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5Bel- DCKits Hastings Unit


5Bel

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HI All,

 

I have had this kit for ages. The bodies have been built for quite a while, so I have decided to finish it. I have started with the Trailer First as it is quite an unusual vehicle. I have modified the Replica BR1 bogies to more represent the ones on the real thing. I will be using Replica glazing cut down to fit the windows. Here are some pics of it so far.

 

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Underframe showing shortened truss rodding.

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Corridor Side.

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Compartment Side.

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Modified Replica bogie.

 

I will be finishing it using a my usual mixture of MJT and Southern Pride detailing parts. It will be painted in Blue/Grey as it is about time I moved away from taking the easy opyion of single colour liveries. I still need to buy the power bogie, this will be the Hornby 5 Pole version. Comments welcome as always.

 

Cheers for now, Ian

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  • 1 month later...

Hi All,

 

A quick update on the Hastings unit. The TFK has had hinges and roof furniture put on and now just needs painting.

 

post-7006-127143051263.jpg

 

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I have also rewheeled the motor bogie and used various bits of plastic and brass to detail the DC Kits motor bogie sideframes. The dummy motor bogie is the basic Southern Pride shell with DC Kits sideframes and a Hornby pick-up unit from a Hymek.

 

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Next up is doing the underframe for the MBS. I need to order some bits from Southern Pride and get bogies from Replica. Comments welcome as always.

 

Cheers for now, Ian

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Hi Bob,

 

Thanks for the comment. I don't normally add weight to the trailer cars as I find that once I have put the interior in they seem to be heavy enough. That said I don't actually have a layout to run them on yet!! Once again thanks for the comment.

 

Cheers for now, Ian

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Good stuff. This is the short version I think? Will that trailer first have the lone second compartment at one end - or was that on the 6L versions only? Makes me slightly nostalgic for Warrior Square station after college when a 12 car would always blast through before my train home.

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Hi All,

 

I used to go to Hastings a lot when I was younger and always tried to get into the downgraded compartment in the trailer first. If we could not get into that, we used to sit in the DMBS. It gave quite an eventful ride at speed!! The finished model will be finished in early 70's condition, so won't have the downgraded compartment. Thanks again for the comments.

 

Cheers for now, Ian

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Hi All,

 

Done a bit more to the 6S. I have made a bracket for the motor bogie and wired the dummy bogie in as well. I have also made a start on the underframe, fitting the cut down underframe trussing.

 

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The replacement grille is made from the mesh in an air filter for a face mask. Just a note on the downgraded compartment in the Trailer first, I have a photo of a 6L and there are two compartments downgraded.

 

Cheers for now, Ian.

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The replacement grille is made from the mesh in an air filter for a face mask.

 

Am I right in thinking that the kit comes with the original slatted radiator, rather than the later mesh version?

 

And are you going to fit a model 4SRKT in to each power car? Southern Pride do a very nice looking resin casting.

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Hi Pete,

 

You are right, the kit does come with the original slatted radiator, and very good it is too. I will be fitting one of the Southern Pride castings, they do look good. Only fitting one though, there is only room in the dummy DMBS.

 

Cheers for now, Ian.

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I am impressed. Shows what can be achieved from DC Kits as a basis for a more detailed model. May have to buy one from Charlie Petty for my project.

 

Shame there is no room for sound and two smoke units to get the full Hastings effect!

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Hi Pete,

 

You are right, the kit does come with the original slatted radiator, and very good it is too. I will be fitting one of the Southern Pride castings, they do look good. Only fitting one though, there is only room in the dummy DMBS.

 

Cheers for now, Ian.

I guess that's the downside of using a Hornby bogie, but then it's a lot cheaper than a Black Beetle (or probably two in a six car unit).

 

 

I'm enjoying reading this thread - I don't think I've ever seen one of these Hastings kits made up before.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Ian,

 

Watching your thread with interest as this is one of the kits on my list after my 3H.

 

Even took in a railtour to Severn valley to re-live a piece of my past and get some much needed photos

 

I've noticed that you have removed the door handles etc... something i still have to do on my build. Was it easy enough without marking the plastic too much ? I presume your fitting brass ones ?

 

Be interested to see the radiator mesh when its painted. Its part of the kit that doesn't do the model justice in my opinion.... but gives us modellers the chance to tinker a bit.

 

Keep us the good work

 

Mark

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I guess that's the downside of using a Hornby bogie, but then it's a lot cheaper than a Black Beetle (or probably two in a six car unit).

 

 

I'm enjoying reading this thread - I don't think I've ever seen one of these Hastings kits made up before.

 

 

I agree with you regarding the motor bogie comment. I have been building a DC Kits 3R 'Tadpole' using the Black Beetle. It is just adequate for the three-car unit and fine for the low-speed running I require for my branch line use but probably a bit slow for a full Hastings unit in main line use (ie, for a continuous circuit!). Lots of room for sound decoders and speakers and dummy engines with the Black Beetle though!

 

Ian, I like what you have done for your Hastings unit so far. I left the grille as is on my Tadpole but you have got me thinking that maybe I should modify it a bit before I put the final coats of paint on. I'm still working out the best way to do all the roof conduits.

 

It's good to watch other people do things so you can avoid any pitfalls yourself!! Keep up the inspirational work and photos, Ian. Thanks for continuing to post them. cool.gif

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Guest Phil

Excellent Hastings nostalgia going on in this thread - hellfire !!!

 

As one person said, the powercars were somewhat lively from my recollection.

 

Years ago I went to do the Uckfield and East Grinstead branches with diesel, then went across from Eridge to Tunbridge Wells for a thrash back to London on a pair of Hastings units. Also did the "Long Thin Drag" railtour which was equally enthralling. Hurtling down from Shap on the return trip from Carlisle was very memorable, as was the comment made by a couple of teenage Leeds spotters who suggested that Southern EMUs were quite rare in Yorkshire !!!

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Hi All,

 

Thanks for the comments. I have done a little bit more to the model, mostly underframe. Modelling has been slow lately as the cricket season is in full swing. Having a son who plays county cricket and being a coach myself doesn't leave a lot of time for railways!! Here are some pics;

 

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DMBS alongside Tadpole DMBS.

 

The underframe components are the DC etches that have been bulked up with the addition of plasticard. Hopefully I will be able to get back to modelling more soon!!

 

Cheers for now, Ian

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  • 3 weeks later...

post-7006-127583997048.jpg

DMBS alongside Tadpole DMBS.

 

Hi Ian,

 

Tadpole looks great.....can you remember what you used to replicate the roof conduit "anchor points". I've tried a number of experimental methods.....fine plasticard but that just breaks when glued, fine wire but that is too round in cross-section, fine brass strip but the thought of manufacturing lots of these has put me off that idea.

 

I have had some sucess with self adhesive copper tape...but am concerned that this will not stand the test of time!!

That's left me at a bit of a stumbling block.

Any info would be appreciated as yours looks the part.

 

Mark

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Hi Mark,

 

Thanks for the comments. The roof conduit anchor points are Southern Pride turnings, P307 SR/Early roof conduit boxes. They really make a difference to the roof on an EMU or DEMU. I must have used hundreds of them on my models!!

 

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The clips for the engine access panel are just plastikard strips superglued on to the wire. The conduit boxes are drilled to take 0.38mm wire. I normally use Gibson 0.33mm wire.

Again thanks for the comments.

 

Cheers for now, Ian

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  • 5 years later...

Hi,

 

The Hastings unit is much in the same state as seen in the posts above. The only difference is that the unit will now be powered by a Replica drive unit. I really must get on with it, maybe after the 7mm stuff I have going on at the moment I will restart it.

 

Cheers for now, Ian.

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Hi Ian,

 

I've been following your other unit build threads but missed this one until today. Excellent work as usual.

Could you tell me what the origin of the brass door hinges are? They look far superior to the comet hinges I use in my coach building.

 

Thanks.

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Hi,

 

The Hastings unit is much in the same state as seen in the posts above. The only difference is that the unit will now be powered by a Replica drive unit. I really must get on with it, maybe after the 7mm stuff I have going on at the moment I will restart it.

 

Cheers for now, Ian.

I for one am looking forward to seeing more!

 

Will a replica chassis fit within the narrow body? With it looking increasingly likely a DC Kits 'Hastings' of my own will be hard to come by, I'm more and more tempted by a 6L scratchbuild of a DMBS at least. Being able to use Replica chassis would lessen the workload, that is if the 6L underframes are truly standard Mk 1 underframes? Hopefully postie will have some drawings for me soon

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Hi,

 

Taz, I think the hinges are DC Kits ones from the kit. I do hinges differently now with plastikard in the door gaps. The Chassis fits in wtih no problems, this one being a cut down 57' example. The underframes in the kit are narrower than the standard DC kits version. I am not too sure if they are different in real life. I can't believe I started this topic nearly six years ago!! I originally got the kit from the Doncaster show in 2001, after four months in the Falkland Islands. How time flies. I will post some pictures when the sun comes out in Lincolnshire.

 

Cheers for now, Ian.

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