Isambard Kingdom Brunel Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 I have a couple of Dapol/Hornby 14xx, I am converting them to P4. I have detailing kits which improve chimney, Safety Valve, Smokebox door and in the case of 14xx ATC boxes, but, I would like to see daylight under the boiler. The chassis is a solid block which slots up into the boiler, Does anyone think I may have a problem if I drill out the gap under the boilerand then file it to shape. I can add extra weight in the smokebox to counter that lost, and I plan to add more weight in the bunker. So Gentleman, what do you think? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Presumably, Hornby or Dapol changed the original Airfix design? I have an old Airfix chassis sitting here and the front axle is driven with plastic parts of the drive train going through the space under the boiler. This is immediately below the solid weight block that sits inside the boiler and smokebox. The centre axle is also a very sloppy fit in the chassis. To be honest, I wouldn't even think about converting this chassis to P4 or anything else, but the Dapol/Hornby version may be better. The more usual approach is to use the High Level chassis. Here's one I prepared earlier and there are a few others on the old RMweb site (some links in that blog entry). You may also find this site useful if you are doing detailing work on the body. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isambard Kingdom Brunel Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 Thanks Nick, The newer Dapol/Hornby chassis is indeed different to the old Airfix one, I had one of those originally and have binned it, The Hornby one drives the rear driver and converts nicely with the Ultrascale Wheels. I have the Mainly Trains detailing kit, which I have had to butcher to remove the ATC Components. The washout plugs, lance cock, tank fillers and vents, did you scratch build those? I am building 5816, in the late 30's as she appeared at Llanfyllin, I also need 5806 for post war and 4815 for a spell prewar and I also think that may be used for the Oswestry - Gobowen Autotrain which did trips to LLanfyllin. The Top Feed has gone, replacement cab hand rails have beeen fitted and the main detailing parts fitted. I need to get sprung buffers and fit them and the Dingham coupling system. To get back to my original question. I wanted a bit of daylight between the splasher and the tank. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Hi Terry, Glad to hear the Hornby chassis is improved. So, if it is just a solid block, I doubt if there would be any harm in drilling it out and filing. On mine, the lance cock is, IIRC, a small handrail knob and a bit of wire soldered together and filed down to an approximate shape. The tank vents were turned from 2mm brass rod. The washout plugs are brass tubing with a short piece of square section brass soldered inside. The tank fillers are white metal castings, though I cannot remember where they came from. I used Gibson sprung buffers. Good luck with yours. Remember to show us how you get on with them. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
King William Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 I have done this on my Dapol chassis,but instad of filing the shape of the underside of the boiler I drilled and filed straight through the metal block to create a rectangular slot. I then shaped some plastic sheet to create the curve of the bottom of the boiler and stuck it to the metal block at the top of the slot . I t would be easier with a section cut from a tube of the correct diameter. I did this in conjunction with converting to Romfords in OO,which was fairly straightforward. I hope this helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isambard Kingdom Brunel Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 I have done this on my Dapol chassis,but instad of filing the shape of the underside of the boiler I drilled and filed straight through the metal block to create a rectangular slot. I then shaped some plastic sheet to create the curve of the bottom of the boiler and stuck it to the metal block at the top of the slot . I t would be easier with a section cut from a tube of the correct diameter. I did this in conjunction with converting to Romfords in OO,which was fairly straightforward. I hope this helps. Thanks for your suggestion, nice to know I am not alone in my "madness" Terry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Here's one I prepared earlier and there are a few others on the old RMweb site (some links in that blog entry). You may also find this site useful if you are doing detailing work on the body. Nick - these are great and I've bookmarked them for when I start swearing at mine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 Hi Terry, I too have modified the the 14xx chassis to allow daylight under the boiler, as described by King William. It was only meant to be a quick conversion but to be honest I think you would be better off with an etched job from Comet or High level and this is the route I took in the end. The Comet option with rocking inside frames has worked out really well for me and I now have two 14xx with this spec. Of course the High Level kit is much more detailed and as you model in P4 it might be the way to go for you. Should you go ahead with the Hornby / Dapol mod. then it is most important to replace the weight of the material you remove over the driving wheels or the chassis will sit up and beg when you apply power. Cheers and good luck, Geoff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.