Detailing both ends and still pulling wagons/carriages?

[faa77]

Regarding Bachmann, Hornby and Heljan classes 26, 31, 33, 37 and 47:

 

Is it possible to apply the detailing pack to both ends, whilst still being able to pull wagons/double-head locos? I heard from a few people its not possible, but I swear I have seen a few videos on youtube where it has been achieved. Do you have to make a custom coupling which extrudes far-enough from the loco to prevent the wagon from displacing the detailing?

[Alister_G]

The usual method is to replace the manufacturer's coupling with a simple wire loop between the buffers, to which the normal hook coupling on your rolling stock can connect.

 

Al

[Paul W]

Al is right, the easiest type of coupling fitted to a loco whilst being able to have all of the buffer beam detail in situ is the bar/hoop type.

 

I use this exclusively on my exhibition loco's but there are draw backs. Firstly if you do a lot of shunting or pushing of stock then buffer locking can occur if you are running on 1st or 2nd radius curves. This can lead to derailment of stock.

 

Secondly, you can't couple 2 loco's together and double head quickly as you need to put an additional piece between the couplings to do this.

 

Other than that it works well for me and you just leave all you stock alone and don't need to convert any of them, which is quite cost effective.

 

Paul

[Dunsignalling]

If you use Kadees (but not the NEM plug in types) they can be mounted on the main frame of the loco along with a full array of pipes and cables. 30-Series or 140-Series in 252 boxes are the couplers of choice.

 

It's fairly easy on Bachmann Class 25s, Heljan Hymeks/33s and Dapol 22s. However, you do need to tweak the "angle of dangle" of some of the detail parts to allow for the swing of the couplers.

 

I've also performed the trick on a pair of Bachmann Warships but that's definitely not for the faint-hearted and I've been putting off tackling any more for several years!  

 

John

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

This is where the lack of a RTR autocoupler specifically designed for 4mm to mount correctly in the bufferbeam really shows up in my opinion. The Kadee can be body mounted in this way by DIY, and straightening the dropper slightly maintains the magnetic uncoupling action. The advantage is that the coupler head swing is then happening where the detail is close in to the bufferbeam, so there is no fouling to worry about. Body mounting works on a class 66 so vehicle length is no problem, and in the case of this prototype enables the airdam to be fitted along with the hoses.