soon. Varnish does seem to be a dark art reading through the above from us all.

All the best

James

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7 hours ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Folks,

 

Varnish is the single most unreliable item that I use when making models. That it is generally the last operation after all the hard work has been done is doubly frustrating.

 

It has been alleged that the collective of humanity can put a man on the moon yet no one seems to be able to manufacture a varnish that doesn't cause all manner of bother by curling up transfers, reacting with substrate paint finishes, becoming yellow, turning gloss when it should be matt, satin when it should be gloss, matt or gloss when it should be satin or just blooming because it just does without any reason for it doing so that you might see as apparent.

 

Gibbo.

Hi Gibbo

 

I know I don't paint many models but I have got around the varnish problem. I just suffer the results of not varnishing my toy trains.

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Evening chaps, small update tonight. The 48 now has varnish patches on ready for transfers.

 

The 3 PWAs now have updated new TOPs panels and solebar lettering. The eagle eyed of you may also spot i made up some smaller yellow oval plaques and procor logos, all individually numbered and every panel is different in little ways. Much happier with these new trasfers i wizzed off today. Decal fix is setting, final weathering next then varnish for these.

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More soon hopefully.

Cheers

James

Edited by jessy1692
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Well i havnt managed as much time on bits as i thought i would, work has been manic so been pretty knackered on an evening but some forward movement has been maintained.

Two of the PWAs have been weathered down and ready for a varnish coat. I also won two more Ebay so project curtain siders is on.

I did a trial run today on some plasticard using some 20thou rod to form the ribs as per Grizz's technique, however, i found the ribs too high for to represent the curtain side PWA,s so another trial run will be done soon with thinner rod. Didnt take pics as phone was dead... If all goes to plan with a trial the plan is to file smooth the detail on the sides of the lima wagons, glue on verticle rods (33 of them!) Then apply wetted tissue paper and then seal with PVA. The a few coats of gloss white spray and then home made full length decals in the striking blue. Oh and ill see if Jon Hall has any of his brass trusses left.

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The 48 has now been transferred up and a coat of satin sprayed, it may need another but ill judge it in better light in the morning, the cooker hood lights are a bit bright in them pics. May have to send off for some more as the tin is getting low. I really do like the 3D works plates from Railtec, will be making a lot of use of them.

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My order from Lendons is now on the way with bits for the chassis, been waiting for some bits to arrive with them from Hornby.

 

Next up on the loco front i think will be 47 901, fancy a bit of triple grey to go with 37 905.

 

Cheers for looking 

James

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52 minutes ago, leopardml2341 said:

Hi James,

 

What make are the 41A depot code transfers please?

 

Thanks,

Hi Leopard, the are from Railtec, 1st time iv used their 'idividual custom loco pack' basically everything you need for the loco of your choice, ready made numbers, TOPs, totems, warning flashes etc. Its the way ahead really save so much time and i cant fault the service, ordered just before midnight then by 9am the next day and email from Steve to ask what number and shed code, then posted later that day.

Cheers

James

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Evening all, still awaiting the chassis bits arriving for 1704 so tonight iv been plotting the way ahead for the curtain sided PWA's. My Dad has been trialling some thinner rod to use under the tissue paper whilst i was watching Leeds last night and it is a definite improvement to my trial at the weekend. I painted a bit of white on over the blue tissue paper to see how it looked and all seems well. Yes i know, he could have glued the vertical rods on straight but as its a test ill let him off! Tonight i scraped and filed off all the detail on one of the new PWA's that have arrived, luckily they are brown plastic so no paint stripping required. I also altered the end struts reduce their height slightly. The next step of the plan is to mark up the 33 vertice lines for the rods to be glued to body side, i make it 5.2mm between each one, then add the tissue paper.20201020_231257.jpg.085eba989596050c464fac817e3973bd.jpg

Finally for this evening we have been dicussing colours for the blue, from the couple of pics on Paul Bartlett's site https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/ukfvan/h5371e734#h5371e04c

and the 3 on Flikr from John Turner's gallery (auto embedded, can remove if not allowed?)

 

c.1969 - unknown location.

I think we have come up with the colour, going to use railmatch faded rail blue and add a touch of white just to brighten it up, i painted a bit on some card and part of the tissue clad test earlier and decided it needs a bit of white to lighten it, but will judge better in daylight.

Thats about it for now. Hopefull more soon.

Cheers

James

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well things have been a bit slow since my last post, just not finding much time on an evening, i keep falling asleep after tea. im blaming the clocks changing!

The package from Lendons arrived last weekend so i now have a railroad 47 chassis and 57 trailing bogie for 1704, we have been buying up the ridiculously cheap 59 power bogies and 66 bogies and swapping side frames over to re power all of our Lima stuff, no more pancake whine! Should have it moving today and will then repaint and weather chassis to get this one complete. It was due to get sound fitted, im liking the sound of the Roads and Rails Kestrel as this is done from the LVA from a french 68000 and sounds like it has the distinctive 47 horns, however, i ended up buying a PoP train kit after seeing Darius's latest master piece so sound for 1704 will have to wait a little.

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The curtain side PWA project is moving on, both sides now have the ribs and tissue paper glued on as of last night, ended up using some tissue paper from some shoes that the other half got last week, the blue stuff i had seemed to have a waxy coating that didnt allow it to dampen down. Anyway, today ill get a bit of primer on and see how things look before i start filing the sides on the other one. 

I think i have found a good blue for them, after a few trials i wasnt quite happy with the faded rail blue so having a scout about on the internet i found some other Shellstar logos on things - beer mats- bizarrely enough! I found the blue to look more like Humbrol Mediterranean blue so bought a tin of that for the ends, once the paint is on ill figure out the colour on the computer and make up full side decals. Got a free weekend this weekend so hopefully get things moving a bit faster.

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Cheers for looking in

James 

Edited by jessy1692
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Evening all, just back for some tea so thought id add a little update.

 

1704 is now running about silently with its cheapo underframe and chassis, dead pleased with is so far just finaln weathering on the bogies to do after yellow axle box covers dry.

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The curtain PWA pair are coming on, the 1st one has had some primer and a couple of coats of gloss white applied to the sides to get ready for transfers when i get them sorted. Its a VERY tedious job gluing the 33 bits of rod on the sides and seems to take an inordinate amount of time, i have done this on the second one and just waiting for the pva glued tissue paper to dry on this

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The blue has been added to the 1st one as a test, im liking the colour now a second coat is on so i need to now match it to a colour digitally to sort the transfers, lots of trial and error coming up but i think itl come out well.

Still to do is bits of detailing on the ends, there seems to be some kind of winding mechanism on these for the curtain sides. Trusses are from Jon Hall on here, i have just added an extra panel on the left hand side as per prototype. Also bogies will be sourced, the others have SKits bogies but i may splash out on some Stenson ones for these two, as lets face it, theres not going to be much else to spend money on for next 4 weeks..

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Also on the go on my Dads bench is a proto Deltic from a Dapol kit, it has a railroad 92 chassis cut down a bit, a railroad 66 power and trailing bogie with Lima 37 side frames transplanted. We have some tanks to add and then once hes decided if the raised detail is to be sanded off itl be rail blue. The shipment from Lendons has been most useful, we now have re motored all of our old Lima stuff so its now possible to have a conversation whilst they run round!

Cheers

James

Edited by jessy1692
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  • 2 weeks later...

Evening all, so things have slowed up somewhat recently. Work has been a bit hectic and obviously lockdown has stopped me bobbing up to the bench again. For now iv got a box of bits and the 2 curtain side PWA's down at my house so can keep going with them.

Tonight iv got the other half to sort the full side decals this evening, was hoping to do a test print but the printers out of in at home..

Anyway, small progress there, hopefully test prints will be good and i can get these nearly finished.

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Cheers

James

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