I haven't been able to access the forum for the last couple of weeks. I'm not sure if it is just my account or something has gone wrong with the entire forum.

I was hoping for a RC method using servos (waterproof cases etc of course) and a cheap TX. I have a Fosworks TX and also a Spektrum TX but don't think I can use these. I need something very simple and cheap(!). I only have 5 points.

Thanks,

Richard

We have an O gauge DCC layout in the garden.

We had a nice dry sunny day and the temperature was -2 or -3 degrees, so we cleaned the snow off and cleaned the track and started running trains until we had a problem.

The engines that went onto a train and run as soon as they were outside were fine until we stopped them and those engines that had stood still for a while would not go forwards or backwards but the sound was still working well, after while indoors they were back to running normally.

We use ESU and factory fitted Dapol decoders, the effect was the same effect on both. Is it that it is too cold for the decoders or is there another problem.

Has anyone experienced this or have any ideas what the problem could be.

Maybe we should not be so mad as to try running trains in sub zero temperatures.

Richard

I do have a 3D printer - but cannot find any .stl files to download.

Thanks,

R

I am looking to promote 45mm gauge live steam a live steam event in my local club. As a consequence, I am looking for a photo to illustrate my point. Can anyone helps please?

It must be LGB type track just laid on the grass, not a formal layout. It shouldn't have people in it if possible.

Many thanks

Paul

This was at the top of my news picks today!  Do we know the builder/ previous householder, Frank, I wonder! 

Is anyone on here already providing advice to Lauren?

The loco fleet has diminished over the years too. One loco is completely worn out. Two others have decoder issues. 
 

What is the cheapest decoder available nowadays to work with the LGB multi train system?

it’s an elongated oval with extended sides and one siding, it measures 25ft long, by 15ft wide, it’s raised 2ft 6in on wooden fence posts into metal stanchions  with 6X2 timbers on top for the track bed, all is fine, my partner has built a large rockery in and around it with many plants, rocks and water features to make it interesting.

However, we are both a bit frustrated, the railway used to be on the ground on a gravel base, but it was too difficult to keep clean, and we ended up not using it much, we are elderly and I have bad arthritis, and we find it much easier to clean now it’s raised. But we had buildings  when it was on the ground to add more interest, but there’s nowhere to put them now, we did think about making girder bridges, or a viaduct, but was wondering how others get around this issue, any ideas appreciated.

Has anyone done something similar to this? Any ideas or advice?

Thanks

For over 30 years my 00 garden layout has been battery operated due to problems with picking up power from the track.   The track was Peco 00 nickel silver code 100 mainly concrete sleeper type (No moulded chairs)  laid on sand cement mix with PVA and mortar plasticiser and banked up around the track like ballast.    When tested initially locos produced showers of sparks and it appeared the tracks were shorting through the ballast,  I gave up and have used batteries since.

However last week after a different garden line suffered severe warping of the baseboards and I decided to risk the sand/ cement mix again.  to level up the severely distorted track bed.  This time without plasticiser or PVA and this time 

Initial results after 24 hours to dry and a quick rub with a Peco track rubber were encouraging, arcing, sparking but my old Bachmann Manor ran, however not for long.  A Wrenn chassis 57XX and a Triang chassis 94XX with Romfords also ran then stopped with filthy wheel treads.
It was obvious something was wrong and it became clear that issue was dirt on the inside of the rails, the track rubber on its side didn't work, made no real difference so I looked for a scraper and found the earth pin from a 3 pin UK mains  plug.   It helped, with the pin flat on the rail notch formed by the widened section for the screw for the wire reducing to the smaller section to fit the socket clears the rail chairs and scraped the side of the rail head.   A further tweak a rod (Old clock part) screwed into the pin keeps it level. A Hacksaw cut made the notch fit the railhead better without striking the chairs. That worked, the next test engine (too lazy to clean the wheels) a Hornby 2721 pannier from around 2016 ran very well,  (on plain track.)  Just like inside .

I haven't tidied it up yet but 7 meters or so of plain track are now fully functional again, and it may be of interest to others as my initial layout has plenty of original track from 30 years ago still serviceable and most of that laid on wood has been changed 3 times...

I’m hoping for a bit of advice on building an 0 gauge garden railway. I’ve never worked with the scale before and I’m finding it a little bit difficult to work out what I can fit in the space I have available.

The area I have is roughly 7 metres by 7 metres with a space adjacent to it that I’d easily be able to fit a 6’ x 4’ shed  for storage and potentially a small terminus (apologies for the mixing of measurement standards here).

The premise would be a small Scottish highland type of setup - so small 3 coach trains plus loco as a maximum length. I’d also like to raise the track height and landscape the area in the garden.

What I was wondering was:

1) What kind of length would I need for a loco to be able to run around three coaches in this scale?

2) Is it feasible to have working point motors outside in the garden?

3) Would anyone mind running their eye over the rough sketch I’ve made below (I sent that to a friend hence the way I’ve written the notes out!) and just give me an idea of whether I could realistically fit that into the space I’ve got without having ridiculously sharp curves?

Any advice/constructive criticism would be gratefully received!

 Thanks everyone 

Nick

Did search for it in here but no mention of it found.

https://cambridgeminiaturewonderland.com

Gee Vee

Ian

Hopefully someone may know the answer to this and be able to help.

I make Wooden Trains to use as garden planters, don’t worry I’m not here to advertise.

I was wondering if it is possible to get Driver figures in the standing position at around 6 inches tall?

Thanks in advance.

Mike

As I model in OO gauge and DCC, is this really practical?  I’d like to hear from others about the advantages, pitfalls or even experiences that they’ve had.  My plan is I’d really like to maybe sit in the garden on a sunny day, a beer, watching the trains roll by.

The Locomotive is one of those LGB 2-4-0s  that uses the a Simplified Stainz Chassis... I got it from Lehman I think it must have been at the Iorn Horse here in Pittsburgh Pennsylvania which has been closed for 15 plus years, We had to have gotten it around 1998 or so maybe 1997

I don't know where exactly though we initially purchased it, you can usually Tell from the Box but my Family ended up loosing that a long ago, we had some issues with Mice a While back unfortunately and a lot of my G scale Rolling stock items had to be thrown away, I think we even got rid of the original Tender, however after about a good 22 years or so I'm able to rewire it to a New Bright Tender which if I can find an additional Pickup somewhere or make one as its one of those electric variations, will need to source some springs from some place to hold the bogie in place, had one but threw it away, will source a motor from New bright as well I grew up with them a lot, they are very nostalgic to me personally

I will be relocating the Headlight too, my Main goal is to get this Loco renumbered to 475 from Thomas and the Magic Railroad, Looking for some LGB Compost cars to help with the project, not sure where I can get the right Decals or vinyl transfers from

Thanks

Paul

So, my memory not being what it was, is there some recourse that I can search that will provide the issue number to specific articles -  please.

Regard Jim B

The magazine market has changed significantly and the GR is no longer viable, which is a shame and I shall miss it.  I have emailed Kalmbach customer service to see if their original CD ROM of back issues to 2016 is to be extended (an hopefully reformatted for download).  We shall see

After years of procrastination - I have been a member of the Association of 16mm Narrow Gauge Modellers for five years - work starts on the trackbed next week.

I have constraints, the main one being that garden has to double as my children's playground, as well as this big kid's playground!  As such, construction will be at ground level and a combination of concrete blocks and paving/bricks laid on concrete, and concrete channels formed in shuttering on the curves.

The curves are mostly 4', although they shorten to 38" on the reverse loop (top left) and station points.  I cannot see a way around that, unless I want to start a civil war somewhere near the trampoline.  So I can watch trains go round in circles without having to drive the locomotives too much, there is a 4' radius chord bypassing the shortest curves and terminus, which also completes a turning triangle, should I want to run snout first out of the station.  The Peco SM32 track will be laid without any significant gradient.

I am aware that there will be limitations stock wise and will be looking at a Roundhouse Katie, Billy or Lady Anne or maybe a Russell or Alco.  I do like the look of Taliesin and Beddgelert (although I might have missed the boat), but imagine the throw might be too much on the curves.

Train leaves the terminus, goes round in circles either via the loop or chord (or both), then comes back on itself via the reverse loop and returns to the terminus.  There is the potential for future expansion.

The pool (metal framed and disassembled in the Autumn) will be moving 2' closer to the house from next year, so will be at least 3' from the track.

The grid is 12" by 12".  If only the real thing was as easy as drawing it out on paper and then a computer...

Does anyone have any comments, advice or suggestions?

Many thanks,

Alun