Controller for powering o gauge loco

[Guest Saltburn]

Hi with being new to o gauge, do I need a certain controller or will my gaugemaster combi be sufficient to power my new Dapol Jinty. Also what wire should I use to power my o gauge track.

[Simond]

Sam

 

Your Gaugemaster combo has an output of 1.1Amps and will be fine for any modern O gauge tank, and most tender, locos. Some of the Heljan diesels are reportedly a bit hungry, but unless you’re double heading 15 bogie coaches, I wouldn’t worry. If you do “overload” the controller, it will simply shut down, with no damage to it, or the loco.

 

For wire, almost any multi-strand wire will do, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5m-16-0-2mm-Equipment-Wire-11-Colours-20AWG-1kV-3A-Stranded-Hook-Up-WP-040000-/230975558752 for example, or even stranded bell or loudspeaker wire form one of the DIY sheds, however, if you buy a roll of red and a roll of black, it’ll probably be rather cheaper by the metre at the likes of RS, Rapid or Farnell. It doesn’t go off, and it doesn’t eat anything other than storage space!

 

For typical indoor layouts with a couple of smallish locos, it’s really not critical. It matters with higher loads, and longer distances, such as on a garden line.

 

Best

Simon

[Guest Saltburn]

Simon thanks for your advice this has helped me a great deal.

[Erictheviking]

I use a Helmsman controller, can output up to 5A I believe. As I was told when considering it, " Under powered is fine but if someone turns up wanting to run a big Heljan diseasa"l....... ( Absolutely most unlikely) but it is a big beast with a huge heat sink and resets shorts in moments.

[Simond]

Funny how the same questions pop up. There’s a bit more detail in this answer, then again, there was a bit more question!

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/139968-wire-gauge-for-small-depot-layout/&do=findComment&comment=3384138

 

5A controller? Very good. Bit like a Ferrari on the M25, as in nice-to-have, but broadly unnecessary!!!

 

My DCC booster is rated at 5A, I doubt I’ve even got close, except when putting tools down on the tracking the middle of a job...

 

Best

Simon

[Hal Nail]

Funny how the same questions pop up. There’s a bit more detail in this answer, then again, there was a bit more question!

 

 

Simon,

 

You mention using non-sound decoders as a stop gap in the other reply - presumably these can be cascaded down if upgrading a fleet to DCC over a period of time?

 

Ian

Edited December 5, 2018 by Hal Nail

[chaz]

Can I suggest Rapid Electronics as a source of wire (in 50 metre reels), switches, LEDs, plugs and sockets etc etc. You will have to spend a bit to get to their free postage but if you are planning a layout your needs will soon mount up. just Google it!

 

Chaz

[Simond]

Simon,

 

You mention using non-sound decoders as a stop gap in the other reply - presumably these can be cascaded down if upgrading a fleet to DCC over a period of time?

 

Ian

Ian

 

In principle, yes. I still have a few of my earlier locos with non sound decoders, and will replace them in due course.

 

It’s sometimes a bit of a hassle - if possible, using plug-in decoders simplified things, but typically the speakers are not included in the 8-pin plug.

 

I prefer the 21-pin version, there is an adaptor-platine available from ESU - bit bigger but these do have two mounting holes which is an advantage - you can screw them to the chassis.

 

You can see some pictures on my pd thread & on the WT “What’s on my workbench” thread

 

http://westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/whats-on-your-workbench.3804/page-68#post-159941

 

ATB

Simon

Edited December 5, 2018 by Simond

[hartleymartin]

I've been using a standard Hornby controller for years with O-gauge locomotives. I only use small 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 locomotives and a few wagons.

[doilum]

ECM compspeed was always enough on my old 70' roundy round. Locos had mashima 1833 and trains were 30 wagons plus.