broadbent Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 I have just attached a Conrad point motor to replace the terrible Seep motor on one half of a Peco double slip. The motor moves, the attaching rod flexes, but the point does not move. The spring is still attached. If I manually move the point, the motor doesn't move. Help please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66C Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Some Peco points have too much resistance for the spring wire supplied with the Conrad motors. The solution is either to remove the over-centre spring or use heavier spring wire - the Conrad motor will accommodate heavier wire. Take the thicker wire supplied with the Conrad to a model shop and buy the next thickest piano wire. Remember not to use ordinary wire cutters when cutting it to length! Regards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted June 22, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 22, 2015 I would take the spring out. The Conrad motors are gear driven, not solenoids so the spring is not needed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadbent Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 I had hoped not to have to return to this subject, but... To recap, the motor works, the wire moves, the point doesn't. I now realise that it was relevant to mention that I am trying to operate a double slip Peco code 75, and this slip is fixed to other points and I cannot remove the spring from above. In which case I have to remove 4 other points. I also failed to mention having a bad back, so I am loathe to get under the bench to remove it and all the point motors etc. I have found it difficult to find a shop in London that sells thicker wire. I tried using the copper earth from a 15 amp cable. If I need to remove the spring on the slip, is there any way I could cut through the connectors and refix it without touching anything else? Indeed any suggestions, ideas would be great. Actually, if you're fit, you could come to Cockfosters and help me. (Only joking) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadbent Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 PS. Spoke to Peco, and I've discovered you can remove the spring from above. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RFS Posted June 25, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 25, 2015 For my Tortoise point motors I also needed thicker wire, and the recommended one was 0.036" (size 16) from here - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Piano-Wire-3-foot-long-92cm-for-Crafts-Metal-Working-Industrial-Toys-Games-/251996594122?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item3aac2adfca Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 I had hoped not to have to return to this subject, but... To recap, the motor works, the wire moves, the point doesn't. I now realise that it was relevant to mention that I am trying to operate a double slip Peco code 75, and this slip is fixed to other points and I cannot remove the spring from above. In which case I have to remove 4 other points. I also failed to mention having a bad back, so I am loathe to get under the bench to remove it and all the point motors etc. I have found it difficult to find a shop in London that sells thicker wire. I tried using the copper earth from a 15 amp cable. If I need to remove the spring on the slip, is there any way I could cut through the connectors and refix it without touching anything else? Indeed any suggestions, ideas would be great. Actually, if you're fit, you could come to Cockfosters and help me. (Only joking) You need a model aircraft shop for piano wire. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadbent Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 I bought the suggested piano wire, and removed the spring, but the motor doesn't move the point. Is there a maximum distance between the u/s of point and motor? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ray H Posted June 29, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29, 2015 Are you sure the fixing "clamp" is tight enough? From my experience there is very little difference between not tight enough and just about OK. Can you observe the motor when it is operated. Does the arm on the motor move from side to side? If not the motor is either dead or not wired correctly. Does the piano wire flex or stay straight? If it stays straight then the "clamp" isn't tight enough. If the piano wire flexes then there's too much resistance in the point/spring. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadbent Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 Thanks Ray. I can see the motor and it does move the arm. I suspect I have a problem with the geometry. Is the Conrad motor sensitive to geometry? But now it is far too hot in my loft to do anything. I'll report back. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ray H Posted June 30, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 30, 2015 Logically the geometry could play a part. It certainly seems to with SEEP motors. However, whilst having the arm and tie bar directly in line, a few degrees adrift probably isn't going to matter too much. Is the piano wire flexing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainman67 Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Hi The problem you are having with conrad point motors I wont claim to be an expert in model railways, but i can tell you of my own experiance with conrad poit motors.First they are cheaper than most others but i am afraid you get what you pay for In my experiance with conrad the is far to flimsy to opperate satisfactory even with out spring fitted,when you fit thicker piano wire you will find that the holder for the opperating wire will not stay put and moves also this slight movement then obsorbs your total travel and the point does not move enough to throw the point. I then made a new holder for piano wire and used a new 10 ba nut and bolt the hole for the piano wire i drilled and tapped so that i could ajust the wire up or down this was better but not totally satisfactory for me So i have six, if any one would like these drop me aline But back to the job in hand i will not bother with these myself and would recomend Tortoise fit them and forget them perfect opperation every time I hope this helps someone dirk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonB Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 No one has mentioned the obvious place to buy "piano wire" ---- a music shop selling guitars and pianos etc, I would think that many more people aspire to be musicians (at any level !) than build model railways, so there appear to be such shops in most towns. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadbent Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 Actually I bought 0.036" piano wire from a harpsichord dealer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainman67 Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 No one has mentioned the obvious place to buy "piano wire" ---- a music shop selling guitars and pianos etc, I would think that many more people aspire to be musicians (at any level !) than build model railways, so there appear to be such shops in most towns. Hi you are exactlly right i found one in the phone book rung the bloke he had every size you would ever need i gave him £2 and gave loads of variouse sizes mainly broken piano wires that were no good to him.] Dirk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadbent Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 You did better than me! I bought mine on Ebay. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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