Tillig Track Question

[Hobby]

That roughly sounds like what I used when I used their H0e points, I used rail in a groove in the top of the baseboard giving a straight run to the slider switch used to change polarity and the point, an omega loop gave some give to the motion. I never had any issues with the tiebar either, the only issue I had was that the checkrails stuck up above the rail level and so got knocked out when cleaning the track unless I was very careful.

[Andymsa]

On 17/11/2020 at 08:49, Hobby said:

That roughly sounds like what I used when I used their H0e points, I used rail in a groove in the top of the baseboard giving a straight run to the slider switch used to change polarity and the point, an omega loop gave some give to the motion. I never had any issues with the tiebar either, the only issue I had was that the checkrails stuck up above the rail level and so got knocked out when cleaning the track unless I was very careful.

Those points with the plastic check rails I super glue in place so they are not dislodged with cleaning.

Edited November 18, 2020 by Andymsa

[Andymsa]

20 hours ago, Vistisen said:

 

Tilligs tiebar is very delicate. I use the Cobalt point motors, the the rod on them is too big to fit the hole in the tiebar, opening it up makes it even more fragile. I have destroyed two points when cleaning them with a track rubber og cloth that has snagged on the sticking up bar and destroyed the points tiebar beyond repair. By using the extension you get the pin out of the way of the tracking cleaning process. 

it is possible to repair the tie bar. The big problem with these points is the small bent section that connects the rail to the tie bar, this bent section is very fragile I feel but even so tillig points look very good. I recently although not sure how damaged one of the tie bars on a installed point, I was going to take the point out and exchange it. but I thought This issue could occur again so I decided on a repair, this was done by snapping off the other bent section on the other rail, then removed the tie bar. You can cut out the plastic under the tie bar if more clearance is needed. I then used copper clad strip and carefully soldered the rail to the copper clad. It does appear to be holding up very ell so far. I hope this helps.

Edited November 17, 2020 by Andymsa

[Andymsa]

23 hours ago, wandering blue said:

 

 

Bumping an old thread here as the nearest I can find to some Tillig questions.

 

I'm about to start laying Tillig Elite into Tillig Styrostone, to operate with with Cobalt stall motors. Experience of this particular combo, or with other stall motors, welcome!

 

To all (and Vistisen in particular as above), why would you fit the motors to the extension of the tie bar rather than using the hole in between the rails? In particular, does this assist, or be detrimental to, tie-bar longevity, in anyone's experience?

 

I appreciate that the tie bars are fragile, and from my electronic trawls at least some replace this with copper-clad.  As I'm using Tillig Styrostone, I guess if I have a  tie-bar failure I have at least a chance that the point may be removable from the Styrostone and therefore salvageable, whereas if I was traditionally ballasting I can see that the point fragility would easily result in write-offs.  

 

Finally, if anyone has used Styrostone on a dismantle-able layout, with board joints, presumably you still secured the rail ends with brass screws or copper-clad? As you have to fit the track into the Styrostone before laying, I can see this may be tricky!

 

Thanks in anticipation.

 

WB

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I use tortoise point motors on these points. When I set up the point motor I try to get equal pressure on the point blades, this doesn’t always mean the point motor is directly under the center point of the throw. With the single and double slips I some times have to change the point motor wire to one less flexible to overcome the stiffness of the blades. On the big outside double slip I remove the small plastic connecting section that connects both blades of the point so I end up using 4 point motors although it can be challenging for clearances. I also modify electrical connections as you can get back to back shorts. The small diamond crossing definitely needs this.