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I wrote a small piece about it on my blog the other day, with a screenshot of drawing in progress. I'll add more on it when I'm confident it's as good as it can be for my purposes. In short it's got chassis frames from 0.5mm Nickel Silver and the rest is in 0.2mm brass, to be finished off with some whitemetal castings that I'll need to turn masters for first (I figure I may as well cast them since they'll no doubt be of interest to others, and I need at least 3 of the little critters)

Edited by RichardJones
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  • 3 weeks later...

2mm stock does not run well on plain N gauge track. The dimension over tyres in 2FS is 9.12mm (dimension 'WG' on the diagram here), whereas N track is nominally 9mm. I have experimented with this, running a loco with 2FS drop-in wheels on Peco track, and it has a tendency to jump off the track because of the gauge problem, so I really wouldn't recommend it.

 

Hello 2mm-ers, I think the above answers my question, and I'm not even sure if this is a question for you folks anyway - it's got a good chance of getting me chucked out of the bar rather quickly :)

 

Let's risk it: so if I wanted finer scale appearance wheels (narrow, shallower flange), what are my options bearing in mind that I absolutely want to keep Peco Code 55 and don't want to move to 2mm trackwork?

 

Thanks :)

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Hello 2mm-ers, I think the above answers my question, and I'm not even sure if this is a question for you folks anyway - it's got a good chance of getting me chucked out of the bar rather quickly :)

 

Let's risk it: so if I wanted finer scale appearance wheels (narrow, shallower flange), what are my options bearing in mind that I absolutely want to keep Peco Code 55 and don't want to move to 2mm trackwork?

 

Thanks :)

 

Well if you don't mind a risk of more derailments you could try either turning down the manufacturers wheels or using 2mm SA wheels set to a closer back to back. Probably the best bet would be to turn the manufacturers wheels down just a little. Trial and error would show how much you could do before the running was affected. Normally the wheel tread width, flangeways, gauge and back to back are all interlinked. Personally I don't think its worth the effort if you are sticking with the N gauge points.

Don

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Let's risk it: so if I wanted finer scale appearance wheels (narrow, shallower flange), what are my options bearing in mind that I absolutely want to keep Peco Code 55 and don't want to move to 2mm trackwork?

 

Thanks :)

 

At the risk of sounding harsh, none really. If you want finer wheels you need finer track - you can't seperate track and wheel standards without running in to problems, they come as a package.

Sorry :)

 

Jerry

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Well if you don't mind a risk of more derailments you could try either turning down the manufacturers wheels or using 2mm SA wheels set to a closer back to back. Probably the best bet would be to turn the manufacturers wheels down just a little. Trial and error would show how much you could do before the running was affected. Normally the wheel tread width, flangeways, gauge and back to back are all interlinked. Personally I don't think its worth the effort if you are sticking with the N gauge points.

Don

 

I think Don's hit the nail on the head. It's trial and error. The key thing to remember is that N gauge wheels often run on their flanges through the common crossings, so if you make the flange shallower you will get a bump as they drop down into the gap and ride back up on the other side. For the same reason regauged 2FS wheels will not run reliably through the points.

 

Have you spoken to the Scale 148 chappies? I believe one of their new standards was for use with Peco Code 55 track.

 

Andy

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Okay, many thanks for the answers folks.

 

Whereabouts do I contact the Scale 148 chappies? I can find a page with a load of info about it, but I'm guessing there's something else I'm meant to be looking for? I'm probably not using the right search terms.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The plan is coming along well. One question: what minimum radius do I need for my hidden area in 2mmFS with close coupling? It will be level, fully accessible, grouping era. My current plan is 60cm radius, but if necessary I could increase it at the expense of the visible area.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi

Is there a quick way to straighten bullhaed rail from a coil?

Many thanks

Ray

 

Yes there is a quick way, but it involves a fiendish machine built by a chap from the Darkest corner of Darkest Essex (I understand its called Darkest Essex because the power goes off regularly!). The machine probably breaks a few electrical safety regulations, so don't try it at home without asking a responsible person.....

 

The machine is the hollow heating bar from an electric fire, about 2ft long, attached to a strong metal box structure. Thread rail down centre of heating element. At one end of the element is a fixed vice, fit one end of rail to this. At the other end is a vice attached to a strong spring which keeps the rail under tension, fit other end of rail to this. Pull spring (there is a lever to help with this, and a latch to hold it) so that rail is under tension. Turn on power to the heating element for a few seconds until the sprung vice is just seen to start to move. Power off as soon as any movement is seen, and the residual heat allows the rail to be stretched a little further. Release rail from both ends and use. Repeat for next length of rail.

 

 

Without such a machine, then straightening is a slow process of running rail between fingers, etc.. For solder constructed track the rail needs to only be relieved of some of its curve, if the rails are soldered with the curves in opposite directions then the tension in the track is evened out. I suspect that curved rail doesn't work well in plastic track bases.

 

 

- Nigel

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Quote: For solder constructed track the rail needs to only be relieved of some of its curve, if the rails are soldered with the curves in opposite directions then the tension in the track is evened out. I suspect that curved rail doesn't work well in plastic track bases.

 

Absolutely right Nigel! In the early days of Easitrac I saw someone struggling with coil rail - the stuff he was turning out looked as though it was for a model rollercoaster. Not long after that the association went back to supplying 50cm straight lengths.

 

Alan

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If its bullhead it will straighten fairly well through your fingers. However flatbottom rail is much more resistant and can easily twist when you try to straighten it. If you haven't got too much of it you could save it for curved sections and get some new straight lengths. This is practical for say an oval layout where there is a fair bit of curved track no so much use for a BLT.

Don

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Thanks all for the advice

Thanks for all the advice. I think the fiendish machine sounds poitively dangerous. I am one of those who bought a coil! As its to hand I'll have to straighten it the hard way! I will buy some straight rail though.

 

Regards

Ray

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How long does Ian normally take to respond? The reason I am getting worried is that I sent off my application via the British Shop in Brussels (who sell UK stamps and have a postbox where they take letters to the UK to post). It has now been two weeks and he has yet to charge my credit card. I appreciate he is a volunteer and I am not getting stroppy, I just wonder whether I should worry yet.

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Assuming you mean Ian Collins (membership secretary), I think he's been on holiday recently. If you don't hear anything within the next two weeks, pm me and I'll enquire on your behalf to see if the application has arrived - I know he usually aims to turn applications round in a week or so (not allowing for post).

 

Andy

(2mm S.A. Secretary)

 

Edit - forgot to add that the credit cards payments are processed separately to keep the admin down (strict bank rules on credit card handling) so your card may not be charged straight away.

Edited by 2mm Andy
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