nicktamarensis Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hello, More ignorance on my part I'm afraid............ After many years away from the hobby I thought I'd make a fresh start with a couple of cheap purchases of loco's (a Hornby GWR pannier and ditto Jinty) but using Marcway track and points. The trouble is the engines do not like some of the Marcway pointwork and are inclined to 'jump' - particularly on two curved points and some of the standard 36" turnouts. I have been quite exacting about the way I have laid the track and so I doubt if it's anything to do with levels etc. The problem seems to occur more than not when the loco's hit the check rails of the points. But have I economised too much with the loco's and should these have finescale wheels? If so should I ditch these two locos and purchase something a little more suited to finescale pointwork? I've read somewhere about the 'steamroller' sized wheels on some of the cheaper loco models - perhaps I should have investigated a little further before buying the two I have. Any words of wisdom gratefully received. Cheers, Nick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ELTEL Posted June 7, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hi Nick Are the new locomotives or secondhand? Terry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicktamarensis Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hi Terry, The Jinty was secondhand bought off Ebay as was the Pannier although this came in its original box and looked new. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Typically the wheels on these are set around 14.2mm back to back. (This is true of many of the Margate era Hornby designs.) Put a drift on the axle end and bump them out to more like 14.4 - 14.5mm, and they should do somewhat better. A better match to your track choice from RTR, if it is small tank locos you want try any of Bachmann's 0-6-0Ts other than the J72, or Hornby's M7 or J50. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicktamarensis Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hello '34'. What exactly is a 'drift'? Where would I get these from and are they easily fitted? Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 In the context of our model railway application a nail with a shaft slightly smaller in diameter then the axle end, and the point filed flat. Something tough enough and not too hard that can apply the force required without doing much damage. Hold the mechanism across the palm of your hand, with the drift between middle finger and thumb on the axle end to be moved. Tap head of the drift with a pin hammer. The objective is to push the axle slightly into the wheel, and doing it this way the wheel should stay true on the axle with no risk to the quartering. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicktamarensis Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Well, I'll have a go although I'm not too sure of my ability to get to the correct measurement. As you say, is this action only required on the back axle? Won't this result in a difference on the other axle widths? Do I somehow reverse the procedure if I overdo the hammering and have to readjust? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Roger Sunderland Posted June 7, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2016 All Hornby back to back measurements of wheels are under sized to go round trainset curves. The Marcway points you have will be properly gauged. Try to regauge the loco wheels as per previous advice. Please note experience shows this only applies to Hornby, eg . Bachmann will traverse Marcway points without any alteration. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeremyC Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Well, I'll have a go although I'm not too sure of my ability to get to the correct measurement. As you say, is this action only required on the back axle? Won't this result in a difference on the other axle widths? Do I somehow reverse the procedure if I overdo the hammering and have to readjust? I'd agree with the other replies that the problem is probably the back to back, but before trying to regauge the wheel sets I suggest you buy a back to back gauge. It's a good idea to use this on every set of wheels, both on locos and rolling stock. http://www.marcway.net/list2.php?col=head&name=Back+To+Back+Gauges Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravenser Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 All Hornby back to back measurements of wheels are under sized to go round trainset curves. The Marcway points you have will be properly gauged. Try to regauge the loco wheels as per previous advice. Please note experience shows this only applies to Hornby, eg . Bachmann will traverse Marcway points without any alteration. Modern Hornby wheels should be okay, though rolling stock wheels are often tighter than they should be - good enough to go through , but they could be better as indicated above (You don't need a drift on rolling stock wheels - a slight twist should do the job.) I run both Bachmann and Hornby stock through Marcway points without problems - but I only have 21st century production. Your first check should be the back to backs on the locos . If you don't have a back-to-back gauge then you can use a set of dial calipers A second check,. if you've checked the locos , is the track. In the past I have come across a Marcway point that was significantly under gauge , and a 2-8-0 objected to it. To check that, you need a roller gauge But from what you've said I suspect your locos are pre2000 production with wheels set to 13.9mm back to back - that's definitely too narrow for Marcway and needs easing out, as described above Back to back gauges and roller gauges are available from DOGA - you need the ones labelled Intermediate (not Finescale) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 You may also find that on older locos like the Hornby 0-6-0's, the wheels may also be a bit course for use with code 75 trackwork. If you intend on using stock from this era (and there is nothing wrong in doing so) using a product like Peco code 100 track range may be preferable Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicktamarensis Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 Phew, Thanks guys. I'll obtain the requisite gauges and do as you suggest with the the application of the 'drift' All the stock runs perfectly on the Marcway track - it's just a few of the points which are the problem. Nick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicktamarensis Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 Hello all. I tried (somewhat tentatively and with heart in mouth I have to say!) the small hammer and 'drift' procedure. Bingo! After only a very tiny increase in axle width as a result both loco's now work perfectly over the points and I am much relieved! Many, many thanks for the advice. Nick. , Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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