Jessy1692's bits & pieces- Coaching stock and wagon bashing stuff with the odd loco

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

Yes, quite easily done, sometimes I wake up in the morning with delusions of grandeur and think I'm a competent modeller, half an hour at the workbench soon reminds me of my place!

 

Mike.

[Gibbo675]

4 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

Yes, quite easily done, sometimes I wake up in the morning with delusions of grandeur and think I'm a competent modeller, half an hour at the workbench soon reminds me of my place!

 

Mike.

Hi Mike,

 

Would that be an allusion to candour ?

 

Gibbo.

[cheesysmith]

I only have delusions of adequacy. I consider my modeling to be moving from one mistake to the next. As long as I don't repeat them and remember what went wrong, I feel happy.

[jessy1692]

Evening all, the Cemflos are slowly edging down the production line still. This week I have got pretty the underframe stuff pretty much sorted and bent up the bodyside pipework. The central connector things have been made up from sliced up bits of lego and old bits of sprue.

 

The postman delivered a lovely package of buffers from Lanarkshire models, very impressed with the quality of these buffers. I also bought a pack of coupling hooks too but stupidly only ordered one pack of 12... I blame ordering them at 1.30 am the other day and thinking 12 would be enough for 10 wagons..face palm moment.

Tomorrow I'll start on the sole bar plates, iv a couple of plans so let's see which one works best, not really looking forward to cutting the ovals out!

Cheers

James

[Gibbo675]

Hi James,

 

Do some of the ones with the round holes I found them easy enough. Make a small jig from .040" and then use it to drill the series of holes in the .010" or what ever you decide is a good thickness, you may then cut around the holes and finish by cutting the notch out of the ends. The time you spend on the jig will pay dividend in both time to produce the plates and also accuracy of the hole spacing. It may be possible to make a jig to cut out the oval holes by using three drillings and cutting and filing between them.

 

I am almost shamed into pulling my finger out and doing some modelling................but not quite.

 

Gibbo.

[jessy1692]

20 minutes ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi James,

 

Do some of the ones with the round holes I found them easy enough. Make a small jig from .040" and then use it to drill the series of holes in the .010" or what ever you decide is a good thickness, you may then cut around the holes and finish by cutting the notch out of the ends. The time you spend on the jig will pay dividend in both time to produce the plates and also accuracy of the hole spacing. It may be possible to make a jig to cut out the oval holes by using three drillings and cutting and filing between them.

 

I am almost shamed into pulling my finger out and doing some modelling................but not quite.

 

Gibbo.

Cheers Gibbo, the round ones like you say should be easy enough, a jig sounds a top idea too, should keep things uniform. I'm after a bit of a mix of the round and ovals so may do the oval ones first. I'll sleep on it tonight and get going in the morning.

 

I'm sure you'll be back to the bench at somepoint soon, good to have a break for a bit every now and then.

All the best

James

[heavymetalwagons]

like your cemflos was doing the same myself  but ran out of steam (there's a pun !) and moved onto some grampus/lamprey wagons 

I too like using jigs ,makes life simple (if you make a good jig) I even made one for the filler pipe so the bends are always the same .

have a look at my post may give you a few ideas (or not)  Heavymetalwagons workbench - Modifying & Detailing RTR stock - RMweb

 

 

[jessy1692]

5 hours ago, heavymetalwagons said:

like your cemflos was doing the same myself  but ran out of steam (there's a pun !) and moved onto some grampus/lamprey wagons 

I too like using jigs ,makes life simple (if you make a good jig) I even made one for the filler pipe so the bends are always the same .

have a look at my post may give you a few ideas (or not)  Heavymetalwagons workbench - Modifying & Detailing RTR stock - RMweb

 

 

Nice one! Just taking a break so will have a look, been drilling holes.. so many holes ...

[jessy1692]

5 hours ago, heavymetalwagons said:

like your cemflos was doing the same myself  but ran out of steam (there's a pun !) and moved onto some grampus/lamprey wagons 

I too like using jigs ,makes life simple (if you make a good jig) I even made one for the filler pipe so the bends are always the same .

have a look at my post may give you a few ideas (or not)  Heavymetalwagons workbench - Modifying & Detailing RTR stock - RMweb

 

 

Looks a fair but of work gone into the underframe detail on yours, very impressive detailing. I think if I'd gone that far I'd have given up by now, they are becoming a slight chore but the end is in sight. The oval pattern plates you have done look excellent, iv just drilled mine out and just about to oval them around a bit... think I need a need to push on now.

I'm guessing you did new W irons as well if your P4? 

Cheers

James

[heavymetalwagons]

many thanks for your kind words (inspired me to maybe go back to them)

for the oval holes I used a brass tube slightly bent to oval and sharpened with a file .then punched out on a 10th sheet then cut into strips .

on some just used the Hornby tanker underframe and on one a Bachmann tanker underframe and like you reused the triang chassis all worked ok (from memory) may have used new W irons on one !! but had ride height issue's 

 

how's brand of C channel do you use for your underframe??

 

many thanks   

Edited March 28, 2021 by heavymetalwagons
thick as ****

[jessy1692]

7 hours ago, heavymetalwagons said:

many thanks for your kind words (inspired me to maybe go back to them)

for the oval holes I used a brass tube slightly bent to oval and sharpened with a file .then punched out on a 10th sheet then cut into strips .

on some just used the Hornby tanker underframe and on one a Bachmann tanker underframe and like you reused the triang chassis all worked ok (from memory) may have used new W irons on one !! but had ride height issue's 

 

how's brand of C channel do you use for your underframe??

 

many thanks   

Ahh, now I was thinking of doing the same making a punch for the ovals but I didn't have anything to hand so have drilled 3 holes and will open them up, might not end well if I can't get them uniform.

 

I actually used I beam on mine but c channel may have been easier in retrospect, its Evergreen 3.2 section as recommended by Gibbo.

 

The only thing with re using the Hornby W irons is that I tried to keep the axle boxes over the end of the axle which has left me a bit of a gap between the top of the axle box castings and the sole bar. I think ill get away with it when the are painted and on the layout from normal viewing distances. I probably could have shifted them up a bit without it looking too bad to be honest. It just annoys me of I see axle boxes not looking like they are on the end of the axles!

 

Glad to hear your going back to them, looking forward to seeing how yours come out.

All the best

James

[jessy1692]

Evening all, the cemflos are slowly getting there. The Easter break allowed me to get cracking to get all 10 to just about ready for proper paint. I'd made up jigs to do the circular holes and oval holed plates but the oval ones were a bit of a fail. Plan b for them saw me get some brass tube squashed to shape and used as a punch, but I ended up heating the end with a candle and using the hot brass to melt oval holes in the 10thou plasticard on the solebars. I think I got 4 wagons done like that but ended up doing some more circular ones with a drill as they actually are easier.

A little bit of fettling still requires on a few whilst the weather decides what it wants to do, hopefully I'll get some silver paint on soon so I best get some transfers ordered.

Cheers for looking in

James

[Gibbo675]

Hi James,

 

Looking good there, I shall have to see if my nearly started ones will match your results if I ever pull my finger out.

 

Gibbo.

[jessy1692]

1 minute ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi James,

 

Looking good there, I shall have to see if my nearly started ones will match your results if I ever pull my finger out.

 

Gibbo.

Cheers Gibbo, I'm pretty pleased with how they have come out so far. I'm sure once you get going on them you'll get more done quicker than I have... never drilled so many holes in my life!

[jessy1692]

Big step forward this morning, transfers arrived from CCT so glad I bought some silver yesterday! All now looking like silver queen's! Looking forward to transfers and weathering now, the end is in sight.

Time for the leeds game and packing the house up for our move.

Cheers

James

[heavymetalwagons]

nice work 

should have said CCT do two types of transfers one the right length for the original triang model and the correct scale length one (made that mistake my self) but will use the "short" ones as heavily weathered ones with the ends rubbed off !!!!

I used humberol  27001 aluminum paint (looks good but needs two coats) but yours look just as good so may change paints .

I used real cement as weathering powder and I rubbed it on and off and it seems to kill the shine and leave a nice dull finish !!

there's a really nice photo in working wagons vol 1 1968-1973 (the green cover) page 32 which is one that's  definitely on my to-do list     

[jessy1692]

3 hours ago, heavymetalwagons said:

nice work 

should have said CCT do two types of transfers one the right length for the original triang model and the correct scale length one (made that mistake my self) but will use the "short" ones as heavily weathered ones with the ends rubbed off !!!!

I used humberol  27001 aluminum paint (looks good but needs two coats) but yours look just as good so may change paints .

I used real cement as weathering powder and I rubbed it on and off and it seems to kill the shine and leave a nice dull finish !!

there's a really nice photo in working wagons vol 1 1968-1973 (the green cover) page 32 which is one that's  definitely on my to-do list     

Cheers mate, oh don't tell me that about CCT it's just had me check in a panic! All seems well though, there just seems to be BL145 on the CCT site and they look scale to me so perhaps John only does scale ones now because I think Railtec do ones to cover tri ang length ones?

 

As for paint, it's Holts car paint, serial number HSILM14, I used it for my tubs on the HAAs last year and liked they way it came out so did the same again for these. Used a full can on my ten over a few coats but it does dry very quick so you can soon get them sprayed up.

 

Weathering is happening at the mo, just muckied up the chassis and tank ends, transfers going on next then a bit of fun with different greys and talcum powder as I've seen good results on the net, all out of cement at my house and doubt I'll get away with buying a bag just for these!

Cheers

James

[heavymetalwagons]

Your right its the railtec ones that offer 2 types!!! 

As for cement ask a builder for a cup full. Most will let you have it for free 

Edited April 11, 2021 by heavymetalwagons

[jessy1692]

27 minutes ago, heavymetalwagons said:

Your right its the railtec ones that offer 2 types!!! 

As for cement ask a builder for a cup full. Most will let you have it for free 

Ah now I havnt spotted Railtec doing 2 types, may have a look for a bit of variety.

 

Good thinking on the builders, plenty of works going in my area at mo so I'm sure I can cadge a bit off one, I'll have a play with talcum powder though as well.

Cheers

James

[Darius43]

5 hours ago, heavymetalwagons said:

Iused real cement as weathering powder and I rubbed it on and off and it seems to kill the shine and leave a nice dull finish !!

 

Be careful with cement in contact with your skin as it can cause irritation or worse.  Mixed with water it can also burn your skin although small modelling quantities are probably not an issue.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

[heavymetalwagons]

As long as you don't mix up and put cement where you'd put talc on your body you should be OK!

I experimented with the cement on an a old unmodified body first just incase 

[jessy1692]

5 minutes ago, heavymetalwagons said:

As long as you don't mix up and put cement where you'd put talc on your body you should be OK!

I experimented with the cement on an a old unmodified body first just incase 

Sounds like good advice does that!

[jessy1692]

Evening all, bit of an update on the Cemflo's, I have got transfers onto 5 of them after applying a bit of black and crud to the underframe this aft. Once the transfers have set, work will move onto playing with various grey paints and talc/cement to weather these down some more, aiming for late 60s/early 70s era on these as I was going to work up some TOPS panels and numbering as per my original plan but I need to get these finished quickly now so will just leave as is with the lovely CCT transfers.

Packing up for the evening, it's been a productive weekend.

Cheers

James

[jessy1692]

I didn't manage to get much done this week until this afternoon so now all transfers are on and cement dust weathering has started to be applied now. Basically it's a coat of thinned phoenix cement coloured paint daubled on (carefully over the transfers as the solvent in the paint and white spirit attack the printing) the wagon is then placed in a box and talc is liberally applied to the wet paint and left to dry for a few mins. The excess talk is shaken off and a cotton bud used to get rid of any in the nooks and crannies.

Quite pleased with how these have come out, 3 more to do once decal fix had dried, ill check in the morning if any weathering top ups are required. Nearly there with these although I do need to order some brake wheels as iv forgotten so far!.

Cheers

James

[Enterprisingwestern]

On 11/04/2021 at 17:39, jessy1692 said:

I'll have a play with talcum powder though as well

 

TMI.

 

Mike.