Bachmann 00 ROD, 30XX, 04 Body fixing.

[DCB]

I was trying to add weight to a friend's 00 gauge Bachmann ROD 2-8-0 and I couldn't see how the body comes off.

Does anyone have a diagram or pointers to a web site as he has lost the packaging and instructions and its far from obvious which screws have to be removed.  Hoping to have another go this evening (Sun 16th July) Thanks in advance

[DCB]

Sorted. It was just stuck

  Big lump of lead added, still feeble.  \have to stay on shed while the Wrenn 8Fs run the freights

[Sam Moss]

Sorted. It was just stuck

  Big lump of lead added, still feeble.  \have to stay on shed while the Wrenn 8Fs run the freights

 

I made a plasticard bung for the boiler on mine and mounted it just forward of the motor and then filled the boiler full of liquid lead via the chimney. I then capped the chimney using a bit of tissue soaked in super glue finished off with a blob of black paint. Weighed a ton and increased haulage capacity no end.

Edited July 20, 2017 by Sam Moss

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

And then the 'full on' technique: separate the boiler from the cast footplate, unscrew and remove the cast ballast inside the boiler and fill the resulting void with solid lead to whatever is the required weight for traction. An advantage of removal of the cast ballast is that the upweighted loco will be balanced in the centre of the coupled wheelbase which is optimal for traction.

 

It is a 7F rated loco, so on my ballasting system it is made up to 50g less than 8F classes (bearing on the driven wheelbase), 400g rather than 450g. But if looking to max it out and not concerned for centre of balance I should think an all up weight of 600g is possible.

[johnb]

A word of warning. If using liquid lead DO NOT flood it with PVA glue to hold it in place! There is a slow reaction between the lead and the PVA which results in expansion of the mix. This will split anything that tightly confines it, be it a plastic or metal body. Seen an 'O' gauge brass loco ruined by this reaction.

John