michaelp Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Can anyone tell me if the above jig would be helpful to aid in the building up Parkside Dundas 4mm wagon kits, if so could someone give a brief explanation how it is used? Thanks in advance Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Short answer: No. Long Answer: No, with a but. It is normally used for setting individual W irons to a correct wheelbase and keeping them in line, however there are issues with the BB one in use. Parkside kits already have the W irons set to wheelnbase as they are part of the solebar moulding. You could theoretically use such a jig for making sure they are parallel, however you'd need to make sure that there is sufficient space between bearing faces for it to slide in and use pinpoint axles with no wheels on to set up a 9' wheelbase. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 If you just want to make sure the axles are parallel to one another, then Brassmasters do a fold-up brass jig that works well in plastic kits:- http://brassmasters.co.uk/rollingstock.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 Thanks for the reply's, what I want to do really is to try find a way of being able to build these kits consistently so the run without problems. Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 If you just want to make sure the axles are parallel to one another, then Brassmasters do a fold-up brass jig that works well in plastic kits:- http://brassmasters.co.uk/rollingstock.htm Glad you posted that - I knew someone else made one that went between the wheels, I though it was PH Designs but couldn't find it on the website - not surprising if it's a Brassmasters product! I'm going to be doing my own version too, but it will be to suit the particularly odd wheelbases used by the Cambrian and won't have many other applications (8'6", 8'9", 9', 9'4.5", 9'9"!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Glad you posted that - I knew someone else made one that went between the wheels, I though it was PH Designs but couldn't find it on the website - not surprising if it's a Brassmasters product! I'm going to be doing my own version too, but it will be to suit the particularly odd wheelbases used by the Cambrian and won't have many other applications (8'6", 8'9", 9', 9'4.5", 9'9"!) I have a feeling that the Brassmasters gauge may cover some of these increments. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 You should have no issue building a parkside kit up flat. All I needed was a glass plate to make sure the wheels were flat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 Thank you everyone for the reply's. Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 For a good free running parkside kit, with no slack between the wheels and the bearings, try using some "loom bands". They are minature elastic bands that kids weave into patterns/bracelets whatever. They are like most kids crazes, going out of fashion now, but fitted over the axleboxes hold them just tight enough whilst the glue sets, but not tight enough to cause drag. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevejjjexcov Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Ah loom bands....my better half is a crafter and has loads of them. They have many uses but they DO NOT like hot water and after being used 2or3 times they will break Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 It is normally used for setting individual W irons to a correct wheelbase and keeping them in line, however there are issues with the BB one in use. Just what are the issues? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted May 1, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 1, 2016 Just what are the issues? Lack of instructions. Mike. (Abrigo, sombrero, ha ido!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 billbedford, on 01 May 2016 - 11:33, said:Just what are the issues? The trouble I am having is getting the chassis flat and sometimes very loose or tight running wheels, most of the chassis are twisted so after gentle twisting the opposite way I can get them to look flat on a glass mirror but for some reason when the buffer beams solebars and wheels are fitted and checked again there is sometimes one wheel not in contact with the mirror. It is here that I thought the jig may help but I realise that the problem is still a warp in the chassis......possibly I have tried building wagons a few different ways to see if this helps but no luck. All excess plastic/sprues are removed prior to building and all parts are dry fitted first and to look to be a good fit, with regard to the solebars I have only been gluing these in by sight which is probably where the wheel issues are coming from, I never thought of using small rubber bands to keep tension on the solebars, but then this raises the question, do both solebars get glued on then wheels and rubber bands added before the glue hardens or is it best done another way? I have built up a few wagons which are free running with no slop in the axles and a 'square' looking body and chassis only to see a wagon rocking on the track. I am using 'Plastic Magic' glue with applied with a pin flow applicator but don't these would have an affect on things. I have searched online for a guide or help and tips or even videos of wagon build ups but there isn't anything and as Enterprisingwestern has said the instructions aren't the best, I seem to have one problem or another with every build, I wouldn't care I love kit building and I think these wagons are so realistic compared to the RTR stuff. Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 The Brassmester jigs are all very well but the instruction do point out that the slots are under etched and need filing to get the axles to slide freely. To my mind this this is a bigger way of producing inaccuracy than if the axles fitted the slots in the first place (even with a modicum of slack). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Lack of instructions. We'll have less cheek from the pasty white settler, Tha'queue Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Just what are the issues? Mentioned in my original post, I should probably have made it clearer that those were the issues. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 There have been two versions of the jig. It was originally designed for soldering w-irons to a metal floor and so had only axle holes. It was later designed with additional slots. This is the one currently available. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 That's the one I have. I'm sure used as you just described it would work very well indeed, but for more general use I'd say that the Brassmasters design that fits between wheels would be preferable. Here are some pics of the issues I described for reference, wheels are Romford 00, I think they came from a Parkside kit as it happens! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Ive actually recently made my own wheelbase jig to use with w iron units as a CNC project for a class I was taking. Its designed to sit between the wheels and just hold it to a wheelbase while glue sets. One side can do even foot increments from 6-20, and half foot increments from (4.5) to 18.5. The other side can do +3" wheelbases from 6'3 -20'3 and +9" wheelbases from 4'9 to 18'9 I gave it such a huge range because it fit, and why the hell not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alastairq Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 That's the one I have. I'm sure used as you just described it would work very well indeed, but for more general use I'd say that the Brassmasters design that fits between wheels would be preferable. Here are some pics of the issues I described for reference, wheels are Romford 00, I think they came from a Parkside kit as it happens! DSXT2414.jpg DSXT2415.jpg DSXT2416.jpg A few snips, and off we jolly well go?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
agt613 Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 Sorry, guys, but I'm still waiting for the answer of how I should use this jig on a wagon underframe. Sorry to be befuddled. Merry Christmas, Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 Sorry, guys, but I'm still waiting for the answer of how I should use this jig on a wagon underframe. Sorry to be befuddled. Merry Christmas, Graham It depends what sort of wagon you are building. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 You use two 2mm diameter rods, thread them the w-irons and the jig so that the jig is within the w-irons, place the whole assembly on the underside of the wagon move it until the w-irons aligns with the crown plates solder or glue the w-rons to the wagon floor remove the rods What could be simpler? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 So only really of use to the OP with their Parkside kits if they use replacement etched w-irons? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted December 23, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 23, 2016 I think the OPs issue is getting the frames square. That can be achieved by those L-shaped magnets (don't know what they are properly called). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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