Reluctant Replica B1

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Evening,

 

My dad has a Replica B1 which, until recently has always been a reasonable runner, although it's never been run a huge amount. It was stored for a few years in its box, but has recently been running a bit again, until it suddenly stopped. I've been trying to find out what the problem is with limited success: I can get it to run, if the controller set to maximum and I push the wheels to get them turning first although it seems to be slower that 'full speed'. It won't start on its own, even at full power (either on track, a rolling road or just holding wires to the appropriate points on the chassis/wiring with the wheels in mid-air).

Removing the body reveals it to be a split-chassis, and all wires, pickups, etc are in good order, as are the motor brushes. Electrical checks confirm that the current can reach the brushes from the wheels. Turning the wheels by hand, the amount of resistance feels about what I'd expect given I'm turning the motor back through the gear train.

When applying the power from stationary, the motor won't start but will occasionally produce a flash inside, between the brushes (presumably from the commutator) but there is no short circuit (controller doesn't trip). It's a similar flash to that seen when the motor is running. My thoughts were that the flashing over isn't the problem as it's not something I've had trouble with on any of my old, higher mileage Hornby and Lima pancakes.
I've not removed the motor from the chassis yet (although I've tried, and had it loose but not out) as it looks like I'd have to split the chassis, and I'd be worried about wheel quartering, and the motion getting out of sync, etc.
I've searched the forum with no success - has anyone had similar, or have any idea what might be wrong?

 

Thanks,

Mark

[Andrew F]

It does sound like a motor fault. Replica Railways still exists and sells spares for the B1. I wouldn't worry too much about dismantling the chassis if you're careful, you shouldn't disturb the quartering. I re-built one years ago but can't remember if removing the cylinder blocks was difficult or not. 

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Motor not self starting and runs at reduced speed, probably one winding gone open circuit.

 

It sounds like you have got away with it so far, but best not to turn the motor via the wheels, whether on track or by hand as this can lead to the traction tyred wheelset shifting out of quarter or a gear breaking.

 

There's no need for anything like complete dismantling to replace the motor. Remove the keeper plate, drop out the driving wheels to clear the split chassis. (If you want the wheelsets and rods off the job, then the cylinders are glued on with something like Evostick and there's a small screw holding the motion brackets on - I think, this is now distant memory.) Then separate the chassis halves to release the motor and install a replacement. It all looks a mess, but 'gently and patiently' gets it reassembled.

[DCB]

The Replica had a Pod motor if i remember correctly. They never were much good but are easy to change.  Needing a push start was quite normal with Mainline and Replica split chassis mechanisms.  Bachmann Chassis is the usual upgrade but our  Bachmann B1 doesn't run very nicely either.  Pushing a de motored B1 with a Hornby B17 Tender is also a possibility.

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Thanks all for the replies, much appreciated. I see Replica have the motors for the princely sum of £6.50, so I'll order a replacement to fit.

 

Thanks again,

Mark