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For those who like old Motorcycles.


DDolfelin

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4 hours ago, KeithMacdonald said:

 

Well, yes, he was elegant in a caddish "Would you like to go for a ride in my Jaaaag?" kind of way, but useless at driving or navigating.

"Ev'rybody down!"

 

I must admit that having the general shape and physique that I settled into, long ago I would settle for looking like George Melly... just so long as I don't look like Boss Hogg...

 

I do in fact have a wardrobe of lightweight khaki and unbleached linen clothes, comes from my wanderings in ME, Asia and Florida. My kids refer to it generically as my "Man from Del Monte outfit"

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8 hours ago, Kickstart said:

The FZR is now just starting to go back together.

Interesting seeing the frame like that.  Even with the cleverest robots, I wonder how much hand welding still needed to go into it ...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Slowly getting there. Problems with the forks / fork buses so can't do much with those for now.

Found out the rear wheel I had powder coated was the wrong wheel....... Doh! But now got the actual rear wheel powder coated (and a spare of the later size just in case tyres become readily available again).

 

Wiring loom in place. New tyres titted and front disks. Rear wheel in place. Clocks stripped down and cleanup out thoroughly.

 

All the best

 

Katy

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The box in the foreground?

 

That is just a sealed bag of ground glass (for the blasting cabinet). Just using it at the moment in case the bike falls over - to break the fall and prevent damage. There is another on the other side.

 

All the best

 

Katy

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23 hours ago, Kickstart said:

That is just a sealed bag of ground glass (for the blasting cabinet) ...

 

Cheers Katy.  Seeing as how the only complete rewires I ever did were on relatively simple Brit bikes, I've been meaning to ask you how you do your more complex ones.  Is it "just" a case of working from a circuit diagram and photos of the original in-situ?  Essentially I'm wondering how, when the loom has to snake its way all over a complicated frame, you ever work out how the various branches get to where they need to be.

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Hiya

 

I cheated a bit. I used small cable ties to bubdle the wires together at all the joins (the little cable ties that come with multi packs which are often pretty useless), the cut the tape away covering the loom. The replaced each wire in turn that I wanted to replace. Fortunately on the FZR most of the connectors are standard small blade connectors which are easy to get replacement terminals for. One connector (for a complex relay) seems to be quite bespoke to Yamaha, but I managed to find one (from Kojaycat).

 

This way I could just feed the replacement wires through the cable ties holding the bundles together to keep the routing and lengths right. Once I had finished I used a non adhesive tape for cover the loom again (I just used an adhesive tape to secure the ends), cutting off the cable ties as I went along.

 

The loom has a reasonable amount of flex. Although maybe slightly less now as I used a larger gauge wire for the 3 from the stator to the regulator / rectifier.

 

All the best

 

Katy

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Hiya

 

Forks back from being sorted and now fitted. I hate fitting steering head bearings!

 

Down side is I went to take the fan bracket off the radiator, and the mounts for it are a bit dodgy.

 

But at least it now has 2 wheels on it. No longer a "unike" as a friend called it.

 

Brake hoses and brake pads ordered so they should be here soon. Couple of parts I need to replate, and a few bits I need to cerakote which I had forgotten to do (front brake line splitter and the master cylinder clamp)

 

All the best

 

Katy

 

 

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1 hour ago, Kickstart said:

... a few bits I need to cerakote ...

 

Well, thanks to Google I now know what Cerakote is.  What fun I could have with a D Shadow nowadays with all these newfangled coatings.

 

Whatever, what's the plastic tank for?

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3 minutes ago, spikey said:

 

Well, thanks to Google I now know what Cerakote is.  What fun I could have with a D Shadow nowadays with all these newfangled coatings.

 

Whatever, what's the plastic tank for?

 

Plastic tank at the back is just the header tank for the cooling system.

 

Cerakote is a very thin finish and chemical resistant. Main thing I use it for is brake calipers (as brake fluid won't wreck it). I have also used it on some brackets on this bike. Down side is you need to cook it for a while, and that somewhat limits the size of things I can coat (I bought a cheap oven for the garage for it)

 

All the best

 

Katy

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Steering head bearings can be time consuming, but at least modern bikes have caged inners rather than forty or so separate steel balls. The worst job is often getting the outer races out of the frame. On older bikes there's often a pair of grooves inside the headstock tube to get a drift into, if not, there's a cheat.

Cut a small piece of flat bar, 5 or 6mm thick that just rests inside the taper then weld the two ends into the race. It's easy then to drop a large diameter bar down the headstock and tap out the bearing. There's enough heat to expand the headstock a little without doing any damage.

Obviously, only do one side at a time! 

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6 minutes ago, Kickstart said:

Getting bearings and the like out is something that is pushing me towards getting a mig welder!

 

Just do it.  ASAP.  Then start wondering why you didn't get one ages ago.  I'm amazed how cheap they are nowadays.

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10 minutes ago, spikey said:

 

Just do it.  ASAP.  Then start wondering why you didn't get one ages ago.  I'm amazed how cheap they are nowadays.

 

2 bleed nipples sheared off on the rear caliper (despite loads of heat), and getting those out with a welder is probably easiest.

 

All the best

 

Katy

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3 hours ago, Kickstart said:

 

... getting those out with a welder is probably easiest.

 

That's surely a good enough excuse to invest.  But if you need another one, you can get some very cool welding helmets nowadays with awesome graphics on ...

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That always seems to happen when some baboon has wound them shut so hard they have started to twist, probably more than once, then corrosion takes over. A decade or two later, you arrive, basically facing a panzer division with a pointy stick.

 

I have shared both your optimism and the depressing sense of inevitable defeat.

 

You probably do it too, but I tend to heat around the bleed nipple and then give the top a sharp, square on rap with a small hammer, I find it helps jar the thread loose.

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6 minutes ago, spikey said:

 

That's surely a good enough excuse to invest.  But if you need another one, you can get some very cool welding helmets nowadays with awesome graphics on ...

 

I have spent up for this month and now you remind me of that! 😝

 

5 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

That always seems to happen when some baboon has wound them shut so hard they have started to twist, probably more than once, then corrosion takes over. A decade or two later, you arrive, basically facing a panzer division with a pointy stick.

 

I have shared both your optimism and the depressing sense of inevitable defeat.

 

You probably do it too, but I tend to heat around the bleed nipple and then give the top a sharp, square on rap with a small hammer, I find it helps jar the thread loose.

 

I did get these very hot, but they snapped without much force. Wanted them out initially so I could quickly bleed it through and pump the pistons out (compressed air wasn't doing it, and the piston puller wouldn't move them). The bike had sat for more than a decade.

 

The wedges are interesting. I don't have anything like that. what do you use them for?

 

All the best

 

Katy

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The bleed nipple was probably stressed almost to its elastic limit before you got there.

 

Fox wedges can be used where baboons usually pick up a hammer and screwdriver.

Such as splitting stubborn cases, lifting a bearing that is hard up against a surface, such as a bottom yoke, or slipped between an engine and a frame lug to spring the frame slightly and get the bolt holes lined up. Anywhere you need to gently ease apart components without damage as the taper is so slight. I discovered them working in petrochemicals and aviation development and always kept a set in my tool box.

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So, as I now have an Electra Glide blocking the garage, what to do with it? A thing like that needs a purpose!

 

Well, I have just retired from grass track racing. The committee was becoming increasingly fractious and it was time for new blood. We'd had a couple of highly successful seasons and I thought I'd sign off on a high note. 

 

I'm still a member of VMCC but take little other part. I don't find Section Runs particularly enjoyable, I've never learnt to ride in a group. 

 

But I've never done the Founders Day Rally (an old-style navigation event ending at Stanford Hall). I also discovered that the Navigation Rally run in 2020 and 2021 has become a permanent event - a simple event involving a series of waypoints to be covered over a period from Easter to early Oct, reporting to a Secretaryvin Head Office, with badges for successful completion. Sounds like a plan to me. 

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Amazing what comes up on the local FB selling pages ...

 

312380324_861204421925705_49204925473248

312130536_861204935258987_62750201535154

 

Apparently it's a 1924 Triumph board racer.  Non-runner, listed at OIEO £3500 ...

 

 

 

 

Edited by spikey
Pedantry
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49 minutes ago, spikey said:

Amazing what comes up on the local FB selling pages ...

 

312380324_861204421925705_49204925473248

312130536_861204935258987_62750201535154

 

Apparently it's a 1924 Triumph board racer.  Non-runner, listed at OIEO £3500 ...

 

 

 

 

Weeeeeeeellllllllll..... where to begin? It certainly isn't a "board track racer", there being no history of it in this country and no history of Triumphs being used for it in the USA. 

 

The all-welded frame looks modern. 

 

The clutchless, single speed all-chain transmission looks bogus. A Triumph of that era would have had a 2 or 3-speed Sturmey Archer gearbox.

 

1924 is too late for pedals on a motorcycle of any size. I'm not surprised it doesn't run, the overall gear ratio appears to be about 3:1 which is far too high. 

 

I don't recognise the forks, but no 1920s Triumph had forks like that. 

 

A Triumph of that era would have had a dummy belt rim back brake...

 

 

 

 

Edited by rockershovel
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