ozzyo Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Hello all, it's a long time posting anything about a build as you all will know. I don't feel that I can go back into a loco build at the moment as we are still sortieing out FiL house out, but I want to do some building work to get myself back up to speed. That I can just put down when I have to. So I thought how about a snow plough kit. What do you get in the kit? Not a lot of parts! only about 12, but these parts are fantastic. All the detail is on them (about the only thing that is not on them is for the late ploughs that had the hand rails on the front of the ploughs). The main parts. I forgot this bit, The casting and screws Etc. I'm using wheels from Peartree Engineering, as these are all steel and don't appear to rust!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Like some do? OzzyO. PS. don't know when my next post will be, but I hope it will be soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Smeeton Posted June 24, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 24, 2016 Looking forward to seeing this take shape. All the best Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Welcome back, and I hope the next post is soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Good to see you back!! Regards, Deano. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Nice little project to get you going again, looks to be an interesting kit. Brings back memories of pushing the full size ones around on the South Eastern and few years ago. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Yes, a great simple quick kit to build. Nicely moulded as well with the nose of the plough being very sharp. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Welcome back Paul. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Hey hi OzzyO, It's nice to see you posting again and what a timely posting it is too. I have only just purchased one of these myself so I shall be eagerly watching this build. Crack on fella and show us how it's done Cheers Lee PS... we are well over due a couple of beers over a chit-chat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Kooked on the JLTRT website, couldn't find this kit, can anyone link to it, please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold markjj Posted June 26, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 26, 2016 Kooked on the JLTRT website, couldn't find this kit, can anyone link to it, please?It's a bit hard to find because JLTRT listed it under wagons...http://www.justliketherealthing.co.uk/zza-independent-snowplough-p-319.html?cPath=7_41 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 Hello all, thanks for the kind words. Yes Lee it's been a while since we had a chin wag and a pint. Back onto the build, setting up the inner frames. I set the front and rear bearings in the frames and then glued them in place (isn't glue slow compared to solder) and ran through them with a 4.8mm reamer. That's when I found that the front wheels were binding! So I had two options reduce the front bearings or do some work on the wheels. Both options would have worked, but in the end I decide to do some work on the wheels. The Pear-tree loco wheels have one wheel that screws on and the other one fixed in place with a plastic bush, so I decided to cut the plastic bush the sticks out off. Thinking about it I may will have caused a route for a short, nothing that a thin plasicard washer won't sort out. Before After The inner frames ready for spraying, You can just make out a small hole just in front of the rear bearing this is for springing the centre wheels. The rear (only) buffer beam in place, looks like a small amount of filler is required. The bearing for the centre axle, as you can see I've filed off part of the rim this is for the spring wire to sit on and with a bit of luck stop the bearings rotating. The frames after painting and the masking removed (I use the self sticking dots that you get from stationery shops). One wheeled up and the other one getting ready for them, you can see the wire for the centre axle spring. I was going to use phos. bronze but I couldn't find it so I used some 0.6mm N/S wire instead. The instructions say to use spoked wheels but for what you can see of the wheels? Apart from the cost, P/T disc wheels £10 for two axles, spoked wheels £15 for one axle. But you don't get the free rust. When I came to fit the inner frames to the base of the body I found a small problem in that the inner frames rocked. In the last photo you can just make out a small light mark on the top of the apex on the front (Z) inner frame. As the inner frames had been painted I decided to remove the excess from the inside of the base of the body using a slitting disc, not much had to be removed. So now you all know to check these parts before painting. Now to go shopping! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 Hello all, back after a bit of shopping and work. Starting work on the pillbox (cab) the brass castings in place, only the handrails to fit. While the glue was going off I decided to drill a few holes in the plough base, I don't like the idea of only one hole going into a space. Call me old-fashioned. The handrails in place all twenty of them. J.L.T.R.T. say to use 0.7mm wire but I decided to use 0.6mm N/S wire. I do use spacers to keep the wires from the body as you can see. In all I used about 1'6" of wire to do them all (only one went into the bin, honest). I must try and remember to use this background, grey on grey does not work too well. The parts for the pill boxes all cleaned up on the inside (just got to fit the Brenn gun in the window). Starting to build the cabs, I went for how you would build a wagon, one side and one end. Then build the box. After this it was to clean up the base on one of my large wet'n'dry boards. A dry fit on the base of the ploughs. Now it's the three main parts of the plough. that are going for a test fit. The parts all dry fitted and looking very good. It looks like a ZZA to me. Still a bit of work to do on them but up to now only about 8 hours each (a lot of that time is due to the glue going off). OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Hi OzzyO, Great updates, thank you. I'm glad you've had a go with the Peartree Engineering wheels. I have been looking at those myself as they seem to be very similar, if not the same as the Roxy wheels.... and a pound cheaper. I notice that you have had the same problem I had with wheels binding that I had on my very first class 40 build (such a long time ago now). I ended up chamfering the brass bearings a little but hey, I think the solution is six of one, half a dozen of the other to be honest. Incidentally, my last class 40 build I filed the brass top hat down a little thereby keeping the depth of the plastic insulation - a third solution. I like your idea for springing the centre wheelset but how do you stop the spring wire from just turning as it seems you have just drilled into the frame and pushed the 0.6mm N/S wire in? Keep going with the updates. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Now I know why I don't build many JLTRT kits.....it does look nice, but really? £100 for a dozen plastic parts and a few generic castings? They have to be joking? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Welcome back OzzyO, while your looking for your Mojo, would you have a look for mine Even at the outset the plough looked an easy way back in but you've encountered a few problems on the way, Hey Ho I guess thats the joy of modelling Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian@stenochs Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Now I know why I don't build many JLTRT kits.....it does look nice, but really? £100 for a dozen plastic parts and a few generic castings? They have to be joking? The kit might only have a few parts but how did they get to be the shape they are? Just remember the research, development,pattern making, test building, revisions, etc that go into making what is quite an esoteric prototype. How many do you think they will need to sell just to recover the costs? Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 How many do you think they will need to sell just to recover the costs? So true - look at the price for the 21T mineral kit, less than £50 for what is a tricky prototype. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 Hi OzzyO, I like your idea for springing the centre wheelset but how do you stop the spring wire from just turning as it seems you have just drilled into the frame and pushed the 0.6mm N/S wire in? Keep going with the updates. Cheers Lee Hello Lee, the N/S was glued into a 0.65mm hole using a bit of paper to keep it off the frames, the wire is used to stop the bearing rotating as much as spring the axle down Now I know why I don't build many JLTRT kits.....it does look nice, but really? £100 for a dozen plastic parts and a few generic castings? They have to be joking? Hello JeffP, as Ian has mentioned the cost of making the patterns must have cost a bob or two as each pattern can only be used for one part, maybe £5,000 so just to cover the cost of the pattern making that's 50 kits just to cover the cost of the patterns. I have gone for two but I think that most will only go for one. Not that many of the castings are generic, about the only ones that I've seen before are the couplings. So true - look at the price for the 21T mineral kit, less than £50 for what is a tricky prototype. Hello Graham, as this is a one piece body moulding this will help keep the cost down, also if the frames can be used for another wagon this will also help. The chances are that more people will also buy these wagons than will buy a snowplough so they can bring the cost down. Now a question. Did someone produce a brass snowplough kit a few years back? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Yes, wasn't it MMP? My bad, it was Postwar Prototypes, still David Parkins, but now sold on and presently marketed by PRMRP. http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=178 http://www.prmrp.com/diesel-kits.html £43!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 the N/S was glued into a 0.65mm hole using a bit of paper to keep it off the frames, the wire is used to stop the bearing rotating as much as spring the axle down ah, ok. 'gotcha'!! Thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 Yes, wasn't it MMP? My bad, it was Postwar Prototypes, still David Parkins, but now sold on and presently marketed by PRMRP. http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=178 http://www.prmrp.com/diesel-kits.html £43!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hello JeffP, sounds like £43 for a kit that most people could not build!!!!!!!!!! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Hello JeffP, sounds like £43 for a kit that most people could not build!!!!!!!!!! OzzyO. And Why? I've one sitting right here from when the kit was in the MMP range. It looks no different from the one being built on this thread. Just that you have to be able to solder! David Parkins Modern Motive Power www.djparkins.com Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Hi Paul Glad to see you back at the bench. The build is looking great. This is for the new club layout I guess? Look forward to more updates All the best Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 And Why? I've one sitting right here from when the kit was in the MMP range. It looks no different from the one being built on this thread. Just that you have to be able to solder! David Parkins Modern Motive Power www.djparkins.com Hello David, my comment was not meant as a slight on the kit just that some people will buy a kit that is above there build ability and then blame the kit as it is in a "lower" price range. Not that it is in a higher build range than what they can do. OzzyO. PS. David I can solder and solder very well as a lot of people on here and you know well, I just don't like to use glue but I want to get back into the workshop after what has happened in my life. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold markjj Posted June 29, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2016 And Why? I've one sitting right here from when the kit was in the MMP range. It looks no different from the one being built on this thread. Just that you have to be able to solder! David Parkins Modern Motive Power www.djparkins.com The main difference between a JLTRT kit and one of yours David is that your kits don't have 6" thick bodywork. The JLTRT one closely resembles a Tiger Tank in body thickness....It's a shame you didn't do a 21t mineral wagon to I bet the JLTRT one has scale 3-4" thick sides to unlike your kits which are far more "Like the Real Thing" in every way shape and form..... Mark J Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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