DCB Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 I am thinking of ways to make the Hornby King pull a train. Nothing stupid, Just 14 coaches or 9 up a 1 in 36, like the old Tender drive one used to do. Plan A stuff the boiler with Lead. Plan Ai Take the chip and motor out to add more lead. Plan Aii Put a big ugly motor in the tender. Put Flywheel in tender, bit like Dyna Drive but with a torque limiting clutch from a £5 toy loco to stop the gearbox stripping when I ram the buffers at full speed. Plan Aiii Fit torque tube to stop the motor twisting tne tender one way and the loco the other and use the smallest possible driveshaft to hide it down among the draws gear, possibly inside a tender drawbar. Everyone Dapol included seem to use a huge plastic driveshaft between loco and tender yet quite a few 00 diesels have very slim plastic cardan shafts. I dont really want go re invent the wheel (Though Formula one cars would look daft with cart wheels with wooden hubs and iron tyres so the idea has some merit) So has anyone else done this successfuly. Or has anyone tried and failed and could add some suggestions (other than don't do it)? Any suggestions as to where can I get a contrate reduction gearbox as opposed to a worm drive box, as I want to add an ability to coast and or use reverse power to stop. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 You'd get much the same effect if all your stock had steel pin-point axles running in brass bearings -- and you weren't trying to drag it through set-track curves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 Traction tyres, Bullfrog Snot, Pliobond? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 If you want to do your 9 coach up a 1 in 36 by weight in the loco and without traction tyres, it will need a minimum 500g on the coupled wheels balanced as near as possible to the centre of the coupled wheelbase; bogie, tender and stock all free rolling (the standard for which is that they roll away from rest when placed on a 1 in 100). The Hornby tenders with wiper pick ups are hopelessly draggy btw, best to remove the wipers as they are not required. I increase loco weight routinely on my Hornby and Bachmann models to obtain the desired traction by removing the mazak ballast, and packing in lead, and it works very well. My 8Ps are made up to 550g on the coupled wheels, no wear issues after ten years in this form, provided lubrication of the crankpins is regularly attended to. (Side benefit, the business of hammering lumps of lead into precise body filling shape is a deeply satisfying therapy.) Alternative scheme, the return of magnahesion. Richard Johnson of DCC supplies has a kit of small neo magnets for the loco underside and an undertrack iron strip. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 ....a torque limiting clutch from a £5 toy loco ... I'm intrigued. Where can we obtain this clutch? I'm open to alternative sources as Brimalm don't seem to be producing DynaDrive clutches anymore. .... where can I get a contrate reduction gearbox as opposed to a worm drive box, as I want to add an ability to coast and or use reverse power to stop. You need to build your own. Contrates and pinions are available from Ultrascale (2.9:1 ratio). Bevel gears are available from Gizmondo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 Just trying to achieve Hornby Dublo Castle or Triang Brittannia performance (See the Brit versus Tornado on my YouTube account DavidCBroad. I'm intrigued. Where can we obtain this clutch? I'm open to alternative sources as Brimalm don't seem to be producing DynaDrive clutches anymore. The clutch is part of a cheap toy and simply slips as in jumps with a clicking sound if the loco wheels jam. The wheels still slip if overloaded but the motor does not stall. I feel this would solve 90% of the dyna drive problems where in the event of a crash the energy from a massive flywheel has nowhere to go except to strip contrate pinions. I am on Holiday in Devon and the only photo I have of the cheap and nasty donor loco is attached. It is an 0-8-0 T it cost £5.99 and it came with an oval of plastic track. some wagons and a very nice plastic case which I cut up and used for making a tender body among other things. Has anyone use a 1mm or smaller 00 driveshaft Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 ....It is an 0-8-0 T it cost £5.99.... Look vaguely German outline. Might be based on either the Br.80 or 81 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 You need to build your own. Contrates and pinions are available from Ultrascale (2.9:1 ratio). Bevel gears are available from Gizmondo. That should be Ultrascale and gizmozone.com Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 That should be Ultrascale and gizmozone.com Whatever. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 The 'Adavoyle' layout tender locos, many built in the 70's and AFAIK, still going strong, use tender drive with the shaft made from thin steel piano wire. There was a series of articles in the Railway Modeller at the time which, by today's standards, might seem a bit crude - but they WORK.. And by that I mean both the drive system and the locos in operation on the layout. I have the content of the articles to hand if required. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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