Applying transfers

[47375]

Hi All,

 

Hopefully someone might be able to help... I have been repainting a class 122 DMU and all was going ok until I started applying transfers/varnishing.

 

Basically I sprayed the side BR blue (left it a week or so) then applied the transfers and my next step was to finish it with Matt varnish. But the backing of the transfers didn't disappear and just got more prominent after applying Phoenix pre thinned Matt varnish, the transfers were rail tech ones....

 

After reading up I think I should gloss varnish first then apply transfers the next day then Matt varnish?

 

Just wondered what process people find best and did I use the right type varnish for rail tec transfers?

 

Below is how it turned out before I wiped it all off with some thinners which luckily took it back to the previous finish so I'm ready to transfer it again but don't want to make the same mistake twice!

 

Thanks for any help people might be able to offer

 

[bertiedog]

Two or three things, make sure the water you soak in is clean, and slighlty warm, apply if possible to a gloss or satin surface, and use Decal fix or other makers equivalent.

 

Humbrol do one, it is added to the water, and you apply as usual, but it softens the transfer and as it dries the silvering should not occur. The silvering is air under the transfer. If you still get it, then the transfers may have deteriorated in some way, but Decal fix should sort it out. If you have a scrap transfer surplus, then try it out on another surface first to see what happens.

 

Make sure the transfer is properly soaked with the Decal Fix, don't pull it from the solution too soon, and use a wet brush tip to push it about till right, then dry te brush and use it to start to fraw water away from the transfer, then use a tissue to mop up, and finally gently press on with a tissue whilst still wet,  then leave overnight, and they should be OK.

 

With large transfers if you get bubbles when using Decal fix then just prick with a needle, and press down with tissue. Any Hornby stockist or model shop should have the Decal fix.

 

Stephen.

[Spitfire2865]

Ok, so how I do waterslides is a coat of gloss varnish. Then apply the decal with water, dab dry and press flat, right after, brush with microsol to soften and help conform to the surface, and after about 30 seconds, I again dab and press into the surface gently. I find microsol often crinkles the decals if left alone, unlike its instructions which state to leave it to dry naturally.

 

For the british rail logo, it might help to gently cut around the decal film before even wetting it, just cutting enough to break the decal film as to remove the unneeded film on the decal.

Then, even if the backing shows up even slightly, it just looks whiter.

Wont work for numbers or letters though unfortunately.

[johnb]

I would always apply transfers/decals to a gloss surface and use a fixing/softening solution. The pic you show is a classic case of applying the transfer to a matt surface without any fixing solution.

 

It can SOMETIMES be rectified/minimised by soaking with fixing solution BEFORE any over coating is done.

 

John

[47375]

Thanks all

 

Yes it was directly onto the natural finish and I didn't use any solution.... Think I will order some gloss varnish from precision paints

 

He transfers were brand new so they should have been fine and I'm open to admit user error

[47375]

Meant to say I have the below, would this do the job or is microsol/decal fix better?

 

[bertiedog]

The US ones appear to have more softening solvent in them, it's alcohol based. The Humbrol one is milder. but works fine, it is unfortunately up to the skill of the modeller, and it takes a bit of practice and experience to be able to get it right all the time.

 

I have not tried the Revell version of the setting solution.

 

An old trick is to add to the paint surface, before applying the transfer a tiny spot of Lepages office glue...it is gum arabic based, a natural water based adhesive, and can be bought in good art shops these days as Gum Arabic solution. You still use the Decal fix, but the tiny addition of the gum makes sure there is no air under the transfer. It was always done by a friend who used Floquil Paint, that is naturally very matt in finish.

 

Stephen.

[John Isherwood]

The US ones appear to have more softening solvent in them, it's alcohol based. The Humbrol one is milder. but works fine, it is unfortunately up to the skill of the modeller, and it takes a bit of practice and experience to be able to get it right all the time.

I have not tried the Revell version of the setting solution.

Stephen.

 

Waterslide transfers definitely require a gloss finish - the glossier the better - to which they are applied when the gloss has fully dried.

 

I use Johnsons Klear Floor Lacquer as the varnish; at least two coats.

 

Recently, I have found that smaller transfers can be applied directly to patches of wet Klear - but you have to be very quick as Klear is quick-drying. Ideally, you want the transfer to be suspended in the wet Klear so that there is no possibility of air being trapped behind the transfer.

 

Once all has well dried, a misting of Testors Dullcote from a can will give a uniform satin / matt finish to the entire model, with no trace of transfer carrier film.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood,

Cambridge Custom Transfers.

[John Tomlinson]

Worth mentioning that some decal softeners will do for the decals, so beware.

 

Many years ago I bought a bottle of an American product, Solvaset, from the long gone Victors in Pentonville Road. Somewhat stronger than Microsol/ Microset, it did a great job on many occasions. However one day I used it - IIRC on the Revell decals for a Harrier aircraft, and the decals  started to decompose rapidly! I still have the Solvaset, and do use it with care, but it is a cautionary tale nonetheless.

 

Worth mentioning as well that modern super thin high quality decals do have a limit as to how much they can be pushed and pulled without breaking, so again go easy.

 

John.

[47375]

Thanks to everyone that replied, this morning I applied a scrap transfer from the pack onto a smooth piece of plastic I found in a cupboard, then put some Decal Soft (one from photo) onto it and left it but it started to destroy it, so tried again just leaving the decal soft on for 30 seconds to 1 min, dried and left it and it's gone clear and looks good... Also ordered some gloss varnish, Kleers wax, testors can and some satin varnish to try again when they arrive so I can do the model properly

 

Victors is a blast from the past, used to travel up on the train from Reading in the daytime to buy Roco intermodal wagons and Cargovans was a great shop.

[Karhedron]

Definitely gloss varnish first before applying the transfers. Coincidentally, I also use Klear.

 

Here are some coaches I did using Railtec transfers. I have always found them good in the past.

 

 

[Jintyman]

These are Railtec transfers applied directly onto a MATT surface, but with the use of Microsol softening fluid and Microsol fixing fluid. Then it was misted over with Testors Dullcote.

 

 

Gloss and Satin finishes are better to apply transfers to, but you can apply to matt with success, but only using a softener.

 

Jinty

[John Isherwood]

These are Railtec transfers applied directly onto a MATT surface, but with the use of Microsol softening fluid and Microsol fixing fluid. Then it was misted over with Testors Dullcote.

 

Tally 032.jpg

 

Gloss and Satin finishes are better to apply transfers to, but you can apply to matt with success, but only using a softener.

 

Jinty

 

Lovely model - but shouldn't an apparently brand new wagon have black patches behind the lettering?

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[Jintyman]

Lovely model - but shouldn't an apparently brand new wagon have black patches behind the lettering?

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Late 50's 16t minerals didn't all have black patches, and this was finished as a very heavily weathered one as can be seen from the deliberate dents along the top rim, this photo was prior to the weathering and was just to show how transfers could be made to adhere to a matt surface, nothing else.

 

Jinty

[47375]

Thanks to everyone that replied on this, I applied gloss varnish first, left it a day to dry and then added transfers, 30 seconds of Revell decal soft applied then dab dry and the backing has disappeared

 

Have some Testors Dullcoat to mist over the model later today once they have dried out fully

 

Going to try Johns Klear on the next repaint but mine mine hasn't arrived yet and I was too impatient to wait as the gloss varnish arrived quicker

 

Thanks again

 

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u378/mark47375/45E156C8-1680-4AA9-8EF3-1B2DD3DECC52_zpsnl3tnlrl.png

[daz9284]

Hello all, I have been reading this thread for advice, as I have just bought some Railtec transfers for some modelling projects:

 

1) Network Rail logo's to add to a kit tamper

2) Jet A1 Aviation Fuel labels to add to Hornby ex BP TTA wagons

3) Blue Circle Cement logo's to add to to some Kibri 1:87 kit cement lorries.

 

I also have some micro-set and micro-sol from R3-Sprays.

 

All surfaces of all model are currently matt, and I want a matt finish. From reading above and the instructions, am I correct in thinking:

 

1) apply a gloss varnish to surface that the transfer is going to be applied to, and leave overnight

2) soak tranfer in slightly warm water until loose from backing paper

3) apply a thin layer of micro-set to the surface (all surfaces are flat) prior to applying transfer

4) apply transfer and dab away excess water

5) apply another thin layer of micro-set over the transfer

6) leave to dry overnight

7) apply thin coats of matt varnish to the models

 

regards,

Darryl

[Spitfire2865]

Hello all, I have been reading this thread for advice, as I have just bought some Railtec transfers for some modelling projects:

 

1) Network Rail logo's to add to a kit tamper

2) Jet A1 Aviation Fuel labels to add to Hornby ex BP TTA wagons

3) Blue Circle Cement logo's to add to to some Kibri 1:87 kit cement lorries.

 

I also have some micro-set and micro-sol from R3-Sprays.

 

All surfaces of all model are currently matt, and I want a matt finish. From reading above and the instructions, am I correct in thinking:

 

1) apply a gloss varnish to surface that the transfer is going to be applied to, and leave overnight

2) soak tranfer in slightly warm water until loose from backing paper

3) apply a thin layer of micro-set to the surface (all surfaces are flat) prior to applying transfer

4) apply transfer and dab away excess water

5) apply another thin layer of micro-set over the transfer

6) leave to dry overnight

7) apply thin coats of matt varnish to the models

 

regards,

Darryl

Afaik, microset is for the surface before the transfer is applied, while microsol is for the transfer after it has been applied.

Ive gotten by without microset, only using microsol and a gloss surface.

[daz9284]

Afaik, microset is for the surface before the transfer is applied, while microsol is for the transfer after it has been applied.

Ive gotten by without microset, only using microsol and a gloss surface.

many thanks, I've done what you said in applying a gloss surface, then using microsol to uneven surfaces.

 

regards,

darryl