I have just ordered a few feet of Metcalfe retaining walls and 20 terrace house backs. 
My local model shop recommended Rocket card glue, but another said it ‘grabs’ too quickly.

Years ago I used UHUO but can’t find it now.

Which glue in your experience is the best one for the job? 
Also, how best to colour the exposed edges?

I built some 7mm scale terrace house backs around 15 years ago and painted a few to look rendered. Would this warp the thinner 00 scale card?

Thanks for your help in advance!

Richard

Already completed - work in Photoshop to juggle the name to Drovers Return using components of the original font and updating ownership from Newton & Ridley to Free House. In order to fit the site in the layout’s footprint some tweaking of the footway width already completed. 
 

Having completed a quick test print of the base to double check I got that right one more step needed before beginning a beta build. In Photoshop copy the footway slabs to a new layer and tweak the grey (as supplied) to a cream for the  yorkstone paviours typical of the modelled area. 
 

Obviously it is simplified and much compressed. The real building is huge and even in it's reduced form in N gauge 1:148 scale (which this model is) it's still a large structure - probably bigger than most OO buildings on many layouts. It's been given a coat of grey primer which helps spot issues that can be resolved with some filler and filing. The next stage will be adding details but these will probably be from plasticard so will be outside the scope of this thread. Then it's painting and adding the windows.

In the colonnaded walkway there is currently a range of trendy shops although the centre arch allows access beyond. Presumably there is office space above now, but once was probably warehousing - the area is famous for once being London's larder.

http://media6000.dropshots.com/photos/1232909/20160919/083806.jpg

G.

has anyone experience with using this brand? They appear to be good value for money, and have an interesting range of buildings - all supposedly in '0' gauge. I'm thinking of using the example shown to become the basis for a small dairy processing plant. The platform shown would comfortably fit two milk tank wagons ( it's about about 15" /380mm). It looks like the print quality is similar to 'Superquick' range, and I anticipate needing to add quite a bit of texture appliqué to have it stand up to close scrutiny. Not a bad starting point, though. 

Its interesting to compare with the real house as it is now on Streetview.

The plan is to separate the model house from its surrounding, repair/refurbish it and transplant it onto my Whiterock layout.

Cheers

Darius

The window glazing is home made using clear acetate sheet with Tamiya masking tape applied.  the glazing bars are cut with a sharp blade and removed, leaving the masked glazing panels behind.  Grey etching primer and then white primer are sprayed on and, when dry, the masks are removed leaving the window pane to be trimmed and installed.

I used York Modelmaking self adhesive tile strips for the roof and 3D printed chimney pots from eBay.

Cheers

Darius

Started with the signal box using 2mm and 1mm thick card stock and Scalescenes brick paper.

I made the window glazing using clear acetate sheet with Tamiya tape applied.  The window bars were cut out with a sharp knife leaving the panes masked.  White primer was sprayed on and the window trimmed to fit.

The access steps and entrance porch are made using 1mm thick card.

The roof tiles are 4mm self adhesive strips from York Model Rail.

Cheers

Darius

Nice one Michael! 👍

R010 Signalbox

R023 Diesel depot

T023 Small Corner shops

T031 Shipping containers and concrete

T022 Small terraced houses (low relief) and roads

not low relief terraced houses, low relief shops, retaining wall (R013)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124240600441?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=_lxwXStFTWe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=i2fengDNToS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

re the above “kits”, has anyone here any examples of finished ones with presumably scale scenes or similar brick papers overlaid? 
 

TIA

Do I need to get it printed on a specific thickness or type of material and would it be best to build a basic shell/frame for the printed bits to go onto out of foamboard (for example)? 

Thought I’d ask on here for some advice before I start as I don’t want to make a hash of it for my first attempt in so many years!

Can anyone suggest the best supplier(s) of Brick Paper please, ideally without a gloss?

Thanks,

Brian

The model is made from card and Scalescenes brick paper, I downloaded the plans of the building from its conversion into offices in the early 2010s and as the building has changed many times over the years, this model is not an exact replica of the pub at any particular point, but rather my attempt to capture the spirit of the building, so things like the iconic painting on the front face might not have been from the exact time period of the other signage etc. There was a distinct lack of photos of the back of the building, so I have had to rely on the architectural plans for this from Leeds City Council’s planning portal so I have no idea if this is the building in its current guise or how it looked when the pub was open.

I have the greatest admiration for those who plan their buildings in Inkscape to the fraction of the mm, that is not me however. I sized the architectural drawings to 4mm using one of the doors in Publisher and then printed these out and stuck to card, before covering with brick paper and after that everything was drawn using a propelling pencil and a steel rule, the windows being done by the same method on sticky labels- the curtains are just slivers of post-it notes, I find the pastel shades make good looking curtains. The red tiles around the bar are a custom texture I made myself using a downloaded picture from the internet and a overlaid filter to get the colouring right, while the signs were simply taken from a photo found on RMWeb and scaled to size. Chimney pots are 3D prints from a free file I found online.

It has taken a few weeks to build the building and its been a lot of fun to do. It’s the most complex scratch build I have undertaken so far, and the one that has turned out the best. Its certainly very imposing (you don’t realise how much model manufacturers shrink buildings until you build a model of the real thing to scale) and I hope my friend likes it!

My Cannon MG7550 printer is on its last legs and is no longer supported by Cannon

I use the printer for both domestic operations in the house plus the use of its scanner.

The other main use is for printing downloaded Scalesscenes files.

I would prefer a Cannon printer again and also use INKREDIBLE.co.uk for the supply of replacement cartridges.

One recommended printer is the Canon TS8750 

Has anyone have this machine and is suitable for my above needs ?

Are there any advantages in upgrading to a laser printer ?

Terry 

I'm currently designing a station building for my N gauge layout (link in my signature), and I'm using the GNR Station of Lowesby as a design influence. This means I will be drawing the building from scratch as there are elements which I would like to put in. 

The methodology of actually undertaking this has stumped me. I can go-ahead and draw my building on squared paper and make a scale drawing, to me that's the easy bit. However, I have then thought "Wonderful, we have a drawing. Oh dear! we now have to draw it out again on the  various layers of card I'm using". This has the led me to thinking of making a template. A template would make my life a lot easier, as I would not have to draw all the elements out individually and cut them out, leading to margins of error. It would also mean my model2ill have straightway and windows!

So the question is how best to go about it? Draw by hand, make a photocopy, cut it out and stick to card, cut out a card template wnd use that? Or should I use some sort of digital drawing tool? And template the card? Essentially whati want is something where I can plonk it down, draw round if, cut out windows and doors and its ready for gluing together.

thanks 

Cheers

Darius

So too my attempts to print onto clear acetate sheets. The ink smudges or doesn't stick to the acetate,  or the acetate sheet comes out the printer looking like its been in a microwave for too long.

It was driving me bonkers. Surely there's a better way? Or at least something a cack-handed person like me could cope with? Here's what I've just tried for the Scalescenes ARP Signal Box.

First, an online search for copyright free pics of a real and suitable signal box. Ignore all those images taken from an oblique angle, what we need is a "full frontal" image, where the window frames are showing as vertical and horizontal lines.

Using whatever you prefer as a screen-grabber is, get a snip of one window. Hopefully one that shows some internal detail.

In a drawing software package, paste in that one copy. Resize to suit, then draw a suitable box as a container, and copy & paste that one window in to make a full set. Here's the front and two ends, on an A4 page, with a 7.5 inch grid. The relevance of that comes next.

Then take another screen grab of this assembly, paste it onto a new page, and then reduce that to the 75 millimetres that I'd measured as the Scalescenes window width for OO gauge.

Here that on an A4 page.

The spacing between the three front windows can take a bit of fiddling. But here's my first attempt and the results so far. On an ARP Signal Box, waiting for the stairs and chimney to go on.

Cheers

Darius

Layers would also be a definite advantage 

Does anybody know whether the site owner is planning a return?

scalescenes use acrylic matt varnish to tone down the shine of the card finish on other models.   I presume this has been done with Metcalfe Model buildings as well?

Have others used weathering powders on these buildings also to get an improved finish?

I must say the Wayside station kit seems very well designed and is a really attractive prototype.  Looking foward to seeing the result on my layout.