Seep Motors Acutating rods

[MickeyMoggs]

I'm in the middle of building a layout. I've elected to use Seep motors for their cheapness and simplicity. Having wired them all in successfully, I'm having problems cutting down the actuating rod to a reasonable level. If I use my track cutters, I have to buy new track cutters, the rods are just too hard. If I use a cutting disc, I can't get them low enough to stop engines fouling on them. What do you guys use?

[uax6]

I've suggested before using a triangular  or half round needle file, it works for cutting down all sorts of odd rods. Hold one of the corners against the rod and 'saw' your way through...

 

Andy G

[devondynosoar118]

I used a pair of electricians hard wire cutters, bigger ones. They cut them fine. Track cutters are only suitable for soft metals and alloys and as you have discovered will immediately be destroyed on hard wire. I have no idea why the actuating rod is so hard, but man size cutters will do the job. These are about the minimum you will want- https://www.amazon.co.uk/70-02-160-atramentized-multi-component/dp/B0001D8PE4/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1461232167&sr=8-10&keywords=hard+wire+cutters

[Pete the Elaner]

They are a little too tough aren't they?

I use Full size sidecutters, but I have to get the pin as close as possible the the cutter's pivot in order to snip it. I have to use both hands too so I lose most of the cut off sections.

They don't quite cut the rod low enough but there it has enough play to push the pin a little proud in order to cut it.

[MartynJPearson]

I fit the motor in place, then mark on the rod where to cut, remove the motor and cut it with a hacksaw or sidecutters. It is a little tricky to get back in once cut, but I chose that route over cutting in place for fear of damaging the points.

 

They are tough though aren't they?!

[Michael Edge]

You need hard wire cutters or use a slitting disc to grind them off. Using any other sort of cutter, file or saw will only ruin the tools (very quickly). Xuron hard wire cutters are very good but don't cut very close.

[sdw7300]

Likewise, I used hard wire cutters. Please remember to wear safety glasses as the scrap end fires off at a very rapid pace!

[kevinlms]

A late friend of mine dealt with motor shafts (same difficulty) by measuring and marking. He'd then stick them in a vice & a sharp blow with a hammer fixed that problem!

[terrysoham]

And you also need to be aware that occasionally these shafts come loose and fall out as a result of the shock of the cutting action. To avoid this we hold the actuating shaft section with our fingers when we cut it with hard wire snips.

 

In addition, we always tell people in the vicinity to close their eyes when we are doing the cutting and I'm being serious!

 

Regards

[ktundu99]

I have a potentially unusual approach. I use double-sided sticky foam, about 2 or 3mm thick to stick my motors in place (no idea where to come by the stuff other than poundland). That way there's some wiggle-room if it doesn't go perfectly in first time, and one can compress the foam enough from underneath that even some less precise (and powerful) wire-cutters can get in and get a cut that's nice and flush once the foam's expanded again. After testing everything I tend to pop some screws in as well, not to tighten it up, but just to make sure the foam can't slip (which I've found it can do if it gets too warm).

[LNERGE]

I have these..

 

http://www.knipex.com/fileadmin/site/knipex/scripts/mediando/images/KNIPEX/Produktfotos/web/zoom/73711804k.jpg

 

Allegedly good for up to 3mm of piano wire. I wouldn't fancy buying them though. I 'suggested' they were good cutters to my boss some years back and he allowed my to order some. 

[LNERGE]

An afterthought of posting the above...

 

I always wear glasses so i don't fall over and bump into things. Don't put your head above the rod and look down on it. These cutters go through that size piano wire much easier than perhaps one would expect. The waste end is expelled with speed and force. I'm sure you can guess what i did. Luckily said glasses intercepted the projectile.

[Bernard Lamb]

 If I use a cutting disc, I can't get them low enough to stop engines fouling on them. What do you guys use?

A very small disk that will fit between the rails, with a fixing screw that has a very shallow head.

Bernard

[Brian]

I have cut possibly a hundred plus Seep motor drive pins.  Both for myself and on my club layouts.

I now only use a cheap 7" or 8" inch pair of side wire cutters from my local market tool supplier. But ebay sell loads too. Cost less than £4.  Example... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-200mm-Electricians-Soft-Grip-Side-Cutting-Wire-Cutters-Plier-Cutter-/121514376587?hash=item1c4ad23d8b:g:MoAAAOSwQiRUmIXO

 

I initally tried a Dremel with a metal cutting disc but found the heat generated enlarged/elongated the hole in the tie bar of Peco code 100 points, so I immediate swapped to the wire side cutters. No Problems at all now.  

As suggested do hold drive pin in one hand while cutting it off close to the tie bar with the wire cutters in the other hand. Wear eye protection just in case and ensure there are no on lockers too.  Finish off the top of the pin if needed with a flat needle file.