The 2mm folk's workbench is very active and informative so let's try a 3mm one.

To kick off here are a couple of shots of my latest projects.

Firstly we have a Morris 8 from the society kit.

Followed by a coal lorry from an adapted Zvezda kit. It's basically a refined WWII German Opel Blitz but passes for something British.

Bob

First off, the chairmans pre xmas bulletin was a very positive start, with the launch of the Diamond Jubilee video hosted on You Tube.

Even a few short snippets of my High Peak Junction 😁.

And lots more planned great stuff like the Class 66 ready to roll society commission from Lincoln Locos.

Cheers

D.

   I'm going to Vintage Carriages Trust tommorow, to visit their magazine room. I'm trying to remember what issue of Model Rail Magazine it was, that featured a 3mm Scale layout with a cement works, and lots of kit/scratchbuilt tank locomotives. I remember a pic with a green Andrew Barclay tank loco, coming out of a round concrete-type tunnel. I'd guess the issue must have been a relatively early one, when I was buying the mags before I went to Uni, so maybe in the late 1990's or early to mid 2000's? Does it fire anyone's memories please? Would rather have a bit of narrowing the search before I drag the whole family into the archive room and make them wait whilst I search!

Thanks in advance,

I managed to get myself one of these, which arrived this week. It's a lovely little model:

The body is 3D printed by Lincoln Locos, and the chassis is from Graham Shirley of the society.

It runs very nicely, even on my Hornby TT120 track (still not properly wired up....).

Hauling unmodified Triang wagons, which have a lot of resistance, it needs a bit more weight really. It's 75g compared to 120g odd for a Triang 08 or Jinty. But there appears to be plenty of space to add weight inside the body.

I'm hoping to (eventually) finish mine as Cumbria, as used to run on the Lakeside and Haverthwaite when I was a boy:

Cumbria was the first "preserved railway" steam loco I experienced, and as such, is partly responsible for all this! Plus I love the FR livery.

Nothing is likely to happen fast, but a fun project which I might be able to get the kids involved with.

I was planning to get some FR livery paint from Phoenix Precision. Anyone know if FR lining is available anywhere? 2mm or 4mm scale would be ok with me.

I am hoping to have my first try at airbrushing with this one. Yes, that's right, until now I have only used (hairy) brush painting. I'm dragging myself kicking and screaming into the late 20th century. First, I need to get an airbrush...

Any recommendations?

With the collapse of Shapeways Mike from maridunian_models has posted many of his designs on cults3d for the intrepid modeler to down load the STL file and do a spot of home printing.

TTA Tank link

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/tt-3mm-45t-tta-tank-wagon?srsltid=AfmBOopsdWV9qeffO-pShhooKfT1JHDr-ki3_oB_bjhvjrg_Tky58feH

Firstly may I say a heart felt tar very much to Mike for uploading his creations and without the time and effort he has done none of my ramblings would be hear and the following is neither a dislike of criticism of said files! Just my own preferences....on to printing!

The STL file for your 3mm tank wagon is a tenner!

Upon down load the file is processed in the slicer program (I use lychee Pro....others avaliable) the slicer for none 3d followers in very simple terms positions your model on a build plate allows suports to be added.....'sprues' in airfix terms then cuts it into slices (different machines have different settings I've used 0.02mm to 0.05mm for 'wet resin' printing) the slices then get loaded into a USB stick shoved into your resin printer smelly resin poured in to a tank and hrs later dangling (hopefully) to your build plate is what looks like a model! Then a few post printing processes for cleaning are done bingo a model!

Loads of youtube tutorials avaliable if interested 

Back to TTA, as originally supplied the tank had printed ladders but looked Hornby 1970s! Mike then uploaded a new file without ladders so you could add etched ladders for more finesse new print done and it looked loads better but I still couldn't get good definition on walkways it looked good on computer but didn't print with definition and with a coat of primer would be lost I had several fiddels on the slicer to increase depth but lacked what I wanted so in the slicer I lopped them off see pic below I cut tank filler and mounted on a stick just to print in place to cut off and glue on when new walkway builtand I'm on hunt for fine mesh....I've got some coming from Poland and A1 models and hopefully bash up some open walkways!

I also found that standard 3mm axles with 14.2mm wheels wouldn't fit between w irons I tried drilling and filing and still wouldn't fit I then took drastic step to electronically slice model in half and print separate,  that way I could electronically via slicer increase width by 1mm this also allowed virtually no supports/sprues on underframe allowing for a cleaner print, and is not noticeable as .5mm each side of tank

After many test prints i think I've reached the 'sweet' spot and I've given one a dusting of primer to see how layered it looks a good bit of wet and dry and they will be gone

There are that many 3d projects at the moment I'm finding my self flip floping between many...good in one respect but for the weak willed like my self too easy to skip to next but got this one screwed down apart from walkways but I know where I'm going with that, other models from Mike are a Turbot bogie ballast wagon (my favourite BR wagon of all time....when Mike said he was doing it then within a week it had popped up it felt like Christmas ! Pictures to follow that's at primer stage too!)

Please check out Mike's work on cults3d.com 

For us weirdo's in 3mm its bloody madness what is suddenly available that would never get a injection molding tool made to make kits at around 8k for a 4 wheel wagon

My printer is around 4 years old so with newer printers results could be finner

Here is the list of the vehicles so far:

CCM-V001    1952 - Shelvoke & Drewry - Freightlifter Forklift
CCM-V002    1979 - Ford Transit Mk2 - SWB - Low Roof Van
CCM-V003    1979 - Ford Transit Mk2 - LWB - High Roof Van
CCM-V004    1960 - Bedford CA - SWB Van
CCM-V005    1960 - Bedford CA - Crewbus
CCM-V006    1974 - Sherpa - Van
CCM-V007    1950 - Commer Express Delivery Van
CCM-V008    1949 - Hillman Minx 4 Door (saloon / Sedan)
CCM-V009    1950 - Commer 'Superpoise' - Panel Van
CCM-V010    1946 - Shelvoke & Drewry - W Type Bin Lorry
CCM-V011    1980 - Ford Cargo - BR Workshop
CCM-V012    1930s - Karrier Bantum - Cab 3 (Pre War) Bin Lorry
CCM-V013    1930s - Karrier Bantum - Cab 1 (Pre War) GWR Box Van
CCM-V014    1950s - Karrier Bantam - Lowloader - Dustbin Cart
CCM-V015    1965 - Hillman Super Imp
CCM-V016    1965 - Hillman Super Imp - Police Version
CCM-V017    1965 - Hillman Imp Californian Kit
CCM-V018    1965 - Hillman Imp Van
CCM-V019    1965 - Hillman Imp Van - AA Van
CCM-V020    1965 - Hillman Imp Husky
CCM-V021    1965 - Singer Chamois - Single Headlight
CCM-V022    1969 - Singer Chamois - Double Headlight
CCM-V023    1963 - Bedford HA - Van
CCM-V024    1963 - Bedford HA - Van + Roofrack and ladder
CCM-V025    1963 - Vauxhall Viva (HA) Family Car
CCM-V026    1963 - Bedford Beagle Estate Car
CCM-V027    1984 - Dennis RS Water Tender
CCM-V028    1959 - Shelvoke & Drewry - TN Type Bin Lorry
CCM-V029    1959 - Shelvoke & Drewry - T Type Gully Emptier
CCM-V030    1945 - Fordson E27N Major Tractor
CCM-V031    1930s Karrier Bantum - Cab 1 (War) Flat bed
CCM-V032    1960 - Bedford CA - SWB Aircraft steps
CCM-V033    1979 - Ford Transit Mk2 - SWB Gown Van
CCM-V034    1979 - Ford Transit Mk2 - LWB Fridge Van
CCM-V035    1980 - Ford Cargo - Skip
CCM-V036    1950s Karrier Bantam - Lowloader - Flatbed
CCM-V037    1930s Karrier Bantum - Cab 3 (Post War) 2 headlights -  Flat bed
CCM-V038    1960 - Bedford CA - Flatbed
CCM-V039    1966 - Commer Lorry -  Dropside
CCM-V040    1950s - Front Unload Cattle Trailer
CCM-V041    1950s - Sheep & Pig Trailer
CCM-V042    1950s - Road Transport Lorry
CCM-V043    1950s - Tractor Farm Waggon
CCM-V044    1965 - Commer Lorry -  Tipper
CCM-V045    1966 - Commer Lorry -  Flatbed
CCM-V046    1956 Leyland Tiger Cub with Weymann Hermes body
CCM-V047    1974-76 Leyland Leopard/Seddon Pennine 7, Alexander T type
CCM-V048    1976-82 Leyland Leopard/Seddon Pennine 7, Alexander T type

As sales grow I will look to add more and increase the available models in the range.

These are available in both 1:100 and 1:120 from CMM Vehicles

available from  https://marstonmodels.com/product/tt-gauge-gwr-railway-fog-hut-kit-3mm-foot/

Available from  https://marstonmodels.com/product/tt-gauge-post-boxes-1100-3mm/ 

Available from https://marstonmodels.com

So I thought I'd have a bash at a 3mm/14.2 loco and a Lincoln Locos class 24 body print was ordered.

Whilst waiting for that I decided to have a go at a chassis, I've been messing about with dead rail and decided to go that way.

So a couple of single axle drive bogies were knocked up using compact Romford 40:1 gears with Nige Lawton009 10 mm round can motors (12v rated). The loco(s) won't have to have huge haulage capacity so a single axle drive should suffice but it'd be eay enough to make it all axle drive by using the similar but double ended Tramfabriek motor, if I do a Co-Co I'd be more inclined to use them in a A1A type mech.

So far so good, and here's a video of the hastily lashed up chassis having a bench test....the basic unit is not far off but needs a fair bit of tidying, the battery and rc gear are not.....but it all seems to work ok so far.

The body has now landed so I can finish the chassis etc.

The good thing about dead rail is you can literally do a bench test, which is good as I've yet to get some 14.2mm gauge track!

Available from https://marstonmodels.com/product/br-drop-arm-water-crane-tt-3mm/

Are these kits still available through the Society? I've looked on the website but i can't see anything about them. If they could still be had, I'd probably join (rejoin, in fact: I was a member for several years in the 1990s) just to get them. If they can't, I'd have to think about whether I could accomplish what I want to entirely on the basis of scratchbuilding stuff. I'm interested primarily in the LNWR coaches right now, but I'd probably cast my net wider than that in time.

Jim

Playing with one of the turnouts and a Triang 0-6-0, a Castle, and a brake van suggests that track and stock are tantalisingly close to working together.

With all B-to-Bs set to 3mm Society coarse standards everything seems to run happily through the straight road in both directions. However, on the turnout road there appears to be a tight spot at the knuckle of the crossing (at the angle between the wing and closure rails). Opening up the back to backs improves matters, but by the time the tightness eases, the locos then complain about going round the R1 curves by grinding and waddling all over the place.

I do note that the check rail gap on the turnout road on all the points seems narrower than that on the straight road.

Before I butcher a nice new turnout I thought I'd ask if anyone had some magic B-to-B number that will let Triang locos go through Hornby points but still go round R1 curves.

Failing that, should I just set all my B-to-Bs to 3mm coarse standard and modify the turnout to suit? I know some here replace moulded Peco check rails with actual rail. However I'm hoping to get away with attacking things with a small file, especially as problems only really seem to occur at that one very specific point at the knuckle.

Oh yes, perhaps I should have said, I'm hoping to retain the turnout's ability to take somewhat finer wheelsets (Hornby and/or Society intermediate standard). Too big an ask?

Detailed interior including Seat, stove, flag hooks.   Door can be cut to be modelled open to show interior.   Designed from original southern railway drawings.

size height 23mm width 16mm  depth 16mm

(Marston Models)

I suspect that the main line coaches probably represent the worst case overhangs I'm likely to encounter, but all mine are packed away beyond my reach right at the moment.

I'm hoping some kind soul could supply overall length and bogie centre dimensions. These would allow me to create a rough mock up in CAD that I can test on my virtual curves.

Alternatively, if anyone already knows the minimum track centres that will work for 1'10" minimum radius (inside track), that would also be helpful.

Thanks in advance.

Supper happy 

Crisp printing

All good stuff for mid 80s layout

Hoping somebody might be able to offer some thoughts/opinions for me.  3SMR offer a white metal body kit for an LNER A4 at £48.  What is it like in terms of accuracy - has anyone got one that they have built up and have a picture?

Im not into the rivet-counter area but an A4, especailly the nose and length of the loco, is something that has to be right or it looks wrong.  Before I spend nearly £50 on one I just wondered what everyone thought - am I going to be disappointed? I appreciate for my 1950s model, it needs the valences taking off.

I appreciate I have high standards but i've been looking at possibly 3D scanning the nose of a 4mm model and downsizing it - yes I know you should never base a model on a model, but I dont have access to a real life one to create a 3D scan of the nose! However, if the 3SMR is reasonably accurate and acceptable, it saves a lot of issues.

Richie

However I can't find a supplier, current address or source contact for them, despite having searched in the obvious places including here,  some online suppliers like 3smr and Wizard,  and the 3mm society website.   I have an address - 24 Layston Park, Royston - but it has a date attached of 2003.

Is there anyone who knows if this is still correct or can suggest a current contact?

Many thanks

Frank

Option 1....is there another 3mm supplier of etched internal underframe?

Option 2 does any one have some in there stash box willing to sell?

Yours forever hopeful 

G

Playing with one of the turnouts and a Triang 0-6-0, a Castle, and a brake van suggests that track and stock are tantalisingly close to working together.

With all B-to-Bs set to 3mm Society coarse standards everything seems to run happily through the straight road in both directions. However, on the turnout road there appears to be a tight spot at the knuckle of the crossing (at the angle between the wing and closure rails). Opening up the back to backs improves matters, but by the time the tightness eases, the locos then complain about going round the R1 curves by grinding and waddling all over the place.

I do note that the check rail gap on the turnout road on all the points seems narrower than that on the straight road.

Before I butcher a nice new turnout I thought I'd ask if anyone had some magic B-to-B number that will let Triang locos go through Hornby points but still go round R1 curves.

Failing that, should I just set all my B-to-Bs to 3mm coarse standard and modify the turnout to suit? I know some here replace moulded Peco check rails with actual rail. However I'm hoping to get away with attacking things with a small file, especially as problems only really seem to occur at that one very specific point at the knuckle.

Oh yes, perhaps I should have said, I'm hoping to retain the turnout's ability to take somewhat finer wheelsets (Hornby and/or Society intermediate standard). Too big an ask?

This is intended to document my attempts to build a fun layout with my children (ages 8 and 6), to run the Triang TT stock I inherited from my late and much missed Grandpa.

This will be made much easier by the launch of Hornby TT:120, and I will be freely and unapologetically using their track system, etc. I will also be running their models – I know the scale’s different, but I’m not aiming for finescale here, only for fun. As it’s not compatible coupling wise, it won’t be intermingled with the TT3, instead I plan to have TT:120 and TT3 running times, but I make no apology if in some future photograph a Hornby TT:120 Black 5 is in one platform and a Triang TT3 Castle in the other...

The layout is planned to be based on the Hornby track packs “double track oval with sidings”, but somewhat tweaked (will outline my ideas soon). It will be modular, despite the full layout fitting under the sofa as one board. This is partly because I want to practice baseboard construction for future projects. It’s also to allow potential expansion (on which more anon), and because in future the “under the sofa” space might be needed for something else, and a modular layout is easier to find alternative spaces for.

21hr print body underframe and bogies...

If only printer was 25mm longer would of got 4 body's flat at around 5 to 6 hrs....can't change now I've got two mono x printers. ...and not buying new.

G

Being a gullible idiot with poor impulse control interested in a wide range of models, I seem to have acquired a quantity of Triang TT locos, stock and track, the condition of which ranges from excellent in box to stored somewhere damp for a long time. All, at the very least, require cleaning and lubrication. However there are also a couple of improvements I'd like to do to the stock, if possible, to make it more suitable for a layout idea that's floating around in my head at the moment, which gives rise to a couple of questions.

I'd like to add interiors to the coaches, probably based on reduced and tweaked versions of the artwork of the card kits Peco offered for the 00 Kitmaster Mk1s. How do I get Triang TT mainline coaches open? Does the roof just prise off or are there hidden screws/clips somewhere?

The rolling resistance of all the stock is terrible. I've no doubt that cleaning and lubrication will help a bit, but I'm betting it still won't be very good. As my fantasy layout idea involves quite long trains I'd like to improve matters. The budget won't run to rewheeling everything (and I'd like to avoid it on philosophical grounds too) so I'm thinking about drilling out the axleboxes to take sleeve bearings of something better than diecast mazak for the original axles to run in. Small brass tube probably, or PTFE if I'm feeling high-tech and can get any with a thin enough wall. Has anyone else done this, and, if so, what were the results? Can anyone confirm that the rolling stock axle size is 1/16"? My Vernier says 1.6mm which seems too close to be coincidental.

Finally (for now) I'd like to get the bodies off some of the wagons to allow me to clean and repaint the chassis properly. I understand that the bodies should slide off after prising one end up to release a moulded ridge on the body from a groove in the chassis. Which end of the body has the ridge?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.